what about the rear end. i did not see that mentioned, but heard it was necessary.
what about the rear end. i did not see that mentioned, but heard it was necessary.
What is that module bolted to the shock tower at the top of the pic? (connected to the grey connector)
You mean the resistor pack? You'll need those if you plan on running USDM TT injectors.
The rear end was not mentioned as I got tired (a few hours working on this write up) and didnt put it in there .. now if someone wants to do one Ill put that up in my second post so there isnt much searching around.Originally Posted by frankie1119
But if you are doing the trans, driveshaft and differential swap as well, than after you reinstall the motor w/ the trans attached already (put it back in together/connected) you can do it then. Now I could do a write up on that but I have NO PICS what so ever as I havent done it.
Also swapping out the rear end is a preference issue to some and a security option to others. If you plan on making BPU and your cute pluses than you could just keep/use a W58 with the 5 speed drive shaft. Here are some other options, THAT I HAVE HEARD, you could use.
1. TT motor, 5 Speed Trans, 5 speed drive shaft, 5 speed diff.
2. " , Auto TT Trans (stock or built), Auto TT driveshaft, and Auto TT Diff.
3. " , 6 Speed (v160) trans, Auto TT driveshaft, Auto TT diff.
4. " , " , 6 speed driveshaft, and 6 speed diff.
Ranking these would be from least reliable to most reliable in terms of using them with High HP loads. Like I said, its a preference to some and a budget to others.
Im running JDM 440cc injectors until I get my AEM installed, then I will configure the AEM for new bigger injectors.
I thought that thing was a Trac Control module of some sort?
Nice work on the tutorial.
I only have one issue other then the not having to remove the dash thing Soapra mentioned.
You should never use teflon tape on brake lines.. Teflon tape is only used as a thread sealant. On brake lines, the pressure is much too high for teflon tape alone to make a proper seal, which is why brake lines use flare fittings or banjo fittings. If you want to block off an unused brake line, get a proper plug for it, instead of a 6mm bolt with teflon tape. You don't want to recommend someone do something that could possibly fail and cause them to have an accident.
Last edited by orvacian; 05-11-2007 at 07:33 PM.
AKA Bigaaron on SM.
88 Supra with 1JZ-GTE.
90 JAG XJS with 2JZ-GTE/TH400.
Thanks for the advice on the brake lines as I didnt touch on that. Is this in reference to removing the trac pump?
Yes, I was looking at the links and I saw a big pic of a brake fitting with a phillips head bolt sticking out with teflon tape on it.
Like I mentioned though, the write up is great, and I didn't want to nit-pick it, but I always try to speak up when it is about a safety concern.
damn the mounts on the pics for NA and TT have me confused. On my JDM MK4, it has a N/A 2jz but the mounts are the one on the picture thats labled TT....
Oh by the way, on my Aristo 2jzgte, the auto trans tail has a bolt up kinda thing, similar to the rear diff bolt up on the mk4. Anyone know if its possible to use the tail of the N/A trans on the TT Auto trans?(To use a yolk type driveshaft instead of bolt up kinda thingy)
Or are the N/A and TT trans the same? bcuz i was looking at them and they look similar......
Im working on the swap right now and I can confirm you definetly do not need to pull out the dash to get the harness out. Just need 2 people and it comes out with a little bit of wiggling and having one person pull and one push the plugs out one at a time.
Good write up but I think what you have here is the a/c compressor. What's circled is where the high pressure refrigerant hoses connect.Remove the power steering pump bracket and Disconnect power steering line from brackets at lower front edge of engine. ( see Power Steering pic )
Remove A/C compressor with hoses attached and set aside.
Your right .. I edited it now .. thanks for the heads up .. tiny detail i messed up on
Can someone chime in on the Fuel pump/bracket conversion?
The fuel pump bracket/hangar is different from TT to NA. What did you guys use for the shorter rod in the hangar for the return that requires a hose?
Also whats the whole deal on the TT fuel pump ECU? Has anyone used a constant 12v conversion found on mkiv.com? Do you absolutely need the TT fuel pump ecu?
