The Official 1/2na-t Conversion Thread

[jong]

I've been receiving lots of requests for information regarding this. So, I'm creating this thread to clear up any confusion regarding this type of conversion and to pool information because some threads lack important info. If you have anything to add, please by all means do so, just keep it civil and of pure logical importance. :)

The following is information i gathered before and after doing my 1/2na-t. This is how i did it, the mistakes i made, and better ways to do things. Don't assume this is the "best" way to perform the 1/2na-t, this is simply my experience with it.

First and Foremost, i think its necessary to let people know that this is not an easy project. If may look easy, but don't let the conversion checklist fool you. This could ultimately make or break your car. Half-assing will not be tolerated by your engine. If you are to do this conversion, you must take your time. This sort of thing can't be rushed. You must also have a good undestanding of what you are doing. I would suggest you read "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. This book will really help you understand turbochargers. Then i would suggest you rent the book "Vehicle and Engine Technology" by Heinz Heisler. Thats about an $85 book with almost 780 pages. Written by a professor from london, its very very helpful in learning about tuning and engine theory. Just touch a few chapters in that book, he beats a few topics to death. :p Again, i would like to stess the fact that i researched and read for almost a year before doing this conversion to my car. Its important to know what you are doing and that lefty is loosey and righty is tighty.

Another topic that often comes up in discussion is cost. heh, cost... Most supra owners will tell you NEVER EVER add up receipts, well... i did. The 1/2na-t cost me $1239 total. But... I got the following items for free; 440 injectors, fuel regulator, exhaust manifold, HKS downpipe, stock bov, stock tubing. I also got insane deals on a rebuilt ct-26 (175), safc (150), and intercooler (60). Also one thing that i forget to budget for this project is mistakes.. Heh, mistakes cost me at least 50 total. Just for broken bolts, nuts, new gaskets, silicone, hose clamps... over time it all adds up. I would say, a safe budget would be at 1500-1750. Its always better to have too much money for a project than too little. :bigthumb:

Okay, here is the 1/2na-t Parts list that i worked off of. I collaborated this list 4 monthes before i did the project and then modified it after i did it. Its fairly accurate.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ½ NA-T Conversion
Performed on a 1986.5 mk3 Toyota Supra

Parts Needed From Mk3 Turbo
-CT26 turbocharger
-Stock Piping
-Exhaust manifold
-Down-pipe
-440 injectors (better get them now)
-Blow off valve w/ tube assembly
-Oil inlet and outlet lines
-Coolant in/out lines
-Fuel Pressure Regulator

Optional Parts from Mk3 Turbo
-Stock BOV (probably easier to put aftermarket on)

After market necessities
Items marked with * can be optional but just make life easier
-Boost Gauge
-Fuel Pressure Gauge*
-Air/Fuel ratio Gauge
-New free flowing exhaust*
-A’PEXi Super ACF fuel controller (SAFC)(HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
-2mm Metal head gasket (MHG) Tighten your stock to 72 ft/lb. and you should be good*
-Fuel Pressure regulator of some kind! Generally a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (RRFPR)*
-Oil Cooler*
-Aftermarket Downpipe*
-Aftermarket Blow Off Valve (BOV)*
-¾” rubber hoses for oil outlet*
-Turbo NGK Spark Plugs gapped at 29
-MSD ignition Boost Timing Master (BTM), this will eliminate detonation and take the guesswork out of retarding the timing on the car.*



Tips and N/A modifications to ensure the proper operation
-Tighten your AFM so the turbo doesn’t constantly suck it open
-Retard timing 2-5 degrees if no MSD BTM is used
-Re-Route PCV hoses and plug up where they enter the throttle body, if this isn’t done you’re car will smoke like no tomorrow
-For the Oil, take oil from the pressure sender unit, just screw in a T and get your oil feed from there. For the oil drain, you can either; a) remove the block plate for the oil cooler return and use that, which is easier but may not flow as well, or you can b) remove the oil pan (PITA) and insert your own drain fitting
-Start out with a stock boost pressure and get the car running for a while before you crank the boost.
-Cranking the boost is not recommended
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Alright, if you have any questions regarding information on this list, it can most likely be found in SF, so just search. If it doesn't appear in the search, ask me, and i'll add it to the list if i think its important. :)

