CT-26 upgrade info

[1QwikMK3]

Hey guys... I would like to compile your ct-26 upgrade info for a sticky thread....please include things as price, where you had it done, are you happy with it, how much boost your pushing on it rwhp ect.. + anything you feel is valid to those asking about the upgrade... this comes up alot so I think it would be helpfull

Edit: if your reading this thread for info on the upgrade, and your not gettin the answer your looking for... feel free to ask it here :)


thanks..
Jeremy:)

[1QwikMK3]

Guess I'll start it off.....:)

My CT-26 was upgraded to a 60 trim compressor wheel,and 10 degree clip on the exhaust.. I gave the turbo to Apex-r motorsports in Phoenix Arizona...however it was sent to another shop for the upgrade, so honestly I dont know who did the work.

The upgrade cost me $750.00

with just the upgraded turbo, hks filter, and HKS 75mm catback exhaust I put down 211rwhp and 251rwtq all else was stock, 6psi boost....this was with a stuck open bov I later realized.

my previous dyno on the stock turbo was 198hp and 230 tq.... bad bov, 6 psi boost.. so just adding the upgrade ct gained me 14hp and 21tq

I dynoed it one more time with boost set to 10 psi and put down 238 hp and 284 tq.

I eventually did the lexus afm/ 550 upgrade and set boost to 15psi, but the turbo failed a month or so later so I never got to dyno again with it.

The turbo lasted around 60,000 miles before the impeller began to scrape the housing under boost. I did not determine the cause of it, but I assume bearing failure possibly due to a poor balance/rebuild job... Im not sure though.

[David_rg79]

I have a 60-1 upgrade form PT with 10 clip
I'm 1 bar on all stock fuel and she hauls butt!

PT did it for $475, they had it in the shop for like 4 days and had it back to me in about 1 weeks time.

I'm very happy with my turbo, they bore the heck out of it, and it spools nice and fast:)


david

[HamsMKIV]

I had PT do a TO4E .60 compressor and 14 degree clip. I paid $450 for the mod. I have no dynoed my car yet. I pull on my friend's 1994 TT auto who puts down 390 to the wheels. I am running 1.3 bar. Check my sig for my supporting mods. Also, I am 127K on the stock bottom-end. Overall, the turbo was the most substantial increase in power of all my mods... I am extremely happy with the turbo upgrade. If I had to do it again, I would probably change my exhaust clip to a 12 degree.

Chris

[MKIIISupraGuy]

I had the Perf tech. 60-1, 10 degree clip upgrade. They did it for $475 and had it back to me very quickly. The only time it took was in the shipping only took them like a day to do the actual upgrade :).

When I upgraded my turbo, untuned @ 1.2 bar (17.4 psi) on 93 octane pump gas i did 333rwhp. We leaned out my S-AFC and I was able to pull off 372rwhp. I dumped in some race gas, cranked up the boost to 1.5 bar (21.75 psi) and did 390rwhp but I hit fuel cut :(. We didn't have enough time to tune out the f/c on the dyno but I was able to tune it out later on.

At the tracks (what i really care about, dyno numbers only tell me how tuned my car is i dont' really pride myself in dyno numbers) I did a best of 12.71 @ 111.96 mph with my 372rwhp setting (pump gas, 1.2 bar). With my 390rwhp setting I leaned out the S-AFC a little on the top end and tuned out the fuel cut, and I was able to do 12.44 @ 115.07mph. That's Dodge Viper GTS territory btw.

The upgraded ct-26 is a really nice turbo since it spools so quickly and hits really hard on the high end. With good traction and a competent driver it's really hard to beat a MK3 with this combination. I've surprised many BPU MK4 owners as well as an M3 owner and a lot more others. I'd have to say the coolest race I've had last year was against a 20G turbo AWD 1st gen DSM. It was a good close race but ultimately I pulled him very hard on the high end.

Anyhow I hope I haven't rambled on too much. You can click on my "www" button and navigate to my dyno sheets and timeslips. Peace and enjoy the upgraded ct-26 :).

[ma71supraturbo]

I had a Turbo Data in San Luis Obispo do my 60-1 with clipped exhaust. Cost me $650 including a new exhaust housing (mine was toast after the stocker's shaft broke leaving the exhaust wheel to run amuck in the housing). He also threw in a turbonetics MBC. Haven't dynod it yet, but I'm estimating ~300bhp with 10psi (trapping 104mph in the 1/4). It's got 6,000 miles on it, and (knock on wood) so far so good. I've heard a lot of bad things about rebuilt turbos, so I'm crossing my fingers and hoping for at least 20,000 out of this one...

[Alex36]

What are the various clips, and what do they do? Also, HamsMKIII, why would you go with 12?
Seems I blew mine tonight, so time for rebuild.

Alex

[David_rg79]

less clip=more spool
more clip means=more hp can be ran

I'm almost positive I'm correct

but someone help me out, i dotn know if I'm describing it right

[HamsMKIV]

David you're right.

The Clip helps top-end flow... The problem is if you go too far you lose total boost potential. The 14 degree is better suited for a stock elbow IMO. I run the Defcon DP and it's from the Turbine back. I think for my setup I could have run a 12 degree and been okay.

My turbo doesnt really make boost until 3000 now. I bet with the 12 degree I would make it more like 2700-2800. I tell you though, from 5000 on it's like GODDAMN! It pulls so freakin hard it makes my MKIV buddy scared.

Chris

[Dominic]

I have a Performance Techniques CT-26 60 Trim clipped 10 deg. .
400 Cash and Carry. I think I am the only person thats ever been to there shop and met the owner, who is a very nice guy.

Dominic


www.turbocharged.com

[HamsMKIV]

Damn that's a pretty car Dominic.

Envious I am. :p

Chris

[myMUSICveins]

less clip=more spool
more clip means=more hp can be ran

I'm almost positive I'm correct

but someone help me out, i dotn know if

Let me clarify, less clip=FASTER spool. i think thats a better word

Also, there is a limit to what the stock CT-26 housings can flow. i know that at a certain point, it doesnt matter how large your compressor wheels is, or how much its clipped. they are somewhat restrictive

[MKIIISupraGuy]

is there anyone besides me who will post up dyno numbers and 1/4 mi times?:rolleyes:

or does everyone just likes to bench race? :p

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by MKIIISupraGuy
is there anyone besides me who will post up dyno numbers and 1/4 mi times?:rolleyes:

or does everyone just likes to bench race? :p

I wish I had data to post :)

Actually I havent had my car but 4 months now. Actually MKIIISupraGuy, I have you to thank for everything on my car. I had no idea where to go with my car and you showed me the way. Thank you for that.

I plan to dyno my car later this month once I get my SAFC-II tuned to my satisfaction. As for time slips..... The closest 1/4 mile to me is 2 hours away :(

Perhaps soon though!

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by HamsMKIII


I wish I had data to post :)

Actually I havent had my car but 4 months now. Actually MKIIISupraGuy, I have you to thank for everything on my car. I had no idea where to go with my car and you showed me the way. Thank you for that.

I plan to dyno my car later this month once I get my SAFC-II tuned to my satisfaction. As for time slips..... The closest 1/4 mile to me is 2 hours away :(

Perhaps soon though!

no plm bro :). make sure you tune that's key. Hehe my closest track is 1 hour 30 minutes away. when i ran my first 12 second run I had to drive 3 hours to get to the track :). just depends on how much u love to race.

it'd just be nice to see what others have done with this little turbo.

for the record I believe John Lunsford and Matt Talbert have the highest hp dyno numbers at 440rwhp SAE and 450rwhp SAE respectively. Matt's also been able to do a 12.3 @ 111mph (?) and I think that's just AWSOME. I think a dude in australia has done 12.1 with slicks, built auto, etc. That might be the official 1/4 mile record for the ct-26 turbo. I have the fastest 5 speed that I know of. If you know differently then let us all know :).

[HamsMKIV]

Thanks for the words of advice. I've been tuning and tuning to get the car right. I've started rich and I'm slowly taking back fuel until I hit my curve that I want. I figure better to be rich and take fuel away right!

Anyways, I should have some numbers by the end of the month. I can hardly wait.

Chris

[MKIIISupraGuy]

hijack? dude i'm just saying wtf has people done with this turbo? now i know all u guys care about is dyno #'s but there are a few hardcore drag racers that would like to know 1/4 mi times so i listed mine. if u wanna list yours cool if you too embarrased to list its cool too it's all good share what you think is relavent.

[chrisc]

The quickest supra with a upgrade ct26 turbo was a guy with a 88 blue turbo supra. This was about 6 years ago in a turbo magizine. The article said that he was running 12.0 at 115 mph with stock injectors and 15psi of boost, with 315 35 17 on the rear. This is what got me looking at the mk111 supra's. I bought one about a month later and I still have it.

[Nick T.]

12.0 @ 115mph and stock injectors, OK.

Please scan and post the article.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by Nick T.
12.0 @ 115mph and stock injectors, OK.

Please scan and post the article.

didn't u run 12.1 @ 113mph with the upgraded ct-26? ;)

[sm623cc]

ok i plan to do a .54 trim, because i dont really want to go with the 550 cc injectors or maybe lex afm, i just want to go with walbro and afpr, but if i go with 60 trim is it still ok to run on stock injectors and AFM? ill also be buying a EBC and a hks s-afr to tune things.

[HamsMKIV]

JBLMK3 runs my setup but on stock injectors I think. He's running the .60 with upgraded AFPR and fuel pump with no problems.

Can't say that it will work or not. I would probably pm him directly and get his opinion.

I think the 550's are a good idea because it's always to overbuild and have more than you need. I would much rather be in this boat than being right on the edge of the limits of my fuel system.

Chris

[1QwikMK3]

Originally posted by sm623cc
ok i plan to do a .54 trim, because i dont really want to go with the 550 cc injectors or maybe lex afm, i just want to go with walbro and afpr, but if i go with 60 trim is it still ok to run on stock injectors and AFM? ill also be buying a EBC and a hks s-afr to tune things.

yes bro, you will be fine to run a 60trim upgrade on stock afm and injectors.. GTXSupra is running that setup, and making 270rwhp and his af ratio's are still way rich.. go with the 60 man.

[GTXSupra]

Originally posted by 1QwikMK3


yes bro, you will be fine to run a 60trim upgrade on stock afm and injectors.. GTXSupra is running that setup, and making 270rwhp and his af ratio's are still way rich.. go with the 60 man.


Yep, Jeremy is correct. With the only mods being FAL fans, Defcon dp, and HKS sport exhaust, and the 60t ct-26 w/10degree clipped rear wheel, I hit 270+ rwhp and did that at just under 10lbs of boost. At the time I had no way to stop fuel cut and 10lbs was as high as I could go. It was running so rich on the dyno, it was off their scale. When I backed out of the throttle it, it blew a ball of fire 6 feet out the back of the car and melted their probe in the exhaust :devil: Probably wouldnt have happened if I had the cat in.

I will say this, I believe this upgrade doesnt even come alive until 12+ lbs of boost. I've had a Lex AFM I plan on putting in the car when I get the 550 injectors. Since it raises fuel cut, I decided to toss it in one day and see what happens. HOLY SH*T! The first time I jumped on it, it hit 15lbs and the car went sideways halfway through 2nd gear. I know I was pushing well over 300rwhp at that boost, maybe near 350. I unwillingly pulled the Lex out for fear of motor meltdown :(


I will get the the track as soon as I feel the car is ready. Right now, I dont feel it could put down its best numbers because of a ill shifting tranny and fuel cut, but I'm working on it. Plus I dont really have the best tires for launching. When I do go, I wont be embarrassed to post the times.

BTW, my ct was done by Performance Techniques. I planned on doing their $475 deal, but my core was junk, so they pulled one off their shelf and I had to pay $750 for it. It was done in two days. Most places get $600+ just to rebuild a ct-26 to stock, so its definetely a great deal.

edit: One more thing.........I really cant stress enough how much power the Defcon downpipe puts out with the upgraded turbo, it is also a big factor in the major hp jump over my meager stock (166rwhp) numbers. So, unless you have a very freeflowing exhaust, you wont realize the big improvements of the upgraded CT-26. What goes in, must come out ;)

[sm623cc]

so what are the advantages of the .54 trim over the 60, cuz of u can really run the 60 trim without the 550xx injectors and lexus afm then ill get the 60 trim, i plan to have the walbro fuel pump, aem afpr, apexi s-afc, and apexi avc-r. will that do without the 550cc injector and lex afm? or hks s-afr and hks evc V, dunno which to go with yet.

[GTXSupra]

Originally posted by sm623cc
so what are the advantages of the .54 trim over the 60, cuz of u can really run the 60 trim without the 550xx injectors and lexus afm then ill get the 60 trim, i plan to have the walbro fuel pump, aem afpr, hks s-afr, and hks evc V. will that do without the 550cc injector and lex afm?

When PT had mine, I asked Tom which trim would be best. He said the 60 trim because its the same price and will put out more power. I guess there may be a slight bit more lag with the 60 trim, but if so, it isnt much. I have very little lag. As far as the Walbro, Lex AFM and 550s go, that depends on how much boost you plan on running.

[Nick T.]

didn't u run 12.1 @ 113mph with the upgraded ct-26?
------------------------------------------------------
Yes it was me.

Used the .57 trim to do it. The best MPH I did was 116.

I believe the .57 trim is plenty big for the CT26.
The 57 trim in a real T4 comp housing is capable of making a lot more
power than the CT26 housing will ever allow it to do.
The exhaust side on the CT is the limiting factor.
Not the .57 comp wheel.

