Racing/modding your MK3 for newbies at the drag strip

[Mike 92LX]

I am getting slammed with PMs about the turbo thread so here goes some answers.



If you want to go fast at the drag strip read on. This doesn’t apply to everyone and if you don’t agree that doesn’t mean you or I are wrong.

First of all make a realistic goal for your car and budget. Realize a MK3 is not an ideal car to drag race with and it was not designed for that use. But you can make it a good performer at the strip while retaining the great characteristics the car has(ie quiet,comfortable,great cruising GT). If you choice to drag race that doesn’t mean you are wrong. Just be prepared for the car’s shortcomings to present themselves.
For a track only car-using a MK3 is not ideal and there are much better choices. Make sure whatever your goals are that your fuel and driveline needs are in line with your horsepower goals as well.

Make sure your car is up the task of going fast. If you have mechanical problems-fix them. Things like bad valve seals,lack of tune up,excessive blowby,oil consumption,slipping clutches and coolant/oil leaks are a recipe for more problems. Fix them!!!

Learn how to drive. If you can’t get a low to mid 15 sec ET out of a turbo stick MK3 regardless of year and location(high elevations will be slower) its either you or the car. The car is getting old-it may need some things. Address them.

Shortblock. If you do a leakdown test or have determined its time for a rebuild spend the money and do it right. Make a realistic goal and address the shortcomings of the design when it comes time to build up. Machine work and engine shops are like body and paint. No deals here. You get what you pay for. Get your motor done by someone who does high performance stuff and get references. The fast people will know the best local people for you to go to. A stock replacement place will not yield the best results. This is why some cars run better than others with the same combo.

Cylinder head-min requirement. A 3 angle valve job,test to see if head is within specs and new valve seals regardless if the old ones look okay. If you have the money and are looking to go really fast porting and polishing is well worth it. Make sure the heads are flowed before and after. Having cousin Vinny do them is a no no. Get a pro to do it or someone who has done many 7M heads.
Portmatching the gaskets on the exhaust manifold,intake manifold and cylinder head is worth the efforts. Sneaky too.

Synthetics-use them. Everywhere. Period. If car is leaking oil-fix the problem. The added cost is nothing compared to the benefits and HP gain. Synthetic blends are a waste.


Mods:

I feel if you want power more than stock this is the base for it. Full exhaust(meaning cat back and a down pipe),o2 housing,electronic boost controller,1 piece driveshaft,some sort of blow off valve(SAAB-no-fresh MK4-okay and cheap),synthetics,a real boost guage,autolight 3923 plugs with a smaller gap by about .10 over 11psi,bypassed fuel restrictor,K&N filtercharger kit,Walbo Pump(MK4 TT is good but pricey) and a FCD. Start with a good motor and then go intake and exhaust. Will be like a different car and will be reliable. Plus they support future modifications very well.


If you go crazy and use piggy backs before running the car have it tuned by a pro. The piggy backs make the car run rich to keep you from getting in trouble. They can help make serious power. Get help doing this. Don't get into the hype of peak HP. Its highly misleading. A car with a well tuned layout will waste one with even 100 MOR peak HP. TUNE the car!!

Lowing springs.sway bars, bigger wheels and tires. Keep in mind while they make the car handle better and look better they will hamper you at the strip. Pull out those sawblades you have been trying to sell for the last 5 years and mount some BFG drag radials for the track instead of those 18” rims with the 1” tall profile which is a big reason why your sixty foots flirt with the 2.5 range.

Going to the drag strip:

If you can-avoid the test and tune nights. Most tracks are not prepped and most of the people there are running street tires not to mention spilling water etc… everywhere. Go on a Saturday or event day. You will get more runs in and the track will be prepped. True its more money but in the long run its better than the 15$ you spend on Fridays for 2-4 crappy runs.

Prep-make sure you car is up to the task mechanically. If anything is wrong-it will get worse. Take all trash and junk out of the car. This adds weight. Take the spare tire and jack out-about 40 pounds.

