Stock Twin Removal - How To

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Thread: Stock Twin Removal - How To

  1. #76
    wow.. seeing this makes me glad that i wont need my supra to run for a long time.. and im just going to slowly build it with a single. i would hate to take these off on the car..

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  3. #77
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    Awesome write-up. Defintely helped me take my stock twins out last night. The whole process took about 5 hours, mostly due to frustration, banging my head on things, etc. Thanks again!

  4. #78
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    Just removed these last week - the best feeling is when they are out and you know they are not going back in, - cast manifold 6266, ETS intercooler w/ TiAl 50mm BOV, TiAl 40 mm WG going back on!

    Had to invent some interesting leverage solutions for the bitch bolt and stock WG bolts in general!
    Last edited by jdubs; 10-13-2012 at 03:54 AM.

  5. #79

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    Great write up, and thanks for all your input. I will be using it with in the next couple of weeks.

  6. #80
    Raising the BAR Dj6ta's Avatar
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    Did you guys unbolt the mounts and lift the engine to get to most of the bolts? When I took mine off I did and it made the job so much easier.
    Downside to owning a Supra


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    down side? when girls get in and ask "where is the cup holder?"..... real question.... "Who the F*%! said you could bring a drink in here?!".

  7. #81
    SupraForums Member aphlux's Avatar
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    I just want emphasize something the OP posted.

    BUY A 14MM STUBBY IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ONE.

    We just pulled the twins off the car tonight for the first time in car and man, did that save us on the bitch bolt and the 4 bolts on the bottom that connect the turbos to the manifold.
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  8. #82
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    took alot of parts off today, the harness/clips on the front next to the water pump was a bitch
    Renaissance Red
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  9. #83
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    For the bitch bolt I just put a 14mm stubby on it and hit the wrench with a 3lb mini sledge I always keep handy.

    Was a piece of cake.

    Once you've unlocked hammer wrench mode, there is no going back. You'll look at life in a whole new way.

    In cramped spaces with tiiiight fasteners it's so much easier than trying to get enough leverage to crack them. Not enough room to swing a hammer? Use a drift to transfer the hammer blow to the end of the wrench.

  10. #84
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    Just removed the stock twins on my SC300 with 2JZGTE swap, this thread was extremely helpful. Thank you for putting this together.

    I ended up rounding off the "bitch nut" so actually had to remove the turbos and manifold together which actually wasn't that bad at all and I think actually saved me some time. The trick to getting to all the nuts on the bottom of the manifold with the turbos still attached is a long 14mm ratcheting flex head wrench and you can get to the nuts from under the car.

    I let the bolts soak in PB Blast overnight which I think helped a lot because I didn't need to apply much force to get all the bolts loose.

  11. #85
    SupraForums Member ToxicMegacolon's Avatar
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    Can I just say that removing the turbos was easily the worst experience I've ever had with my car. This guide was invaluable though in helping me through the process. Have stubby box wrenches handy, a breaker bar, jack stands, a million extenders, and like 3 cans of PB Blast before attempting this.

  12. #86
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    Anyone lose their arm stays the 19mm bolt?? I lost mine and im not sure what the part number is!!!!

  13. #87
    2JZ sup_dawgTT's Avatar
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    Thank you so much to the OP for the detailed instruction as I have finally removed mine with, as most said its invaluable
    1993 Supra 6 speed Single
    2013 GT86 Aero Package

  14. #88
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    very helpful stick indeed, shall help me alot when I go single

  15. #89
    SupraForums Member SuperBrian85's Avatar
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    Thank you for the write up. Though a good tip for the dammed bolt. I must of dropped the stubby wrench 15 times using a tall gas pipe. I wanted to try a pry bar, but only had access to a really tall one for work. I have been using a 1 foot gas pipe for leverage with a 90* fitting to break free the bolts after soaking them. I used the 90 degree fitting on the tall gas pipe onto the teeth of the wrench, and broke it free after the second time since I tapped the sensor the 1st time. Who ever did it in a minute with just a pipe; major props to you. Also you need 4 jack stands not 2 for a lot of arm angle room to break the bolts. Lastly having 1/4 size tools is a must using a 14" extension, 12mm socket, and 14mm mid size socket. Trust me this is a reminder for me in the future along with the good write up.

  16. #90

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    Currently in the process of removing the stock twins. Great write up, helping a lot!
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  17. #91
    Cardinals! codex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02MSM View Post
    Currently in the process of removing the stock twins. Great write up, helping a lot!
    We got the bitch bolt off slightly different than this guide. The pipe on the wrench with the strut tower as a fulcrum wasn't budging it. Liquid Wrench on all exhaust nuts/bolts. Instead, we used one of the other exhaust housing nuts to secure the 14mm stubby wrench on the bitch bolt nut with about 1mm of room to allow it to back out. Then hooked the pipe into the open end of the wrench, with the pipe almost parallel with the A/C lines, and used a hammer on the end of the pipe to break the nut free. This seems far easier than the previous pipe leverage method.. just be very careful not to hammer an A/C line.
    - Jeff
    1994 Supra 6-speed Twin Turbo
    2001 Lexus IS300


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