.60 trim will make a little more top end, and higher peak dyno numbers.
But dyno numbers don't always make the car faster, the torque curve does.

The old saying is, HP sells cars and torque wins races.
How true.

People tend to forget, while your motor is winding up the other car has long gone and you will never make the ground up.


Nick T.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by Nick T.

People tend to forget, while your motor is winding up the other car has long gone and you will never make the ground up.


Nick T.

WERD. that's why i believe the ct-26 upgrade is such a lethal turbo especially when you're talking about just over the 1/4 mile where there is a limited distance.

I REALLY respect what you've been able to do with your ct-26 upgrade 12.1 e/t and best trap speed of 116mph is just AWSOME :).

[Nick T.]

Thanks, your times are good too.
Nice to find someone that is into drag racing.

For street and strip work the upgraded CT26 is a killer thing.

The turbo was 100% reliable. People that have had CT26 upgraded failures
should be looking for a new turbo workshop.


Nick T.

[rcdsupra]

Hey Nick,

Do you think it's possible to run a high 11 with a 60-1 and 275 BFG drag radials? My goal is to run a 11.99 with no nos and no slicks and a 5spd, just so I can say I hit High 11's with a CT26 and a 5spd. I think that MKIIISupraGuy is going for the same goal, and I will be in Vegas this year and hopfully It'll be there.

Ryan

[Boostin88T]

Join the group. I am slowly doing the same thing...Same Goal. I want to be the fastest no nitrous CT26.

[Nick T.]

Do you think it's possible to run a high 11 with a 60-1 and 275 BFG drag radials? My goal is to run a 11.99 with no nos and no slicks and a 5spd, just so I can say I hit High 11's with a CT26 and a 5spd. I think that MKIIISupraGuy is going for the same goal, and I will be in Vegas this year and hopfully It'll be there.

Ryan
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Yes, I believe a 11.9 is possible, 11.8 could/would be the perfect pass.
It's doable, if you get the right weather and track conditions.

You just need to work at it, a tenth here and a tenth there, it all adds up.
For me to get into the lower 12's took some work. I started from 13.7 and got it down to 12.1. Most of that was in the car set up, i.e. tyres & tyre pressure, gearing, (learning how to drive), dyno and road tuning. You need to do all of that in order to make everything come together on the day/night.

I was happy hanging on to that CT record/time for so long, one of you guys is going to knock it off soon and I am not going to able to do anything since I have now changed turbo set up.

Good luck guys.


Regards Nick T.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by Nick T.


The turbo was 100% reliable. People that have had CT26 upgraded failures
should be looking for a new turbo workshop.


Nick T.

WERD up bro :). that's the truth.

good luck to everyone on their ct-26 adventures. i'll be gunning for the 11's we'll see how it goes :)

[MrBoost]

Nick, don't you have the TRD engine? That would be a contributing factor when discussing CT-26 capability.

I agree with the group PT can't be beat for the cost nor the quality nor the speed of service.

[rcdsupra]

There will be 2 guys in the 11 by the end of this year with DR's not ET streets or slicks and no nos I promiss you, with stock motors me and MKIIISupraGuy are both going for 11's. Most likely 11.99 but hey We can say we got into the 11's

[Brian@7MPower]

Originally posted by GTXSupra

I will say this, I believe this upgrade doesnt even come alive until 12+ lbs of boost.

That is so true. I have a 60-1 w/11 degree clip (don't know where it was done, it was passed bewtween t61supradean and supraspeedmk3, and then me). At 11 psi it seems to pull ok, but once I turn it up to 13 psi, it feels like a whole new car. I cant believe 2 psi would make that much of a difference but it does. I cant wait til I get 550s/lexus and am able to run 20psi. THEN, it will be time for some 245 drag radials on my sawblades ;).

[turbogate]

Is there a Clipping degree thats prefered in the Supra community, what would be the best for street use, i see from 10 degree to 14 degree on the 60-1 CT, if i understand right, the more clipping, the more lag you're likely to get?

Thanks

[1QwikMK3]

I would say 10 degrees is a good all around clip.

[sm623cc]

when is the 60 trim and 10 degree clip in its effiency range? and when is its limits? talking about 3" elbow back exhaust, intake, stock IC and fuel with walbro fuel pump.

[rcdsupra]

The turbo will really hit it when it's got 14 psi or about 1bar. That's when it is really efficient. Make sure you have a fcd or a AFPR to run it at that psi, if you don't you won't get upto 14psi you'll get around 12.

[sm623cc]

my clutch can hold up to 355 torque, i think they measure it at the flywheel. if i run 1 bar. will my clutch start slipping?

[1QwikMK3]

Originally posted by sm623cc
my clutch can hold up to 355 torque, i think they measure it at the flywheel. if i run 1 bar. will my clutch start slipping?

naw dood... seems to me clutches are rated way low, I was running a lil old trd clutch.. which If I am not mistaken is a stock pressure plate with a rps stage II disc... but I dunno I have heard alot of cobminations...anyway before I melted my engine I was pushing around 450hp 450tq on that clutch with 40k on it.. it was holding just fine.

[HamsMKIV]

I'm running a TO4E .60 compressor with a 14 degree clip. It's pretty laggy. It makes good boost at 3500 but doesnt hit hard until 4000. If I could do it again I would run a 10 degree. I think with a Defcon or a good elbow you dont need to clip, there's plenty of room for the exhaust to escape. Stick to the 10 degree.

Chris

[Cres-Supra]

does any one know PT toll free number?
i was wondering if PT can make up the garrett 62-1 trim with a garrett stage 3 turbine.
anyone whose got close connection with PT or anyone who can inquire this??
am talking about the upgrade that is offered by turbochargers in houston Tx

[rcdsupra]

I just got my turbo rebuilt from Majetic here in dallas and asked them if they could put the 62-1 wheel in the turbo and showed me that it would fit. But you have to shave so much off the turbo that it get hot fast and you have to upgrade the exhaust wheel. They told me that I should keep the 60-1 because the wheel alone in a t4 can produce over 500rwhp but the exhaust side won't support that much in our turbos, but the compressor housing will. So I'm going to go back and have my exhaust wheel upgraded to the stage 3 and if they can fit it the stage 5.

[Cres-Supra]

rcd supra
am trying to get to 11 sec with a ct 26 upgrade and so far i have not a slightest clue where to send my turbo for an upgrade and what kind of trim to have. i know most guys have gone with the 60-1 trim and doing low 12 sec. but the sweetest thing has landed at turbochargers but has not been proved to be reliable. they even offer a waranty for it. it is very tempempting 62-1 trim. oh well, let us know if you can fit a stage 3 or stage five with the 60-1 trim

[Crocket]

Ok, hope I don't get flamed here, but I gotta ask. Of the guys that have the upgraded CT-26s, which do they feel has more potential and works better with the CT-26 compressor housing? The 60-1 upgrade (a T04B from what I understand) or the 60 trim upgrade (a T04E from what I understand)? I know there are a couple experts here that can answer this.

Also, are there any upgrade-able turbine wheels we can add to the exhaust side of the CT-26, or is the housing just too small? How about BB center section, is this possible and if so who does it. Thanks,

Sonny

[bigdough666]

I know the BB center section is available. As far as I know, the BB center section helps the turbo spool even faster, which is good. But it's pricey, like $500 in some places. Also from what I've heard, the downside is, there aren't any replacement parts for them yet, so if the BB section goes out, it can't be replaced, the entire turbo has to be replaced. I've heard stories about this 62-1 upgrade but most guys I've talked to say it's a bunch of crap. They say that the stock housing can't handle anything bigger than the 60-1. But I'm not sure, I'd like to know more about it also.

I got my 60-1 with a 10 degree clip at Performance Techniques. Like everyone else, $475 and it only took like a week total. I have yet to put it on my car but I will soon. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[drjonez]

allrighty, @ crocket's request, here are my thoughts:

based on compressor maps, the 60-1 is a better match to the 7M- the map extends a bit farther than the 60 trim and should prove more flexable....

the CT itself does not have an upgradeable center section or turbine. most companies will off "clipping" of the turbine- a cheap solution to a greater problem. clipping the turbine allows it to flow more air @ the top end but it seriously messes w/the turbine's function and efficiency.....i wouldn't run a clipped turbine.

there are a zillion options when you switch over to the bolt on t3/t4 (a standard garrett t3/t4 w/a special turbine housing to bolt to the stock exhaust manifold, better known as the HK$ sport turbo or the sport turbo from SS). you can get a BB center section, choice of turbines and of course the myriad of compressors.

HTH....

[adjuster]

I think the goal is to see how much a STOCK housing CT-26 can make power wise, and ET wise.
The T4-T3 Sport turbo is not a CT-26 by any stretch of the imagination.
The upgrade from PT is well reccomended. JBL and others have mentioned this path. Seems that the key is improved exhaust flow, and more air past the AFM sensor (Back out the air screw, or buy a Lexus AFM and get some larger Injectors, or just turn up the pressure a bit with a AFPR.)
Either way, make sure you are not running lean.
I'm most likely going to go the T-3/T-4 route with the 62-1 housing, a spacer and the BB CHRA. Whoo Ya, that will be fun.
Of course, a modded CT-26 is like 1450.00 cheaper than the turbo I just described. (1600 is really more like it.)
Keep posting. this is interesting.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

guys my local track opens up in 2 weeks. i wouldn't call it local (3 hours away) but h.ell lot of people go :)

anyhow i just ordered my 255/50/16 BFG drag radials. I WILL be aiming for the 11's.

Man I can't wait. I'm gonna take my car out of storage this coming week and get it ready. I think sitting out the whole winter and not racing has gotten me a bit rusty. it'd suck if my car could hit 11's but i don't have the skillz anymore :p ;)

i'll let you guys know how it goes

[sm623cc]

whats the difference between a 60 trim and a 60-1 upgrade? im gettin my turbo upgrade to a 60 trim and 10 degree clipped exhaust turbine, so if i clip the exhaust side, it will decrease the life of the turbo?

[bikerchris]

Hey guys! I'm not sure if this post will be in the right spot but I believe I'll get a response from some folks who would know. I have started running SCCA autocross in my 89 turbo in SP class and can't do a turbo upgrade to stay within rules of the class, however, the fuel system and intake are open. What I would like to know is if the Lexus afm and 550s will benefit me at all running stock turbo? Will that make more boost? Should I just go with an SAFC? I want to get the most out of the rules for this class and although I would love to get the turbo upgraded... it would put me into street mod class. Give me some pointers if you can.
thanks

[rcdsupra]

I finally got my turbo back from majestic here in dallas. here is a pic

[rcdsupra]

Here's another of the 60-1 wheel.

[rcdsupra]

Here's the exhaust side:

[rcdsupra]

I have one more pic of the 10 degree clip on the wheel. They also told me that the wheel is pretty much the same thing as a stage 2 wheel and they can upgrade the exhuast wheel to a stage 3 and maybe a stage 5. I would love to have a CT26 with a stage 5 and a 60-1. The pic is a little blurry due to low comp for this site.

[Crocket]

How much did the turbo run you?

Sonny

[Crocket]

How much did the turbo run you?

Sonny

[rcdsupra]

It cost me $625 for the upgrade and the clip.. I wanted to do the upgrade locally, or I would've gone to Performance Techniques (PT). That's just the way I like to do things. It has a 6 month unlimited mile on it aswell. They had another one there that had a stage 3 wheel and a 57 trim, but it was a garrett turbo. The guy said that the customer should've but the 60-1 wheel, because my turbo will probably get more hp than his at the same boost.

[pmpaluda]

Honest question since I didn't see 1 comment regarding it... how many people running upgraded CT-26's are running the OEM IC?

[Bobbyfali]

Originally posted by chrisc
The quickest supra with a upgrade ct26 turbo was a guy with a 88 blue turbo supra. This was about 6 years ago in a turbo magizine. The article said that he was running 12.0 at 115 mph with stock injectors and 15psi of boost, with 315 35 17 on the rear. This is what got me looking at the mk111 supra's. I bought one about a month later and I still have it.

Yes I remember that. I was looking all over for that mag. I had it and couldn't find it (think wife threw it out years ago). I remember it was called "black beauty" (It was black not blue). That is what you call BANG FOR THE BUCK!. And this guy did this I beleive back in 95 or so!

Thanks

Bobby Ali

BA

[1QwikMK3]

Originally posted by pmpaluda
Honest question since I didn't see 1 comment regarding it... how many people running upgraded CT-26's are running the OEM IC?

I was running the stock IC with my upgraded ct.

[pmpaluda]

until...

[GTXSupra]

Originally posted by pmpaluda
Honest question since I didn't see 1 comment regarding it... how many people running upgraded CT-26's are running the OEM IC?

I guess I should have posted it in my evaluation, but I have the stock IC and hoses.......including BOV.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by Bobbyfali
Yes I remember that. I was looking all over for that mag. I had it and couldn't find it (think wife threw it out years ago). ..........
It's a March 1997, 'Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance' issue.

I can scan it for you, if you'd like.

Cheers.......Sdude.

[1QwikMK3]

Originally posted by pmpaluda
until...


My turbo self destructed....and I went to a TO4

I ran as much as 15psi through the stock ic...and honestly there wasn't much of a difference in the seat of the pants meter from 11 psi to 15 psi.. my car would seem to be pretty fast in the morning when it was cool.. but when it warmed up, there was a noticable drop in power.. think the stock ic may have contributed to this.. it is inefficient cooling wise.. it flows ok though.