Make sure the hood and roof are waxed and clean-that way the air velocity picks up. Don’t laugh-old timers do it


Limit runs-make sure you do it on a cool motor. Ice down the upper intake with a towel. Worth an easy 2 tenths or more over a hot motor. Have your buddies push that whale to the burnout box. While doing a burnout run the heater full blast. Make sure you don’t spill any water-7Ms,1Js have places for water to sit and on the launch can come flying out which can ruin it for you and other after you.


Tires-leave the street radials home and get some drag radials. If you car is a stick try 15psi and work your way down to 11psi. Too many factors to say which is best but the autos due to less drive line shock will like more PSI than the stick. Nittos like lots of heat-fry them. BFGS don’t-generate some smoke. If you have to run street radials make sure both are at the same psi.

Over inflate your front tires by about 10psi at the track for less rolling resistance.

Burnout-avoid getting the front tires in the water-you will ruin the track and the box. Get the rear tires barely touching the water and do a quick spin. Then move out and burn them up. The tech guys will guide you through this. Move up to the starting line while spinning once the tires are hot. You want to retain the heat in the tire. Dry hops are stupid-avoid them.


Staging-try to run after a slick equipped car-this will put some rubber down on the track. Also look for the groove and try to line up your tires with that(its indented-you want your rear tires to go through it). Stage shallow as possible-this will give you a rolling start. Could be a the difference between 13.9 and 14.0

Learn how to powershift-2 tenths. Be advised it can kill the tranny. The stick tranny is not stout.

Run the heater full blast on the return road.


Have friend’s video tape you so you can study your launch. The 60ft times are the most important. You need them in the 2.0-1.8 range depending on mods and tires.

Make notes on shift points and see if car picks up changing them.

Drink alcohol later not while racing. Its plain stupid.

[ma71supraturbo]

good info. :bigthumb:

Just curious, do you run with stock sway bars, or with the sway bars removed (front/back or both?)



For those with street tires:

air them down to 15-20psi. Mark the location of the valve stem on the sidewall with chalk. When you get back to the pits, make sure the chalk mark is still lined up with the valve stem. With khumo 712's, I noticed the bead will slip 1/4"-1" per run -- this can tear up the bead so add a little more pressure if you notice it (I haven't had that problem with any other tires).

You do not need to do a massive burnout on street tires. Overheating them will actually decrease their grip. Just do a quick spin to clear off rocks/debris. Because its only a quick spin, I don't recomend backing into the water, but instead doing it dry. Mike's advice to follow a car with slicks is good for 2 reasons -- they lay some rubber down, AND they generally don't drag water all over like many other racers do.

For reaction times -- with my car, I usually go the as the last yellow lights up. Do not wait until you see green before you go

[Supra_Dre]

damn mike-very informational! :D
although the dragstrip aint really my thing, if i ever go i'll keep your points in mind

[SuprAng]

good thread!

[MKlllSupra]

Nice article,i like the last point about the achohol drinking(bad at track!)

[Silver88Turbo]

Good post man:D

Its appreciated.

[Mike 92LX]

Taking the front bar off will help but its a PITA to do with the motor in the car
I think airing down street radials to 15-20psi doesn't work well because of the stiff sidewall. Never worked for me but then again there are a lot of tires I have not tried in the last 11 years of drag racing.

[Mike 92LX]

If you have tems-NORMAL works well.
For my car-HKS TEMS on soft works the best.

[ma71supraturbo]

I don't think it would matter what you set stock TEMS at, as the moment your TPS sees full throttle the TEMS computer sets them all to firm. You could, however, set the TEMS to the desired setting, and then unplug the actuator

[Mike 92LX]

Yes agreed but not on the HKS version. You can keep it locked on any position.

[FredTurbo]

Very good thread!

thanks for the info!:bigthumb:

[MKIIISupraGuy]

man someone pay Mike some MONEY for dropping all that knowledge!!!

