calling all auto to 5-speed conv. guys

[IRACEMYCOPCAR]

first and foremost YES I SEARCHED!!!!!!

ok my auto has 168k on it and i think its starting to slip so i dont think its gonna last too much longer. i dont have the $$$ to buy a built auto., stall,cooler, yada yada....... my car is a 91 with abs. i know someone that has an 87 parts car that has everything i need for the conversion, however talking to the person that has the car and will be helping me with the swap he said something about maybe needing a plate welded on the firewall for bracing the clutch linkage, through my search i havent been able to find anyone mention this, does anyone know anything about it??? he said something about the mkiv needs it and he thinks the mkiii needs it done also???. my next question is does anyone have a site that explains EXACTY how to do the wiring for the abs/cruise/back up lamps??? as this would be my biggest setback. i alreaady have the links to the other sites that explain the mechanical parts but thats the easy part and i can figure out most of that by myself its just getting the electrical to work, will it work considering the tranny ill be getting is out of an 87???

thanks for the help guys!!!

[IRACEMYCOPCAR]

anyone?

[HamsMKIV]

I just completed my 5 speed swap 2 weeks ago. If you have a complete 5 speed parts car you will have everything you need to perform the swap. Here's what you will need:

5 speed.
Flywheel and bolts off of the 5 speed car
lower "wing" tranny mounts that bolt to engine (they are different)
Inspection cover between tranny and engine
Driveshaft from 5speed
Pedal Assemblies
Master Cylinder

The whole swap is really easy. I've never tackled anything like this before and did it in 3 days. I could have done it faster but I was waiting on my clutch assembly so... The only custom work you will have to do is in the tranny tunnel. You MIGHT have to open up the hole for the shifter tower. I opened mine up a little and found out later that I didnt have to. I think it depends on the year model. All the holes are drilled for you to install the pedal assemblies and the master cylinder. One thing I would also recommend is that you have a braided stainless hose made to run from the master to the slave cylinder. The hard line is really hard to get out of the car because it runs underneath other hard brake lines and you wont be able to get it out. You could buy all 3 pieces from Toyota for about $65 or make a new braided stainless hose for about $35.

On to the Wiring:

As for bypassing the neutral safety switch... haha... I feel bad for the many people who have paid someone to bypass this..... I can give you a REALLY easy tip around this.... There's three harness connectors on the Auto... look for the one that is round and has three wires running in it, a BLACK wire, a WHITE wire, and a BLUE wire.... Cut that plug off the tranny with some wire to spare.... Take the WHITE and the BLACK wire and splice them together... Plug that connector into the harness side in the car.... Your ECT ECU will now think your car is in park all the time and it will start right up. Too easy.

You can then wire the clutch switch in line to the ignition wire that runs to the starter relay. It's a white wire coming off the ignition switch. You will only need to do this if you want to have a clutch safety switch, as it isn't necessary. Too easy there too.

The reverse lights I haven't gotten around to hooking up yet.... I will tell you that the harnesses are different between the auto and manual, but the wire colors (RED WIRE & YELLOW WIRE) are the same. therefore, get the male end of the harness off of the donor car and then splice into the male end of your car and you'll be in business. One of the 3 round plugs on the car side have the red and yellow wires to splice into. The manual reverse light harness is a TWO plug harness with a RED wire and a YELLOW wire.

The last one that you need to be concerned over is the Speed Sensor. It's a Rectangular plugged harness with 4 or 6 wires I forget. Anyways, they are identical between the manual and auto, so the manual harness will plug right in. This will enable your cruise control to work. The other wire you have to worry about for cruise to enable is the switch on the top of the clutch pedal itself. It opens the cruise circuit and disables cruise when you press the clutch in... I never hooked mine up because I have an aftermarket wheel and pulled my cruise module out. I will investigate further and get you an answer on that too.

That's really about it. Everything aside from the possible cutting is a bolt on afair....