[Shawndude]

I scanned that magazine, with the 12.09/116.5 mph CT26 Supra article.

I made a new thread for it, so more people can see it:

http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114531

Cheers.....Sdude.

[Nick T.]

Killer car and nice set up.

[Shawndude]

I asked NickT a question regarding his CT-57 turbocharger, and he gave me a very detailed and usefull answer. I will post it here, for others to benefit from it, as well:

_________________
Shawndude Question:

........ I was curious about your CT-26/57 trim turbo.

Do you have the exhaust clipped? If so, how many degrees?

How does it spool compared to stock turbo, in regards to the RPM range from your experience?

...........

___________
NickT answer:

...... I did have the exhaust clipped about 8-10%, it really spooled up well. I thought it would be bad but it really was good.

It would spool up only two three hundred revs less but as soon as it started to pull from down lower in the revs it was better than the standard CT26 was.

The standard CT has problems (holding boost) over 15PSI and power drops off in the higher rpm. The modified CT is a really nice turbo on the 7MGTE, excellent modification, trust me, it will not make your car a pig to drive.

Tell the truth you would probably not even notice the bottom end change being so small.

Inlet size, .57 is as big as I would go, .60 is just to big and that will make bottom end bad.
______________

NickT's new website link is: www.turbosupras.com

Once again, thanks Nick, for describing the changes so clearly.

:bigthumb:

[Turbo_World_Order]

its probably a stupid question but don't we have an internal wastegate? one of the MKIV guys that formally owned revolutions told me that once, MKIIISUPRAGUY should know who i am talking about. does that somehow get affected in anyway when you get the upgrade on the turbo?

[rcdsupra]

Yes. Our wastegate is built into the turbo buy the exhaust wheel and has an actuator to controll it buy the front side of the turbo. There are pics posted of my turbo on here on this same page to see both of them.

[Turbo_World_Order]

so what happens to the wastegate when u get the upgrade? is it able to support a lot of psi?

[rcdsupra]

There are alot of people that have run over 20spi with the wastegate, after I get my fuel pump in I will when I race for sure.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

just pulled 12.061 @ 115.59 mph

:)

http://www.geocities.com/mkiiisupraguy/FastestRuns.html

[rcdsupra]

Congrats man!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's just great, the elbow and the BFG DR's look like they really helped with your times. The BFG's at the start with a great 1.8 60' and the elbow with the top end. Quickest time yet for a upgraded CT26. Were you running the usual 21psi and race gas for the run? or more? You'll be in the 11's in no time. Just make sure that if you run anything lower than a 11.90 you have to get a cage. Anyways great run and keep it up with that 5 spd.

[rcdsupra]

Just read on the other thread 22 psi and race gas. Just looked here first.

[orvacian]

I just had Performance Techniques do a 50 trim upgrade on my ct26 with a 10 deg clip. After I talked to the tech there I decided against the 60-1. The reason was that he said the 60-1 is not in its efficency range until 18-20psi. Are any of you really running 20psi? The 50 trim reduces lag time and makes the car more predictable on the street. The 60-1 seems to build boost later and it comes on harder making your car difficult to control when cornering under power and other onroad situations. The only benefit I can see from the 60-1 is for drag racing. I could be wrong but I am thinking that most people get the 60-1 just because it's the "biggest and baddest", not because of the actual performance OVERALL. I am not saying the 60-1 is not better, I was just wondering about peoples reasons for going one way or another. I think sometimes people get all hung up on dyno numbers and 1/4 mile times trying to prove how their car is faster then the other guy, and forget that their car gets driven 99% on the street. I am not talking trash on anybody, just for discussion.

[flubyux2]

I like what the last guy said. i want some good overal performance. Im not lookin for a turbo thats gonna make peak power at 6000 rpm. i want a nice torque curve that rises relatively soon (not too soon, i want to get off the w/ SOME tread left) and levels off and STAYS up there till the end ratehr than something that tapers off. so, if my torque curve is more like a plateau, ill be happy... and ill have GREAT pull no matter where i am in the RPM range and thats what i really need for a street driven car.

would a .57 trim get the job done... im thinking i dont need a 60 or even a 60-1 wheel... im not lookin for all out, im just lookin for maybe 300-350 RWHP w/ good delivery... i dnot want something that is peaky and has to be wound out to get it to go.

PT turbos sounds like the people to talk to. Can we basically get any upgraded wheel we want if we send in our turbo for $475? what all does that "Upgrade" entail? Just a new wheel and bored out housing, or does it include new oil seals, wick bearings, thrust bearings, O-rings, dynamic high-speed balancing, etc?

[JSupra91T]

Does PT offer the ct26 upgrades new? I dont want to send mine in because i dont have a spare and this is my daily driver, so i heard that i can call them and they will send me one already upgraded. Is this true? If so does anyone have a price?

[bahraini_zupra]

Hi guys i would like to send my ct to the PT SHOP so please someone could give me a full info adress about this shop phone , fax , or site ..
thanks

[rcdsupra]

I like what the last guy said. i want some good overal performance. Im not lookin for a turbo thats gonna make peak power at 6000 rpm. i want a nice torque curve that rises relatively soon (not too soon, i want to get off the w/ SOME tread left) and levels off and STAYS up there till the end ratehr than something that tapers off. so, if my torque curve is more like a plateau, ill be happy... and ill have GREAT pull no matter where i am in the RPM range and thats what i really need for a street driven car.

We're still talking about the CT26 right??? There are many people that have the 60-1 and get great response from the turbo. In a post MKIIISupraGuy said that he reaced a BPU MK3 with the stock turbo and it got him by like a car and by the time they hit 2nd he was 2 cars ahead I belive. I just got my 60-1 and the guy said at Majestic that it will give me a big jump even at 8 psi and really comes to effiency around 13psi. The CT26 spools fast and if you get an upgraded ct26you must have other upgrades, and that will help you spool up faster. Like a Lightwieght flywheel, 3" elbow dp and exhaust, or electric fans and if you have it a lightwieght driveshaft. I have the Fidanza and don't plan on the spool any slower than the stock.

Shoot even Trent had a SS turbo with the sam 60-1 wheel but with a stage 5 exhaust which is much bigger than stock and has more lag and starting boosting at 2800rpm and the stock CT starts at 2500rpm. So if you guys are wanting some power with quick spoolup then get the 60 trim or 60-1 with a clip if you like, because even with your little 50 trims you'll probably get all the supporting mods needed for the 60-1.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

the spool between the 50 trim and 60-1 is negligble as long as these compressors are in the upgraded ct-26. The 60-1 and 10 degree clip allows the ct-26 to have major top end while still spooling FAST. this is one fast spooling turbo, as soon as I hook up boost buils and I'm GONE.

With street tires it's almost ridiculous. With 255/50/16 Kumho Ecsta Supras, I'll spin through 1st gear, sideways and spin through all 2nd gear, and spin hard in 3rd. it's pretty ridiculous. Kinda dangerous if you ask me. so take a chill pill :)

our cars can be insane street monsters with these little upgraded turbos. just have the supporting mods and tune well. the thing that I'm most impressed with is that I race DSM with T4 and RED turbos (if you know anything about DSM's you'll know these are huge turbos for the 4G63 motor) at the track and on the high end we are dicing back and forth with me edging them in 4th gear. VERY impressive for a little upgraded turbo :)

[bahraini_zupra]

guys please i need info about that PT SHOP !?
so please need info ..

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Originally posted by SUPRA_NO1
guys please i need info about that PT SHOP !?
so please need info ..

www.turbocharged.com

Performance Techniques
346 South "I" Street Unit 3
San Bernardino, CA 92410
Phone: 909.824.1020
FAX: 909.381.5683


:)

[bahraini_zupra]

THANKS (KISS)

[NashMan]

Originally posted by Shawndude
I asked NickT a question regarding his CT-57 turbocharger, and he gave me a very detailed and usefull answer. I will post it here, for others to benefit from it, as well:

_________________
Shawndude Question:

........ I was curious about your CT-26/57 trim turbo.

Do you have the exhaust clipped? If so, how many degrees?

How does it spool compared to stock turbo, in regards to the RPM range from your experience?

...........

___________
NickT answer:

...... I did have the exhaust clipped about 8-10%, it really spooled up well. I thought it would be bad but it really was good.

It would spool up only two three hundred revs less but as soon as it started to pull from down lower in the revs it was better than the standard CT26 was.

The standard CT has problems (holding boost) over 15PSI and power drops off in the higher rpm. The modified CT is a really nice turbo on the 7MGTE, excellent modification, trust me, it will not make your car a pig to drive.

Tell the truth you would probably not even notice the bottom end change being so small.

Inlet size, .57 is as big as I would go, .60 is just to big and that will make bottom end bad.
______________

NickT's new website link is: www.turbosupras.com

Once again, thanks Nick, for describing the changes so clearly.

:bigthumb:


humm mine new tubro that is being made is not fully like nick's but wee diffent i just did not clip at all cause the 57 trim shoudl hold boost at higher rpm that just really the wheel doing most of all the work

ps i put liek hole week learing about turbo and flows maps and there not fun to learn much but int eh end what i thought best was to4e 57 trim with no clip caise the gains whould be lost i want turq not hp and that what clipping does you loose turq

[ONyX]

I had mine done at PT got t back about a week ago, Im lovin it. I havnt pushed it hard yet 12psi is as high as ive hit, Im waiting for my 550s (wich are in i just have to go get them this weekend) I went with the 60-1 w/ 10degree clip. Its like 2 different worlds compared to the stocker, now i need a elbow and DP or the defcon. The guys at PT were great fast service and a killer price. 475.00 :beerchug: Ill post some 1/4 times hopefully next weekend if i get it all together and to the track.

:D

[HamsMKIV]

I just wanted to add my experience with the CT-26. I was running the CT-26 with a 60-1 and 14 degree clip while the car was still automatic. The turbo was not laggy and pulled hard to 6000 easily. I then decided to have a new wheel installed so that I could drop to a 10 degree clip..... While I was waiting for the rebuild I drove my car for a couple of weeks on my backup spare stock CT-26... What a mundane experience that is.... the stock CT-26 is so boring compared to the upgrade. I finished my 5 speed swap in 8 days, and that includes pulling the drivetrain out of my 88.... I'm running my new CT-26 60-1 with a 10 degree clip..... What a difference. The turbo hits REALLY hard from 3000-5500 and still pulls really hard up through 6500. I am very impressed with the performance on the 10 degree clip and like it better than the 14. I would definitely recommend to others to run a 10 degree clip. The 14 seems too agressive and makes the turbo laggy. I feel the 10 degree is an excellent tradeoff.

To those who feel the 60-1 is too much, you are mistaken. My boost response is terrific. I run my turbo regulated to 16 psi right now and I'm considering running 20 psi. The motor has more than enough torque out of boost to pull itself up to 3000 RPM where it starts to hit.

MKIIISupraGuy gave me great insight on the proper modifications to make to my car. I know wihout a doubt I have a 12 second car. It's pulls so strong it's just simply amazing. I absolutely love the startled look on people's faces when they discover what my MKIII will do. The CT-26 is a strong turbo and one of the best upgrades I've made. Hats off to you MKIIISupraGuy, I really appreciate all your advice.


Chris

[OOBE]

Hmmm I did not want to post until I read ALL the replies...so here goes mine. In two weeks I'm going back home (P.R.) to finish off turbocharging my Celica. I bought a T3/TO4E from PT and they said it was going to be fine...well...the compressor was TOO big and I couldn't close the hood...and the exhaust wheel was Stage V...there's no way my automatic Celi was going to move that...so I changed the compressor section to .60 T3/TO4B and traded the .63 Stage V housing for a Stage III .48. Can I have that TO4E fitted to my CT26? If not, I'll just pay those $475 to get my upgraded CT26. My mods are HKS Power-Flo intake, HKS 3" downpipe, 3" test pipe and 3" Jasma RS cat-back exhaust. I'm using PVC intercooler piping and I have shimmed the wastegate with 5 washers...when I nail it, the car hits fuel cut :( Also, the car feels horribly slow...can it be my clutch? I need insight onthis...I'm general turbo savvy...not Supra savvy :(

[bahraini_zupra]

WHATS the maximized psi you can run without blowing your stock gasket !?

[ma71supraturbo]

Originally posted by SUPRA_NO1
WHATS the maximized psi you can run without blowing your stock gasket !?

http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76541&highlight=head+gasket

[flubyux2]

does anyone know why there arent any Efficiency numbers on the islands of the 60-1 compressor map???

ive never been able to find out what the deal is w/ that and why there are Efficiency numbers on EVERY other map except the 60-1... is it cuz the 60-1 has unusually low efficiency when comppared to the rest of the wheels?

btw, i dont think its boost that kills the HG... its the detonation brought on by excessive boost that kills the HG. you could probably run 20 psi on a stock HG everyday as long as you had the proper fuel/tuning and kept detonation in check.

[NashMan]

cliping is gay my turbo is not cliped and it 57 i will find otu where i get full boost they say i get full boost around 2300 or so and will pull tell red line


but we will see ps i have soe mods done to my turbo that most of you guys don't

[Boostin88T]

Originally posted by NashMan
cliping is gay

:fruit: :fruit: :fruit: :fruit:

I think that the link to perf tech is down that someone posted up top, can someone post it one more time for all of us. Thanks.