;)

anyone who aspires to drag race their MK3 should read carefully and learn from someone who knows what they're talking about. Back when i first started drag racing my MK3, I had learn all of this by myself.

Much respect to ya Mike :)

[OB1JZA70]

All the secrets are out Although I will run my sway bars at all times. Way to help.

Orin B Sr

[Mike 92LX]

I should rephrase-BIGGER swaybars especially on the front can hurt you. Most of them are not hollow like the stocker so it addes weight.

High powered cars like Orin actually need a bigger one in the rear because at high speeds with slicks it can get hairy at the end of the track.

[Mike 92LX]

Thanks Leng,Fred but I am far from a Pro.
Just want to see more guys in the 11s and 12s this year with simple combos. The potential is there.

Maybe Chucky Doll and Blackhatch can post their secrets on launching.

[OB1JZA70]

Mike, again you are correct. I tried multiple settings with the rear combinations and since the car is lowered I noticed during the launch the inner tire is all that is left on the pavement. This doesn't help with lowering the sixty foot. However, I did have fun with my 7M beginnings with the stock suspension and got 1:9 sixty foots on BF Goofey Comp T/As. Best info I cn give is to get s much practice as possible. I have watch some video recordings of my runs nd didn't hear the blow off vlve between shifts during runs on my 5spd.

[BlackHatch]

Great info Mike. Mike is about the best in coming up with these sort of tutorials. He really helped my success on the street and stip.

Mike,

Not sure about launching but I know a 5K dump on street skins doesn't work because you want to kill the a-hole next to you.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by OB1JZA70
I have watch some video recordings of my runs nd didn't hear the blow off vlve between shifts during runs on my 5spd.

very godly

:hail:


Man, all the beans are being spilled...

pulling fast times still comes down to focus, determination, ability to adapt and adjust (both car and driver), and to some extent, talent.

[ma70man]

Awesome info especially the part that went like...

Originally posted by Mike 92LX
Drink alcohol later not while racing. Its plain stupid.
:D

[GreaseMonkey]

Great info! thanks for the advise.

Any one had sucsess stiffining thier rear subframe?

[punkybooster89t]

Excellent contribution to the forum Mike.

[paddlenbike]

What's the best way to launch a 5-speed? I'm GUESSING that holding the revs around 3,000 then stick your foot to the floor and feather out the clutch on the last orange light before the green? Let's assume we're talking basic mods and stock-width wheels with street tires.

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by paddlenbike
What's the best way to launch a 5-speed? I'm GUESSING that holding the revs around 3,000 then stick your foot to the floor and feather out the clutch on the last orange light before the green? Let's assume we're talking basic mods and stock-width wheels with street tires.

This is somewhat correct depending on your clutch life. Just let your clutch foot lift as normal street driving nd you will engge smoothly. Remember we hve a 3500+ car with a I6 that does produce torque until boost is present. Unlike the pro mods or drgster that hve ton of torque off idle and can just pop the clutch. As I mentioned before, practice, practice and then when you got it down, Practice some more!

Orin B Sr

[Woooossshhh]

ahh... ive been waiting for a thread like this to share my experiences....

first off... thanks mike for all the info...

- about the launches... my personal best with my mkiii was a 2.0... this was with 275/40/17 radial tires... i drove around the burnout box and just did a quick spin... DONT SMOKE YOUR STREET TIRES... i experimented myself... i noticed a .2 sec dropon my 60ft when doing a big smokey... i know everyone wants to show off but its not worth it... my fav rpm was about 3350... give or take 100 rpm's... i had a centerforce dual friction at the time so you have to slip accordingly... if you ever watch nhra races you will hear them talk about the cluch the most.... unless you have a built auto then the clutch will be your main concern for launching... if the track is hot and slick you will have to slip more to avoid wheel spin/hop... if its nice and cool with some good rubber down you can let her rip and get max power/boost to the track quicker... also different kind of clutches slip different than others...i know i was runnin 15psi on stock ct and when i would slip it perfectly you can feel it... the tires make a few rotations slipping then they catch... im sure bigger turbo/psi you will have more lag so less slip more throttle... its all in the feel.. you know when you make a good launch... but with the irs and weight it is sometimes had to do and takes practice... i would go find an empty country road and practice on there.. of course different types of raod surface will give you different results but practice is practice.... also.. the stock irs has its limitations for launching... when you put alot of power down, the car squats, and the wheels bow out.. causing wheel spin/hop... there are ways arround it but not alot... one of the reasons that a solid rear axle is better for launching...

