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83'Mk2L
01-14-2005, 12:31 PM
Ok I've been searching ALOT and reading about oil filter relocation and upgrades to the oil system. I learned quite a lot but also managed to confuse the hell out of myself.

***This is what I want: Move the filter to a remote location and use a bigger filter. I want to increase the oil pressure at least a little bit. Retain the stock cooler if possible (not sure).***

I read in one of the threads that toyota v8 filters work well and are bigger.

I also read that getting rid of the stock GTE filter housing and going with the NA filter stud will increase pressure a little (by getting rid of the stock pressure release housing thingy). Problems is I cant find one, called my toyota dealership and they dont have any. Anyone know where to get one?

With this set up (na filter stud), could I just do away with the stock cooler and go without one for the time being? (read: until I have the money for a nice cooler/thermostat set up) I would then have to cap the return line that goes to the oil pan would I not? What size bolt would I need for that?

The other thing I read was to shim the stock pressure release valve to increase pressure. How would I do this, what exactly do I shim? Diagrams? :P I'm a visual person...

I already orderd a single filter relocator kit from Summit.

Anyone have suggestions about what I should do to achieve my goals? I'm on a fairly tight budget for the time being. Thanks for the help.

Thermactor
01-14-2005, 12:49 PM
1. N/A filter stud. Pull it off a car in the junkyard. Doesn't even have to be a 7M car.
2. Stock oil cooler sucks. Use it to cool your power steering, or something. Then get a big-ass cooler for the oil
3. The shimming thing with the pressure release is worthless, won't help.
4. Why don't you get a PH8A-sized Napa Gold filter, for the relocation kit? Those are as good, maybe better, than the Genuine Toyota Lexus V8 filter.

JT87NA
01-14-2005, 01:13 PM
The bolt to block off the return hole in the oil pan is 12mm X 1.25. Later.

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 03:50 PM
You can run without a cooler now that its winter. Some people don't use them at all, however I dont recommned this. The n/a filter adapter can be oredered from toyota. When useing the n/a adapter the stock adapter is chucked aside and the adapter from summit is used in its palce. First put the na adapter bolt in. Then place the summit adapter on it. Then run your lines to where you want to place the relocated filter mount and you are done. The return was pluged useing the same bolt size and a washer! You may need longer oil pressure hose to relocate it farther than the hose that is supplied. Get this from any place that makes hydraulic lines. I put mine useing push locks to offset the cost. They are working fine. The place that has the lines will have these. I got mine from aeroquip because I needed 45 angled push locks and 90 angled push locks that were not humunguos.
Later you will need the thermostat and cooler, from summit for 90.00 more. The whloe kit is 150.00 or so, and less than 160.00.

Rajunz
01-14-2005, 04:28 PM
Ford V8 filters have the same thread pattern as ours.

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 04:41 PM
True dat Rajunz I have the Ford FLA-1.

BlackDevilSupra
01-14-2005, 05:00 PM
The OE oil filter fitting thread pattern is 18X1.5mm, I'm not sure if the Mustang's is metric. When I ordered my oil filter relocation kit from Perma-Cool, I specifically enquired with the salesperson about an application for Toyota (Supra). Once the package arrived to me, there was a particular plastic bag stamped "TOYOTA" that contained the oil filter bung that screws into the new filter bracket. Unfortunately I forgot the PN. Why the effort, well, I had a box load of Toyota / Lexus oil filters which I think are superior, and did not wish to discard them.
You can see that bung in the center of the pic:
http://ww2.mk3.us:8870/howard/supra/New-Projects-2003/0721_002.jpg

HTH.

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 05:32 PM
The thread pattern is ford 3/4 -16 thread.

Larry_A
01-14-2005, 09:12 PM
With this set up (na filter stud), could I just do away with the stock cooler and go without one for the time being?
NO. The filter will impinge on the turbo using the NA fitting alone.

catch2nd
01-14-2005, 09:49 PM
Originally posted by Larry_A
NO. The filter will impinge on the turbo using the NA fitting alone.

not sure what impinge means??