Oh yeah, one thing I had to do... The hole in the back of the crank for the pilot bearing seemed to be a little to small for the pilot bearing to go all the way in... I used my dremel and sanded it open a tad bit to make a snug fit. That pilot bearing should be fully seated into the back of the crank if it's installed properly. You'll see what I mean when you get up in there.

That should be about it.... PM me if you have any questions or if I missed anything. You'll honestly be suprised at how easy it is.

Good Luck

- Chris

[HamsMKIV]

BTW,

Really Clean car... We should meet up sometime, you're pretty close to me.

- Chris

[JG_XSBOOST]

Nice explination Chris. I havent gotten around to updating my website for the wiring. I did the same thing with the neutral start switch. I havent hooked up the reverse lights either. The only thing I didnt see you answer directly is the welding stuff. All the parts bolt on directly other than the small amount of trimming for the stick that Chris mentioned. The clutch hoses mount to holes already there.

PS We'll have to get together too. Im down here in Dothan and I venture up to Atlanta quite often. Im gonna get up there soon for some tuning.

Good luck,
Jeff G

[IRACEMYCOPCAR]

thanks chris!!!! great explanation, i wont be needing the neutral safety switch either since i plan on having a remote start system installed. do you know about the ABS????i like your car too nice 2 tone and its one of the only ones ive seen with the tan interior, i mostly see burgandy and blue lol. im working on getting a meet together here in sc sometime probably near the end of summer, maybe you can come up for that!!!

[HamsMKIV]

Let me look again at the wiring schematics but I dont forsee the swap affecting your ABS... The clutch hydraulics are totally seperate from the rest of the system but I dont know if the tranny sends any signal to the ABS ECU or not. I'll get back to you on that one...

- Chris

[lkychrmz79]

so is there welding involved or do the parts bolt right on......?

[Kruso]

The part about the welding....you dont have to get that done. The only reason one would do that is to keep the hydrolic line going to the clutch slave cylinder secured to the body of the car which could be done in numerous ways. I did mine and the lines are held togather by a strong zip tie.

Kruso

[HamsMKIV]

You know, that piece of metal that secures the line was actually on my auto so I didnt have to worry about that.

Chris

[mark52cents]

I just found an 87 turbo auto for $1000. It is beautiful. Dark navy no rust 1 ding perfect interior good brakes and electrical systems but a bhg. I want to go with a jam engine swap and I have my heart set on a 5-spd. I sound like a good deal and I am going to have to decide by tomorrow (I got first dibs tomorrow). What else do I have to consider. What do you guys think? How much time will take me and Hams do you think you could help me out if I got stuck and tell me what to do. Also does the parts car to convert it to a 5-5pd have to be a turbo or can it be an N/A.
I am going crazy a response would make me very happy.
Reply or email me @ maxfour@msn.com P.s. Hams if you would give me your number I would be very grateful.

[Fried Rice]

N/A's use a weaker transmission than turbos but it will bolt right in.

[mark52cents]

no what i ment is can i get all the misc. parts (not tranny) exp: pedles and master cylinder , drive shaft, differential from a n/a or does it have to be a turbo prats caralso what n/a came with a 4.3:1 ls differential.

[HamsMKIV]

The misc. parts that you'll need will work from a N/A. The only thing I don't know about for sure is the lower brackets that bolt the tranny to the motor. Those are the only parts I'm not sure about.

Chris

[Thermactor]

Originally posted by Fried Rice
N/A's use a weaker transmission than turbos but it will bolt right in. 90 percent of the mkiii turbos out there will never hit the operational power limit of the W58.

