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****Tech Article: Brad's Engine Detail Secrets!

74K views 206 replies 69 participants last post by  braddman 
#1 ·
1) Go to Auto Zone. Get 2 cans of GUNK CITRUS 2 STEP CLEANER/DETAILER.

http://www.gunk.com/msds/CEB1.PDF

2) Get a plastic shopping bag (Assuming all of you have a aftermarket intake.)

3) Let the engine get totally cool and dry. Cover the intake with the plastic bag and apply the GUNK 2 Step Detail Spray. I prefer to do this step at the power washer, because the power washer will REALLY get rid of all the dirt in the hard to get spots.





4) Let the GUNK sit for 5 minutes, and then if you have a REAL dirty engine bay, use a brush and scrub the most dirty areas with the brush or rags.


5) Spray off engine compartment. Use power washer at this step if you really want a clean engine compartment.



6) Repeat this process again without the brush. This will assure all the dirt has been washed away.


7) Let the engine completely dry.
8) Apply the Gunk again. Let it soak on the engine for 20 minutes. (DO NOT WASH IT OFF THIS TIME!) Wipe down the entire engine, although the instructions do not say this. This will make the shine much better and remove the excess detail spray.




9) Run the engine for 20 minutes with the hood open then drive it for 10 minutes. This will seal the coatings.

11) Use Mothers Metal polish on any polished surfaces to bring out the shine.


That's it, and the motor will stay looking new for about a month, then you need to repeat the process.


Enjoy


Check it out. Invited Ryan over for an Hardtop engine detailing party. I suppose you could say this is a slight improvement.


From Cardomain-Before and After


 
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#130 ·
Here we go with no pictures.

1) Go to Auto Zone. Get 2 cans of GUNK Foamy Engine Brite engine cleaner.

2) Get 2 cans of CD2 Engine Detail Spray-If you can't find it at Auto Zone get it here.
http://midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?1079


3) Get a plastic shopping bag (Assuming all of you have a aftermarket intake.)

4) Let the engine get totally cool and dry. Cover the intake with the plastic bag and apply the GUNK Foamy Engine Brite. I prefer to do this step at the power washer, because the power washer will REALLY get rid of all the dirt in the hard to get spots.

5) Let the GUNK sit for 5 minutes, and then if you have a REAL dirty engine bay, use a brush and scrub the most dirty areas with the brush.

6) Spray off engine compartment. Use power washer at this step if you really want a clean engine compartment.

7) Repeat this process again without the brush. This will assure all the dirt has been washed away.

8) Let the engine completely dry.

9) Apply the CD-2 Engine Detailer. Let it soak on the engine for 20 minutes. Wipe down the entire engine, although the instructions do not say this. This will make the shine much better and remove the excess detail spray.

10) Run the engine for 20 minutes with the hood open then drive it for 10 minutes. This will seal the coatings.

11) Use Mothers Metal polish on any polished surfaces to bring out the shine.


That's it, and the motor will stay looking new for about a month, then you need to repeat the process.

Enjoy
 
#135 ·
Hey Brad,

Nice to see that you finally got the write up up. I don't know where i've been but apparently you've moved to florida since the last time i talked to you. Anyway hope things are well, take care man.

Ryan
 
#140 ·
I'm pretty sure that simple green has been found to be harmful to aluminum parts. I remember there was a big thread about it on sf.com few years ago. I've stopped using simple green ever since then.

joemck7 said:
While everyone is waiting for the write-up.........

Here is the dummies guide to engine detailing.

I have had success using a 50/50 dilution of simple green solution and water. I took an old windex bottle and washed it out, filled it 50% water and 50% Simple Green. You can get Simple Green at most autostores and harware stores.

First: Start the car and warm it up so that you can touch the manifold and hold it. You dont want it too hot.

Second: You simply cover all the pieces that dont "like" water with aluminum foil. **Also, stick a rag in the air inlet thing** (On the left side of the plug cover).

Quick List of things to cover (If your not sure, just cover it)
1. Intake
2. Spark Plug Cover
3. Fuse Box
4. Anything that looks electrical
5. Solenoid for boost controller (Everyone has one ;) )
6. Again, dont forget the rag in that air inlet hole.(not the technical name)

Third: Spray the simple green solution all around the engine bay. Make sure you get all the metal parts really well. Do not be stingy with this part. Let it sit on the engine for ten min or so. If you have metal brushes they work well at this step on any metal surface, if not work the simple green in with an old rag during this ten min.

Next: Spray the engine with water. I do not suggest using a sharp stream but more of a shower like stream of water. If you missed any spots, hit it again with the green and repeat from step 3.

Finally: Dry off the whole thing and and DONT FORGET to take off the aluminum foil. I know the foil looks like you just got your engine polished, but the engine runs better if it can get air from the intake. :)


**NOTE** This is a very simple way to detail your engine and I am sure that the "secret" method will be much more intense than my simple version.

-Joe
 
#142 ·
PsyKotiC RydeR said:
I'm pretty sure that simple green has been found to be harmful to aluminum parts. I remember there was a big thread about it on sf.com few years ago. I've stopped using simple green ever since then.
NO simple green...just use the gunk and a brush...and the CD2 will keep the engine looking new forever.
 
#146 ·
I just did this to my beater(92 g20 with 163,xxx miles) and to my parents 99 maxima. Just after the gunk foam engine brite, the g20 is so much cleaner!! However, it didn't show a difference with the maxima(i did it about 8 months ago with some other products). Any ways, the g20 engine bay was a mess, it was never cleaned from my what i know. and all i did was spray the engine brite, let it sit for 5 minutes, and then sprayed it under "jet" setting on my nozzle. I'l post pictures soon.

Brad, what kind of brush do you use under the hood? I didnt see anything safe to use from autozone cuz they were all brass and wire brushes.

With a brush, I think I can get better results as well.
 
#148 ·
Thank you Thank you Thank you Braddman,
Just cleaned and detailed the engine bay today.... damn I think it has never been cleaned b4 so I definately needed this write up. Its so purrty now.... haha
CD2 is great.


PsyKotiC RydeR: I found a nylon brush with a handle at autozone.... I saw that brass stuff too and it looked dangerous. The nylon brush seemed to work alright. Couldn't get to some hard to reach spots though... might wanna use an old tooth brush lol.
 
#149 ·
PsyKotiC RydeR said:
I just did this to my beater(92 g20 with 163,xxx miles) and to my parents 99 maxima. Just after the gunk foam engine brite, the g20 is so much cleaner!! However, it didn't show a difference with the maxima(i did it about 8 months ago with some other products). Any ways, the g20 engine bay was a mess, it was never cleaned from my what i know. and all i did was spray the engine brite, let it sit for 5 minutes, and then sprayed it under "jet" setting on my nozzle. I'l post pictures soon.

Brad, what kind of brush do you use under the hood? I didnt see anything safe to use from autozone cuz they were all brass and wire brushes.

With a brush, I think I can get better results as well.
One from the supermarket that you use to clean bathtubs etc, it has the plastic bristles that won't scratch anything.
 
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