Okay, next i'll include the installation checklist i used during my 1/2na-t. Its not very specific because most of the stuff i had in my head, but it'll get you started in the right direction. :cool:


-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_

½ NA-T Conversion Checklist

-Check Compression, using TSRM, if not good... Do NOT proceed


-Remove all NA intake and exhaust manifold, throttle, ect.
-Clean engine
-Remove valve covers
-re-torque HG (get instructions for this)
-Clean throttle, intake Y-pipe, and manifold (carb cleaner, just get carbon out)
-Install RRFPR and injectors (make sure to put the rubber washers on the bottom of the injectors)
-punch hole for oil drain or use existing oil drain (easier and safer to remove oil pan for this)
-Install oil feed T-coupler into oil pressure sender
-install intercooler and oil cooler
-install EGT probe and other probes/gauges
-Gap and install spark plugs (autolites, NGK, but NO BOSCH!!!!!)
-install ex. manifold, turbo, elbow, DP (may need new bolts, nuts, and gaskets)
-install Intake manifold, y-pipe, and throttle
-install hoses, BOV
-Adjust AFM
-Add Octane booster (toluene, xylene, ect)
-Adjust timing
-tune, and get to idle
-check oil pressure for turbo
-grace tuning

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_

The following are mistake i made along the way and how to correct them....

1) Oil feed... i used an oil filter reloation kit to feed oil to my turbo. That proved too much oil too soon, and it forced oil past the seals, into the intake. bad idea. I now have oil coming from a feed installed in the oil pressure sender. much better

2) Oil drain... I punched a hole with a punch into the side of my oil pan then jammed a fitting in there. I'm a little embarrassed by this, because it's probably the dumbest thing i've ever done. Oil leaked everywhere and my GOBS of silicone glue didn't aid the problem at all... I removed the oil pan and now have a nice, clean, secure fitting in there. It doesn't leak a drop.

3) dyno.... this was rushing in its purest form. I completed the 1/2na-t in a week and set a dyno appointment for the end of the week. It sucked. The car ran poorly because i tightened the last bolt 5 minutes for the dyno. A huge manifold leak and throttle blockage caused miserable, embarrassing, and depressing numbers. To fix this... simply take your time.

4) BOV... I vented a stock BOV to open air.. enough said... that caused nice vac leaks and inconsistant boost. To fix this... get an aftermarket or plumb the stocker into the intake.

5) I didn't search... I pestered the heck out of people from SF, over AIM and on the phone. I was a real PITA, asking dumb questions. This made a lot of people uncomfortable with talking to me, and kinda annoyed with me. To fix this problem... just search, read, and learn because that will answer most questions. :)

okay. thats most of my information regarding the 1/2na-t. the rest is up to you, because most of it is just Supra Knowledge and Know-How. ;) If you need pics, search SF, i've posted quite a few. Have fun with this and be careful!

-jon

[SoopraCharged]

Great guide, I am doing the process myself soon I think alot of other NA guys might try it also. Could this get stickyed so I dont have to scroll 2 pages just to see it every other day :p and other people might like to see it also hehe.


Biggest problem I see so far is oil issues, Anybody with indetail steps to this wanna share with pics and all for the slow learners? Thanks.

[MKIIINA]

I have a buddy who is attempting this on his 86.5 and it really seems to be a complete guide! its can be a cheap alternative to putting a completely stock GTE motor in it. Might wanna sticky this and get some more feedback from others who have done it. I'm betting there are other problems that people have encountered and before starting this project.

[SoopraCharged]

Any more feedback from other people? probly not cause this is like on page 3458072345?

[mullenc525]

it seams to me that it would be easier to swap turbo electronics as well including harness, keeping the na block. Seems like it would be cheaper too? THats what I would plan on doing if the middle 3 cylinders have the same 180-185 psi as 1,2,and 6.

[jong]

Originally posted by SoopraCharged
Biggest problem I see so far is oil issues, Anybody with indetail steps to this wanna share with pics and all for the slow learners? Thanks.

Its easily solved by just taking oil feed from the pressure sender and draining it in the oil cooler bypass port (IIRC) which is blocked off on the GE block. just remove the block and screw in a fitting (IIRC).

