You can use the 3mm LEDs just fine. That way you only have to buy one type of LEDs. I played around and used the rectangular LEDs, but they end up shining the same.Originally Posted by 1320ms
You can use the 3mm LEDs just fine. That way you only have to buy one type of LEDs. I played around and used the rectangular LEDs, but they end up shining the same.
I'm sooo going to do this !!! Thanks for the info !!! Green Illumination get the outta here !!!
Brian
ps: I did the headlight polish/paint last week...turned out GR8. SF is THE TIHS !!!
Mike, regarding the AC unit. It doesn't seems very clear on the original AC rectangular LEDs. It seems like you cut them out then solder them back again? I am in the process of doing it, and it confuses me since I do not know what's the purpose of cutting them out then put the original one back again.
The ones I used in the picture were "aftermarket" LEDs that were shaped like the stock ones. I was experimenting with different LEDs. You can use the 3mm LEDs just fine.
Ah, ok. thanks!
Right, got any specific part numbers, ratings/etc? I know jack about LED's, just looking for a part number of the exact LED used in that 'megaload' pic
Well, the simple ones light up (button selectors, etc), but the ones that used to be bulbs doesn't. One thing I noticed that not all the bulbs are in the same direction. The red circle ones have positive side on the top_left side, while the blue ones has positive on the bottom_left side. I have tried to use 390 ohms, and 470 ohms resistors (both 1/2 Watts), haven't had luck except one time it lights up when I flip the polarity around, but only for a glance of time. Any other suggstion? Again, my LEDs are 3mm 20mA 3V ones.
That's how it has to be. There's a positive contact and a negative contact. LEDs will only light up that way.
What you have circled in correct. The reds face like that, and the blue face like that.
I think you answered this question before in some where, but did you run them in parallel or series?
Ok, everything is finished up. Not quite the same way as Mike did his, but they worked and much better than before. The only problem I am having now is the direct soldered LEDs (location indicators) aren't bright enough when the night switched turned on. Any suggestion with them?
I have to give props to mike, after doing this, it sure takes time and effort for this LED solution!
I remember coming across this site from this guy in the UK doing something similar like this, except he used GEl wire crap. He swapped out the diode or something (I guess it's the same as the resistors) for the LED indicators. I assume the stock LEDs and the ones you use aren't drawing the same voltages therefore it's causing some problems.
Luckily for me, when I did it, I had TONS of LEDs so for the ones that didn't work, I just tried another set. Sometimes certain sets will do that for me, I don't know why.
Any pics man? Take your time adjusting the LEDs so it shines really good on the buttons.
And yea these do take time. After it's all said and done, it's well worth it for someone else to do it. The only reason I started doing my own was because I wasted $80 on that Austrian kit that sold in the FS Section last year. That kit sucked, as there was only 5 LEDs included
It just replaces the stock bulbs which made it even worse. So I just started doing it.
I think the LEDs are a bit too closer for the bottom row. I need to adjust them a bit more since the indicators are harder to see.
Normal
Night Lights on
Looks good. What happen to the "temp" area? It seems like the indicator LEDs aren't getting enough voltage for it to light up properly.
I'll post up the link to the UK site if I find it.
Also it seems as though you didn't properly "shield" out the indicator LEDs. Some of the light source is lighting up the buttons.
I didn't turn on the AC on the last picture and battery is getting low lol.
And yeah, I need to shield the buttons better
Last edited by AtlSupra; 10-08-2006 at 09:47 PM.
I used these bulbs for the Main 3 in the Cluster and the same one 'michaelvanle' used in the water temp location..... without cutting up any plastic parts.
Here is my final result with the cluster:
And For Comparison Purposes...
Still not sure which I like better... mine appears to be brighter, but his appears to have a more even spread.
Last edited by Surpass; 10-13-2006 at 11:15 PM.
any LED's for the glove box?
or maybe the dome light?
I used these bulbs for the Main 3 in the Cluster and the same one 'michaelvanle' used in the water temp location..... without cutting up any plastic parts.
Here is my final result with the cluster:
And For Comparison Purposes...
Still not sure which I like better... mine appears to be brighter, but his appears to have a more even spread.
Whered you get your bulbs from dude I wants dat!
Here's a link to an auction about to end in 4 days.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-501-High-Po...QQcmdZViewItem
Same thing. It takes about 2 weeks to get, but you see the results.
Yes, I have them for my dome lights as well, just not my glove box... yet?
Here's another link www.superlumination.com
They do not have them listed, but email them and ask about the "Hi Output Ba9s bulbs." They look just like the ones above with the wide angle, BUT they have the turn style lock in place end (not wedge style) that our dome lights use. Verify with them first, but I am 99% positive that was the model. They can email you pictures of the bulbs, at least they did for me. Just be nice!
Last edited by Surpass; 10-23-2006 at 02:29 AM.
Glove box = #37
Ignition Ring = #37
And this is from the Lexus site, but it should be universal.
Dome light ((2) M16 bulb + (1) M17 festoon bulb - 3 total)
awesome write up, I will be attempting this sometime this week.
1993 hardtop tube frame - Sold
what would happen if i do like this would it be more brighter
using only 3mm LED's cuz it's hard to get the refractor here
Hmm... where did you get that picture? Most of the gauges are in "circles" so the 3mm LEDs would have to be shaped in circles, or else it'd be hotspots where the LEDs are placed.
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