- shifting... if you have a good 5spd tranny then you can powershift like i did... the biggest way to tell if you are doing it good is if your faster than the bov... the quickest way i have found is when its that time to shift... pull it out of gear as your pushing the clucth in.. this way your not waiting for it... so time it perfectly as the shifter is in neutral you just got the clutch in.. then pop it in and let that thing out as fast as you can..and get back on the gas... i dont reccomend WOT shifts... i experimented with this too and i would hit the rev limiter everytime then when i would let the clutch back out the revs would be bouncing down causing power/boost loss... now your clutch slipping isnt over yet... i know with my car on a hot track when i would shift into second the ass end was everywhere!... slip the clutch like you did on the launch when going into second... there is a lot of power being transmitted in this gear change and it is vital for good e.t.'s... after that unlees you have some mad hp then powershifting should do fine in the rest of the gears... if you are serious into drag racing dont be afraid to beat that tranny... its gonna pay off untill you break it.. but like i said if you are seriosuly into this.. your gonna break stuff.. tranny, axle's, rear ends,..ect... no your limits and drive/race accordingly...

-weight reduction..... this is a big issue to alot of drag racers... and also how you get fast honda's... 200whp in a 2000lb car is fast... 200whp in a 3500lb car is slow.... so anywas like mike stated.. take out the spare/jack and all that usless shit... especially an loose objects rolling arround.... not only for weight but saftey.... if you lose it and hit the wall going 100mph an screwdiver could kill ya... so take all of the useless stuff outta the car... make it as bare as possible... once again this goes back to how far you wanna go... you can take out seats, carpet, cd player... pretty much anything to make it lighter helps...

- bad weight reduction.... when i set my personal best... 13.1@105... this was full weight... i didnt take out anything... so the next time i went to the track, i stripped almost anything... i took out everything in the rear, seats, trim, carpet, pass seat, ect... and belive it or not... that 150-200 lbs actually slowed me down by .1 sec... the loss was in the 60ft.. same track and conditions but all 6 runs i did with that setup, i couldnt get that 60ft down... it was because i didnt have enuff weight over the rear tires... my trap went from 105 to 107 because of the less weight but i didnt have that extra grip... so this gets into suspension.

suspension... this is also a big part that i never got to expariment with... (BHG).. so i think im gonna skip messing with the stock irs and wasting my time with that and do a live rear end swap... most likely gonna back-half the car with tube chassis, tubbed with a 4-link 9" quick change diff... this will all come in time because its gonna be alot of time and money... but i will post results when i do..

sorry for this being so long... i just really enjoy drag racing and im trying to overcome the mkiii's disadvantages and prove to people that it can be a great drag car...

[MKIIISupraGuy]

i don't recommend powershifting our MK3's at all man. I powershifted my MK3 and cracked a flywheel. We have too much power/torque and it creates too much driveline shock.

With our MK3's, you should practice to the point where you can speed shift (let off throttle between shifts) as fast as you can power shift (throttle on). I know my speed-shifts are as fast as my powershifts by observing how much revs drop between changing gears and by listening to the tone of my exhaust. Kinda hard to explain. Anyhow, this will create less stress on the drive-train.