Other Threads/sites related to the 1/2na-t

She Lives by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=163031)
1/2 na-t guys by 87supra (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=135191&highlight=1%2F2nat)
Na-t by Porn-adkt (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=121198&highlight=1%2F2nat)
Tons of Turbo Trivia by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=113358&highlight=1%2F2nat)
1/2na-t Page (http://www.geocities.com/mwsupra2003/nat.html)
The "1/2na-t Conversion by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=112821&highlight=jong)
Tips for Removing the engine... by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=156902&highlight=jong)
The 1/2na-t in one week by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=136631&highlight=jong)
I think I've got a BIG problem... by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=138765&highlight=jong)
na/t oil line route by Tihgae (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=132289&highlight=jong)
SS oil lines and coolant by Jong (http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=135597&highlight=jong)

hope that helps :)

[87supra]

someone sticky this

[86SUPRA7mgte]

props to Jon

I LOVE 86.5!!!

[jong]

Upon adjusting the AFM, make sure you don't make it [i]too[/t] tight. This will cause not enough air to be let into the engine, causing it to have longer turbo lag, and a rich a/f mixture. This will take some time to figure out, which is why an SAFC is a huge help cause it measures the reading from the AFM. right now i have mine so it idles between .6% and .8% Afl. I have yet to hit 100% afl on this setting with any amount of pushing her.

[NMS71]

it seams to me that it would be easier to swap turbo electronics as well including harness, keeping the na block. Seems like it would be cheaper too? THats what I would plan on doing if the middle 3 cylinders have the same 180-185 psi as 1,2,and 6.
While the n/a is hampered by a distributor, the compute does not have boost cut. There is a good reason not to.

[jong]

Originally posted by NMS71
While the n/a is hampered by a distributor, the compute does not have boost cut. There is a good reason not to.

A good reason not to what? I'm confused. There are both ups and downs to each method of the na-t. This thread, however, is a "how to" thread, not a "which is better" thread. Please stick to questions regarding the 1/2na-t. :) thanks

[TD42T]

The oil cooler bypass port mentioned is a pressure port.
It cannot be used for the oil drain.
A drain welded into the sump of atleast 3/4"diameter is the only solution.
You do not have to tee into the pressure sender for the oil feed the port is on the side of the block above the engine mount,with a plug in it.
By a boost retard of some desciption straight away and leave at stock timing.
Also strongly suggest not playing with AFM.
A S-AFC,adjustable FPR, and a FCD will work better in the long run.

[jong]

Originally posted by TD42T
See above....



good info.

this conversion is different for every person/car. I had to adjust my AFM cause the turbo was sucking it open too quickly. But of coarse there is equipment to adjust for that. :)

As far as the oil drain. I do not have first hand experience using the cooler bypass. I was told that it would and wouldn't work by many people. So i threw it in there. :)

:D

[Ominous Supra]

*Gravels* THANK YOU...NOW I CAN'T WAIT TO TURBO MY N/A

[jong]

New numbers in for the 1/2na-t

Stock Boost (6.8psi) With a bottleneck custom exhaust, intake, chrome hardpipes and bov, tuned for about 13:1 i pulled 233 rwhp and 267 rwtq!!! STOCK BOOST!!!!

I beleive with similar mods a turbo motor won't pull anywhere near those numbers.

[Jeff Lange]

Yeah, it's that higher static compression ratio. :)

When you start to go more boost/larger turbos then you'll see the drawbacks of the higher compression. Nice numbers though jong, real nice. :)

When I had planned on doing a 5M-GTE setup, I was also planning on using the higher compression motor, to get more power out of lower boost. :)

[87supra]

jong, your car still running ok? what kind of reliability issues have you ran into? i think i may be followin in your footsteps soon enough

[jong]

the car is still running fine, nothing is busted due to the turbo installation, just normal supra stuff. Reliability, has not been an issue yet ( cross my fingers) i still get ~22mpg and i boost quite often. Here is a pic of my dyno sheet at Chi2k4.

edit: The ct-26 is capable of spooling at 2.1k rpms in 5th gear and hits full boost at 2.4k... heh... awesome

[jong]

Just to update you guys. I just shimmed my wastegate and i am now currently running about 7.8 PSI. No problems yet, i'm still retuning, but everything feels fine. I'm thinking about adding one more washer to get me past 8 PSI, but i'm considering a better intercooler before i do. I'll let you guys know.