[Carl]

Whats up guys.
CAN YOU GUYS PLEASE HELP ME!
I just did a conversion from auto to 5speed, everything works good, but there is some kind of strange noise when the car is in neutrall but when the the clutch is engaged the noise is gone.
To describe the noise is like something loose spining inside of tranny housing, the car drives fine just first gear is very shaky

I appreciate your help
(newbie)
Carl

[HamsMKIV]

Carl,
I know the noise you're describing. It almost sounds like a whirling noise right? That sound is often cause by a damaged pilot bearing. It's possible you damaged it on the installation process. Pretty easy to do considering how small that bearing is. I doubt the thrust bearing would be damaged because it's a pretty beefy bearing... I am assuming of course that you used new bearings on the installation process. But anyway, that really sucks after just completing the installation.

Let me know if there's anything else I can do for you.

- Chris

[Carl]

Hey Chris you just saved me alot of headaches and a trip to a tranny shop. I did replace the pilot bearing when installing the flywheel, but you might be right i must have damaged it, bc i was tapping it with a hammer and a socket, but on the other thought it spun pretty good though after the instalation.(Ill use the tool next time.
Thank you for pointing that out, I'm on it.
Oh btw is thrust bearing inside of the tranny?
Great writeup Chris.
Later.

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by Carl
Hey Chris you just saved me alot of headaches and a trip to a tranny shop. I did replace the pilot bearing when installing the flywheel, but you might be right i must have damaged it, bc i was tapping it with a hammer and a socket, but on the other thought it spun pretty good though after the instalation.(Ill use the tool next time.
Thank you for pointing that out, I'm on it.
Oh btw is thrust bearing inside of the tranny?
Great writeup Chris.
Later.

Carl,
The thrust bearing is the big bearing that's attached to the pressure plate. That one is pretty hard to damage. In the future, if you have a problem with installing the pilot bearing, I would take fine sandpaper and just clean up the surface where the pilot bearing installs. Mine had a lot of stuff in there because it was previously an auto like yours, and never had a pilot bearing in there before. I had to clean it up to get my bearing to seat properly. If you were banging on it with a socket/hammer, it's quite possible it was damaged. Good thing is that it's a cheap fix. Bad thing is that it's labor intensive :(

Good luck bro.

- Chris

[Carl]

Chris, I have a couple of Qs for you.
Do you remember when you took off the auto flywheel, there were 2 washers that went behind it. (between the crank and the auto flywheel. Did you take them off or leave them on?
Also what do you suggest i take the pilot bearing off with?
The noise is comming from the clutch and housing area for sure, and its making a tapping sound bad. The fork has a lil travel about 1 inch toward the trannny.
Thats about it and I am in the process of tearing it down again for a 3rd time
Later

[I'm A Troll]

I would be worried about a Flywheel bolt backing itself out, it sounds exactly how u describd. And I also Pounded on my pilot bearing and I haven't had a problem with it.

Good Luck

[Carl]

Well guys now i have another problem-removing the p/bearing I put in the first time. Do you guys have any suggestions how to get it out.
I've bee all over the town looking for the right puller, but no one carries them.
I mentioned about the 2 spacers that go behind the auto flywheel, do you guys know if they stay or go?
Could you guys help please.
Thanks

[pmpaluda]

I just removed the tranny (and the engine the week prior)... and don't have a clue as to the "2 spacers" question? Got any pic's...

I still have the tranny, flywheel, and TC in the garage. Or were they attached to the engine side? Or is that your question?

A pic would help... I got some freshly (week old) pic's at hand. :)

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by Carl
Chris, I have a couple of Qs for you.
Do you remember when you took off the auto flywheel, there were 2 washers that went behind it. (between the crank and the auto flywheel. Did you take them off or leave them on?
Also what do you suggest i take the pilot bearing off with?
The noise is comming from the clutch and housing area for sure, and its making a tapping sound bad. The fork has a lil travel about 1 inch toward the trannny.
Thats about it and I am in the process of tearing it down again for a 3rd time
Later

Carl,
I did not use the washers that you're talking about. I know exactly what you are referring to. I did not use mine, as no one who has 5 speed cars ever mentioned them. I assumed they are automatic specific for the flex plate. As for removing that bearing... I am really stumped there bro. I used a snap-on right angle pick to pull mine, but I dont know if you can use it or not. You could also try a screwdriver, but I'm sure you'll fook the bearing up if you do it that way.... Of course, the bearing is only like $20 I think... Just a thought :)

Anyway, let us know how it goes.