ALSO... not to hijack but i have been reading alot too about oil cooling

First... i think the relocation kits are a waste b/c 1. yes the filter is a pain to get to but have owned a few hondas, they are worse. 2. There are a lot of fittings that can/will leak 3. It does not gain you all that much in oil capacity...

My plan is to swap to the n/a filter adapter and run a sandwich plate to a beefy oil cooler with an inline thermostate... less plumbing safe from cold oil safer from hot oil....

Am i way off??

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 09:53 PM
I got 2 extra quarts of oil dude and no leaks.

Larry_A
01-14-2005, 10:14 PM
My plan is to swap to the n/a filter adapter and run a sandwich plate to a beefy oil cooler with an inline thermostate... less plumbing safe from cold oil safer from hot oil....

Am i way off??
Yes, you are way off.

IMPINGE:
Pronunciation: im-'pinj
Function: intransitive verb
Inflected Form(s): im·pinged; im·ping·ing
Etymology: Latin impingere, from in- + pangere to fasten, drive in -- more at PACT
1 : to strike or dash especially with a sharp collision

A sandwich plate on the NA fitting won't fu<ing work unless you move the turbo compressor outlet out of the way.

The real waste isn't oil filter relocation, it's the time spent convincing dullards of their own naiveté.

83'Mk2L
01-14-2005, 10:49 PM
Ok here is what I plan to do, based on this info.

Use the summit remote kit and the NA style bung. (will just go to a junk yard and pull one off of any old supra/toyota car, this will work right/) This should clear the compressor housing. Plug the Return line with a 12x1.25 bolt. Run without an oil cooler and remove the stock cooler and lines for the winter. Then get a cooler and thermostat come spring.

Will this work?

chevyeater-on-sf
01-14-2005, 10:53 PM
Haha, nice Larry.

Yeah, an oil filter doesn't fit too well on the turbo engine without either the gay stock thingy or a relocation kit since there is a big hot spinny thing hanging off that side of the engine.
(Set to SF reading comprehension level)

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 11:22 PM
Well we personally know that the sandwich plate doesn't work dont we chevy! Wzup dude. Larry A. I didn't knowed you was back. Wzup teacher. Anyone seen dat Lorenzo guy. He was easier on da kidz.lol j/k

QWIKSTRIKE
01-14-2005, 11:28 PM
I believe it will be fine 83mk2l. However it will get hot under there with the turbo heating the oil. Therefore come spring I would have that cooler lined up. Aslo since its only 160.00 for the whole kit why not just do it all at once.

catch2nd
01-15-2005, 05:26 AM
IMPINGE:
Pronunciation: im-'pinj
Function: intransitive verb
Inflected Form(s): im·pinged; im·ping·ing
Etymology: Latin impingere, from in- + pangere to fasten, drive in -- more at PACT
1 : to strike or dash especially with a sharp collision

A sandwich plate on the NA fitting won't fu<ing work unless you move the turbo compressor outlet out of the way.

The real waste isn't oil filter relocation, it's the time spent convincing dullards of their own naiveté.

not to start i fight here.... but i like to think myself a littler smarter then a dullard BUT in no way do I have as much knowledge about these cars as a lot of you in the forum.....

with that being said and with my acceptance that the oil filter will infact hit the turbo with a sandwich installed.... then i will be force to run a relocation kit.... this leads me to another question then.....

Is it best to hook the oil cooler inlto the same cirucit with the relocation kit? or can you then run a sandwich with the extra room left by not having a filter by the turbo?

thanks for the help.... please forgive my inexperience

NavyCuda
01-15-2005, 05:28 AM
the lexus filter is not that big... the 22R filter is pretty big, you can get a ph8A I believe it is, which is significantly larger than the normal ph8... well lenthwise at least.

