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Going Single after 10 years / SP F1 Manifold, PTE6265

35K views 284 replies 98 participants last post by  2jzrx7 
#1 · (Edited)
Well after owning my Supra for 10 years I decided it was about time to go single. I've pushed the stock twins about as far as they will go and have reached a wall with them, so time to move on to bigger and better things.

I've decided to go with SP's new F1 manifold with a kit form them as well with a PTE6265 turbo. I'm having the manifold build to accommodate a quick spool valve, but will be running a spacer in its place for now to get a feel for the spool without it. I may buy one later so I will have a good comparison if I do.

While I'm waiting for the manifolds to be built and for the snow to start melting, I decided to start getting the car ready.

I will update the list below as I go, but this is what I'm doing so far

Parts/Mods:

-ProEFI 128 System, w/ 52mm CAN gauge
-SP F1 manifold
-SP 4" Stainless Steel Downpipe/Midpipe Coated Silver
-Precision PW46 Wastegate
-SP 4" Polished Intake
-Precision 6265 CEA Billet, polished/coated silver 1.00A/R Divided housing
-SP Fuel system, 880cc injectors, dual Walbro pumps
-Fluidyne Radiator
-Titan Billet radiator brackets
-Titan Polished Radiator Plate
-PHR Drop-down "4-row style" Intercooler pipe
-AEM Methanol Injection Monitor System
-Royal Purple Syncromax tranny fluid
-Red Line Heavy Shockproof for the rear diff
*Relocated ABS Relay box
*Relocated Resistor Box/Igniter

Mods already on the car that are staying:
-Apexi GT-Spec Exhaust
-Greddy 3-Row Intercooler
-HKS RS Coilovers
-HKS SSQV BOV
-Apexi EL Boost Gauge
-HPF Bronze 6-Puck Clutch Disk, Sound Bend Pressure plate, RPS lightweight Flywheel
-Adjustable Cam Gears
-BoostLogic Crank Pulley
-Line Lock Kit
-Braided Stainless Brake Lines
-Hawk HPS Brake Pads
-Meth injection system

First a "before" picture of the twins:


Next I started pulling on parts to get ready to remove the twins:





I followed this guide http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?573456-Stock-Twin-Removal-How-To and found it very helpful. However I was unable to get the "bitch nut" off so I just went ahead and unbolted the manifold from the head and removed the whole turbo system as one piece.



And all of the parts I removed:



 
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#2 ·
Congrats dude it will seem like a new car!!!!

Are you going to be on stock fuel? Also what about engine management?

Bob
 
#15 · (Edited)
I had the day off of work today so I spent a bit of time in the garage.

First I wanted to replace the heater hoses. Using this guide http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?473818-hose-part-numbers-for-single-conversion I was able to find both hoses at my local Autozone.

Before:



Hoses Used:



After:



I had to go out and get some bent pliers to get the clamp off between the valve covers. Also for anyone else doing this be careful with the nipples that exit the heater core, they are very soft, I actually crushed one slightly trying to get the hose off it. Luckily I was able to reshape without any issue.

I also wanted to clean the head below the valve covers. I used Simple Green and a toothbrush to get it clean.

Before:



After:

 
#18 ·
Josh, the one thing I wish I did when I went single was weld up those 3 unused coolant nipples on the pipe that wraps around the block. I had put a rubber cap on it like you are doing now, but its one of those things that I think about from time-to-time. I had one cap rip before, luckily it was on the upper coolant neck (That was before I got it welded shut), but it always makes me think about those harder to reach ones.

So if you can, I would suggest getting those welded shut for peace of mind.
 
#19 ·
subscribing because hopefully ill be doing the same thing this summer :) this is going to be one bad ass set up, I need to get in touch with the gents over at SP and see what we can work out...

what size a/r housing you going to be running? and journall or dbb?

-Kyle
 
#22 ·
Phu, I actually capped it with a piece of thick hose with a bolt in the end of it, as I know the caps can break/leak. I think the hose+bolt will hold up fine, but I'll take a look at pulling that piece and having it welded. I wonder if it can be soldered shut with a torch like plumbing?

Kyle, I will be running a 1.00AR divided housing, that way I can just pop a QSV in there later if I want without having to change out the turbo housing. Getting a journal beaning turbo.

nazbr7, Your setup helped me make up my mind on the 6265. I'm shooting for 525rwhp or so on pump gas plus a little meth. I think that should be very doable, and maybe 650rwhp on race gas.

boostaddict17, I'll send you a PM about my dual intake kit.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Over the weekend I decided to continue cleaning up the engine bay. I wanted to relocate the ABS relay box, and hide as much of the harness as possible on the turbo side.

Before Picture:


First step was the unbolt the relay box, and unclip the harness where in runs behind the headlight:


Next I followed the harness under the wheel well where it enters through a orange grommet. Inside by the ECU this harness connects to a junction block with 3 green connectors. I then disconnected these and the three connectors by the ABS and pulled the harness out into the engine bay.



I then re-routed the harness through the front corner of the fender by the headlight opening:


I then modified the harness cover a bit so that the harness could exit in the correct area, I also made a notch in it for the alternator wires to exit and go straight down to the alternator. You can see the completed routing below, including where the white alternator wires exit. They have not been routed yet.


I relocated the relay box to under the headlight here:


I then gave everything a good cleaning and the final result:

 
#27 · (Edited)
So this weekend I started working on the intake side of the engine to get ready for my fuel system install.

Before:


Started by pulling the TB and upper intake manifold off:


Then removed the fuel rail and lower runners:



I then went to work on relocating the igniter and resistor pack. First I un-loomed the wire harness that went to the igniter and resistor, so the harness could "T" off and I could run the wires along the firewall under the brake booster and into the fender.


I mounted the igniter and resister pack on a piece of aluminum.


Then I mounted this up inside the fender.


Everything plugged in:


And the result:

 
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