[Shawndude]

HamsMKIII, I would like to applaud you for giving us such a nice description of your turbocharger performance observations.

Posts like yours are very valuable to people who are hashing over which direction to go in, with the CT-26.

Your time writing it, is appreciated.

:bigthumb:

______

Can someone elaborate on the low end power characteristics of the 60-1/10 degree clip (which seems to be the most popular way to go).

In particular, I would be interested how the performance compares to the stock unit, while cruising in a hilly area.

The stock turbocharger makes hills "dissapear", as once you start driving up an incline around 2500-3000 RPM, the boost kicks in "automatically" and you float effortlessly up the hill without pressing any further on the accelarator pedal.

Sorry for the goofy explanation, but I think it illustrates how it performs.

What happens to the 60-1/10 degree unit, under these conditions? Do you need to work (depress) the throttle a lot more? Do you need to downshift, to bring the RPMS over the 3000 mark?

Any input as always is appreciated.

Thank you....Sdude.

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by Shawndude
[B]HamsMKIII, I would like to applaud you for giving us such a nice description of your turbocharger performance observations.

Posts like yours are very valuable to people who are hashing over which direction to go in, with the CT-26.

Your time writing it, is appreciated.

:bigthumb:

Sdude,
thanks for the kind words.... I forgot to add that the REAL reason I sent my upgraded CT-26 back was because the accordian pipe that runs between the AFM and compressor inlet was cracked... the crack was small but enough to suck in dirt and score the center section bearings :( Anyway.... I went with a 14 degree clip the first time but realized quickly that it was more than I need given that I had a Defcon DP.... the Defcon allows for rapid evacuation of exhaust gases and so the 14 degree was completely unnecessary. I have to admit that the turbo would absolutely scream from 4000 to redline. If you're looking for something that hits really hard up top like that, I guess the 14 degree is suitable.

IMO, the 10 degree is better suited for the 7M because it makes more useable power under the curve. Also, with my E-01, I can offset duty cycle with RPM's to limit the fall-off of the turbo at high RPM's.

To the gentleman above who says that clipping is gay.... You're turbo will certainly spool very quickly like that, but you will really limit your power above 5000. It really depends where you want your power, but a .57 unclipped will not pull like a 10 degree clipped .60... Also keep in mind that the R154 is geared such that once you get into boost, the next gear is spaced so that you're right back into boost again.... Basically you're turbo will be on the high end of it's useable boost curve with each new gear and honestly I feel bad because you'd loose to an identical setup as yours but with the right turbo. On the other hand, Clipping is just a trick to get around old technology... $450 for a rebuilt CT-26 is a lot cheaper than a new Garrett GT series turbo.


- Chris

[oncelost]

How much should I expect to pay for an upgraded Ct-26 straight up? I might be getting one from a friend, and he just had it upgraded.
Robert
My car is my daily driver, and I can't have down time and send my stock turbo off.

[oncelost]

I'm sorry, he got the 60-1, with 10deg clip.
any info would be greatly appreciated.
Robert

[HamsMKIV]

If you mean buying straight up, you're looking at paying $750 from PT. IF that's the case, I have my backup CT26 that's perfectly good I'll sell you for $200. Then you can pay PT to upgrade that for $450 and save yourself $100. I'm in Savannah, GA.

- Chris

[oncelost]

Thanks but I have the line on a couple for less than $150, I will send it off to PT.
Robert

[supra-g]

heres one for ya PT guys.....
i hear all good things about PT, what about negatives????
Or have they all been postive experiences dealing with PT?
From the look of all the write ups there have been none,
and no regrets....(which is always a good thing)
lmk
thanks
g

[supra-g]

oh yea there link dosent work.....
Does anyone know it by another address?
thanks again.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by supra-g
oh yea there link dosent work.....
Does anyone know it by another address?
thanks again.

Try this:

http://64.225.76.178/main.htm

[supra-g]

thanks shawndude,
theres not too much info on the site about pricing so
im ganna call them when the sun comes up///

[HamsMKIV]

Well I have my own personal story to tell about PT.... I sent them my turbo for upgrade. The first time around they charged $450 out the door for a 60-1 compressor wheel and 14 degree clip. I ran the turbo for about 3 weeks. I noticed i developed a lot of shaft play on my turbo one day while I was checking things over. I called them up and they told me to send it back. Well, once they received it and broke it down, they found that the center section bearings had a lot of scoring on them. They called me and asked if I was running the turbo open with no element because it was obvious sand or dirt had been sucked in... I told them "no" .. I checked my accordian pipe and found a 2" crack on it underneath, which was most likely the culprit. In the end, they rebuilt the turbo free of charge, and put a whole new wheel on... I even asked them to change to a 10 degree clip, which they obliged. My only out of pocket expense was the shipping to get it there and back.

I feel that PT is a stand-up company that stands behind their work. The only thing I would recommend is that when you send in your turbo, be sure to place a sheet of paper INSIDE the box that identifies you and what you want done to the turbo. They told me to do this after I sent it because they get so many turbo's and this helps them speed up the process.

Hope that helps.

- Chris

[Süprå-Zãçh2]

I feel pretty ignorant reading all of this, and naturally I'm getting a little confused... whats the a difference between a 60 trim and a 60-1, or is there a difference? And more importantly :p , how do you actually say 60-1: 60 to 1, 60 dash 1, etc...? Thanks, I've just never really delved into turbo upgrades before, this stuff is new to me....

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by Süprå-Zãçh2
I feel pretty ignorant reading all of this, and naturally I'm getting a little confused... whats the a difference between a 60 trim and a 60-1, or is there a difference? And more importantly :p , how do you actually say 60-1: 60 to 1, 60 dash 1, etc...? Thanks, I've just never really delved into turbo upgrades before, this stuff is new to me....

It's okay, I understand you're pain. I know there are lot of people on this board who would try to "WOW" you with their technical jargon and knowledge, but I will try to explain in easier terms. Different turbos have physically different characteristics to them. The compressor and exhaust housing might have slightly different shapes and most importantly they have different sizes. The .60 is the A/R and is a way to tell how large the compressor wheel is. The thing is that a .60 wheel in our CT-26 is larger than a .60 wheel in a T25 turbo.... The 60-1 wheel traditionally is found in a true T-04E compressor housing. That wheel is larger than the .60 compressor wheel that could be placed inside a stock CT-26. To accomplish this, a company such as Performance Techniques Bores out the inlet hole to accept the larger compressor wheel. Again, a traditional .60 wheel could be placed into the CT-26 without modification, but it is smaller than the T04-E's .60 wheel and has less flow capability.

What is the drawback? There's always drawbacks of course. The main issue is that placing such a large compresser wheel with an unchanged turbine side can cause an unbalance on the whole assembly. It can be assumed that this could cause upgrades like this to fail more quickly than an unmodified compressor wheel. I've seen some people claim that the modified CT26's last as short as 25,000 miles. The hard thing is that this failure is difficult to prove because of real world use.

Anyways, the T04-E 60-1 wheel is a vast improvement over the stock compressor wheel and even so against the .60 wheel for the CT26. I think the difference between the stock CT-26 compressor wheel is something like 2.2 inches versus the 60-1's 2.8 inches. Again, there's no need for a long drawn out technical discussion, but just know that an A/R number may be the same from one turbo family to the next ( A/R .60), but it doesn't mean they are physically the same size.

If you're looking to upgrade and call PT, just let them know you're interested in a "60 trim compressor wheel for a T04-E". They'll understand you.

Hope that helps.

- Chris

[Crocket]

Not that I'm the expert, but a 60-1 is the compressor wheel from a T04B, not a T04E as stated. If you want to go with the T04E wheel, then it's just called a 60 trim (or 57, 54 etc......). Supra Zach, read through all 5 pages on this thread really carefully. The first three pages or so have alot of good info on the different wheels and what you can expect out of them. Good luck,

Sonny

[HamsMKIV]

Sorry for the misinformation. I was simply trying to explain it in simple terms.

- Chris

[Süprå-Zãçh2]

Oh i read all 5 pages, and i totally undersand everything people are talking about as far as various trims and their affect on power and lag and other various factors... I was simply getting a little hung up on the difference between a "60 trim" and a "60-1" but i understand perfectly now. Thanks (Chris and Nash Bridges, err I mean Crocket) for the clarification and info, its greatly appreciated...

[MRSUPRA]

There is alot of good turbo information on JBLMK3.com. His charts show the differnt inducer and exducer sizes on many different turbos including the 60-1 and 60trim. It also has a good explanation what the inducer and exducer part of the wheel is. Something I did not understand until I looked on his website.

[MKIIISupraGuy]

go to www.jblmk3.com for the exact deminsions for each compressor.

i assume you're talking about the upgraded ct-26. both the 60 trim and 60-1 trims are good choices.

fyi, John Lunsford has done 440rwhp SAE with the 60 trim. I've done 12 sec flat with the 60-1 trim. again, both are great choices.

and yes the clip is only done to the exhaust wheel.

[paddlenbike]

Answer:


Stock CT26 ----Inducer - 1.811; Exducer - 2.559; avg. - 2.185

TO4E 60 TRIM - Inducer - 2.290; Exducer - 2.950; avg. - 2.62

TO4B 60-1 -----Inducer - 2.324; Exducer - 3.000; avg. - 2.662

So the 60-1 is quite simply a larger wheel. I am assuming that when a company such as PT does their $475 rebuild/upgrade, they replace the seals and simply slide a new compressor wheel onto the existing shaft. (??)

[Pearly Whites]

not only that, but when you get it back its spotless. i just got mine back yesterday from pt and i kills me to put the ugly heatsheild over that turbo, cuz it looks awesome now.

[TRD Charger + Propane]

I like to share the wealth so Go on ebay and get a new to4b for around 400 bucks. If you beat me out in a bidding war then the better man has won.

That's what I'm doing once I get My credit card debt lowerd.

Thanks for the posting I learnd a lot.

Kam

[Crocket]

Technically the 60-1 (t04B wheel) can flow a little more than the 60 trim (T04E). But the 60 trim is a little more efficient for most of the map. Check the turbonetics compressor maps for each and see which is more important for you.

SM

[paddlenbike]

I noticed that if you take the inducer measurement I posted above and multiply by 25.4 mm/inch you get the 'trim' of the turbo. For example, take a 2.230" inducer x 25.4 mm/in = 56.6, which rounds to a 57-trim. However, a TO4E 60-trim wheel has a 2.290" inducer and the same exducer as the 57-trim:

2.290 x 25.4 mm/in = 58.2.
So a 60-trim is really only a 58 trim?

A 60-1 is 2.324 x 25.4 mm/in = 59.0; or a 59-trim?

So the remaining question is how are the inducer and exducer numbers used to determine the trim of the turbo? My calcs above only take into account the size of the inducer. Obviously the exducer is an important consideration too.

[QWIKSTRIKE]

You are a little off there Crocket! The larger the turbo the bertter the efficiency! Read the flow maps and you will see that larger turbos have geater efficeincy! Smaller turbos just spool faster!
The problem is that to large a turbo will cause surgeing and loss of power! Thats why there are flow maps to chart efficiency!

[flubyux2]

yea, efficiency, but why cant i find a 60-1 map w/ actual efficiency numbers on it??? wtf?

[ma71supraturbo]

Originally posted by paddlenbike
I am assuming that when a company such as PT does their $475 rebuild/upgrade, they replace the seals and simply slide a new compressor wheel onto the existing shaft. (??)

The housing is also bored out to accomodate the larger wheel

[Brian@7MPower]

Hrmm. I always thought 60-1 was to4e and 60 is to4b...

[Dominic]

I got mine done at PT also.

[flubyux2]

right, how bout those compressor maps for the 60-1???

anyhow, whats the power curve like compared between a 57 trim, 60 trim and 60-1? i cant figure out what one i want. i dont want something that is gonna make peak power at 5500 rpm, and is gutless everywhere else. i did some thinking and came to the conclusion, iw ant a big broad torque curve, where i dont have to downshift just to get the car moving...

and, what methods are there to getting more life out of upgraded turbos??? are they not being balanced well enough and just shake themselves apart?

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by flubyux2
right, how bout those compressor maps for the 60-1???

anyhow, whats the power curve like compared between a 57 trim, 60 trim and 60-1? i cant figure out what one i want. i dont want something that is gonna make peak power at 5500 rpm, and is gutless everywhere else. i did some thinking and came to the conclusion, iw ant a big broad torque curve, where i dont have to downshift just to get the car moving...

and, what methods are there to getting more life out of upgraded turbos??? are they not being balanced well enough and just shake themselves apart?

Hey guy,
I'm not trying to bust chops here, but I hear everyone complaining and worried that the 60-1 CT-26 will spool like a T88 or something. Even the most aggressive CT-26 will still spool at 3000 RPM and make power from there to redline. Quit thinking like this a monster turbo because it isnt. I'm running the 60-1 compressor now and it's hitting full boost by 3000 and pulls crazy to 6500.... Honestly, my upgrade spools faster than it ever did in stock trim... The exhaust housing isn't large enough to make it really spool slowly. You won't have to downshift as long as you're around 3000 RPM's. Get what you want, but I'm telling you, this turbo will spool fast no matter what compressor wheel you put in it.