This should be some helpful info.
Also Ive heard that some have modified their NA Power steering resevoirs to be used with the TT. Some info on that would be great too.
Last edited by Bodom; 05-22-2007 at 01:07 AM.
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When I did the fuel pump on the 94 NA the bracket was just fine. The pump did have a connector on the NA pump but the TT pump has two small studs. Just go to autozone and get the nuts that will be missing or order them from (insert dealer name here) and dont worry about it. You will need two o-ring terminals but that is about it.
On 97 and 98 you will need to change the fuel pump bracket and run a return line.
On the Fuel pump ECU topic. Just run it 12V and leave the ECU plugged in, just incase the check engine light comes on and gives you a code.
1JZGTE VVTi
294 RWHP and 286 Lbs of torque at 2700 RPM at 11 Psi
Kaizen SPL hard pipes, Kaizen DP, HKS hyper Catback. OS giken twin plate.
Footwork:
Up Garage coilovers, Cusco Strut bars, Tanabe hollow Sway bars,Dunlop DZ101, ARZ Wilwood 4 piston front and MK4 two piston rear calipers.
kaizen SS Brake lines, Volk GTC's
The reason Id recommend just getting the TT fuel pump ECU is to avoid doing any more wiring to that car that is not factory. Or splicing any wires that didnt come stock that way. I can only see problems by doing the 12v method, thats the reason I would not do it. Such as a shorter life span of the fuel pump ecu (which can be argueable). Ill edit the post again to include the 12v wiring method as well .. its always good to have options ESPECIALLY IF YOUR ON A BUDGET !!
Well... Here is the response I got from SupraTico in a pm:
I used the TT fuel pump ECU. I added a relay near the battery to act as the EFI2 relay on the stock TT. It is switched on by the EFI1 relay (which is on both NA and TT Supras). I ran a new power line from the battery, through a 30A fuse, to the relay, and then to the fuel pump ECU power in wire (black/red) which I cut... From there it goes out to the pumps normally... You will have to mix and match a few different colored wires between the NA and TT harnesses... once you cut off the harness of the NA fuel ECU you'll want to solder the corresponding wires from the TT fuel ECU. The (3?) thinner wires are the same and are white, green and black I believe.. or maybe brown... it's been a long time, but you won't have a problem with it.
This is great info and also explains my question about the differences that some people have talked about the NA and TT fuse boxes. Im going to try this this weekend.
oOOo yeah .. the 12V fuel pump mod was done with the TT FUEL PUMP .. not the NA .. I could not tell you if it will yield the same results but I can give you the link ..
12V Fuel Pump Mod
Looks like my writeup from a few years back. Good work
Whatever happened to that thread??
No clue... lost with the sands of time I guess
I was gone for such a long time out of the NA-T world...but I've got a renewed interest as of late
Here's another small part I needed. The return turbo oil return on the Aristos oil pan was angled differently. Here's a photo of the little oil pipe that was also different, along side the new pipe. It's not an expensive part, and you might as well at least get the little metal gasket that fits between this pan and this pipe.
If you go this route, you'll still need a hose at custom length to reach the oil pipe from the front turbo. The new rubber piping that fits between the rear turbo oil outlet pipe and the y-pipe pictured, connects fine.
You can probably get away with using the old pipe pictured and just running new rubber hoses off it as well.
Last edited by Ryan_F; 06-07-2007 at 03:06 PM.
OK well I got my AEM installed and everything wired up and plumbed.
Car cranks but does not fire up. I do not think I am getting fuel (cause I dont smell the gas)
I took a test light and checked the coil pack harness plugs with ignition on and they are in fact getting power.
I also took a test light and checked that one of the pins on the pump housing is getting power when key turned to ACC.
Did you guys have to do anything specific to get the fuel pump to turn on after this swap?
I noticed that on the TT harness, there is one more plug under the passenger side foot well (white plug) that was NOT present on the NA harness. what did you all do with that?
dont forget you'll need a tt fan and to wire in another fuel pump relay and also the wiring at the fuse box.
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