Further Update
Fixed some things, i'm at 8 psi now. The oil pan is leaking hardcore cause i put in a cork gasket... my bad... so i gotta fix that now...... urgh.....

additional update
Put on a DSM 1G bov in place of my autotecnica. its a very very nice bov and it sounds pretty good too. :) Ummm... tonight i was screwin around and noticed a whole bunch of smoke under prolonged boost. The smoke doesn't appear when boosting around town, just prolonged highway boosting. I have a feeling i need to hook my PCV before the turbo, i have a feeling that is it. My lower IC pipe is dry and there are no other oil leaks. Not a BHG, so... my money is on the PCV system. This just goes to show that there are still bugs in the system, even after a year has gone by... keep that in mind :bigthumb:

[bgcooper]

i've been thinking of doing this but not too sure that i want to rip my motor apart...no cherry picker or anything...how difficult would it be to do it while the motor is still in?? and with all these oil problems could anybody take some good picks of how the problem was solved and post them? thanks

[jong]

i did the 1/2na-t with the engine still in the car. the way that i plumbed my oil return ( a fitting into the oil pan ) needed some work, so i had to take off the pan so it was done cleanly.

I think its mentioned above, but there is a port that some have used for a drain and its worked fine. This conversion is easily doable without removing the engine. I just made it a little harder on myself by not using the port.

To solve all the oil issues, get a oil feed/drain flange for the turbo that has AN fittings installed, IIRC someone on the forums can provide, i'm not sure who. If you use fittings for everything and make it all nice and snug, you shouldn't have any issues at all.

UPDATE
Important mod for the 1/2na-t

My 86.5 has a different oil dipstick than the turbo guys, over time, my turbo has cooked the crap out of it and now the rubber at the base of the handle has shrunk. Mean that it doesn't stay in on its own. To fix this, convert your dipstick to a turbo dipstick, shouldn't be too costly. gl :bigthumb:

[MnSupra]

Hey thank you you just made it so im not going to be doing that just do and engine swap lol the engine cost 1000 and the ecu and intercooler and some other stuff i can get from my friend for free almost lol. so ty anyways it actully help me firgure out what im giong to do.

[jong]

heh.. sorry to discourage you bud. :)

UPDATE
I just raised my boost. I'm at about 8.8 or 9. The needle is almost on the 9 psi mark. I'm still tuning but my laptop crapped out so i need to wait a little bit til i get it charged. She's still running rich, but it's pulling pretty good still. No BHG yet... :p I also loosened my AFM flapper, it still isn't flowing its max at WOT and high rpms. I really wanna get that thing flappin like its supposed to, i'm sure its killing the air flow into the turbo. Other than that, not too much... just an update :)

ANOTHER UPDATE
well, i blew out my TPS so car is running all wierd now. I tried WOT and hit 15:1 a/f, so no more WOT for me until i get this TPS fixed. I also have my new GTE dipstick and quide and turbo oil flange, so this weekend will be fun.

For the future, i'm looking at running dual flapper AFM's, its possible, cause the safc can blend two signals and average them into one. So.. that'll be cool. I'm also looking into a custom FFI center feed and a side to side FMIC.

Things to come.. new 3" turbo back exhaust, new intercooler, integrated computer for datalogging, new brakes, and a couple other goodies.

another update
blew out my FPR, jumpered the fuel pump to run 12v all the time, getting new FPR

Winter update
well. installed the new FPR, car runs awesome. Until last night... my spec stage 2 clutch is slipping like mad. So... this sucks. I'm at 11psi and the stage two is supposed to hold 300 ft/lb's... The install was picture perfect too, nicely machined flywheel. So... i guess on a more happier note, my car is making close or over 300 ft/lbs ;)

Late Winter Update
Well, its been almost 2 years on a boosted GE with stock HG. I now have a BHG. The fuel system was having some troubles, leaned out, detonated... BHG... oh well. i knew this was coming sooner or later.