I've thought about a relocating kit, and an oil cooler for my Z...

dziuggy
01-15-2005, 09:36 AM
well i deicided to run big k&n oil filter with my relocation kit, but i am still on stock cooler

catch2nd
01-15-2005, 05:52 PM
that would be nice.... maybe something for the FAQ section

87MA70Turbo
01-18-2005, 03:55 PM
Well, I'll slightly adapt what I've done for my 3S-GTE and give the basics of what I required. There are some items, like the hose, that will be unique for every installation.

spin on block adaptor 3/4-16
remote oil filter adaptor 3/4-16
Tru-Cool 27 (approx) row oil cooler
-8AN to 1/2NPT fittings (qty 9)
-8AN hose ends (qty 8)
-8AN to 1/2NPT 90 degree fitting (qty 1)
-8AN hose (braided or not, your choice)
-8AN 90 degree hose ends (qty2)

All parts ordered from Racer Parts Wholesale online or Eyerly Racing (local shop to me).

If you want to go remote with the supra, you're going want to go with a spin-on adaptor, and 90 degree hose ends, to get the hose away from the turbo. Not alot of room in there to move things around.

If the hose ends are installed properly, and connected to the fittings properly, you should not have any leaks. I don't have any. Keep in mind that if you are sealing fittings to anything, to use liquid teflon pipe sealant. Teflon tape can be cut by the threads and get loose into the oil system. If there's an interest, I'll post a photo of what my oil system came out to look like when I was done.

Will

BoostAddctn
01-18-2005, 04:08 PM
I noticed on my block with the sandwich adapter it wouldn't allow clearance for the oil cooler lines (stock oil filter housing removed), so I drew this up at like 3am while in the garage trying to finish my crap up, but I am sure this set up would work also:
http://boostaddctn.sobig.cc/BASgarage/reloc.JPG
aight peace :chicken:

BoostAddctn
01-18-2005, 04:10 PM
Originally posted by 87MA70Turbo
...If the hose ends are installed properly, and connected to the fittings properly, you should not have any leaks. I don't have any. Keep in mind that if you are sealing fittings to anything, to use liquid teflon pipe sealant. Teflon tape can be cut by the threads and get loose into the oil system. If there's an interest, I'll post a photo of what my oil system came out to look like when I was done.

Will

I believe since they are -AN fittings, there is no need for teflon tape or any other sealant because of the way the threads are designed, i've ran all -AN fittings dry with no sealant so far and no leaks yet ;) aight peace :chicken:

87MA70Turbo
01-18-2005, 05:04 PM
you know bert, you're right. but what I was referring to was on the 1/2NPT part interfacing to the screw on adapters and cooler and such..

Will

catch2nd
01-18-2005, 05:27 PM
Originally posted by BoostAddctn
I noticed on my block with the sandwich adapter it wouldn't allow clearance for the oil cooler lines (stock oil filter housing removed), so I drew this up at like 3am while in the garage trying to finish my crap up, but I am sure this set up would work also:
http://boostaddctn.sobig.cc/BASgarage/reloc.JPG
aight peace :chicken:

This is great.... just what i was looking for... BUT you still need to get an NA filter adapter to eliminate the original oil cooler llines right? Also.... you could run the sandwich at to block or at filter right?
And finally... what type of thermostat for the cooler do you guys use / recomend

Juhanis
01-18-2005, 09:18 PM
bert, that diagram although helpful looks retarded :p ahhh you know i'm just giving you a hard time :D

pmpaluda
01-18-2005, 09:35 PM
I've got the Summit, single filter kit as well.

With the NA adaptor connected to the block and sandwich oil filter relo adaptor... I have 1 line running to the IN of the oil filter (under pass. headlight), the OUT to the IN of the oil cooler front side of the NPR IC, then from the OUT line back to the sandwich adaptor on the block.

Shortens lines, increases pressure (or provides more constant pressure), and definatly cleans things up nicely!

Its currently all ripped out and being replaced with SS lines and Earl's fittings. :)

BoostAddctn
01-19-2005, 05:20 AM
Originally posted by catch2nd
This is great.... just what i was looking for... BUT you still need to get an NA filter adapter to eliminate the original oil cooler llines right? Also.... you could run the sandwich at to block or at filter right?
And finally... what type of thermostat for the cooler do you guys use / recomend

I am using the MOCAL sandwich adapter and I am using a NA block, so it already has a NA stud you guys are referring to, which is just a 3/4- 16 approx. 1.5" long stud :), but I tried running the sand. adapt. right at the stud but it wouldn't clear my oil cooler lines, so instead I put the relocation adapter to the block and the sand. where the oil filter housing part of the relocation is and it seems to work fine there :) aight peace :chicken:

catch2nd
01-19-2005, 09:08 AM
Originally posted by pmpaluda
I've got the Summit, single filter kit as well.