Another thing about drag racing: when I switched over to NItto drag radials and ran consistent mid 12's, I broke my stock motor mounts. I mean, they ripped right in half. I believe they ripped not from my launches, but from my shifts to 2nd gear. In 2nd the drag radials have enough grip to just make the car squat and GO. Prolly the speed at which I shift to 2nd also.

I then went to solid motor mounts and BFG drag radials, and I've been threatening 11's with my lil pea-shooter. But guess what? The R-154 can't take it anymore. I'm guessing the stress/shock that the old rubber motor mounts used to take away is being absorbed by the tranny now. So my tranny crapped out.

Anyhow those are some bottle-necks and problems. That's been my experience anyhow.

If you guys want to know how to drive a manual transmission car, go to the Drag Racing forum and check out some of Ryan Woon's videos. That dude can FLAT OUT drive. It's crazy! I appreciate good driving :)

[Woooossshhh]

MKIIISupraGuy had some great points...

yeah solid motor mounts are deffinately a good idea.. or if your puttin a motor in, its a good idea to atleast get new ones... or.. i learned a good trick from some uscle car guys.. you can chain the block down to reduce twisting....

and with the powershifting, it all goes back to how far do you wanna take it? if you have the money and can afford to break shit then have at it... if its your everyday driver then dont drag it at all... just gotta think smart with it...

[MRSUPRA]

As evidence from Supraguys car and others, the harder you launch and the better your car grips, the faster things break. For all of you planning on running BFG drag radials, ET steets, or slicks, make sure you have some money saved for possibly broken transmissions, worn clutches, broken motor mounts, Ects. Lots of force pushing against 3600 pounds.

[ZaZZn]

I agree... LoL I've got a spare tranny waiting in the garage sitting right beside the broken one... heh.. My 60 foots suck ass... especially with the new cheap tires I got for the back... best before was 2.1 on 275/40/17 bfg kdws these new cooper things suck ass.. lol.. Oops my bad!!

Don't worry I have bfg drag's comming next year... just getting the car ready :D

[Mike 92LX]

Solid motor mounts on a street car is a bad idea. You will need to replace a lot more if you go that route. It will also kill the ride big time.


I have been powershifting MK3s for years-I usually trash the internals before breaking anything else. They are not stout but I have a trick(treating the internals with a new process) I am trying out to see if I can get one to last. If the motor mounts are in good shape-the stock ones will work. Again its the age of them thats kills it.

Burnouts with street radials are not needed-they get greasy. A quick spin is all you need. They are stupid to use at the track anyway.

[ZaZZn]

Only reason I run the way I run at the track...

I have my spare, I have full air pressure, I have full tank of gas... I have the works.. Why? Because I want to know how fast my car is on the street... Since it's only a few times a year I can get to the drag strip.... I hate driving 2 hr's to break something and get towed home.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by Mike 92LX
Solid motor mounts on a street car is a bad idea. You will need to replace a lot more if you go that route. It will also kill the ride big time.


I have been powershifting MK3s for years-I usually trash the internals before breaking anything else. They are not stout but I have a trick(treating the internals with a new process) I am trying out to see if I can get one to last. If the motor mounts are in good shape-the stock ones will work. Again its the age of them thats kills it.

Burnouts with street radials are not needed-they get greasy. A quick spin is all you need. They are stupid to use at the track anyway.

u nailed it right on the head mike. as usual :)

solid motor mounts... man your car will shake a lot more with these on. at first i shitted my pants and was gonna cry because it's SO less refined. After a while u get used to it I guess. Not as good for daily driving. my car will be a weekend driver/racer so i'm cool.

I believe my motor mounts were in excellent shape. One day after a street race, i noticed my motor was tilted in my engine bay. Had my mechanic look at it, I had ripped a mount clean in half. I mean looked like someone yanked that peice of rubber in half :eek:

Mike I really agree with you on using street radials and the track. They are very inconsistent and can’t hold the torque that our cars make. It’s pretty stupid. At least at the tracks I go to anyhow. Some tracks are very well prepped and people cut 1.9 60ft’s. At the tracks that I go to, I wouldn’t dream of doing better than 2.3 60ft on true street radials.