[jong]

1/2NA-T NEWS

JT87NA has just finished his 1/2na-t.. He used the oil cooler return port, which is STILL in debate if it can work or not... but something went terribly wrong, he got excessive blow by caused by bad rings or something, that didn't allow the turbo oil to drain, and now he's got 30psi on one cylinder... poor fella... he has a zillion threads, so check them out for more infoand

86SUPRA7mgte is just about to finish his 1/2na-t setup... wish him the best

My car is still down cause of BHG. My deadline for completion is May 20th. These are the mods i have bought during the down time / working on...

--port and polish head... this thing will flow better than a 1JZ... well.. probably not.. but will flow better... I'm putting an huge amount of time and money into that
-- +1mm Eaton valves
-- new valve seals, and every gasket / seal is getting replaced
-- FFI ( maybe, cause i will need a new FMIC too)
-- Upgraded clutch 6-puck sprung hub disc, and upgraded pressure plate for more holding capacity... i tore my spec stage 2 a new one last year... it slips pretty bad... not sure if i can turn my flywheel again... uh oh....
-- Walbro 255
-- Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator 1:1

Future mods...
These mods have a deadline of July 20th.
-- SMT6 Super-piggyback computer (timing control, injector control, boost control, ect)
-- Integrated computer system / better laptop ( dunno which yet)
-- Fire extinguisher...( i don't wanna die)
-- New tires, probably BFG g-force KDW ( upgrade from my currect BFG g-force KDWS)
-- monster 5 deck wing.... ( j/k)

[dok33]

Good to see I talked you into the SMT-6 :bigthumb: Sounds like you'll be back and better than ever.

[jong]

ya, i cannot wait. That SMT-6 sounds like a gold mine!

[dok33]

I got some new info regarding using the SMT-6 for Turbo apps a while back, don;t remember if I posted it or not. I've got a PDF of their "Turbo Application Notes" if you want it. Here's the basic gist of their viewpoint:
"We generally don't recommend the larger injector method for turbo
applications, it is normally a lot more work with little benefit, but it
can be done. Here is something to be aware of.

You are still working with the original ecu, don't make the new
injectors to large, if your stock map sensor voltage is manipulated so
that it is close to zero then you are hitting the physical limit of the
ecu, you cannot get any less fuel out of the car barring dropping fuel
pressure. Be careful when doing this as well or you may not have
sufficient fuel during boost. You can overcome this problem with a
rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

If you sit back and think about it for a second you will see that the
great advantage about adding the extra injector is that the cars tuning
profile is effectively untouched during NA conditions, this is why it is
so much more effective to tune it this way. The MAP sensor can be used
to tune the fuel in the NA portion but the main reason we tap into this
signal is to clamp the voltage at a certain level so that it never
reaches the point where the ecu sees a boost cut level. After this point
you simply add the extra fuel you need via the extra injector (the
original ecu is still supplying fuel at the level of the clamped MAP
sensor voltage so you are really just topping up the level) and if
necessary retard ignition to avoid detonation.

Although it looks a lot neater and I am certainly not saying the SMT6
cannot do this, the larger stock injectors normally involve installing a
new map sensor and a complete retune of both NA and boosted regions. You
also run the risk of rich idle if the management system cannot supply a
small enough open time for the larger injectors.

We normally install the extra injector after the butterfly, a good trick
is to angle the spray into the incoming airflow, its sort of the same
idea and spraying a hose pipe into the wind, it atomizes the particles a
lot better.

Lets start off with the physical limitations of the SMT6's extra
injector driver. The driver is capable of sinking up to 6A of current, a
3 ohm injector will draw about 4A of current (depending on your supply
voltage) so I would say yes this is fine just as long as it is just one
injector.

For installation I have seen a few ways of doing it, some are pretty
crude, basically just a hole in the manifold that the injector is
secured into but I have seen special fitting made, it may be worth
taking a look at some aftermarket stores for something like this.

I would suggest primary tuning on the AMP coulomb of the injection map,
since its position is based on load readings it the best indication of
the fueling requirements. You will still need values on the 8x16 map to
give you an initial injection time to work with.