With the NA adaptor connected to the block and sandwich oil filter relo adaptor... I have 1 line running to the IN of the oil filter (under pass. headlight), the OUT to the IN of the oil cooler front side of the NPR IC, then from the OUT line back to the sandwich adaptor on the block.

Shortens lines, increases pressure (or provides more constant pressure), and definatly cleans things up nicely!

Its currently all ripped out and being replaced with SS lines and Earl's fittings. :)

So basically you have the return on the oil filter relocation on the block plugged and the feed / out of the sandwich plugged right? This makes it impossible to run a thermostat right from the sounds of it... what sandwich are you using?

83'Mk2L
01-19-2005, 09:35 AM
This is a great thread. So much useful information here.

I got my summit kit and will be putting it on tomorrow evening.

Chris

NJsupraA70
01-19-2005, 11:23 AM
Originally posted by BoostAddctn
I am using the MOCAL sandwich adapter and I am using a NA block, so it already has a NA stud you guys are referring to, which is just a 3/4- 16 approx. 1.5" long stud :), but I tried running the sand. adapt. right at the stud but it wouldn't clear my oil cooler lines, so instead I put the relocation adapter to the block and the sand. where the oil filter housing part of the relocation is and it seems to work fine there :) aight peace :chicken:


thanx. this is what im gonnado .

also: for anyone wondering about a thermostat, I bought the mocal sandwich adapter with built in thermostat that opens at 180deg. It goes for about $80.

pmpaluda
01-19-2005, 12:08 PM
Originally posted by catch2nd
So basically you have the return on the oil filter relocation on the block plugged and the feed / out of the sandwich plugged right? This makes it impossible to run a thermostat right from the sounds of it... what sandwich are you using?

Well, I have no intentions of running a thermo on the oil.... don't really see the need/purpose for it.

If you wanted too... it'd be a cake walk to add the thermo in between the oil cooler OUT and sandwich IN line (basically the same as already stated somewhere in this thread).

This is the sandwich adaptor I am using (couldn't find any "aready" posted pic's):

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/prm-10695.jpg

NJsupraA70
01-19-2005, 12:39 PM
Originally posted by pmpaluda
Well, I have no intentions of running a thermo on the oil.... don't really see the need/purpose for it.

If you wanted too... it'd be a cake walk to add the thermo in between the oil cooler OUT and sandwich IN line (basically the same as already stated somewhere in this thread).

This is the sandwich adaptor I am using (couldn't find any "aready" posted pic's):

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/prm-10695.jpg


hmm. maybe i will use that kit, along with the mocal sandwich adapter. I wonder if those rubber lines will suffice for now.

p.s I dont see any sandwich adapters in that pic.

pmpaluda
01-19-2005, 12:43 PM
Originally posted by njsupramk3t
p.s I dont see any sandwich adapters in that pic.

The left side adaptor is what I refferred to as a "sandwich" adaptor in the pic. What do you think it should look like?

smooth3d
01-19-2005, 02:32 PM
Anyone have pics of their install? Reading the above posts, it seems there are various ways of implementing this setup. Is there an "optimal" setup? My operating conditions would be lots of heat (Florida sun baby) and constant runs on the street at hopefully 10-13psi.

NJsupraA70
01-19-2005, 03:10 PM
Originally posted by pmpaluda
The left side adaptor is what I refferred to as a "sandwich" adaptor in the pic. What do you think it should look like?

a sandwich adapter would go between the "left" side adapter in your pic and the oil filter

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/heedah007/menu_sub1.jpg

catch2nd
01-19-2005, 03:23 PM
Originally posted by pmpaluda
Well, I have no intentions of running a thermo on the oil.... don't really see the need/purpose for it.

If you wanted too... it'd be a cake walk to add the thermo in between the oil cooler OUT and sandwich IN line (basically the same as already stated somewhere in this thread).

