View Full Version : Stage 5 Billet Axles
8secsupra
09-13-2006, 07:49 PM
If your snapping axles like we did, you'll appreciate an upgrade that WONT break. These are CNC machined axles with upgraded universal joints and more splines. Requires sending in your rear hubs for re-machining to accommodate the larger diameter shaft and more splines.
KumiJr
09-13-2006, 08:04 PM
SICK!
Good to know. Might break a few soon :)
Rotarytoy
09-15-2006, 09:43 PM
Can we get a rough estimate on price or is this something I need to call you directly for?
TIA
8secsupra
09-16-2006, 12:24 PM
Can we get a rough estimate on price or is this something I need to call you directly for?
TIA
Nope, they are on our website. Price is $2800 a pair with hubs and axles. I require your hubs as cores, since we re-drill the stock ones.
Thanks
TECHNOSUPRA
09-16-2006, 04:09 PM
Have the issues with these axles been resolved? These are the identical units I am running now and the length on one side was awful and would not fit without machining it. Wasted so much of my time it almost defeated the purpose of buying a set rather then machining my own. The 3 letter dirty word company (aap) that had them made did nothing to resolve the issue for me and as such I will never purchase a product from them again.
I am working on my 3rd supra now which is why I ask if these still have fitment issues.
8secsupra
09-17-2006, 09:32 AM
Have the issues with these axles been resolved? These are the identical units I am running now and the length on one side was awful and would not fit without machining it. Wasted so much of my time it almost defeated the purpose of buying a set rather then machining my own. The 3 letter dirty word company (aap) that had them made did nothing to resolve the issue for me and as such I will never purchase a product from them again.
I am working on my 3rd supra now which is why I ask if these still have fitment issues.
I dont buy them from AAP, rather, we buy from the company that manufactures them direct. I've fitted several sets myself, and havent had any fitment issues. I do know the original mock-up was done for the auto cars, and the axle length is longer on the auto axles than 6 speed. If your car is 6 speed, that could be the issue. Since these were designed and developed for drag racing applications, most full drag cars are auto cars, hence the design based off the auto differential. If you have a six speed, you'll need to have the axle turned down about 1/4" to fit the wider 6 speed diff. I can do this here for you or you can have it done locally. But so far all of the sets we've sold have gone on auto cars.
Thanks,
TECHNOSUPRA
09-17-2006, 11:11 PM
The car the shafts are on is a drag specific Automatic (TH400). They did not fit at all on the Auto diff and required extensive machining. Never tried it on a 6 speed, nor would I want to.
Thanks for the auto drag racing tip, never would have figured that out on my own. ...
upgradedsupra
10-29-2006, 09:27 AM
Why are guys running 7's and 8's with OEM axles and not replacing them? Is Ryan not running OEM still? I know a few guys running stockers and are fine? :ugh2:
Duane
I run OEM Axles. My axles are the original ones from Toyota put in from the factory in 1998. I have never broken an axle in any Supra.
Some people do though....
8secsupra
10-29-2006, 10:17 AM
Why are guys running 7's and 8's with OEM axles and not replacing them? Is Ryan not running OEM still? I know a few guys running stockers and are fine? :ugh2:
Duane
Depends on how hard the car is launching. Ryan's car is damn fast, but he's not doing the 60' times of our car and other auto cars. Our car was leaving at 6500 RPM on NOS and cutting 1.27 60' times, we broke many stock axles until we started making these. Just depends on the car, the setup, etc.. It would be scary to run stock axles on a 7 second car personally IMO...
carchitect
11-28-2006, 06:57 PM
When you break axles they always go in the center link. So why not just have a beefier pair of center links made from 300M steel, order new boot kits from toyota and transfer the outer and inner c/v joints over instead? Future servicing of the axles will be no different than an OEM axle. I was planning on disassembling my axles and sending off the center links to have a set of 300M steel axles from Mark Williams. I'm trying to see the advantage to having complete replacement axles over my original intentions.
-Joe
8secsupra
11-28-2006, 07:44 PM
When you break axles they always go in the center link. So why not just have a beefier pair of center links made from 300M steel, order new boot kits from toyota and transfer the outer and inner c/v joints over instead? Future servicing of the axles will be no different than an OEM axle. I was planning on disassembling my axles and sending off the center links to have a set of 300M steel axles from Mark Williams. I'm trying to see the advantage to having complete replacement axles over my original intentions.
-Joe
That sounds much easier than it really is, believe me. I've had them apart and its just not worth replacing just the shaft, because you still have the weak stock CV joints and hubs. Our first design was just a replacement inner with no hub, but then stress found the next weakest link... the hubs. Once it sheared off the inner race of the hub, next time it just sheared the entire shaft at the hub. Now, we make the ENTIRE assembly as one piece, and haven't broken anything since. The CV joints are beefed up and the hubs are heavy duty with more splines to distribute the load better. This is as good as it gets, a complete replacement axle set that even carries a full warranty against breakage. To me, cutting off and re-welding the stock CV joints and hubs seems like a waste of time. You'll just break the next weakest link in the chain.
Thanks,
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