No, the 8x16 map is the main map responsible for the injector timing,
depending on your wiring it typically bases its mapping on the rpm and
tps reading. Values in this map turn the injector on for a certain time,
then the injector stays off for the rest of the rpm cycle. Values typed
into the 16 row map on the right hand side of the screen are multiply
the main 8x16 map value, so if you want the 16 row map to do nothing put
in a value of 1 and if you want the 8x16 map off at a certain pressure
level put in a value of 0 on the 16 row map.

The general idea with a turbo map is to have fueling values on the main
8x16 screen and then use the pressure 16 row map to manipulate the
quantity based on pressure reading."

Let us all know how it goes, I just bought a house so I won't be buying an SMT-6 any time soon. You can be the guinea pig once again :bigthumb:

Let me know if you have any questions too, I researched this stuff for a few months so I might be able to help even though I don't physically have an SMT-6 :)

[jong]

i have also read the turbo application notes and have done extensive research. I also have about 20 pages in email's from me to perfect power and other SMT-6 distributors. I really think this SMT-6 is awesome, and i'll be buying one in a few months.If i have anymore questions, i'll know who to ask though. ;)

thanks

[tom.supra]

Hello. I've been doing a lot of searching but I have had a hard time finding a straight answer when it comes to injectors for this swap. I have a 89 NA. I want to use larger ones to be on the safe side (tune with safc). I don't think I can use the turbo 440's without placing resistors inline to match imp (5 to 8 ohm resistor with a 20 to 25 watt rating). Is there another type of injector that would work better?
Thanks Tom

[dok33]

It depends on what route you go. For AFC etc. you'll need bigger injectors and from what I've heard the 440's will work if you wire 'em up with the Turbo injector resistor pack. You can also use 88-91 rx7 non-turbo injectors (89+ are plug and play). The best route IMHO (which I think is where jong is heading) is to run the SMT-6 with your stock injectors and an additional injector plumbed to the throttle body. This way you can tune the additional injector with a boost reference and leave the NA portion of your fuel curve alone. Just my $.02

[tom.supra]

Thanks for the info. I'm wary about using extra injectors. I used this on another project once and ran into puddling issues. It damaged a few parts :(

[sjj]

There's a cold start injector already on backside of the throttle body. Can that be used instead of plumbing in another injector? No idea on flow rate...

Cheery,
sj

[dok33]

The cold start injector could work, I've seen people use 'em as extra injectors on turbo omnis, but I'd feel safer running a regular injector. Electromotive has a really nice injector boss that I think would work well.

[Thermactor]

1300 miles on my NA-T and its still running good. Using stock oil cooler return port on my 86.5 N/A by the way, which is 10mm instead of 12.5mm in all the other Supras I have always seen. No smoke out the tailpipe. Boosts nice and smooth now that I did some work on the intercooler pipes. I still have a lot more work to do, but my progress is slow because of how busy I am with work and the fact that I have to drive the car 60-80 miles every day to go to work.

[jong]

nice work therm. I'm glad to hear your success.

Update on my car----
I had to sell my beautiful +1mm valves that i waited 4 weeks for. I got the head milled by Borchardt Speed Shop and finished my p/p job on my head. I removed all the casting lines and imperfections on the intake side, cut the "ledges" where the seat is pressed into the head and widened my bowls a little. I then made the intake side with a 120 grit finish and hit the exhaust side with a buffing wheel. Looks awesome. I then installed my head with a Cometic 1.2mm HG and ARP u/c studs torque'd to 87 Ft/lbs. Then i removed the EGR, fuel pulsation damper, throttle coolant crap, and ACIS. Got her all back together and she started up perfect the first try. Drained the oil, put some new stuff in, and she's running brilliant. Boost dropped to around 8psi from my earlier 11psi. Not sure why. And i'm running super rich all accross the board, which is a good thing because before i was running lean at WOT. I'm just happy she's pullin her own weight again.

ps/ yes, i plan on running the SMT6 with 440's and an additional injector. I'll have more info on my plans later, i'm in the middle of moving right now so the supra is taking a backseat.

[Thermactor]

Hey jong, take some more pictures man!
Here's a picture of my engine in case you guys haven't seen it:
http://www.thermactor.com/supra5.jpg

[jong]

damn therm, thats clean. I'll upload some pics, my friend has most of them on his camera though. i'll through them on in a couple days.