This is the sandwich adaptor I am using (couldn't find any "aready" posted pic's):

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/prm-10695.jpg

wouldn't that stop oil flow if the thermostat was closed???

Larry_A
01-19-2005, 07:14 PM
Originally posted by catch2nd
wouldn't that stop oil flow if the thermostat was closed???
No.
Oil t-stats by-pass the flow when below op temp, not stop it.

NJsupraA70
01-19-2005, 07:16 PM
Originally posted by Larry_A
No.
Oil t-stats by-pass the flow when below op temp, not stop it.

:agreed:

catch2nd
01-19-2005, 07:50 PM
Originally posted by Larry_A
No.
Oil t-stats by-pass the flow when below op temp, not stop it.

right, i understand that... but he plumbed a circular system.... out of filter to cooler back to motor... so the cooler was in the return line? this is pmpaluda's setup BTW, i understand how the thermo works with Berts setup as the cooler has a seperate feed and return

pmpaluda
01-19-2005, 08:07 PM
Originally posted by njsupramk3t
a sandwich adapter would go between the "left" side adapter in your pic and the oil filter

Really? I guess it all depends on how you want to define a "sandwich adaptor". Via a google search ( http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=sandwich+adaptor ) you get numerious types...

Specifically... I see no physical diff. between what I thought was a sandwich adaptor vs. this image: http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/adapters/oil_cooler_sandwich.html (2nd 1 down).

:) :) :) :) :)

They are both "sandwiched" vs. the hollow bolt that connects the OEM filter housing to the block, at least on a turbo vehicle with an oil cooler.

Larry_A
01-19-2005, 09:33 PM
Originally posted by catch2nd
not to start i fight here.... but i like to think myself a littler smarter then a dullard BUT in no way do I have as much knowledge about these cars as a lot of you in the forum.....

with that being said and with my acceptance that the oil filter will infact hit the turbo with a sandwich installed.... then i will be force to run a relocation kit.... this leads me to another question then.....

Is it best to hook the oil cooler inlto the same cirucit with the relocation kit? or can you then run a sandwich with the extra room left by not having a filter by the turbo?

thanks for the help.... please forgive my inexperience
Sorry, I only respond like that when I have to say the same thing twice. And a sincere attempt at seriousness usually brings me back. Thank you.

Here is the layout I've devised, based upon conversations with AdamH [DocJonez] & DeanM. This setup guarantees full flow to oil cooler based upon temp, & no pressure bleed as on the OEM turbo oil filter mount, meaning noticeable pressure increase from OEM. Not shown: the drain into the oil pan must be plugged.

http://oldschool.supracentral.com/modfest/oil/oil_cooling_final.jpg

Thus far, I have only been collecting pieces for this oiling system- I'm not using a kit, but rather individual components. Canton 1/2" NPT interfaces for block/filter mounts, Mocal -10AN t-stat, AeroQuip -10AN push-lok hose/fittings, & Setrab -10AN cooler.

Heh, I'm still deciding where to put it all, & when. These cars are a process, a plan. Other mods need to be considered- a big bumper going on will make more space, so fitting it all together will take time...away from other things. If I didn't have to rebuild the fence & fix plumbing, it sure would happen quicker! LOL.

Take care.

catch2nd
01-20-2005, 04:16 AM
goooood choice on oil coolers.... I race a Legends Car and Setrab is the only on that takes the abuse and keeps the engine cool.

I think i am going to plumb my setup like that one ^^^ or with a sandwich at the car as both of those setups allow for a thermo and i have read a lot of articals talking about cold oil being worse for your engine then oil that it too hot

QWIKSTRIKE
01-20-2005, 04:57 AM
I did mine like the diagram with the push locks like L.A. is doing his. I used the B&M oil cooler which is 8.5x11x1.5. I used the B&M oil thermostat. This B&M cooler is of eccellent quality and is only 59.00. I believe it holds about a quart of oil.

NJsupraA70
01-20-2005, 11:18 AM
Originally posted by Larry_A
Sorry, I only respond like that when I have to say the same thing twice. And a sincere attempt at seriousness usually brings me back. Thank you.