[Chucky Doll]

Great info Mike.

Street tires are pointless at the track especially with a high HP turbo cars. I've run both Nitto DR's and BFG DR's. As Mike stated 15 psi is a good starting point. The nittos require lots of heat to get a great launch. It is my experience that you will have to launch at a lower rpm with Nitto's Vs. BFG's b/c of the harder rubber compound. It's much easier to wheel hop on Nittos over BFGs. BFGs tend to bog the car down if you don't give them enough rev's. Hope all of this makes sense, feel free to shoot questions.:cool:

Secondly a good clutch is key to great launchs. It is my experience that slipping the clutch out of the hole will yield greater results vs. a straight dump (excludes ET Streets :D ) Your turbo size will determine how high you come out of the whole.

Finally if you really want a nice 60ft a Cusco LSD will do wonders for a MKIII.

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by MKIIISupraGuy
u nailed it right on the head mike. as usual :)

solid motor mounts... man your car will shake a lot more with these on.
I made these mounts and flanges to drop 1JZ/2JZ engine into my Cusdtomers cars when getting the aluminum brackets wasn't available. The motor mounts have worked flawlessly with hi hp Supras like mine, Will Neely and Arnout and friends cars. I have them powder coated and ready to ship in the US for 250.00 a pair and the carry a life time warranty. I powershift and haven't had a probvlem with tranny, flywheel or my motor mounts and actually helped to lower my sixty foot times to 1:69 on BFG D/R at 14psi.

Email or pm me or call me at 254-371-1121. Got several sets ready to go.

Orin B Sr

[OB1JZA70]

side view.

[Mike 92LX]

These will work on a 7M?
No change in ride quality?

[MKIIISupraGuy]

what mike said

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by Mike 92LX
These will work on a 7M?
No change in ride quality? Yes Mike they will work on the 7M GTE motors. I have had mine on and the car hasn't rattled of a bolt or shook out my tooth filling as of yet. The mounts are rigid to where you cannot move the motor from side to side like the Toyota mounts. Yet still letting you use the car on a daily.

Orin B Sr

[Mike 92LX]

I will take a set. Please save me a pair. I will try to come next week to pick them up. I am swapping shortblocks in my so install will not be a big deal.

Thanks.

[bdekoning]

orin, i asked you in another thread and never got an answer

please share what kind of wheels you have on the drag car, and what size.

btw, you guys ever think of chaining the block down?

thanks,
Bill de Koning

[Adam W]

I bought a set of those motor mounts from Arnout, and they're pretty good. They look indestructible, but there is a thin cushion of polyurethane that sits between the motor side and the body side which takes the edge off the vibration. I noticed a bit more NVH but daily drove the car for a few months with them fitted and it didn't really bother me.

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by bdekoning
orin, i asked you in another thread and never got an answer

please share what kind of wheels you have on the drag car, and what size.

btw, you guys ever think of chaining the block down?

thanks,
Bill de Koning

Mike, I have a set waiting for you. Let me know when you are coming down. I passed rigth by your area on the way to Black Lake Park last weekend and thought about dropping by.


Bill, I am running 300 ZX TT wheels in the back which are 16X9 I believe. The reason I run them is because they were the thickest stock 16s, the rims were lighter in comparison to the stock 10 hole wheels and the were free. Although I am a big fan of the BFG D/R, I also run Mickey Thompson ET street for severe duty track events. The ETs are a tad bit more uncontrollable with sway on the mid to top iend of the track, but the give me the best sixty foot times. No need to chain the block down with the polymounts at all. The motor doesn't move and all the torque is transferred to the rear of the car. HTH.

Orin B Sr

[Woooossshhh]

hey OB1 clean out your pm box!!

[Mike 92LX]

Thanks Orin. When I get a free minute I will call. I am actually in Towson now,I swamped and behind on everything thanks to work.