- Chris

[Carl]

Thanks for reply homie, I already got the new bearing, I dont care for the one thats inside, just dont want to damage everything else.
I think thats what caused that noise what I was describing in earlier posts. I left the spacer on when I bolted the flywheel on.
The spline probly was hitting the crank.
Thanks again
Chris.

[dgblkbelt]

I've got a good R154 master cylinder, clutch, and flywheel... drop me an email if you want any of that stuff cheap

[Carl]

Hey guys, everything is in the car i drove it last night and today, mk3 drives very strong. I dont have a shifter knob and I noticed there is some heat comming from the tranny trought the shifter opening, is that normal?
I also noticed that my clutch fork has a little play in it about 1/2 inch to an inch, any suggestions on that?
Thank you all for helping me with my conversion.

[pmpaluda]

dgblkbelt- wondering if you ever got my email?

[Brammer]

I've just performed the conversion, and my cruise isn't working. The Abs is ok, so I guess the cruise "sees" that the trans is in park. How do I get around that?

Thanks

John
Denmark
1991 turbo 422 Rwhp

[pmpaluda]

There's a sensor that on the dash side of the clutch pedal housing labeled "clutch"... I believe this to be the CC sensor. This needs to be hard wired into the ECU.

As for where... not sure. No one I've emailed has responded and on any of the 5spd. conversion documents it's non existant.

[supra-g]

http://www.geocities.com/jg_xsboost/Tranny_Transplant.html

just wanted to say that this was just the stuff i was looking for
to do the swap, good info on Hams behaf too.
thanks

[Daxter85]

with the 5-spd conversion do u have to do anything with the vehicles onboard computer?

[JustinM]

Thank YOU! I just did a search on wiring up the tranny because the car is getting started tomorrow. Found everything I needed. Actually very similar to my 240sx M/T swap. Thanks again! Justin

[NoODeL1]

How much money would a stock tranny swap cost you in parts?

[pmpaluda]

Parts: Free to $1500 depending on what/where parts you are able to find and if you install or pay labor for someone else to do.

HTH

[gsx97]

hay stuff the hole with grease finde something that will fit tight threw the bearing hole and hit it with a hammer. it will work like a hydrulic pump and spit the bearing out if done right has allways worked for me.

[dirtlord420]

do you really need to cut in to the chassis to make it fit?

[pmpaluda]

do you really need to cut in to the chassis to make it fit?

nope

[pimptrizkit]

How much money would a stock tranny swap cost you in parts?

so far my 5spd swap is costin, 380 for a shipped tranny, 80 for cross brace shift fork and through out bearing, clutch pedle 30, which leaves me with tranny wings and fly wheel and clutch assambly, clutch master & slave $100 new.. ,
and i have priced some clutch kits.. for the amount of power i plan to see, im gona be in the clutch about 300-500 dollars.. 1 peice d/s steel made local 150ish..

so it's safe to say i'll be 1200 into this swap by the time I finish putting it all in,

[HisandhersMKIIIs]

Just wanted to drop my 2 cents in here, my 88 A/T > 5 SPD swap was rather painless and easy because of a few key things:

I swapped out the wiring harness that is on the firewall inside the car. This harness is the biggest differentiating factor for the transmissions for the MKIII's.

The engine harness, obviously. Although, a auto ECU will work with both auto and 5 SPD just fine, but the auto has to have the auto. When you plug it into the 5 SPD it just ignores the extra stuff. Oddly enough my 5 SPD engine harness didn't have the 2 connecters for the Automatic A/C temperature sensors that are on the thermostat housing and I had to wire them myself.

