would a loose belt tensioner cause the car to stall? [Archive] - Supraforums.com

: would a loose belt tensioner cause the car to stall?

08-20-2005, 08:14 PM
This just started happenng yesterday and today (it's alot worse today after the new belt)

Last night the car would stall out for no good reseaon. But I syuspected it was the AC ,cause it would seems to stall after I switched on the AC. After shutting down the car and turning the AC off, I was able to restart it.

there was a faint sqeating noise, I figured it was the serphintine belt, cause when I did my 60k timing belt job the serpentine belt wasn't changed cause the box of parts I ordered had included the wrong belt, they sent me the belt for a SC400 :rolleyes:
not sc300 2jz doh!

So did the belt today, took like 15 minutes
but the tensioner's marks don't lin up
There are 3 marks on the tensioner unit, and it' lined up to the mark on the left, instead of the middle.

Curious thing is that after swaping the new belt in it kept stalling, I would be able to start it after the engine cooled a bit, and run it for maybe a few minutes. then it would stall again.

from the drivers seat I can see the rpm guage just fall like a rock :dunno:

any suggestions????

I'll prolly bring the car into the shop and have them replace the tensioner this week.
BUt I'm not sure if that would fix the problem, not sure what else could be wrong.

I even swapped out my MSD 6BTM which was recently installed back to the toyota factory ignition, and still nothing, it would still stall.................
any one??

08-20-2005, 08:38 PM
If you can replace the belt, you can replace the belt tensioner without putting it into the shop. It is only 3 bolts.

Here is the shop manual pages...


here is the link to a larger scan of the page


With what the manual says, If you have a Type A belt tensioner and your new belt is in the "B" area, as I think you are stating.....you are ok.

08-20-2005, 08:42 PM
any codes being generated??

08-20-2005, 09:28 PM
thanks WhiteBlazze,

yeah I have the Type A tensioner, and my mark is not in the center,
it is off center toward the left (passenger side) so it's a little loose.

But still I find it odd that my car will stall more with the AC on,
then off. that what lead me to believe it was a loose belt.
But I've been reading, even if the belt snapped, tha car should not stall...... :dunno:
it will overheat and the lights will dim..........

so I'm back to Square one :(

fukcing car is pissing me off :rolleyes: :rant:
argh.... :(

Anyone else think what I should check next?

I dind't check the codes, yet
actually it never occure to me, cause my check engine light has always been one after I went NA-T :dunno:

btw: the 2 wires that lead to the factory coil, anyone know where they get the signal from??? maybe I'm getting a bad ignition signal???
cause i know I have fuel reaching the cylinders...........

08-20-2005, 09:35 PM
Check the codes...see what your getting.

Read the page again....if you installed a new belt and the marks are between the center and passenger mark your fine! As long as the mark is between the 2 outside marks your fine.

Your right, you could actually start your car without the belt even on for a little bit...until ur battery died or your engine overheats...whichever comes first.

You could be having a problem with the AC compressor clutch. Sounds like it may be messed up, and when the clutch engages when you turn the AC on it causes the engine to die because the clutch / pulley assembly.

When my AC clutch siezed up on my truck, it caused the belt to not be able to turn freely and stoped the engine from being able tp start with the belt on.

Could also be your idle is too low and when the AC kicks in the rpms drop down enough to where it stalls. That could be your TPS.

AS far as the coil wires.....1 should be the ground and 1 should be from the ECU. I'll check the wiring book and let you know if its different.

08-21-2005, 01:27 AM
thanks again WhiteBlazze :bigthumb:

curious, that 2 wires leading to the coil come from the ecu.
I would have guessed that the coil needs more juice then what the ecu could supply; I mean it does have to supply power to the spark plugs.
you would think they would need to draw more power, and thicker wires too.

But the wire from the coil to the distributor is pretty skinny too
guess you don't need much juice to fire a spark on a plug?

thanks for the pic,
I'll see if they have a tensionor at Autozone, but I doubt it.
But at this point I don't think it's the cause of the stalling.
I'll pull codes tomorrow and post back the results

08-21-2005, 08:28 AM
ok...from the wiring manual...

1 wire is from the ground from the igniter

1 wire is the positive from a 30A fuse via the ignition switch

and ofcourse the coil wire from the coil to the distributor


The coil does not NEED a lot of juice...infact it can only be supplied with 12volts. It produces far more volts than what it is fed, and then shoots it to the distributor to fire each plug.

Some aftermarket coils can produce 40,000volts and more!! A HKS DLI, MSD or AEM can aslo help to improve the amount of juice that is sent to the distributor

08-21-2005, 06:30 PM
Hey WhiteBlazze
got the codes as I figured somehting to do with ignition, wasn't expecting code 14
I knew I'd get code 27 for have no cat
not sure about 52, konck sensor does that mean I'm getting bad knock now??

I have NO idea what 55 is, it's not listed on the toublecode
page at http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

14, Ignition signal
27, sub oxygen sensor signal
52, knock sensor signal
55 ?????


08-21-2005, 10:00 PM
I have NO idea what 55 is, it's not listed on the toublecode
page at http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

14, Ignition signal
27, sub oxygen sensor signal
52, knock sensor signal
55 ?????

55, knock sensor signal (rear side)


08-21-2005, 11:47 PM
55, knock sensor signal (rear side)


thanks! :bigthumb:

now, anyone care to guess what I need to change out or fix now?? :dunno:

I've tried both my MSD and stock coils,

think it could be the stock ignition module? guess it's sending a bad signal to the coil....... hence error #14
or could a bad distributor cause that?

08-22-2005, 12:27 AM
Do you have the Toyota Shop manuals?? If not get them. In volume 1, it breaks down each code and how to figure out what is wrong and how to fix it.

It is not a bad distributor....but you may want to check the distributor cap and rotor and make sure they are in good shape.

DTC 14 Ignition Signal Circuit

Possible causes
Open or short in IGF circuit from ignitor to ECU

Similar possible causes for the other codes too...being shorts. I would check all the grounds, connectors, and ECU harness as well. I would check the knock sensors and O2 and see if they are bad. If they are not, then you more than likely have a short somewhere, or a bad ECU.

08-22-2005, 12:35 AM
funny thing the problem seems to be temperature dependant, I think the ignitor is going bad......... the wiring checked out ok
I saw an old post on CL apparently the MDS units have been know to damage the factory ignitor, maybe that is what caused it to act up.....

08-28-2005, 12:02 AM
in case anyone is interested, or for future reference in case osmeone has the same problem.
I changed out the Ignitor (igniter?) and it started up fine :bigthumb:

Autozone wanted $315 for it!!!! :eek3:

I got it on ebay for $40 shipped via priority

some junk yards had it for $25, but they only shipped via ups ground :(

08-28-2005, 09:23 AM
Cool beans!!!