General maintenance

[Bishop92T]

I'm seeing a lot of posts with people asking about basic maintenance - fluid capacities in particular. This is all basic stuff found in the owners manual. I'd like to see a moderator put a sticky on this and possibly some input on other common maintenance questions.

Engine Oil
7M-GE
dry fill: 5.2qts
drain and refill with filter: 4.7qts
drain and refill w/o filter: 4.3qts
7M-GTE
dry fill: 5.7qts
drain and refill with filter: 5.0qts
drain and refill w/o filter: 4.7qts

Cooling System
7M-GE: 8.6qts
7M-GTE: 8.7qts

Manual Transmision Oil
7M-GE W58: 2.6qts
7M-GTE R154: 3.2qts

Automatic Transmission Oil
Dry fill: 7.6qts
Drain and refill: ~1.7qts

Rear Differential Oil
1.4qts

Spark Plugs
7M-GE: .043" (1.1mm)
ND PQ16R
NGK BCPR5EP11
7M-GTE: .031" (.8mm)
ND PQ20R-P8
NGK BCPR6EP-N8

Wheel Lug Torque: 76 ft/lbs

[viviana]

Actually, this leads me to ask a question that I had quite forgotten about. When I was shopping around for my Supra, I happened upon a Supra in very, very nice condition, except for a couple things that I probably would've mucked with anyways (interior stuff). However, it had no owner's manual. I wanted the car, so I hopped down to my local Toyota dealer to see if they could get me an 89T owner's manual. Nope, they couldn't. I ended up not buying the car, and the one I did get has the owner's manual, but incase anything happens to mine and because I now have a friend possibly in the market for a Supra... Does anyone know where you can get owner's manuals? Or is that a lost cause?

-V
Suspecting Ebay... :rolleyes:

[Typenamehere]

Yeah, I have the '89 owners manual, its pretty useless. TSRM online (http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/) and SupraForums are far more helpful ;)

[INDO1472]

http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=maintenanceOverview.htm

www.supras.nl

also some very good info (1st link shows by mileage)

[Gary Manko]

Try contacting Toyota Publications @ 800-622-2033. Just purchased new manual and cover for a 4Runner and it was less than any being offered on ebay.

[1QwikMK3]

Differential oil info: Thank you to wera172 for this.

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by supraian
what size is the filler and drian plug?
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Both plugs have a wrench size of 24mm. You'll need two qts of the 80w90 "rear axle lubricant" and one bottle of the LSD additive; about $12 total.

To fill it, I used a clear hose long enough to reach up through the wheel well from the diff - much easier to put the oil back in that way...

Put the LSD stuff in first, and then mine took 1.2 qts of the diff oil.

hth...

Brands?? Yeah, the Ford stuff from the Ford dealer. Seriously! Read my first post. lol. I guess I should've made it more clear...the 80w90 "rear axle lube" is for the differential - I just said it that way because that's how the bottle is labeled to make it easier for those running to the Ford dealer to buy some.

You do have to tell the parts guy that you also need a bottle of LSD additive to go with it. The diff holds a little over a quart, so you'll need to get 2 qts of the diff oil (rear axle lube), and one bottle of the lsd additive will be enough.

Here is the quote from Reg:
2.2: Differential Carriers : Another condition that may trouble your Supras differential is lack of regular oil changes; this will lead to differential failure or premature wear out. The MA-70 differential holds a very small amount of oil so it needs to be changed regularly. Cold climates are very hard on the differential. I recommend using a good quality synthetic in cold climates. I do not recommend standard 80/90 wt oils in any Toyota differentials used in cold climates. Using 75/90-wt LSD differential carrier oil from Ford motor company makes Supra differentials run quieter and smoother than any other oils tested.

Some LSD differentials in MA-70 and MA-71 cars have excessive LSD {limited slip differential} cage pressure causing premature clutch pack failures after some cars have become stuck in mud or snow, I have opened up badly abused differentials where the LSD oil is completely burnt and Dried up from the heat of one wheel smoking while the other is locked. If you notice some chattery noise from the rear of the car when turning corners donít panic: you have a supra with a very tight LSD differential carrier. On a Supra with tight LSD you can avoid the above clutch pack failure by using the previously mentioned LSD differential carrier oil from Ford motor company. This oil has increased protection for the clutch pack and has proven to be the best differential oil for all Supras from 1982 to 1992. Don't ask me why, all I can say is this oil works like magic. Note: A number of club members are using synthetic oils from Amsoil and Esso in their differentials with good results, one word of caution should be noted." Synthetic oils may make a some differentials that are already noisy, noisier."

Here is a link to the whole page:
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonic...3/mk3_pmtn.html

Keep in mind that Ford doesn't make the 75w90 anymore, only the 80w90 that you have to add the lsd additive to.

[Mk3_300]

Has anyone ever heard about needing to change out the power steering fluid after (x) number of years?

[ARTSUPRA]

Originally posted by Mk3_300
Has anyone ever heard about needing to change out the power steering fluid after (x) number of years?

I tought that user manual says:

" As per Toyota design powersteering fluid will leak out from the system on continues basis, there is no need for it to be changed because it will be refilled with new fluid over time"

[dziuggy]

what do you guys think about redline oil and MTL and diferential oil etc i heard it is preaty good stuff. ziggy

[chevydude]

Just wanted to throw in my two cents. Take out and Clean out that overflow bottle. That thing gets filthy. ESPECIALLY if youve had a BHG. Heres my simple walk through. Get yourself a 10mm ratchet, get under the car where the bottle is, unbolt the mounting bracket, unplug the sensor, get back up out under neat the car and take of the top bolt it will come right out, clean that thing out, you'll see what I mean. To reinstall, repeat the disassembly orders backwards.