Pilot bearing, Clutch, Flywheel, Inspection cover, Pressure plate, Throwout bearing and all associated washers. New slave cylinder (old one was seized), Used master cylinder and hard line, (though I recommend a new one), Pedal assembly, and Teflon coated Stainless steel clutch hose. Got new support wings for the R154 also, but mostly because I swapped the crossmember and used the late 89 to 92 style motor mounts.

Hard part:

Weaving the master cylinder hard line through the ABS lines!!!!!! Pain in the @$$!

Bleeding the master cylinder, The TSRM is crap on this one! I ended up going to harbor freight tools and getting a vacuum pump and pulling the fluid through it from the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.

Hope this helps and if anyone has any questions just let me know.

[Jason T]

This info is posted to help retro fit abs into a MA70 after you have installed a W58 5spd mine is from a GA70 1GTT this is the box stick postion you need http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/images/gearboxes/Toyota_Supra_5spd.jpg

Machine work is needed to make this happen unless you have a large lathe at home this is a job you will pay/bribe some one to do for you
Sensor ring needs to be spot welded to shaft yoke (auto & manuel are same size) then sensor ring carrier need to down sized to aroun 2/3cm wide this needs to be calculated when making your replacment drive shaft

You need these parts from your auto http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JasonTomlins
keep the loom part to the sensor for a tidy fitting
These parts are removed from here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JasonTomlins/2006_0531Abs0004.jpg
Then you need to make a replacment for the dust sheld to mount sensor like this http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/JasonTomlins/ABSringsensormount.jpg
The air gap between sensor and ring is the key to making work i used the CPS settings and woked first try

You can not test on stands only by road

Code 42
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/engineerrorcodes.html

Abs code 33
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/abs_errorcodes.html

How to fix starter bypass issues with pics http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164464

If ive missed somthing or you need more info ask

PS the 5spd conversion parts list
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125064

[toneloc]

can someone explain a little bit more about the wiring for the manual conversion??

[Jason T]

On to the Wiring:

As for bypassing the neutral safety switch... haha... I feel bad for the many people who have paid someone to bypass this..... I can give you a REALLY easy tip around this.... There's three harness connectors on the Auto... look for the one that is round and has three wires running in it, a BLACK wire, a WHITE wire, and a BLUE wire.... Cut that plug off the tranny with some wire to spare.... Take the WHITE and the BLACK wire and splice them together... Plug that connector into the harness side in the car.... Your ECT ECU will now think your car is in park all the time and it will start right up. Too easy.

You can then wire the clutch switch in line to the ignition wire that runs to the starter relay. It's a white wire coming off the ignition switch. You will only need to do this if you want to have a clutch safety switch, as it isn't necessary. Too easy there too.

The reverse lights I haven't gotten around to hooking up yet.... I will tell you that the harnesses are different between the auto and manual, but the wire colors (RED WIRE & YELLOW WIRE) are the same. therefore, get the male end of the harness off of the donor car and then splice into the male end of your car and you'll be in business. One of the 3 round plugs on the car side have the red and yellow wires to splice into. The manual reverse light harness is a TWO plug harness with a RED wire and a YELLOW wire.

. You'll honestly be suprised at how easy it is.

Good Luck

- Chris

:bigthumb:

[toneloc]

i know that part but what do you do with the revesrse lights and were is it the wire for lights at.??? in the back of the transmission??

[Jason T]

i know that part but what do you do with the revesrse lights and were is it the wire for lights at.??? in the back of the transmission??

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164464

Read the FAQ's its all there IF you find somthing you cant figure out start a thread in the Performance and General Modification Forums

:rockon:

[toneloc]

thanks man

were not worthy, were not worthy :bowdown: :bowdown: (waynes world)

[toneloc]

how many wires come off the r-154(turbo manual transmission). mine has three: on the pass. side there is like a two wire plug, driver side there is like a three wire, and in the back i think its just one big wire. does that sound right??