Here is the layout I've devised, based upon conversations with AdamH [DocJonez] & DeanM. This setup guarantees full flow to oil cooler based upon temp, & no pressure bleed as on the OEM turbo oil filter mount, meaning noticeable pressure increase from OEM. Not shown: the drain into the oil pan must be plugged.

http://oldschool.supracentral.com/modfest/oil/oil_cooling_final.jpg

Thus far, I have only been collecting pieces for this oiling system- I'm not using a kit, but rather individual components. Canton 1/2" NPT interfaces for block/filter mounts, Mocal -10AN t-stat, AeroQuip -10AN push-lok hose/fittings, & Setrab -10AN cooler.

Heh, I'm still deciding where to put it all, & when. These cars are a process, a plan. Other mods need to be considered- a big bumper going on will make more space, so fitting it all together will take time...away from other things. If I didn't have to rebuild the fence & fix plumbing, it sure would happen quicker! LOL.

Take care.


thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

figgie
01-20-2005, 11:45 AM
yeah the way Larry A has is what i went with. Easiest and keeps the oil warm enough to get the condensation out of the oil but not to warm where it starts burning the oil up. :)

83'Mk2L
01-20-2005, 11:39 PM
I did my relocation today. Went fairly smoothly. Getting the big bolt on the stock oil filter mount/housing to crack loose was a bitch... had to find a nice big wrench and clime in the engine bay (I'm a really small guy) and kick the hell out of the wrench to crack it loose. Aside of that, it wasn't hard. Mounted the filter where the ABS and charcoal canister normally are. Now all I need is a sandwhich adaptor and a nice oil cooler and I'm set. Pressure is definitely up after taking off the stock mount thingy. Definitely a good mod.

Chris

ae86R
06-02-2005, 11:55 PM
perma-cool sells a oil filter relocation kit with an oil cooler.
http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page07.html

im sure you could use just about any relocation kit and hook up an oil cooler like in the pic.

evil_shenron
01-28-2006, 02:50 PM
larry where can i buy all of the stuff you used and where is a good spot for the filter when u relocate it...i think this is a great set-up but i just need a lil guidence to get a better idea. if you could help me out that would be great

bondango
01-28-2006, 04:10 PM
Larry i like doing things the easy way lol just seen this kit and its a very good price.

* Oil Cooler Tank size : length 29cm , height 14cm , thickness : 5cm , 19 rows
* 3pcs Reinforce Stainless steel hoses, 1.2 m , 1.4m , 1.6m length each
* CNC Aluminum inodized oil adapter x 1 , 2 inlets , 2 outlets
* Stylish Choice, Universal fit on all Japanese cars.
* 2 oil adaptor screws to fit all Japanese cars.

http://i9.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/e8/f7/65_1_b.JPG

seems a good price at around $240...but will it do?

ALPINSUPRA
01-30-2006, 12:26 AM
good info.
-sean

evil_shenron
01-30-2006, 10:28 PM
where did u see that?

bondango
01-31-2006, 12:11 PM
ebay :-)

Zach90Turbo
01-31-2006, 08:08 PM
Well, I have no intentions of running a thermo on the oil.... don't really see the need/purpose for it.

The purpose is to get the engine to optimum operating temperature as soon as possible(and keep it in that range), the same reason there's a thermostat on the cooling system. My sister's old M Roadster had an oil temp gauge, and it takes a bit longer for the oil to get to a proper temperature than the coolant, I always kept a closer eye on the oil temp than the coolant temp as it was more indicative of whether the engine had warmed up or not.

Monza
03-30-2006, 01:13 AM
I got the greddy oil relocation kit, but I'm not sure which is the IN and OUT ports on the adapters. How would I route everything using the greddy kit, a thermostat, and an oil cooler?(not w/ sandwich adapter)
One line FROM the engine to the filter adapter, from the filter adapter to the thermostat, from the thermostat to the cooler, from the cooler to the thermostat, and from the thermostat to the engine?

Here is a pic that I found, this is another members pic, but I have the same kit.