[dok33]

Lookin' good therm... I've got the Cressida back from my wife and a 10:1 FMU sitting in the garage next to a '89 Supra full of turbo parts :bigthumb: Almost time to start project "Temporary (until I get my mkiii running) $200 turbo Cressida" :wtflol: Just need to scrounge up $100 for an EGT gauge so I don't blow up the GE and I'll be good to go :)

Jong, good to hear she's running again! Looks like you need to change your title to "9.2:1 CR @8psi" :stickpoke

[Rob_O]

Hello. I've been doing a lot of searching but I have had a hard time finding a straight answer when it comes to injectors for this swap. I have a 89 NA. I want to use larger ones to be on the safe side (tune with safc). I don't think I can use the turbo 440's without placing resistors inline to match imp (5 to 8 ohm resistor with a 20 to 25 watt rating). Is there another type of injector that would work better?
Thanks Tom



here's some fact:

-ALL turbo cars have a resistor pack.
-ALL <'88 NA cars have a resistor pack.
-ALL '89+ NA cars DO NOT have a resistor pack (high imp. inj.).
-ALL resistor packs are the same.

Useful info for anyone doing a NA-T on a later car. Don't need anyone letting the magic smoke out of their ECU because Toyota decided to change things on us

[jong]

awesome great! thanks Rob O

[Rob_O]

More useful info I figured out this weekend.

The high impedance injector plugs do not fit over the low impedance injectors. I did horrible things to the plugs to get them to fit, I hope my little dab of RTV holds it all together.

The splice for the power line to the injectors (where you need to splice in the resistor box) is located in the general vicinity of the FPR. Cut open the harness in that area and you will see where one wire becomes three.

[Wood_y_wooD]

so after you change all the hardware do you have to get a turbo ecu and turbo harness?

[Mr.Grim87T+86.5N/A]

So I'm Wondering I Just Read This Whole Thread And I Might Have Missed It But You All Are Using Stock Pistons Right? Me I Got A 86.5 That Had A Blown Engine(well ATleast The Guy I Got It From Thouhgt It Did When He Sold It To Me Turns Out It Had A Bhg) And After 2 Years Of Sitting In My Garge I Decided To Rebuilt The Whole Engine From Ground Up And I've Been Thinking Of 2 Over Pistons Will This Help Or Hinder The Na-t Convertion I Now Own A 87t And The 86.5 Na And Was Planing On Upgrading The 87t This Summer And To Be Able To Use Some Of The Parts Out Ofr The 87 Would Be Great But Just Wanted To Ask If This Would Be Better If I Upgraded Pistons

[86SUPRA7mgte]

So I'm Wondering I Just Read This Whole Thread And I Might Have Missed It But You All Are Using Stock Pistons Right? Me I Got A 86.5 That Had A Blown Engine(well ATleast The Guy I Got It From Thouhgt It Did When He Sold It To Me Turns Out It Had A Bhg) And After 2 Years Of Sitting In My Garge I Decided To Rebuilt The Whole Engine From Ground Up And I've Been Thinking Of 2 Over Pistons Will This Help Or Hinder The Na-t Convertion I Now Own A 87t And The 86.5 Na And Was Planing On Upgrading The 87t This Summer And To Be Able To Use Some Of The Parts Out Ofr The 87 Would Be Great But Just Wanted To Ask If This Would Be Better If I Upgraded Pistons

Yeah stock pistons. However, you might want to get a thicker MHG. I also suggest running gte electronics, as it would be much easier to tune with. I've ran the ge on boost with straight ge electronics. It wasn't too bad, just very difficult to tune. Good Luck.

na-t Dave
www.gotboostinc.com

[itsreese]

jong-
are you still running the stock GE injectors? if so how much HP did you get before you had to swap out? just wondering how much HP i can get out of em.

[jong]

unfortunately, I'm not running it at all... I had to sell the supra for financial issues... sucks ass... i know...

To answer your question, NO. GE injectors don't flow as much as you'll need. Get at LEAST the turbo 440 injectors. I wouldn't push those 303(?) cc injectors much further than 0psi. ;) GTE injectors are cheap and available... i'd consider it cheap insurance.

[mk3_4me]

Would it be possible to get 600whp out of a NA-T setup? Obviously I'd need to beef up the internals & such, but what about the compression? Will it get too hot to run?