- Chris

[supra-g]

has anyone done their ceramic coating?
PT has that option available......
g

[supra-g]

hey hams....
you got the turbo on the auto right?
or did you swap it into the 5sp?
wait......you swaped trans right.......
so tell me the difference that the turbo made with the swap.....
just curious......
g

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by supra-g
hey hams....
you got the turbo on the auto right?
or did you swap it into the 5sp?
wait......you swaped trans right.......
so tell me the difference that the turbo made with the swap.....
just curious......
g

I did swap trannies. After completing all my upgrades, the auto lasted about one weekend. I didn't feel like spending $4000 to build a tranny that would hold. Instead I bought a parts car, rebuilt the tranny in it, bought a RPS Stage III, an AMS FMIC and hardpipes, and still had money left over.

There isn't much difference in WHERE the turbo hits. The one thing I like though is that I dont have to downshift. I can just roll into the power because the auto rearend keeps the revs up no matter what gear I'm in. I'm never more than 500 rpm from where the turbo hits hard. I get full boost at 3000 btw.

Overall I am much happier as a 5 speed.

- Chris

[turbogate]

One of the things holding me back from sending PT my turbo, is the fact that some people after they sent their Turbo to them, were advised that the price was $700+ because of some worn parts etc, I dont want to Pay that much for an upgrade, i would rather save some more to get an Hybrid in that case, I wonder what happens if i decide not to pay $700 after they already have my turbo, would they send me back my turbo re-assembled the way i sent it operational? has that happened to anyone? i e-mailed them, but they didnt respond. I know i would probably pay some diagnosis fee, but im not sure whats their policy on that, especially i just read that you have to pre-pay them.

thanks

[supra-g]

i would think that a respectable company would
call you first before they replace anything, not do
it and then say, o we need to charge more cause
of parts replaced. but you shouldnt be upgrading something
that is worn out to begin with.....
should be replaced just like you said
g

[HamsMKIV]

Originally posted by turbogate
One of the things holding me back from sending PT my turbo, is the fact that some people after they sent their Turbo to them, were advised that the price was $700+ because of some worn parts etc, I dont want to Pay that much for an upgrade, i would rather save some more to get an Hybrid in that case, I wonder what happens if i decide not to pay $700 after they already have my turbo, would they send me back my turbo re-assembled the way i sent it operational? has that happened to anyone? i e-mailed them, but they didnt respond. I know i would probably pay some diagnosis fee, but im not sure whats their policy on that, especially i just read that you have to pre-pay them.

thanks

Often times worn parts are located on the hot side. The exhaust housing has a tendency to crack near the wastegate port... If you pull your elbow, you can take a look in there and see if there's anything obvious. It will be outwardly obvious you know... Anyways, PT is a good company and they will call you and let you know if something is up prior to doing any work... I think they do charge like $50 to break it down and inspect it, so I would assume in a case like you described, you'd be responsible for just that part. If you're turbo is working okay now without the blades crashing into the compressor housing, you're probably in okay shape. I'd just make sure your hot side is okay... If you see a crack, then dont bother.

Chris

[turbogate]

One last question, that $475 that PT Charges, is that with Shipping included, or is that the Clients responsability? and If im the one who has to pay for shipping, what should i expect to pay for shipping?
Thanks

[supra-g]

i think that it is just for the work.....
shipping would depend on where you are,

[HamsMKIV]

My shipping was like $18 each way insured.

That price is just for the labor and parts.

- Chris

[derK]

57 trim and 60 trim is from the TO4e right???? and the 60-1 is from the TO4b??? Just say i decide to get the 57 trim, TECHNICALLY would my turbo last longer than say a 60-1 because of the wheel size and such??? Also how much of a difference is there from a 57 trim and a 60-1 trim???

Thanks, Derek

[RiGo]

Originally posted by derK
57 trim and 60 trim is from the TO4e right???? and the 60-1 is from the TO4b??? Just say i decide to get the 57 trim, TECHNICALLY would my turbo last longer than say a 60-1 because of the wheel size and such??? Also how much of a difference is there from a 57 trim and a 60-1 trim???

Thanks, Derek

[drifterma71]

I am aware this is off topic , but I know one of you guys would be able to answer this. Suppose a 7M-GTE had the same mods, you know Lexus AFM, 550,DP, Cat-back, boost controller, etc. How would it be faster in terms of acceleration from the hole, the upgraded CT-26 to a 57 trim or the Sport Turbo(Hybrid) offered by Suprasport with a Stage 3 Turbine and 57 trim on the compressor side.
Sorry again for being off topic
Thanx in advance :cool:

[s000pra89T]

Originally posted by derK
57 trim and 60 trim is from the TO4e right???? and the 60-1 is from the TO4b??? Just say i decide to get the 57 trim, TECHNICALLY would my turbo last longer than say a 60-1 because of the wheel size and such??? Also how much of a difference is there from a 57 trim and a 60-1 trim???

Thanks, Derek

First off, good sticky. :bigthumb:

Second, I would like to know this too.... :D

[808turbomk3]

So is everybody using a wet cartridge or dry? I assume since our CT-26 is antifreeze cooled evryone retained it? The reason I'm asking is HPF is selling the new 60-1 W/Q Trim with the cartridge being dry as standard. By the way what is W/Q Trim is it the same as the 10 degree clip?
I have the same problem, I don't want a down time so I'm thinking new here, Horse Power Freaks price seems to be in the same Ball Park since the whole Turbo is Brand New!

[adjuster]

I think the reason HPF is using the dry housing is thrust bearing failure problems on the wet non BB housings.
With the BB, you don't have to worry, they don't fail very often due to thrust bearing issues.
On the stocker, of course you would want to retain the coolant. It keeps your turbo healty longer by reducing the amount of oil coking.
Just run synthetic oil, and you won't have any of that either. BUT, get ready for the leaks.
I have a SS Stage V, BB but have yet to get the car running yet.

[p5150]

adjuster - I might be down to visit my buddy in boise - Id like to check out your car once you get that installed.

[fstlane88]

ok say i got a completely stock 87 turbo and wanted to do a CT-26 upgrade, would it be safe to do, on a stock engine, how much boost could i safely run. or if i had a 3" DP, 3" TP and 3" exhaust with a boost controller, and a K&N FIPK. about how much could i run with those upgrades. just trying to decide what the first modification i do to my car should be.

[rcdsupra]

fstlane86,

The first thing that I would do is either get the intake and full exhaust or get a MHG for the car. The stock hg has a bad problem with boost. once you get the breathing mods done with a mhg then get the ct upgraded. But make sure you get some fuel mods right after so you don't run lean.

[rcdsupra]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I think that we've talked about this already but the 60-1 wheel is what I went with because it will flow more air. When you upgrade the CT26 you change a lot of stuff and either way the 57 or 60-1 won't last as long as a stock turbo. You will get more top end power with the 60-1 and that's what I wanted.

[rcdsupra]

Sorry about the quote thing

[808turbomk3]

Just got mine back from Performance Technics, 60-1 with 10 degree clip. They are really fast, I was squeezing and hoping nothing was wrong with the turbo, so all in all $475 for the upgrade and $65 for the UPS shipping.

[flubyux2]

i think ive decided to go with a 60-1 upgrade and a 10 degree clip. but i think i have monster crackes on my exhaust housing, does anyone know about how much 'new' housings run? i dont think PT will rebuild mine w/ a shot housing.

also, are there any long term problems... or i guess, does upgrading to a wheel as big as a 60-1 affect the longevity/life span of the turbo?? Id like mine to last a little longer than 25k miles.

[djfenixx]

Ok, i'm new to this turbo thing, and i have just obtained a CT26 for free. it has about 50-60K on it, and there is little to no play in the shaft. i am planning on putting this on my 2001 Neon R/T. you may laugh now...no seriously, go ahead..............ok, now that that's out of the way, i was wondering what the stock specs are on this turbo...what is the minimum and max amount of boost that i can run...i am looking to do between 5-7, 9 max psi. i am running on stock internals, and i do not want to lower compression. any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks!

[Bishop92T]

djfenixx:
Stock CT-26 gets out of it's efficiency range ~15psi. It can run about 20psi safely. I ran mine at 23psi for a few months before it started to smoke.

It will probably induce quite a bit of lag on your Neon but should add quite a kick. It's not exactly a well designed turbo, it's based on very old technology. But it's huge compared to most stock turbos. I'd be interested to see what results you get, keep us updated or at least me :)


flubyux2:
No idea on the housing cost, an no they will not rebuild a cracked turbo.

The larger the wheel you put in, the less life you will get out of the turbo. The bigger wheels put more forces on the shaft and prematurely wear it. If you want maximum life, put on a 57 trim wheel with a clipped exhaust wheel.

[djfenixx]

lag was a concern of mine...mainly because the powerband doesn't really kick in until 3000rpm...but maybe with as quickly as it spools, it might not do that bad. I'll definately keep you posted. my stock r/t is putting about *snicker* 150whp to the ground, and 132ft lb...don't know if that will give you more of an idea on how much lag i could be expecting. i will say that i was taking a closer look at the turbo last night, and i noticed some black stuff/oil? in the compressor side housing. could this mean that the turbo is gone? i was planning on a rebuild anyway, who does good rebuilds? also, at what psi does the wastegate open on this creature? Thanks for all your help and if anyone has questions on a neon (why i don't know) i'll do my best to answer them. :dj:

also, how does this compare to a 16G?

[Bishop92T]

It's hard to say how much lag you are going to encounter. It is a fairly large housing for a 4 cylinder. Displacement and compression are going to have the biggest effects on your spool time.

Try to wiggle the wheel side to side and in/out of the turbo. There should be a small amount of play side to side but none in/out. Oil does into the intake side of the turbo quite easily, usually from the previous owner's PCV system. So long as you don't have excessive shaft play it will be fine. Also look for cracks around the wastegate flap. www.turbonetics.com (PT) rebuilt and upgraded my turbo, they have a good reputation with the Supra community.

Wastegate opens at around 10psi. With a high-pressure drop intercooler you will only see ~7psi at the manifold, I.E. the motor would be running on 7psi.

CT-26 is larger then a 16G, the wheel in the CT-26 is almost the same size as a 20G.

[djfenixx]

and if there is a smidge of movement in and out is it shot? or should i be ok for awhile, what does it mean if ther is movement in and out? as far as the 20G they sell a kit for 00+ neons that has either a 16 or 20, its up to you. i just hope i am not loosing much bottom end performance by doing this. i want to be able to atleast chirp my tires when i start sometimes...i don't want to always be playing catch-up. i want to thank you though, you have been a tremendous help..and your car is ducking awesome!...so after i get all of this pooo installed on my neon, i will need guages to keep an eye on everything. what brand/kind of guages should i get? and how important is it for me to get a turbo timer? thanks again for everything, i'm really learning a lot!:bigok:

[Bishop92T]

Well I wouldn't say the turbo is shot, but it certainly is not a good thing. The bearings that hold the turbo from wobbling side to side are a lot more forgiving then the in/out bearings.

If the 20G induces a lot of lag you are going to get a similar result from the CT-26. CT-26 will probably spool a hair quicker.

GReddy, HKS, A'PEXi, Blitz and some of the expensive AutoMeter gauges are highly accurate. Search around the web and figure out which one is in your price range or that you like the looks of.

Turbo timer is very convenient. If you don't mind sitting in the car for 2-3 minutes everytime after you drive it then you won't need one. You need to let the turbo and oil cool down before shutting off the car or the turbo will die an early death.

[djfenixx]

i've been reading on here about that 60 trim/10 degree clip, if i would get this done, would that fix my problem? I mean, do they replace the whole shaft and bearings, or just the fins? also, as far as lag, (you're prolly getting sick of me asking), basically when i start from the line will my car act like it used to, then the boost kicks in, or would it be like pookey, pookey, pookey.....woosh? :scratch:

[Bishop92T]

The 60 trim involves dissasembling the entire turbo and replacing all the bearings and bushings. A new intake wheel is put on and the exhaust wheel is trimmed 10 degrees to make it hold boost better. You certainly do not want a 10 degree clip if you're going for quick spool. If you want quick spool, just stick with a stock rebuild.

Your car will be a little slower off the line then it was, simply because all your exhaust gasses are being forced through the turbo. It's like having a clogged cat on the system. Once boost hits though the whole car's attitude will change. Once you get spooled up you just have to shift quickly to keep the turbo going and you'll have no problems. Taking off in 1st gear is the only waiting time. At any other time you can use the gears to get the turbo to spool up quicker, I.E. downshift to get higher revs to spool quicker.

[djfenixx]

awesome, thanks for the info. i'll keep you posted on what i find out. :bigthumb:

[bcastine]

I would think with the neon you would get decent spool with a stock ct. The mr2 used the ct-26(i believe a slightly smaller version) so its been used on a 2.0 before. Also your 7200 rpm redline not gonna hurt either and I would guess due to compression(which isn't all that high for a n/a what is it 9.6 to 1) you won't be running crazy boost. I would think you could spool to 10 psi by 4k rpms on the neon. If the turbo has in and out shaft movement thats not good, a little side to side is ok as long as the wheel doesn't hit the housing.

[bahraini_zupra]

arghhhhhhhhh i want to upgrade my ct26 but my country is very far away the hole turbo ready made from turbonitecs they says the shipping will cost only 450$ !!!!!!!!! without the price of the turbo !LOL
does anyone got upgraded ct wanna sell it ?
plz help arghhhhhh !

[bahraini_zupra]

for that so i need to order for the items needed for the upgrade trims bearings etc ... so whats the neccecary items to be ordered ?
i'll do everything on my turbo .

