I was just wondering if anyone knew or have had personal experiances with this. I was curious of what the average horsepower and torque limits of a stock W58 tranny and rear diff were. I am building a project car and I am shooting for 600WHP by the time I am done. I will probably eventually go with LSD in the rear diff, but not yet. I just want to get the car running and driveable first. What do you guys think?
Yupp...i say like 430-480whp would hold fine if you drive it chilled, and take care of it..also make sure you keep in mind how many miles it has..oviously more miles wouldnt risk more whp on it...
i've ran 600hp on wheel with 69.8kg of torque... seems ok...but daily driven on lower settings at approx 450hp or so... been running 3 years.. no prob...
its all about how you drive it, if you can keep your foot of the gas and ure boost low, it should last you at any hp level, but for me, i blew 2 w58's in a matter of 2 months running only 440whp and 470ft/lbs of torque, but i must say, i am boost hapy and boost every chance i get
Are you talking about me? The only thing it let loose in 5th was an ass whoopin.... :lol: The original tranny is still intact, as a matter of fact Supra_punk owns my old black car and can attest to it.
I had a 5SP in my NA-TT Supra, it drove fine and eventually let go in the 450rwhp range. At first I thought it was due to a previous build error (did not know the history of the transmission before I owned it), but upon opening it up and inspecting the transmission it completely chewed up the input shaft. I don't know the history of the transmission, don't know how it was driven before me, etc... I do know the car jerked around alot on decel which I later found out it was missing a bushing on the rear diff and I am sure the violent jerking motion didn't help the transmission at all.
Most people break 3rd gear which is why on the 5SP I just tell people to take it easy on 3rd.. stick to 4th gear pulls.
Didn't you cryo your W58?
I plan on doing that, I'm not sure if I'm going to try and put the whole tranny in, or if I'm going to try and pull it apart. I don't feel confident in separating all of the internals of the tranny, so I'm just hope that the seals in the tranny don't get damaged when cryoing.
I've cryoed a whole FWD auto tranny before, and it held up just fine.
The cryo won't help much with part stretch, but it does a fantastic job on improving surfaces, and greatly reducing fracturing,
i think cryoing would be a waste of money, drive it untill it breaks and then just upgrade.....
and the reason the 3rd gear is the one that lets go most of the time (I THINK*) is b/c most people do their pulls in 3rd gear and it seems like the slimest of the gears
I dunno, I'd say for <$300 cryoing would be beneficial for some people, like myself. WHo has very limited access to swapping out transmissions at a whim, and would like to spend a few hundred extra bucks to prolong the engaging process of a swap... I've had good luck with cryoing a modern FWD GM auto before so I'm going to give it a shot when I swap my clutch, and PP out.
The thing is that I want to use simple things before going big... So basically by having a 7mgte sotck I`m putting a fuel pressure regulator, walbro fuel pump, 550cc injectors, MHG, Lexus MAF, FCD, a t60-1 turbo 3 inch downpipe, tial Bov, HKS wastegate, 31x12x3 intercooler, 3 inch intercooler piping, and some minor things.... But I`m wondering what clutch could be better from clutchmaster
-fx400
-fx500
-fx725 kelvar disc
-fx725 solid bronce disc
wow, i was reading 300 whp for a w58 but thats kind of good to know that they can handle a little more, i think an NA putting down 350+ whp is pretty respectable for a DD, enough oomph to get around the slow drivers in the fast lanes...
i know mine wouldnt make it but im sure a simple rebuild would be worth it, better mounts, TRD knob and shifter and TRD LSD with the ring and pinion change to lower my highway cruising rpms.. or would the stock one be better for acceleration???
Ooops maybe I should stop with the 3rd gear pulls, it's been almost a year now making close to 500whp and all I have been doing is 3rd gear pulls. Of course I don't beat on it
509 whp (mustang dyno) 567 whp (dynojet) NA-T here with RPS Street Disc on the W58 5-Speed. I've got a C's shifter as well and the trans has held fine for approximately 6,000 miles now. As long as you don't constantly run from a dig and/or beat on the transmission it should last fairly long, but as soon as you start going over 600 whp I would suggest looking into a back up transmission, such as the MKIII R154. I'm looking to get one myself this offseason.
what I'm curious to know is what do guys with NA-Ts making 450+ whp trap at the track? I hear it takes some good power to get these bad boys moving and I'm new so yea lol
have any of you NA-T guys taken your car to the strip???
i got one and my buyer only bought my gte, so im contimplating on swapping or selling, there is a guy with a complete swap for 3k which sounds nice but then i also see the trans alone go for a few hundred bucks...
What you've been told is based off other people's experiences and driving styles. There are plenty of people running the w58 with 500+ whp safely without issues. It just depends if you beat the shit out of your car or not.
My rule of thumb is this, if you are shooting for 500 whp the W58 is fine and SHOULD hold up. If you want to break into the 600+ whp range either try a SPEC twin disc clutch ($1500) for the W58, I've heard these things save W58s like its their job. Or do a R154 swap or V160/161 if you got the duckets.
This is proof that a 500 whp NA-T on the W58 can hold up with the big boys. Also don't forget our NA-Ts weigh about 3200 lbs whereas TT supras are more like 3450. The weight savings and 4.08 rear in the NA allow for some nice track times.