[toneloc]

anybody??????

[joliroger4]

Anyone know how long braided line you need to replace go from master to slave directly?

[joliroger4]

I didn't see pressure plate bolts on the list. Are you guys scavaging these off parts cars or can you use converter bolts?

[DropZero]

haha i was gonna ask until i seen this thread i recently fried my auto 4 overdrive and revers are Fried lol awsome failure so now i dont have alot fo money floating around for anoter auto so i am conisdering a 5spd if someone can pm me the complete wireing, parts, and a little how to i would be in heaven and then i can drive fast again lol

[IRACEMYCOPCAR]

your best bet is to find a donor parts car, you would need pedal assembly,clutch master and slave cyl+lines,tranny,flywheel,clutch i think crossmenber and maybe driveshaft? honestly you can pick up a used tranny for less than $500, i had over $1600 in my swap when all was said and done and that was a hookup from a friend ( i used a spec stage 3 clutch) all the info you seek is on here somewhere just start reading!!

[Nocheez]

5 years and this thread is still helping people.

Does anyone have a pic of the hard line routing? I'm tearing my hair out over here.

edit: problem solved. Ordered a braided line off of Driftmotion for $50 and saved some follicles.

[Nocheez]

For those of you who want to get cruise control working easily, here's how to do it:

Go to the cruise control box (located under the dash above the clutch pedal) and cut the black/white striped wire. Wire each half to a terminal on the switch at the top of the clutch pedal. Voila, you now have cruise control that cuts out when you press the clutch pedal.

[DropZero]

heres a question for u tranny nuts lol i need to get one more bolt out i left the motor in so yeah one bolt just above the starter and i cant get to it any ideas of how u guys did it pm me im working on it tomrow with a hot chick lol dont ask but trust me lol i got alot of work ahead of me pm me soooooon

Gary.

[Nocheez]

Jack the motor up a bit in the front, drop the rear mount of the transmission (but support it!). The back of the motor will tip downwards making it easy to get at those bolts with a swivel and some extensions.

[SupraMan1990]

I've got one for you guys. I have a 5spd engine harness and a 5spd ECU, only thing left auto in my car is the dash wiring. What needs to be done? I don't have ABS, only thing I am really looking at making work correctly is the cruise.

[na-tsupraking]

your best bet is to find a donor parts car, you would need pedal assembly,clutch master and slave cyl+lines,tranny,flywheel,clutch i think crossmenber and maybe driveshaft? honestly you can pick up a used tranny for less than $500, i had over $1600 in my swap when all was said and done and that was a hookup from a friend ( i used a spec stage 3 clutch) all the info you seek is on here somewhere just start reading!!

$1600 total for an R154? How much do you think a basic W58 swap would cost me? Using all oem parts of course. Mines is an 89 n/a.

[Moy]

it depends on how much you spend on the parts, this link is a little bit old, but a guy over on SM (87M-GTE) has/had a W58 and associated parts. I believe he might still have the parts.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/881913557.html

[SupraMan1990]

Any answer to my question?

[na-tsupraking]

it depends on how much you spend on the parts, this link is a little bit old, but a guy over on SM (87M-GTE) has/had a W58 and associated parts. I believe he might still have the parts.

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/881913557.html

that seems like a decent deal but I would still need the hardlines, clutch pedal assembly, master cylinder, would I also need a 5-speed ecu? what about LSD?

Feel free to add to my list guys, I know I'm missing quite allot.

[te31guy]

Hello

Im looking to do my on conversion I just don’t know where the best place would be to get the parts and im also wondering if it would be cheaper to get a parts car

[supraman_2fst4u]

hey i am kinda new to this whole forum, but anyway i have an 87 supra automatic and i have only really modified the exterior which in my mind is looking amazing but now this year i am thinking about upgrading on the performance of my car. i was wondering if it would be worth it to put in a new manual tranny and if so what would be the best?