PIC: http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f385/Captainnut/fd4c4278.jpg

catch2nd
03-30-2006, 09:20 AM
OUT of engine to IN of filter, OUT of filter to IN of thermo, OUT of thermo to IN of Cooler, OUT of cooler, back throught the thermo and back into the engine

DeanMarcum
03-30-2006, 09:39 AM
Outside port from block adaper to outside port on filter adapter---middle port on filter adapter to upper thermo port (side 1)--upper thermo port (side 2) to oil cooler--oil cooler 2nd port to lower thermo port (side 2 [same side as the line running to the cooler])---thermo port side 1 to center port on block adapter.

Hope that makes sense.

Monza
03-30-2006, 09:44 AM
Outside port from block adaper to outside port on filter adapter---middle port on filter adapter to upper thermo port (side 1)--upper thermo port (side 2) to oil cooler--oil cooler 2nd port to lower thermo port (side 2 [same side as the line running to the cooler])---thermo port side 1 to center port on block adapter.

Hope that makes sense.

For some reason it didn't let me see your post till now :scratch: anyways, that clears it up, thanks :)

Back2Basics
03-31-2006, 11:58 AM
Well just on a side note for anybody looking for a kit. The kit from HPF isnt really cheaper than the other ones. The two $30 kits are only the adapters. For the entire kit it is part number 102990 (the $60 one). Nothin against HPF or tryin to take business away, just thought I'd clear it up for anyone looking like I was.

89targaturbo
04-26-2006, 02:04 AM
a

skaterjunky8
05-23-2006, 09:54 PM
I have a question does the oil go from the center of the filter out to the sides or out the sides and into the center of the filter?

idrivetoys
06-04-2006, 06:50 PM
ill get pics of my oil filter relocation kit sometime tomorrow, might help some

pramiscal
06-05-2006, 08:11 PM
I've been using a Amsoil BE-90 bypass kit. It allows aprox. 1.5 quarts to the stock system. I have it mounted in front of the condensor where air hits it, thus lowering the temp a little I'm sure. I have noticed no oil pressure drop, and this system filters down to 1 micron, allowing you to change synthectic once every 25K if using Amsoil. HMmmm, you may say, but after 10K and pulling the dipstick out and seeing almost clear oil, its rather amazing. Kit is inexpensive really. Just thought I would throw it out there

QWIKSTRIKE
06-06-2006, 07:08 AM
1. N/A filter stud. Pull it off a car in the junkyard. Doesn't even have to be a 7M car.
2. Stock oil cooler sucks. Use it to cool your power steering, or something. Then get a big-ass cooler for the oil
3. The shimming thing with the pressure release is worthless, won't help.4. Why don't you get a PH8A-sized Napa Gold filter, for the relocation kit? Those are as good, maybe better, than the Genuine Toyota Lexus V8 filter.


I shimmed with the crush washers from the smaller water jacket banjo bolt, and now i get 100 psi on start up, and it settles down to 22 psi at idle. When hot I cruise at 35psi at 2000 rpms and 40 psi at 2500rpms. I shiimed a new oil pump by the way! I also used dual oil filter mounts to add xtra oil volume. My oil coooler is the B&M 70266 and it holds a quart and the mobile 1 301 oil filters hold a quart of oil eah also.

skaterjunky8
06-07-2006, 02:22 AM
I managed to run a Permacool universal kit and an FC3s stock Front mount OIl cooler, and I can run about 6.5 quarts and a stock none shimmed pump runs it fine.

idrivetoys
07-02-2006, 07:07 PM
ill get pics of my oil filter relocation kit sometime tomorrow, might help some


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v127/idrivetoys/MX73%20swap/oillines.jpg

88TargaRose
07-03-2006, 12:41 PM
So...
After reading this thread, I'm still confused as crap.


I've got the Perma-Cool setup sitting in my lap, but I've only got the stock GTE Oil/Block related parts..


So, what do I actually need from the N/A? Does this part (stud?) disable the factory oil cooler? Do I need an aftermarket one to make my kit work? Alll the criss-cross information in this thread has me thoroughly confused.

MKNTRAXX
08-06-2006, 05:34 PM
Just adding to this late.. thought

The piston squirters have a spring ball valve in them so at a certain pressure they overcome the spring and squirt the pistons.. This has all probably been designed by toyota that at a certain pressure thats reached within an area and above it of the engines RPMs they open and squirt the piston. Now wouldn't your be doing it just about all the time now.. and is that really a good idea???