[BOOSTTIP]

Originally posted by MKIIISupraGuy
no plm bro :). make sure you tune that's key. Hehe my closest track is 1 hour 30 minutes away. when i ran my first 12 second run I had to drive 3 hours to get to the track :). just depends on how much u love to race.

it'd just be nice to see what others have done with this little turbo.

for the record I believe John Lunsford and Matt Talbert have the highest hp dyno numbers at 440rwhp SAE and 450rwhp SAE respectively. Matt's also been able to do a 12.3 @ 111mph (?) and I think that's just AWSOME. I think a dude in australia has done 12.1 with slicks, built auto, etc. That might be the official 1/4 mile record for the ct-26 turbo. I have the fastest 5 speed that I know of. If you know differently then let us all know :).

What are your mods besides upgraded ct26?
vnt

[MkayIII]

I just finished readin through 7 pages of replies! We've got some good informations here folks. Keep em comin in!

So far i'm leaning towards the CT-26/57 trim turbo upgrade.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by flubyux2
yea, efficiency, but why cant i find a 60-1 map w/ actual efficiency numbers on it??? wtf?

http://www.majesticturbo.com/images/20177-lr.jpg

High quality flow maps: http://www.majesticturbo.com/compression.html

Online engine/compressor map calculator :http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html

[Stenno]

Shawn,

Those maps are based around the compressor and the compressor cover to suit (2.324" inducer, 3" exducer), so it may be somewhat 'in-accurate' if used to work out the efficiency of a 60-1 trimmed wheel inside a CT26 compressor cover.

Either way the 60-1 wheel works wonders in a CT26.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by Stenno
Shawn,

Those maps are based around the compressor and the compressor cover to suit (2.324" inducer, 3" exducer), so it may be somewhat 'in-accurate' if used to work out the efficiency of a 60-1 trimmed wheel inside a CT26 compressor cover. The compressor housing, is basically nothing more than a diffuser. It takes the high speed low pressure air and slows it down without turbulence, to create high pressure (boost) slower moving airflow.

The only change between a larger diffuser (compressor housing) and a smaller one is restriction. It will not change the results between different wheels, flowing the same mass of air.

It can be factored in the same way as any other restriction, such as an intercooler, ducting, intake runners etc, which are also usually an unknown restriction, unless you test them.

Hence you can compare different wheel trims reliably to each other, as any negative impact of the smaller housing will apply equally to any choice you select.

Hope that doesn't sound like mumbo-jumbo, but it does make sense. :)

[Turb0robb]

So most people are having good luck with PT...What about HPF? Stage V upgraded CT26 good for 500+hp is what is listed on their site. Is this even a credible number for an upgraded CT26?

[HamsMKIV]

Most people who have upgraded the CT-26 have gone with PT. The overall quality is great. I had a problem with my turbo initially after they upgraded. It had a bad oil seal and failed quickly. The failure occured in the first 2 weeks of use. I called them, they had me send it back to them and they fixed it free of charge. They even covered my overnight shipping to them and they overnighted it back to me. I'd say they are quite reputable in the experience I've had with them. Since that fix, I've driven the car hard with absolutely no problems thus far.

I can't speak of HPF because I dont know anything about that company and the upgrade they offer. I would say from my thoughts that a 500+ hp number on a CT-26 upgrade alone sounds a bit unrealistic. My upgrades have only put me in the 420's to wheels. I think to get in the 500's I'm going to have to upgrade to a whole new turbo setup... Probably a SP67 or something similar. I would say that with the right mods, it's quite easy to get well into the 400's.

- Hams

[flubyux2]

When Bish said that bigger wheels on the stock CT shaft create additional loading and stress which shortens the overall life of the turbo... he recommended that the 57 trim wheel on a clipped turbine will be the LEAST stressful of the upgrades on the stock shaft...

BUT, i thought i heard somewhere that you could upgrade the CT to a "big shaft"... if this is the case, How much do one'a dem cost and where do i get it? actually, this would increase the stress handling of the turbo and be able to accomodate the larger wheels w/o sacrificing the longevity.

Btw Shawn, did you just now find those maps or have you been sitting on them this whole time ? ;)

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by flubyux2
Btw Shawn, did you just now find those maps or have you been sitting on them this whole time ? ;)

I've been playing with compressor maps lately, and remembered your post, but yes I've had the link for years. :)

______________________
EDIT: The below information has been shown to be WRONG. Please ingore it. I'm keeping this post here so the thread makes sense. Thank you.
______________________

This will probably get people all rowed up, but going STRICTLY BY COMPRESSOR MAPS, it looks like the t04E-50 trim is superior to any 60-1, 60, 57 etc. trims, at just about any boost level and RPM with our engines!

I've ran this through so many scenarios, taking into account VE, intercoolers, stock dyno sheet curves etc. and it looks like it can't be beat for our engine size, and RPM range.

It should be in higher efficiency range for a much much wider span, at any boost level then the other compressor wheels.

Once again this is strictly from the compressor maps, and screwing around with calculations, so treat it as such. :)

[adjuster]

I would belive it that a smaller wheel would make more power on the 7M.
This engine needs full boost as soon as possible, and even though boost at 6k is fun, the party is pretty much over at that point.
I'm running a STG V BB 60-1, and it really starts to make boost at 4k, but by 6k, the game is up. Down low, it's pretty dang unresponsive.
I think a smaller exhaust housing would be more effective on this car, the stage 3 for example, or even a stock CT clipped about 5 degrees should be fine (or even better) than clipping more for top end power.
The midrange is where we need the power, and I've found the larger turbo's just do not have it down there. (In my experiance anyway.)
I'm still kicking around the idea of two stock exhaust wheel(no clip), 57trim compressor side CT's on a custom manifold. Spool should not be too bad, and it would flow enough for 600hp easy.
Problem is packaging, and having to re-route much of the IC pipes and other plumbing. (Oil filter for example is right were other parts need to be. Removing the Evap canister might make some more room, as well as going to a apron mounted PS tank to move the front turbo forward and down some. (To make room for the intake pipe feeding the rear CT...) It could be done, just don't want to build it and then have a lag monster on my hands.
I don't think there is enough exhaust gas down low, or midrange to run both turbos the more I look at it.
Sorry about the hyjack, the Upgrades really are the best bang for the buck, and they appear to be the best street upgrade overall.

[limequat]

Originally posted by Shawndude
I've been playing with compressor maps lately, and remembered your post, but yes I've had the link for years. :)

This will probably get people all rowed up, but going STRICTLY BY COMPRESSOR MAPS, it looks like the t04E-50 trim is superior to any 60-1, 60, 57 etc. trims, at just about any boost level and RPM with our engines!

I've ran this through so many scenarios, taking into account VE, intercoolers, stock dyno sheet curves etc. and it looks like it can't be beat for our engine size, and RPM range.

It should be in higher efficiency range for a much much wider span, at any boost level then the other compressor wheels.

Once again this is strictly from the compressor maps, and screwing around with calculations, so treat it as such. :)


Hmm, I'm skeptical. What kind of figures did you get for airflow requirements. Using rough calcs, I found ~40 lbs/min at 14 psi and ~50 lbs/min and 20 psi. This would make the smaller turbos great for spool up, but they'd gradually lose efficiency as the engine wound up. In fact, using my calcs, 7m is off the 50 trim map past 20 psi.

One of the reasons that the 60-1 looks so attractive to me is that the map is so WIDE. Try plotting a few maps on the same axis and you'll see the 60-1 is very versatile. According to my guestimates, the 60-1/ct26 will spool and top out near max efficiency for pressure ratios up to 20 psi.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by limequat
Hmm, I'm skeptical. What kind of figures did you get for airflow requirements. Using rough calcs, I found ~40 lbs/min at 14 psi and ~50 lbs/min and 20 psi...
You must be using 100% efficiency numbers, or close to it? You'd get 400 hp at 14 psi at the wheels. Surely that isn't realistic.

You need to make best guess estimates on engine volumetric efficiency (at each RPM), Intercooler efficiency, turbocharger efficiency, temperature, restriction loss etc. at the boost and RPM you're running.

All of those knock down the total lbs/min, and totally change where one is running on the compressor maps.

Use this program, and see what you come up with:http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html

[limequat]

Originally posted by Shawndude
You must be using 100% efficiency numbers, or close to it? You'd get 400 hp at 14 psi at the wheels. Surely that isn't realistic.

You need to make best guess estimates on engine volumetric efficiency (at each RPM), Intercooler efficiency, turbocharger efficiency, temperature, restriction loss etc. at the boost and RPM you're running.

All of those knock down the total lbs/min, and totally change where one is running on the compressor maps.

Use this program, and see what you come up with:http://www.turbofast.com.au/turbomap.html

Actually, I used varying VE depending on RPM. Kinda guessed it from the torque curve, but I used 82% VE at 6000 RPM.
In general, my flow numbers run 15% higher than Ray Hall's. I chalk this up to the fact that I didn't do a complex calc complete with intercooler efficiency and whatnot.

Anyway, according to Ray Hall, you are certainly correct. I put my numbers into Turbomap and the 50 trim was right on. I think he's a little conservative, however :)

For those with a stand alone, it would be fun to record boost vs airflow to see where we actually are on the map...

[Shawndude]

I'll chart the compressor maps manually, and see how it works out.

I think the big difference from the dyno tests we see, is that the pulls are so short, we're seeing close to 100% intercooler temperature efficiencies, as the intercooler just acts as a heat sink, not a heat exchanger during this time.

I'm sure if we used a brake dyno under more representative conditions to street driving, the HP numbers would drop a fair amount.

Has anyone monitored their AFM frequencies during a dyno pull, and compared them to the results on the streets or a race track?


At any rate, real world results are superior to most of the calculations, as there are many variables that could be way off. Never saw a to4e-50 trim dynos though, only 57, 60 and 60-1.

I'm a bit skeptical about these "drop in" dyno places as well. Not saying they're exaggerating the numbers (it depends on the settings they input, which are an calculated guess also), but it sure would be good for business to make the customer happy with nice numbers. :)

[jrushlow]

Shawndude, your post on the 50-trim made me look into it. You're right, according to Ray Hall's site it seems like the 50-trim is right on. It appears to be a good map for 12psi as well as 21psi. I am about ready to get a new turbo and I might just have to try it out regardless of all the people saying they wouldn't get anything less than a 57-trim. Nobody has said that the calculations I used are incorrect though so I'm not sure what they are basing their opinion on. I'm not saying I'm right, I'm just saying I don't know. :)
The next thing is figuring out what to do about the turbine side. I know nothing about that really... time to go open up some books.

-Joe

[supra-g]

alright about to send in the turbo and the people over at
PT said that i should leave a piece of paper with my name and
what i want done to the turbo....
so how should it be done....
60-1 with a 10 degree clip?
TO4E- 60compessor and 10 degree clip
????????????????????
dont know .......
guys that did it lmk
thanks
g

[paddlenbike]

I would be interested in seeing some of these numbers you guys are producing. Kinda like the x-y charts we mapped-out at various boost levels earlier in this thread. I have webspace to host the charts if needed. paddlenbike@yahoo.com

I will be leaning towards the smaller turbo upgrades since I plan to run 9-10 psi daily and a max of 16 psi on occasion. No sense waiting for a big turbo to spool up and having to play catch-up with the car I'm racing.

[Shawndude]

Paddlenbike, I'm not understanding what you're asking very well.

Are you speaking of plotting the compressor maps and comparing those, or dyno sheets and working off of those?

Either way, I think we should start a new thread so we don't bog down this one.

[supra-g]

hey shawndude,
you remember that post about white ash on you dp? well
took of the turbo today to send it off to PT and i got it too!
but from reading your other post, it seems that it was do to
my bhg, i wasnt that color when i MHG'ed it, but it makes sense
that it would show up now cause it is dry and there is no longer
any liquids to keep it moist with coolant...
anyway,
no one gonna answer my question about what to put in with
the turbo????
lmk
thanks
g

[btownboy]

Ok so I go to the local turbo shop "Turbo Auto" Nashville TN. Jeff the guy that works there says that the 57 trim is the biggest wheel that will fit into the ct-26. I told him about PT that is doing the 60-1 for $475 and he was in disbeleif. So he said he can do the 57 trim with my core for anywhere from $490 best case scenario to around $700 worst case. It just makes me feel a little funny that he doesn't think a 60 trim wheel won't fit into the ct-26. He says that would eliminate too much of the housing and get hot easily and stuff. So what are you guys putting down with the 57 trim? Basically it isn't as peaky right? More of a broad power band with lower boost efficiencies? THanks alot

[Shawndude]

Btownboy, I would just go with PT on this one, since it sounds like you wanted the 60-1 trim to begin with, and they've done it tons of times already.

With all supporting mods, you're looking at about 360ish RWHP, with the 57 trim at around 17-20 PSI. Obviously it depends on what you do to the rest of the engine though.

But don't limit yourself because of the shop, get what you want.

[PangitGuyx137]

Hey Guys.. I Just wanted to say thanks for making me understand this concept of Turbos. I was really confused about all these numbers. Now i know what Turbo i want to get. Thanks For All The Info !!

[Mk3_300]

I would like my turbo to last a while since money isn't growing on trees in my backyard! I am thinking about getting the 57 trim for longer life of the turbo with a 10 degree clip on the exhaust.

