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Fender modification pics

259K views 276 replies 140 participants last post by  1LSWON 
#1 · (Edited)
I would like to see some close up pics of rolled or cut rear fenders. Interested in the end result whether it was done by a shop or a DIY job. :) thanks. :)
searched..and no luck.
 
#137 ·
Yeah... and I just edited my post to clarify since I realized that 3 o'clock on the drivers is different than on the passengers, I mean its at the rear of the wheel wells where that plastic trim piece starts, which you know I'm sure but others might not.
 
#142 ·
I rolled mine a bit with the rolling tool but, belive it or not supra's have some heavy duty sheet metal on the Q-panels because it was a bitch to do.
I was gonna have my body shop cut them but, he said DO NOT cut them.
The reason is that the q-panle sheet metal is welded to the fenders and thats why there is a few spot welds on the inner lip & it makes it difficult to roll. I was told if you cut them it could cause the Q-panels to vibrate/shake and it reduces the strenght of q-panles.
 
#148 ·
I had the bodyshop cut my rear fender lips off before they painted... they did an awesome job. The edge is very low profile but still slightly rounded so its not sharp at all... they put seam sealer up in between the panels and redid the undercoating. I talked to quite a few people about cutting it before I went ahead with it but in my research I never found anyone who had a problem with cutting, just theories with no backing. Speaking to a bodyshop that does a lot of work on Supras as well as a few other owners, all those who have cut them have had 0 problems so I felt fine with it.

The one thing they left is they didnt trim any of the plastic rear trim piece which clips to the rear bumper. The top corner of that is the point of least clearance still so I'm going to shave the corner of it off so its not sticking out in the way any more.
I'll get some photos next chance I get with the wheels off, looks 'factory' though :).
 
#151 ·
The locking system helps to keep the strings in tune while the strings are slackened to a degree which was not achieved with older tremolo systems, such as those found on Fender Stratocaster, allowing dive bombs, a rapid lowering of the pitch of a note. Since the tuning heads are ineffectual with the lock in place, the Floyd Rose bridge has heads for fine tuning; the guitar is tuned before the lock is put on, then fine tuned afterwards. Each guitar incorporated with a Floyd Rose tremolo system has springs put in the back of the hardware which create balanced forces with the strings, thus keeping the tremolo into a "floating" state.


:dumbass:
 
#153 ·
What?
 
#152 · (Edited)
did you pull before or after paint? sounds like a pretty serious pull to do after and not botch it all up.
looking good though and thumbs up for not going with a super stretch to fit them... everything in moderation.

and i've seen that vid before... perfect for guys who have spraypainted cars, but i doubt many supra owners are going to do that.
you can achieve the same results with a proper fender roller, and in most cases do it without cracking the paint at all. most supra guys are just looking for a normal roll, dont see many pulls... i didnt pull mine because i didnt want to mess with the amazing lines of the stock body at all.
 
#156 ·
Sorry it took so long to reply. We pulled before paint. I setup the desired stance and then pulled and rolled to fit. After that the body shop cleaned up any mess I left behind. I allready plan on pulling more as this was my budget wheel setup. My next setup will be a 315/30 rear so I will be pulling atleast another inch or so out. We may actually cut and flare out the fender a bit to fit an 18 x 11 rear.
 
#159 · (Edited)
Specs: Work VS-kfs

18 x 11 + 0 Rears / 18 x 9.5 + 0 Fronts

275/35/18 / 245/40/18

Before Manwork on the fenders (note the fresh new paint job about to be ruined)-



Then after Man Size tires and rolling/pulling the F out of the fenders-


Fronts:


Tools needed to make a flair like that.

Fender Rolling tool, sledge hammer, 3" bat and 1.5" pipe, torch and balls of steel!

Took about 6 hours in total to clear some 18 x 11's. Next up will be some 295's then another mild pull or wide fenders. But thats later down the line. The new wheels just put me 4k over budget for the year. Still have some toe to pull out in the rears, then back to the body shop to clean up the flairs...
 
#164 ·
The body shop should know how to go about making the most room for you if they're decent, I don't see what we could really add to that. When it comes to actually fitting the tire, its going to be a guess and check kind of thing and can vary greatly depending on many suspension factors.
 
#165 ·
bigtuhh, the pic of 345 was just a joke,look closer , there is no way to fit 345's without some serious hammering and massaging, what you see is 315/30/18 stuffed in there with quarter lip completely cut off flush, the inner side of the tire was less than 1/4 inch away from inner wheelhouse There was no hammering ,I was trying to keep it all original

here is a pic of the 315 on CCW's,




the 345's were on Work's

I also agree with TROLL, a body shop should be able to handle your wheel/tire fitment, if you're getting CCW's, those guys have Supra specs, just keep in mind, if you have new of fresh front brake pads,you will have to either use a spacer or trim a little off the calipers

Stefan
 
#167 ·
yes,the main area that needs most attention is where the tip of rear plastic trim meets the quarter panel,this is where all the scrubbing occurs, I run 295/30/19 and had to cut off some of the plastic trim, it still rubbed when I had 295/35/19 ,I hated the baloon tires
 
#168 ·
exvelocity, this is where my point of rubbing is as well. I have shaved the corner of that section off and a bit of the metal sitting behind it, but its still the first place to rub. Do you have any photos of what you've done in that area so we can compare notes? Wondering the best way to maximize the clearance in that area.

I want to go to a 10mm wider tire and it looks like I have plenty of space except for that spot. On my current setup over a big dip in the highway, I rubbed recently. Don't think I've rubbed other than that, but if I go to a 10mm wider tire obviously I'll be increasing the probability of rubbing so I'm looking to open up that potential problem spot as much as reasonably possible.
 
#169 ·
This is how mine was modified... we shaved it to where the first clip is holding that trim piece on. There was some sheetmetal behind it which was trimmed as well.



I'm on a 18x10.5 +30 with a 275/35/18 tire currently which looks to have a fair amt of clearance still in the wheel well, but when the suspension compresses, it rubs at that spot in question.
 
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