DusTySupraMK3
08-14-2006, 03:26 AM
where would be a good place to tap for oil temp? before the cooler, after?? or somewhere else around the motor?

88TargaRose
08-29-2006, 10:12 AM
Depends on the oil temp you're going to try and read. It makes sense to me that you want the temp leaving the engine entering the oil cooler. THOUGH it would also be nice to see Oil Return Temps too.

As for me, I got it all figured out.

Since you can't use the GTE angled Filter Adapter, I needed the N/A Union (Part# - 15600A) (http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/EPC/figures/MA6093A.gif), all things said and done it was cheaper to just order it from Toyota than to drive (and pay for gas) from junkyard to junkyard and then pay for the part. It was something like ~$7.40+Tax.

Now, since my kit was listed as 'Universal' the hole for the "To Block" plate was large. They supply several thread-on fittings to adadpt the union to the plate's size. I ended up using the largest fitting and it fit perfectly. The "To Block" plate screws onto the adapted-size union, then you run your hoses where need be.

And the obligitory, non-detail showing photo:
http://www.turboninjas.com/gallery/d/17769-2/oil_filter_relocation_kit.jpg

All things said and done, it's cost me like $55-60. Best Sub-$100 I've done to this car.

NashMan
10-19-2006, 03:40 AM
why does every one hate the stock oiling system so much as in the bye pass it does fine job for what it is ment to do. i can under stand if you wana be lazy and get a filter relocation

just bigger stock cooler will do the job
this is diffent in less you wana incresa oil persure thou witch i don't think is needed on stock rebuild on stock clearnces can be very bad thing

remmber the stock cooler only really work's at wot or heavy rpm witch is a good thing


alot of oem cars use by passes even the fancy ones




????????

DusTySupraMK3
11-03-2006, 12:35 PM
Where did u get ur oil filter relocator? What are the corrects measurments. coz i read somewhere in this thread 3/4 16 and so i bought this TRD-1120 from summit and its the wrong size can, anyone help me out and direct me to the correct relocator , coz i need to setup my oil cooler. by the way i have the NA union stud only like nine bucks at toyota

lilpeenoiracer
11-07-2006, 01:46 AM
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TRD%2D1113&autofilter=1&N=115+4294817872+4294908331+4294840126&autoview=sku

Wolfpac251
03-29-2007, 10:05 PM
Anyone Aside from me using a 2nd gen rx7 oil cooler? They are huge...

badboysupra
04-30-2007, 02:15 AM
Just adding to this late.. thought

The piston squirters have a spring ball valve in them so at a certain pressure they overcome the spring and squirt the pistons.. This has all probably been designed by toyota that at a certain pressure thats reached within an area and above it of the engines RPMs they open and squirt the piston. Now wouldn't your be doing it just about all the time now.. and is that really a good idea???


8 months later, nobody hasnt really answered your question...

anywayz, I can still live with the stock oil filter location. but what I'm goin to do is just replace the smaller oil cooler w/ a bigger one.

Toyota engineers are smarter than us, so I'll just try to keep everything as OEM as possible.


aite, peace.

badboysupra
04-30-2007, 02:21 AM
Anyone Aside from me using a 2nd gen rx7 oil cooler? They are huge...

those are overkill. they only work on Rotary engines for a reason. I knew some guys out here that puts those big ass oil coolers on their AE86's. which (I think) is not a very good idea because it alters the stock oil pressure plus it takes more time for the oil to circulate inside the engine.

so I'll just go for a decent sized Oil cooler, but a little bigger than the stock ones. IMHO.


aite, peace.

xsupra87x2jzx
05-02-2007, 08:38 AM
[QUOTE=Larry_A;2685070]
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/modfest/oil/oil_cooling_final.jpg

QUOTE]

I am kinda slow and it took me sevaral times reading this tread to understand how to run the system. I remember seeing a thread where some one was running an Accusump system that held 2 quarts and would plumb oil in at a certain presure. How would you plump that back into the system?