Does anyone have any HP numbers on a ct-26 with this compressor wheel at say 1 bar? (assumming all supporting mods are present)


Also I've read of horror stories of upgraded CT-26's mostley with the 60-1 w/ 10 degree clip comitting suicide after only a year or so, some after 25,000 miles or so. Is this the average life span for an upgraded ct-26 or just bad luck. I know that the better core you have the longer your turbo will last and that all upgraded turbos are pron to sooner failure than stock, but if you look at it the stock ct-26 turbos on our cars have lasted for some of us well over 100,000 miles and/or 11 or more years of spooling! Now I know that a high performance upgraded turbo won't last that long but as a couple of other members have stated I would like it to last longer than 20,000 - 25,000 miles! Would running synthetic oil (such as Royal Purple) help prolong turbo life? I am just looking for a turbo that can get mw some high hp and tq numbers (300-375hp and 350-425tq at the wheels) and last me for several years (5-6) until I can put a newer and better turbo on or finnaly get enough money together to purchase an MKIV TT. I love what I've heard about the 60-1 compressor w/ 10 degree clip and that it what I really want but if it represents a significant risk to the life of my turbo then I will have to lower my standards and/or find a new solution.

PLEASE someone help me out...

[Larry_A]

Originally posted by Mk3_300
I would like my turbo to last a while since money isn't growing on trees in my backyard! I am thinking about getting the 57 trim for longer life of the turbo with a 10 degree clip on the exhaust.

Does anyone have any HP numbers on a ct-26 with this compressor wheel at say 1 bar? (assumming all supporting mods are present)
.....

PLEASE someone help me out...
I get in on this thread on Page 8, LOL.
;)
I have a couple of Dyno Pages with the 57-trim/10° clip. Go to my site & find the Dyno link. #5 & #6 are the ones to visit. That turbo was built by the Turbonetics crew before the 'good crew' left. Quite reliable. There's pics of the turbo on the site, too.

If I do get anothr MkIII, it would be as a daily driver. A CT-26 upgrade is the most it would see, & only if the turbo needed it. No larger than 54-trim compressor, unclipped exh.

Sorry, but aftr using the 57-trim/clipped, I realized the direction it needed to go for a daily driver, & it wasn't bigger. Over 90% of my driving is under 70mph- a quick 10-12psi is plenty. I don't rev much beyond 4800rpms, so clipping is unnec.

Which makes the big-a$$ TO-4E in my '87 humorous. And is one reason in many why it can't be my daily driver anymore, LOL.

[SupraMK3]

Originally posted by 1QwikMK3
yes bro, you will be fine to run a 60trim upgrade on stock afm and injectors.. GTXSupra is running that setup, and making 270rwhp and his af ratio's are still way rich.. go with the 60 man.

I just made that same rwhp # on the stock turbo, stock AFM and stock injectors last week @ only 11psi. :D

[bdekoning]

so wait, what advantages does the 50 trim offer over the rest again? is it just reliability? or are you actualyl saying that the 50 trim will make more horsepower then the other compressors? you must be talking about at like 1 bar, cause i fail to see the smaller compressor would make more power at boost levels above 18. correct me if im wrong though, cause after reading everything talked about in this thread, ill go ahead and admit it. i thought i did but i realize i DONT know shit about turbos. (serious) :)

[bdekoning]

Has anyone tried welding the WG flapper shut yet on a upgraded CT-26 and running an external WG? do you think theres any power to be gained thru that, since im assuming the stock wg flapper door blows open a little during spool up with more than 20 psi of boost. correct me if im wrong

[Mk3_300]

Originally posted by bdekoning
so wait, what advantages does the 50 trim offer over the rest again? is it just reliability? or are you actualyl saying that the 50 trim will make more horsepower then the other compressors? you must be talking about at like 1 bar, cause i fail to see the smaller compressor would make more power at boost levels above 18. correct me if im wrong though, cause after reading everything talked about in this thread, ill go ahead and admit it. i thought i did but i realize i DONT know shit about turbos. (serious) :)

From what I understand the larger compressor wheel you run the more HP you can make (but of course this doesn't mean crap if your exhaust wheel can't flow it)....on the Ct-26, the larger compressor wheel you run the less overall reliability your turbo will have..... (if I'm leading this guy wrong then please correct me)

if someone has an upgraded Ct-26 with over 35,000 miles on it after the upgrade PLEASE let me know and tell me how you did it b/c from what I have read they won't last that long especialy with the 60-1 trim compressor.

[murkat]

stock turbo/afm/440's, decon dp, tanabe w/ tst pipe exhaust, 7~8 psi boost, 270 hp dyno'd past saturday. Running freaking pig rich :(

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by bdekoning
so wait, what advantages does the 50 trim offer over the rest again? is it just reliability? or are you actualyl saying that the 50 trim will make more horsepower then the other compressors?...........

The difference in actual size of wheels is rather minuscule. Look at the specs of the to4e-50 trim, and the to4b-60-1 compressor wheels. Both have the same exducer diameter, the 50 trim is a whopping 0.202" smaller in diameter on the inducer. The to4e-60 trim even has a smaller exducer diameter than the 50 trim, and marginally larger inducer.

One must learn to read the compressor maps and understand how the engine size and breathing ability effect the choice of wheels to run. Size doesn't matter, the pressure and flow ratio does. "Larger" wheels will not automatically flow more, if the engine cannot utilize it and pushes the efficiency of the wheel into a lower range.

Plot the different wheels at boosts from 6 PSI to 23 PSI, and see what you come up with. I think you'll see the 50 trim beats everything else hands down with our engines, when factoring only the compressor wheels.

That probably didn't help you much, but to generalize on something like this, is counterproductive.

[87SilverSupraTurbo]

With the upgraded CT do you have to port the wastgate out some to prevent boost creep.

[jeighty3]

so from all the info i've gathered the 50trim ct-26 upgrade appears to be the best for these cars, however im wondering is any kind of exhuast clipping necessary with this upgrade? thanks

-=james

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by jeighty3
so from all the info i've gathered the 50trim ct-26 upgrade appears to be the best for these cars, however im wondering is any kind of exhuast clipping necessary with this upgrade? thanks

-=james Woah, let's not jump to conclusions! Remember I only said JUDGING FROM THE FLOW MAPS!

Real world experience will be superior to doodling with numbers and charts any day. :)

There is next to no documented real world results from the 50 trim wheel on a Supra. Tons of documentation on the other variants.

Exhaust clipping is covered at length at the beginning of this thread.

[supratkfy]

reading over the pages and was wondering
i'm planning on getting a 60-1 trim upgrade or a 57 trim but i was worried about the engine having too many miles on it. the cars has 122,000 miles, HKS MHG, HKS dp, HKS exhaust, and K&N filter the rest is stock. if i plan on upgrading the turbo should i worry about rebuilding the engine before doing so? i use the car as a daily driver and was hoping to runat abut 10-14 psi daily.

[paddlenbike]

I did some of my own compressor mapping and came to some interesting conclusions. The smaller upgrade (50-trim) and the larger upgrade (60-1) fit the map best. I find that odd. Regardless here are my assumptions and plotted compressor maps:

Used 10 psi as a "low boost" setting at 16 as high boost.
Used 6,000 RPMs as my max (I rarely exceed 6,000)
Used an 88% volumetric efficiency

Low boost setting (10 psi):

Pressure ratio = boost pressure + atmospheric pressure / atmospheric pressure
PR = 10 psi + 14.7 / 14.7 = 1.68

Airflow (cfm) = displacement (l) x RPM x volumetric efficiency (VE) x PR / 5660
3.0 x 6000 x 88 x 1.68 / 5660 = 470 cfm (470 cfm x 0.069 = 32.4 lbs/min)


High boost setting (16 psi):

PR = 16 psi + 14.7 / 14.7 = 2.09

Airflow = 3.0 x 6000 x 88 x 2.09 / 5660 = 585 cfm (585 cfm x 0.069 = 40.4 lbs/min)

And here's how I came out on the T04E 50-trim:

http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/Supra/tech/to4e-50trim.jpg

Not bad considering how quickly this turbo should spool.

I plotted the TO4E 54 and 57 trims and the outcome was not very desireable. However the TO4E 60-trim and the 60-1 look pretty good; but I don't like the fact that the plots fall on the left side of the island of efficency on the 60-1, which might produce undersireable results at lower RPMs and partial throttle.

TO4E 57-trim plot (http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/Supra/tech/to4e-57trim.jpg)

TO4E 60-trim plot (http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/Supra/tech/to4e-60trim.jpg)

60-1 plot (http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/Supra/tech/t-60-1.jpg)

One question comes to mind; I want to pick the best turbo upgrade for spirited daily driving (with quick spool) and want to run 10 psi daily and 16 psi for playing around. Should I be adding 3 psi to the above calcs to account for pressure drop across the intercooler? (In other words, recalculate at 13 psi and 19 psi since that's what the compressor is actually producing.)

[Shawndude]

Wow, that looks way different than what I got.

Why don't you start a new thread paddlenbike? I'll join in and post my plots there.

__________

Edit:

OMFG!!

Just checked the flow maps against the stupid calculation software, and it looks like it is way off!

That throws all my theories and calculations out the window.

I will have to manually double check, but it looks like a major glitch in MY matrix.

[Shawndude]

Originally posted by paddlenbike
One question comes to mind; I want to pick the best turbo upgrade for spirited daily driving (with quick spool) and want to run 10 psi daily and 16 psi for playing around. Should I be adding 3 psi to the above calcs to account for pressure drop across the intercooler? (In other words, recalculate at 13 psi and 19 psi since that's what the compressor is actually producing.)

Since I'm playing with the maps now. :)

Yes, you have to include the pressure drop of both the intake side of the turbo (this is a major one), and of the intercooler to figure out the pressure ratio to map.

Then you must take that into account when figuring out the mass flow of the engine at that pressure.

I'll shut up until I verify stuff manually over here. :)

[paddlenbike]

Originally posted by Shawndude
Since I'm playing with the maps now. :)

Yes, you have to include the pressure drop of both the intake side of the turbo (this is a major one), and of the intercooler to figure out the pressure ratio to map.


Shawndude,
I would be interested in seeing the flow maps and/or equations you are using. I am using the simplied version shown above, but I did one calculation using a much more complicated method and I ended up with very similar results.

The 50-trim may not be as perfect as you originally thought, but it does look better on paper than a 54-trim or 57-trim and pretty similar to the 60-trim using my numbers. That's impressive in itself.

EDIT--moving compressor calcs to a new thread located HERE (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=151474)

[87SilverSupraTurbo]

I have almost $475 for the CT-26 upgrade from PT. I needed to know exactly what to do, I heard just leave a piece of paper with the turbo in it saying what you want done cause it helps speed things up. For those of you who have done the upgrade from PT could you list the steps you did, shipping info and what not? Thanks.

[Turb0robb]

I was just about to post the exact same thing!:) I too, have one ready to go to PT!

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Yeah just leave a peice of paper (type it up if u can) and say you want to upgrade to whatever trim compressor you want. They clip the turbine for free, so so you can specify a degree of clip.

I called and talked with them, and we figured out a 60-1 compressor along with 10 degree clip would be best for me. So that's what I specified on the letter. I would recommend you call them also just to make sure you know ur making the right choice for u.

anyhow my little pea shooter has been really good to me... never lost a street race with it... i'll miss it :(.

[87SilverSupraTurbo]

Why are you going to miss it?? Getting a different turbo? Hey what is the address I ship the box to?

[89SupraN/A]

im planning on running between 12- 18psi. maybe more like 15psi. can i use stock 440cc injectors, AFM, and fuel pump? or do i need to upgrade to 550cc, Lex AFM, and a walbro fuel pump?

[89SupraN/A]

oops, almost forgot.... going to be running a either a 60trim or 60-1 trim with 10clip.

where can i contact PT? do they have a website?

[87SilverSupraTurbo]

Website is www.turbocharged.com, the number and everything is there.

[Turb0robb]

WG port of a 92

[Turb0robb]

WG port of an 87

[Shawndude]

Yup, it usually cracks around the wastegate hole. Also look inside the turbo inlet. One of my housings has a HUGE crack running down the middle of it.

It's basically scrap metal at that point. :(

[Turb0robb]

The 87 is really hosed but there are only 2 small fractures on the 92's WG...but is it not upgradable?

[perf0rmance]

I was curious, which turbo trim would be more streetable:

to4e 60
to4b 60-1

Keep in mind...no clip

To be more specific, at what psi would the 60-1 trim be a better "street" turbo than the 60 trim.

For instances, if I ran @ 12psi on both turbos, the 60 trim would probably better because it would probably be in a higher efficiency state. But if I were to run @ 20psi, then the 60-1 trim would be the better choice. (all info stated was used as an example)

I'd like to know what the actually psi would be before the 60-1 would be come the better suited turbo. DON'T FORGET I MENTIONED STREET TURBO. Like if I ran 16psi, would I get better use out of the 60 trim or the 60-1 trim?

I'VE READ THIS WHOLE THREAD, AND HAVEN'T COME UP WITH AN ANSWER

Many people go with the 60 trim w/ a 10 deg clip. I'd rather go to a larger compressor wheel than a clip.

Basically, I'm comparing the 60 trim to the 60-1 trim, both with NO clip.

I'm realistically looking for the 400 hp mark. (rwhp)
I'm currently running bpu :K&N fpik, IC hardpipes, 3" downpipe, Profec B @ fuel cut. I'm torqued down to 75ft-lbs., but I'm getting another engine, so I'll be doing an MHG on that. I'll do the fuel system upgrade and the lex AFM/ 550's, so MY LAST CONCERN IS THE TURBO.