[Mostly Thumbs]

I cleaned mine too. Use a 30% bleach solution (i did mine overnight) now it's nice and white!

[Bishop92T]

That overflow bottle should come straight out without needing to take the two 10mm bolts off. Pull straight up on the bottle and it should snap out of place. Then disconnect the sensor and you're ready to clean.

[chevydude]

Really? Mine was stuck, and in fear of damaging I just unbolted seeing how it took like a minute.

[makenzie71]

For those of you who have a hard time filling things like the differential and trannies and such...get a super soaker. I still have an original SS50 that I use. You can fill the tank and break off the barrel, inside the barrel is a rubber hose which leads to the nozzle. Cut the hose off the nozzle and it's easily long enough to reach into your various lube resavoirs.

[Freedy89T]

I would like to have a list of fluid requirements for the car in stock condition and in modified(read best) condition. I just picked up some clutch fluid at Anvanced and the guy said there is a chance that it uses ATF instead of regular DOT 3 brake fluid...for the clutch. I figured other people would want to know fluid types...and also other stuff about adding synthetic after mineral oil and so forth. My mechanic says synthetic is good for over 4-500 deg F while mineral starts to break down after about 220-240 deg F. Just some random stuff like that

and my question. Do our clutches use regular brake fluid or ATF?

[ridah]

break

[Thermactor]

what kind of a jackass recommends ATF for a hydraulic clutch system? ATF WILL RUIN YOUR MASTER AND SLAVE CYLINDERS.
Run brake fluid, no questions asked. I filled mine with Valvoline synth but I don't think it makes a difference for the clutch.

[AWIDESUPIE]

That's "brake"(DOT 3 AND OR DOT 4).
Dunno why he told you that you may run ATF for the hydraulic clutch sytem. BUT ... we do/can use ATF for PowerSteering.

Standard fluid requirements are found with the online TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/index.html

and the online handbook: http://www.brandwood.net/supra/handbook/

I just use all compatible Amsoil fluids and may "upgrade" (EDIT: viscosity/Amsoil product fluctuations /EDIT) according to miscellaneous information and to weather fluctuations.

As far as temp ratings etc ... I take what people say with a grain of salt and ask for documentation comparisons. I beleive things better when I read/research them for myself.

[Thermactor]

If you want to get really specific, look for the brake fluid that is the least hygroscopic. That way your clutch cylinder seals last a lot longer.

[MKIIINA]

one more but back to the point..oil, brake, and antifreeze pop up right off the bat. shop around, research, adn youll be fine

[ma71supraturbo]

owners manual page 151 (yes they mispelled "engine"):



*NOTE* this is a manual from 1987 -- 1989 Manuals require Research Octane No. of 96 (Octane Rating 91)

[ma71supraturbo]

page 152:

[ma71supraturbo]

page 153:

[chevydude]

Heres a helpful hint for those trying to get those valve cover screw gaskets/rings off. I dont have "Heman" strength, but I have a clever mind. Anyway I tried to take off those Valve Cover screw gaskets off. You know, those ones with rubber and metal. I couldnt get them off, so what I did and what you can do to get them off is easy and qucik.

Heres the items that you'll need:
1.)Find a 9/16in deep socket or metric equivalent.
2.) A regular hammer
3.) A vise grip is highly reccomended, but not needed.

Get the Deep socket with the open end pointing up and tighten it down in a Vise grip. You dont have to have one, but it keeps you from accidentally smashing your hand by holding it. Now place the screw with the head facing down into the socket. The screw will now be "floating" in the socket. Now get the hammer and you can tap the screw out almost all the way out of the gasket. You'll get to a certain point where its flush and you can take out the screw and the gasket can get pulled right off easily. MUCH better than trying to yank on it for like 2 mins. This is most effective and quickest way with out getting p.o.ed that its not coming off.

[NMS71]

Somebody should pound home the oil change requirement. If you go to see a car for sale, and it is obviously old, dont buy it. If it looks like its just been changed and is real light, they flushed it to hide it and dont buy it.

Or you will end up with a bad bearing. And the "7M rod knock problem" that isnt really a problem to this engine.

[Shlongor]

Odd... alldata reccomended ~90 ft lb for wheel nut torque. This seems more appropriate for a heavy car with aluminum wheels. Why would our torque be lower than a Civic's?

[speedin89]

ARE YOU SERIOUS!?!?!?!

I just changed my oil in PA...it's about 68-90 deg. outside daily in summer...I just put in 10w-30...should I RUN to drain it out and put in something thicker??

This is my second summer running 10-30 w/ no problems... :dunno:

I'm not puttin' in something crazy...but 10/15-40 i'll do.

what's the best solution to my alleged mistake??
LMK

-Steve

[bluetaon]

hey i just bought an mk3 replaced the head gasket and the sparkplugs like na ididot i pulled out all the flugs on both side ...do you think any of yous would know the firing patten so i can put my spark plugs back in order and if so can yoiu just send it to my e-mail at hazen91387@yahoo.com

[bluetaon]

i need help..i pulled out all my spark plug wires on my 7mge and i dunno which order they go now can anyone help

[bluetaon]

new problem changedt he spark plugs and valve cover gasket and now the car idols like poo..do you guyst hink its becuase there is maybe more oil down in the spark plug or maybe the spark plugs werent gapped right...why do you guyst hink why would my car idol low and rough

[Cuel]

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

Very enlightening faq. about oil.

Thanks Suprageezer, I book marked it and read it numerous times....