[bdekoning]

why doesnt anyone try using 15" wheels?
is it hard to find a positive offset or what..
cause 16" isnt that popular of a drag racing wheel size

[Woooossshhh]

actually they make alot of 16" drag tires... not as much as 15" tho... either would be good.... do 15" clear the brakes ok?

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by Woooossshhh
hey OB1 clean out your pm box!!

[bdekoning]

also, lowering the car is not justifiable at all on the drag strip.

anyone know what the best time an mk4 guy has cut in the 60 foot using the stock TT wheels in the back with drag radials?

[ma70ltd]

Thanks for the info Mike.

[daniloreyes]

Originally posted by Woooossshhh
actually they make alot of 16" drag tires... not as much as 15" tho... either would be good.... do 15" clear the brakes ok?

Good question,
Do they make real slicks in 16"?

[Woooossshhh]

Originally posted by daniloreyes
Good question,
Do they make real slicks in 16"?

yep... im lookin in jegs now... they have a good selection too...

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by daniloreyes
Good question,
Do they make real slicks in 16"?

I have ET 26X16 slicks.

[joliroger4]

Do you have problems with your limited slip running that tall of a tire? I have 26" M&H Racemasters and I spin one wheel and not the other if I don't do the burnout in the burnout box.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by joliroger4
Do you have problems with your limited slip running that tall of a tire? I have 26" M&H Racemasters and I spin one wheel and not the other if I don't do the burnout in the burnout box.

i have that same problem with my BFG Drag Radials. if i don't do my brake stand in the water box, either:

1. one wheel will spin faster than the other

OR

2. one wheel will stay in place while the other one roasts.

never had that problem with the nitto drag radials. i think the BFG's are way too sticky... i run the 75W90 Redline synthetic gear oil in my LSD, and i've heard that it has TOO much friction modifiers allowing the LSD to slip some. might have to look into changing my LSD fluid...

[Woooossshhh]

true but with tires "sooo" stickey an lsd wouldnt matter would it? or would you have a loss of power?

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by Woooossshhh
true but with tires "sooo" stickey an lsd wouldnt matter would it? or would you have a loss of power?

it matters. if i can't get both tires to do a burnout properly, i spin more off the line and my 60ft times go up. when both tires spin and i am able to do a proper burn out, my supra squats and go's, usually cutting 1.8xx 60ft times.

[2JZ_MA70]

Any of the guys runing slicks...
Do you have your cars lowered at all?

What is the biggest tire that can be used with the eibach springs/tokico struts?

Would any 15" drag wheels clear on the back?

[joliroger4]

I run eiboch springs and my 26" M&H racemasters fit. They are mounted on sawblades. I can also tell you, they are larger than 26" like the manufacturer specs. I also picked up a set of 26x11.5 MT ET streets on ebay a few weeks ago becuase I wanted to see how they worked compared to the M&H. They are on RX7 (16x8) rims. From what I am told they'll fit without a problem but I wont be mounting them till the motor is back in the car.

I think there might be something to the diff oil too. I haven't run the car since I rebuilt the 88 diff, but I built it on the tight side and I put in the same oil as you Leng. It chatttered around corners. I kept putting in little doses of Mopar LSD additive till it stopped. I built mine on the tight side though, maybe thats why I needed more additive than you and you have too much without even adding any.

[2JZ_MA70]

Let me know how the MT fit Im interested in thouse exactly...

[2JZ_MA70]

It would be nice to start a wheel/tire fitment guide with pictures and specs for the diferent tires and peoples experiencess with them...

[joliroger4]

I'll do that, remember there are two types of RX7 wheels, one that is prone to cracking and one that isnt.

http://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=2154660

The one on the right is the stronger rim that will not crack.

[OB1JZA70]

Originally posted by joliroger4
Do you have problems with your limited slip running that tall of a tire? I have 26" M&H Racemasters and I spin one wheel and not the other if I don't do the burnout in the burnout box.