Thanks,
Joseph

[Dieselboy]

After reviewing this thread, it looks as though either the 60trim or the 60-1 with a 10 degree clip would most likely be in my best interest. I feel the 7M has enough low end torque to be a satisfactory daily driver and besides, I am more of a freeway warrior/drifter/top end pull type of guy so I feel that would meet my needs best until I have enough funds to start researching a BB setup of some sort.

Now I didnt see this particular question asked, but with BPU's, a Lexus AFM, 550cc's, and an SAFC, would that be enough to support lets say, a 60-1 CT26 to around 18-20psi? Would I need a Walbro 255lph or MKIV fuel pump? I dont see AFPR's being talked about much, are the stock FPR's fine for higher hp? When would an AFPR come into play? Also, when would be a good idea to start looking into an FMIC kit during this whole transition?

[Shawndude]

perf0rmance, have a look at this thread.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=151474

It will help you decide between the 60 or 60-1 wheel.

[paddlenbike]

Originally posted by Dieselboy
...a Lexus AFM, 550cc's, and an SAFC, would that be enough to support lets say, a 60-1 CT26 to around 18-20psi? Would I need a Walbro 255lph or MKIV fuel pump? I dont see AFPR's being talked about much, are the stock FPR's fine for higher hp? When would an AFPR come into play?

I would upgrade your 14-year old fuel pump, but I have the same question regarding the AFPR. The Lex/550 makes these cars run rich as it is and I can remove fuel with my S-AFC. I would have to remove the AFPR every-other year to pass a smog inspection--that's one more thing I'd rather not have to spend money and time on if I don't have to. Comments?

[perf0rmance]

Thanks Sdude.

I've been following you and Pbike for awhile now.

I really appreiciate what you two are doing for our community, as well as the others that I have failed to mention (sorry).

Thanks again fellas.

[paddlenbike]

Last week I posted this pic, thinking my turbo was completely unbuildable: (can you tell I was upset at the time?)
http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/Supra/temp/crackedturbo1.JPG

Performance Techniques called me today and said 95% of the CT26s they see are cracked in the same way, although many are in much worse shape than mine. Who knows how long it will really last, but the good news is if/when it gets bad enough, you can simply unclamp the exhaust housing and replace it (good luck finding a good one) without upsetting the careful internal balance of the shaft.

This turbo had slight radial play and some axial play, but it was still rebuildable. There is hope for your old tired turbo!

[Brian@7MPower]

http://www.7mpower.com/brian/turbo/Resize%20of%20IMG_0755.jpg

Mines fine, right???? ;) j/k

[bishop66]

can some one give my a link to pt

[bishop66]

i have never heard of it

[mikkee123]

NP

http://64.225.76.178/main.htm Thats "PT" "Turbonetics" ETC

[paddlenbike]

I mentioned this in another thread, but thought it would be worthwhile to post here too. I did a rather unscientific test tonight to find out how many RPMs it took to see 6 psi and 10 psi of boost. I put the car in 4th gear and slowed down until the tach read about 1500 RPMs, then stabbed the gas while comparing RPMs to my Apexi boost gauge. I did each test five times, so the results should be good within about 50 RPMs.

I saw 6 psi at 2450 RPMs and 10 psi at 2900 RPMs.

Turbo is an unclipped TO4E 60-trim upgrade. It should be noted that I have a Defcon downpipe, 3" cat and an HKS dual-tip exhaust.

[fstlane88]

Do you guys think that if a replacement WG was bought and installed on an upgraded turbo, it would elminate the boost dropping that occurs. Mainly b/c of bad/failing WG or WG housing, right? Reason I ask is b/c, I am going to be sending a turbo off to PT soon, planning on a 60-1 w/ a 10 degree clip. Now I know the clipping arguement will go back and forth all night, but I haven't found a concise answer. And even with shimming the wastegate, boost still falls off towards redline. From what I've heard. I want a turbo that's gonna HOLD power to redline. Can that be had w/ an upped CT?

EDIT: Turbo is going out to PT Monday, guy told me today when I called that... Unless you're going for 450+ rwhp don't clip. So I decided a 60 trim un-clipped is what I want. Will update when I get it back. I can't wait! :D

[toyosup85]

i bought a 60-1 from a guy in canada, drove it for 15 minutes an it was fried, i payed 650 for it a year ago, a friend had on for 3 months an it blew. my thoughts on the upgrade are if you want about 350hp for the street it will work, but how long it will last is the question. im not trying to put the upgrades down but i think for the cost of them an alittle extra money you can get a better turbo that will be alot more reliable an could make more power. i have just had no luck with them an they want like 400 dollars to rebuild if the shaft is not bent, its not worth it to me.

[mikkee123]

you are talking about that guy on ebay? The balance of the shaft is very critical. An unbalanced mass spining 100,000 rpm will destroy on the first pull. You really have to go to a reputable shop to have this modification done.

[suprra_girl]

hey :)
i've got a ct26 that's been upgraded to the t04e 50.9m wheel

is this the biggest you can fit in the ct26 safely and what are all the specs on this, i see ppl writing their clips and trims and all those things

what would mine be?

thanx ;)

[mikkee123]

Well the largest to4e offered is the 60 trim. You probably have a to4e 50 not a 50.9. The clip is decided by the exhaust or turbine wheel. Look at the edge of each blade. If you have a clip, it will be slightly angled.

[isnms]

Does anyone have any real world experience yet to add on the 50 trim?


Originally posted by jeighty3
so from all the info i've gathered the 50trim ct-26 upgrade appears to be the best for these cars...-=james
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally by Shawndude on 11-12-2003 08:54 PM:
Woah, let's not jump to conclusions! Remember I only said JUDGING FROM THE FLOW MAPS!
Real world experience will be superior to doodling with numbers and charts any day.
There is next to no documented real world results from the 50 trim wheel on a Supra. Tons of documentation on the other variants...

[suprra_girl]

well i found out what i have
a 50.9mm wheel
known as the 46 trim
the weiner ct26 lol
exhaust is standard not clipped

whats the specs on these.. what boost can they handle and how much hp before they start falling over?

Thanks :D

Suze

[mk3smakemehappy]

i have a question. wut exactly is a clip. like can anybody post a pic of it?

[isnms]

from: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=193001


Originally posted by SupraNick
i gots 10 degree clip! u can see the clip here from Larrys site....

stock on left, clip on right
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/mods/turbo/exhx2.jpg

[mk3smakemehappy]

sorry im a newb. where is it? :(

[suprra_girl]

now i'm not a turbo expert by any means hehe
but i believe its the way the exhaust wheel is shaped from stock... see how the stock one has pretty much flattish fins and the clipped one is wavier... i think that's it :)

i dunno why they call it a clip... you would expect to see a chunk out of it lol
i think they should put it in rank of flowers lol
flower 1 being basically stock and flower 10 being massively clipped :lol:

[mk3smakemehappy]

ooo now it makes sence. 10,12,14, etc. its the curve

[Zi4life978]

Wow, awesome sticky. This really helped. looks like 60-1 with a 10 degree clip.

[stallion]

okay well i want to have 400rwhp but i still wanna pull all the way through the rev range. After reading all the pages I think the only way to go is a 60-1 with a 10deg clip. The turbo i have now has no play and is in good condition. If PT does the work and balances the shaft I should be able to have a decent street racing machine as well as a top end powerful hiway killer.....

Id love to keep this thread alive to hear about others experiences with clipped and upgraded turbos......

[Disced]

I actually heard the 60 trim will last a bit longer and still flow up to about 450 HP fully tuned...

They say it spools as fast as the stock CT but pulls all the way to 7k.. and thats with no clip...

The only reason you would need a clip was if the turbo you chose couldn't flow enough air @ high RPM's...

So why get a clip? It could theorhetically (sp) fuck up the balancing and your turbo could go bye bye!

[turbo87supra]

I just got my upgraded CT back from PT about a week ago. I got the 60-1 with no clip. I do not see the point in having a clip with that turbo. If you are worried about making more than 400-450 rwhp then I don't think you should try to do it with a CT. People have made 400-450 hp with this turbo and with no clip. This is just my opinion.
-Andy

[stallion]

i understand that you might not need a clip but when does a 60 trim turbo fully spool by? What if i only want to run it at 350rwhp for a time will it be a pig or will i still get good performance? and what is the benefit to a 60 trim over a 60-1 why not do it right and go with a 60-1

[turbo87supra]

I am going to be installing my turbo today, so I will post up again after we give it some hell. From what I heard you can hardly tell a difference between the 60-1 and stock as far as spool-time goes. People that I have talked to say that they spool anywhere from 2500-2800 rpm. This turbo upgrade will not make your car be a lag monster, but if you have a clip on it, then it does have a little bit more lag but apparently it gives you more top-end power. The 60 trim is smaller than the 60-1. The 60-1 is better for the MK3 Supra from what I have heard. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.
-Andy

[turbo87supra]

We got the turbo on yesterday, but it started snowing as soon as we got done. Just got back from reamin on it and I can tell a huge difference. You can't tell too much of a difference in first, but second pins you back pretty hard. I still have stock boost and the stock exhaust.

[NEWTRENZ 702]

has anyone tried a ct 26(57trim) then later on tried the ct 26(60-1)trim ? if so was there a big difference ? im looking into the sp61gt direct bolt on turbo also !

[ImUrTurboLover]

I emailed PT but didn't get an email back... whats the deal? how long can I expect to wait to get a response?

I was basically asking him about pricing. What do you guys do, just ship him your turbo with a letter asking what to do? Or should he be expecting it... it's been about 5 days since I emailed him.

[isnms]

http://64.225.76.178/main.htm
Performance Techniques
346 South "I" Street Unit 3
San Bernardino, CA 92410
Phone: 909.824.1020
FAX: 909.381.5683

best bet is to call. they told me their email is all messed up. like you i sent an email and waited a couple of weeks and no response. that's when i called them.
you will need to ship it to them with a sheet of paper inside the package attached to the turbo stating:

your name
contact phone numbers
upgrade you want done
and state SOGI discount :), that makes it $475 for the upgrade

[ImUrTurboLover]

sweet deal

all I do is put "SOGI discount" eh? I am a member of SOGI afterall... lol

thanks for the help man... I'll give them a call real soon.

[turbo87supra]

Mine was $450. Just tell them your a member of supraforums and you saw that most people were getting them for $450. Thats what I did.

[dogdrake]

i just baught a ceramic turbine wheel for my 62-1 ct26 turbo it was alot lighter than stock .hope to get up to boost alot sooner . i baught the wheel for 150 bucks. on ebay from turbos_r_us it should help the lag from the larger compressor wheel ,it spinns alot smoother now too. with less rotating mass.

[Jeff Lange]

I am using a Blitz Bag ct-26 and am wondering if anyone has information of any sort on this turbo. It came from Japan and I am using it on my 300zx. I would like to know what it will flow and what it will put down for me.

By the way I am not Jeff, this is his brother Jason posting, I am also using a spearco designed for you guys...Kind of wierd eh??http://www.n-e-c-c.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=925

If you want to see what is all being done check this out...

[Disced]

i just baught a ceramic turbine wheel for my 62-1 ct26 turbo it was alot lighter than stock .hope to get up to boost alot sooner . i baught the wheel for 150 bucks. on ebay from turbos_r_us it should help the lag from the larger compressor wheel ,it spinns alot smoother now too. with less rotating mass.

Mmmm... You should have searched on here for 'ceramic turbine' before you bought that.. I am pretty sure the 1jZ turbo's are ceramic; and the reason all of the 1jz guys want to use the US 2jz twins is because the 1jz turbos after 15 + lbs of boost, desintagrate. Blow up. Fall apart. Crumble. You name it, it happens to it; everything except holding well @ high boost levels. You should have just stuck with a ct upgrade 62-1 from steve or PT... they all say full boost by 3500....

[cheappower82]

H3 compressor wheel, ported WG, adjustable wastegate arm, clipped turbine wheel - $525 @ BNR Supercars.

341HP and 366TQ at 1 bar dyno sheet 1 bar (http://www.pbase.com/celicaxx/image/47216757/large)

348HP and 394TQ at ~1.2 bar dyno sheet 1.2 bar (http://www.pbase.com/celicaxx/image/47216749/large)

The H3 has been treating me well
http://www.pbase.com/celicaxx/image/46504148/large.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/celicaxx/image/46608892/large.jpg

[Kenshiro]

348/394 is badass, are you on the stock bottom end?

[91T breezen']

I'm on a .57 Trim CT, w/ a 10 degree clip on the exhaust side, Lexus maf, stock injectors, Aeromotive vfpr and layed down 304whp, 291rwtq (A340 Auto) That was completly untuned, with a/f's at about 11.34/1 all the way across the pull. Car ran a 14.13et, at 103mph, in the heat of the day. With the right driver, and tuning, I know it can get into the mid 13's and upwards of 105-107mph. The .57 hits full spool about 3500-3700rpm, and pulls all the way to the redline, hard! I'm planning on dropping in some 650cc injectors soon, and getting a SAFC II for some tuning. If the auto will hold it, :x: I'm hoping for about 360-380whp, maybe higher. If the auto breaks, I'll make a real car outta' it with a R154 swap in! :bigthumb:

[cheappower82]

348/394 is badass, are you on the stock bottom end?

Yes, stock 6M internals. Only added HKS 1.2mm HG and ARP headstuds. Wished I would've dropped in some 7M-GTE rods; maybe next time.