[IRACEMYCOPCAR]

hey i am kinda new to this whole forum, but anyway i have an 87 supra automatic and i have only really modified the exterior which in my mind is looking amazing but now this year i am thinking about upgrading on the performance of my car. i was wondering if it would be worth it to put in a new manual tranny and if so what would be the best?

Honestly knowing what i know now i wouldn't have converted to a manual, sure its more fun to daily drive but unless you have the cash to do a 6-speed swap its a waste of time, the W-58 is a $hitty tranny, and so is the R154, its just not AS $hitty.
People think the R154 is a strong tranny but its not much better than a W58 IMO.

[supraman_2fst4u]

okay thanks for the reply :) i havent touched the tranny yet. i was just wondering if it would be worth it i mean i think I would have a lil more fun with my car if it was a standard. Im just curious how much you think it would cost for a 6 speed tranny swap??

[Nocheez]

Not even close to worth it for a 6 speed tranny. It'll cost more than your car is worth.

What are your power goals? What kind of driving do you do? If not more than 300 horsepower you'll be fine with just a transmission cooler and possibly shimming your accumulators. If you want more, we need to know what you want from your car before we can tell you how to go about it.

[ahuynh12]

this help'd alot..thanks

[Bmettie]

I figured it out..........

To make the cruise control work properly first you must wire your park/neutral switch wires to your clutch safety start switch. I wired mine with an external switch just in case i need to use the starter to move the car (into trailer, in-out of garage). Now your cruise will work when the clutch pedal isn't FULLY depressed. So if your "Cruise controlling" and step on the clutch pedal only HALF way the motor will rev up try to maintain speed because your not hitting the FULLY depressed switch yet. Even if you cut into the black/white wire coming out of the cruise computer and wire each half to the clutch pedal switch on top of the pedal, both clutch pedal switches need to be closed for that circuit to be complete thus leaving you with the same problem of the motor rev'ing up before the pedal is fully depressed.

To solve this problem you need to wire up the switch located at the front/top of the clutch pedal. Wiring this switch will tell the cruise control computer that the clutch is about to be depressed and it will cancel the cruise control. To do this you will need to find the cruise control computer which is located directly above the clutch pedal (How convenient). Unplug the harness and two hold downs so you can work on it.
Find the solid black wire, cut it and connect the plug side of the wire to one terminal of the switch at the top of the pedal. Now wire the other terminal of the switch to ground.

AbbraCaDabra now you cruise will cancel as soon as you lay your foot on the clutch pedal.

The only sacrifice....... the solid black wire in the cruise control circuit is for the parking brake cancel function so if your "cruise controlling" and lift on the parking brake it will not cancel, but I figured if I ever need to use the parking brake while "cruise controlling" I would have tried the foot brake and clutch pedal first which would have canceled the cruise control anyway. This is why if all you do is tap into the solid black wire and wire it to the switch and the switch to ground, the switch will back feed into the parking brake light circuit and your brake light in the dash will pop on every time you step on the clutch pedal. If you can deal with that or wire in a diode after the splice then you don't have to lose the parking brake cancel function but I am going to go without that function.

I hope this helps all of you without working cruise control after the swap. I certainly love the fact that I can have all the "Luxury" features in a fast fun car!!

[tj21]

if you find a donor car for the swap cant you just take the harness off that and hook it up instead of all the splicing? or am i confused?
-Trevor.

[Bmettie]

if you find a donor car for the swap cant you just take the harness off that and hook it up instead of all the splicing? or am i confused?
-Trevor.

Yea but you'll have to pull the dash to do that!!

[Moy]

Wow. Old thread. To those of you with an 87-92 Supra, dont even BOTHER considering going with the V160 6 speed transmission. It would cost WAYYYYY too much to make it worth it