I got the diffs in stock for our car and sinmce I got them in a batch of 5 or more, they run 900.00 plus shipping each if anyone is interested. I have only one extra TRD diff left and it may be sold. I put one in my Type R 1JZ diff instead of the torsen and I used one on my stock MA71 diff. No more one wheel wonder now.

Orin B Sr

[ma71supraturbo]

I also would add this little tid bit:

If you're say in the Towerside, and the turn-off at the end is on the spectator side, wait for the other car to turn off before you go. It's a courtesy thing, but also a safety concern in case the car you turn in front of isn't slowing down in time

[daniloreyes]

Originally posted by joliroger4
I run eiboch springs and my 26" M&H racemasters fit. They are mounted on sawblades. I can also tell you, they are larger than 26" like the manufacturer specs. I also picked up a set of 26x11.5 MT ET streets on ebay a few weeks ago becuase I wanted to see how they worked compared to the M&H. They are on RX7 (16x8) rims. From what I am told they'll fit without a problem but I wont be mounting them till the motor is back in the car.

I think there might be something to the diff oil too. I haven't run the car since I rebuilt the 88 diff, but I built it on the tight side and I put in the same oil as you Leng. It chatttered around corners. I kept putting in little doses of Mopar LSD additive till it stopped. I built mine on the tight side though, maybe thats why I needed more additive than you and you have too much without even adding any.
What was your 60 ft times with the slicks?

[grankor]

About warming the tires, what do you guys recommend for the autos? Power breaking? (ouch) or line locks? Or would a tranny drop be sufficient?

[AWIDESUPIE]

Originally posted by grankor
About warming the tires, what do you guys recommend for the autos? Power breaking? (ouch) or line locks? Or would a tranny drop be sufficient?

Most people with manuals just "power-brake". A line-lock is always a PLUS but it isn't really needed.

[Mike 92LX]

"I have been powershifting MK3s for years-I usually trash the internals before breaking anything else. They are not stout but I have a trick(treating the internals with a new process) I am trying out to see if I can get one to last. If the motor mounts are in good shape-the stock ones will work. Again its the age of them thats kills it"

The process after 1 year of trashing has held up. Chyro treating worked well for me on the R154.

[shaeff]

hey mike, have you an approximate cost on the cryo treatment?

thanks:)

-shaeff

[Mike 92LX]

I think it was 400-500$ for the whole assembly and internals

[Shred]

I also would add this little tid bit:

So would I. About being at the track the first time. You can always go and not run your car. Watch and learn. And go ask questions about how and why is his "slow car" in mph, can have a much quicker ET than you. Like why is his car running an 11.8 at only 113.

Don't come off as a know it all, or that the fast guys owe you the information either. But they will probably gladly tell you why they are fast.

[Kamikazi MKIII]

to answer the question about the 15" wheels. Yes they can fit, I have a set on mine fitted with a set of M/T 26X10.50 slicks. I also fit a set of 15X3.5" wheels on the front for skinnies

[thradil]

Great info u all will help out a lota ppl. I would stay away from power shifting if your making good hp & tq numbers. thats just my 2 cents. i have solid motor mounts, single pice drive shaft and front, rear sub frame bushings. also almost all BPU and o boy do u feel that tq putting u back in the seat (7m powered). after saying that i think power shifting is a lil to hard on a stock r154. It was a lil to much for my clutch, not lmao :furious: $700 for a new one and flywheel. TAKING DONATINGS

[Mike 92LX]

Works for me. Helps a poor low rpms powered car make up some ET

[T-LAV MRV]

(previous car)not powershifting, but the run before my 13.0 i ran this, and i am on et streets at full pressure.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UsXp20gD8c best run i got was a 13.0 at 113mph with a t78, stock r154(slippin the clutch off the line) and ofcourse there was noone there to catch it on camera.

[vacuumlogic]

Nice thread

[marcmann982]

go info mann and solid write up gota spread the info to the supranoobs lol