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Best Oil for 2JZ-GTE

180K views 207 replies 99 participants last post by  KaRaeZeeMoFO 
#1 ·
I'm about to change the oil on my supra, and I was wondering what oil you guys use? Or what you guys think is the best. Also what oil filters do you guys use or reccomend? My supra engine is all OEM so far. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, SC FAMILY
 
#3 ·
I dont blame him for posting this...

I went through the same dillema when I bought mine at first.

Yes there is ALOT of information out there on this, but alot of it is unclear. People are running alot of different weights and brands depending on mods. Some are using heavy oils, or Rotella.

to the OP, id suggest a high end synthetic such as amsoil in 10w-30. In stock form, and normal climate conditions theres no need to run anything but what toyota reccomends ( which should be right on a sticker next to your oil cap )
 
#11 ·
Personal Choice: Royal Purple
Good Choices: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Valvoline synthetic just to name a few.

Your cheapest and easiest bet will probably be Mobil1 at Walmart.
Your more expensive and semi-difficult to find choice is Royal Purple (standard 5w30 and 10w30) at most auto stores.
Your most expensive and hardest to get choices are Royal Purple (racing), and Amsoil typically; at least around here.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Unless you plan on tracking your car i.e. generating a lot of high heat for prolonged periods of time I don't see any reason to go with royal purple or amsoil unless you like throwing money down the drain.

NA cars = Mobil 1
Turbo cars = Mobil 1 synthetic

@ wal-mart

xxxx-xxxd3 oil filter @ the dealership.
 
#13 ·
From My expierence Mobile 1=CRAP! Even their 10w40 is super thin when at operating temp. Keep in mind it gets HOT in Texas! I have used Rotella T6 5w40 with much success! It's also one of the cheapest synthetics at about $20 per gal at wallmart!
 
#17 · (Edited)



But, to add something usefull to this thread, here you go OP: There are people on here that swear by Mobil 1, there are people on here that swear by Valvoline Race, there are people on there that swear by Rotella 15-40, Amsoil, Brad Penn, Royal Purple, and on and on and on.

Personally, I prefer Royal Purple. It has great ratings as far as flash points, additives, and such go, and if you go to the Toyota dealership there's Toyota oil, and then Royal Purple sitting right next to it.
 
#45 ·
120 dollars to buy it only..deciding what oil gets in your engine depends on how you drive your car
i used to drag race 6-7 times a night.i dont have an oil cooler and my previous oils lasted only 300miles max until they became water like.this lasts 1.5k miles with my driving.the 20w50 which actually does not have the w..it is 2050. it acts like a 50 when its hot but it doesnt have a significant viscocity change at that temperature and its thin actually...meaning it only has the temperature tolerance range of a w50. and its thin as a w20. It meats the requirements of our engines API SH energy conserving 2 something most oils dont even mention. the only drawback is the price
 
#34 · (Edited)
Use whatever oil makes you feel good about changing your oil, and being so much 'smarter' than everyone else when it comes to oil.



If blindly following OEM spec blows your skirt up, do it.

If tearing through Vatozones, Pep Girls, O'Rapies's, CarQworst, or whatever chains of car parts stores you have in search of German Castrol Syntec or Royal Purple or whatever neato wizbang fancypants oil you fancy tends to tickle your feelers, do it.

If you listen to your engine builder & parts suppliers concerning the tolerances involved, follow those recommendations and use quality oil, and send that oil to blackstone at various mileage intervals to determine your oil change schedule, and use a quality (NOT F#$(*ing FRAM) oil filter, then you're actually smart.
 
#38 ·
Lol adrenaline. Don't get butt hurt.

Honestly I'm tired of having to explain the need to use the proper viscosity oil combined with knowing your own engine, as well seeing test data and wear patterns in order to determine the right weight to use for whichever application and climate you are in most.

Also tired of trying to explain to people why some oils are better than others for different use patterns as well as difference between a regular old 2 dollar oil and something that runs 6 dollars a quart that will save you headaches later.

I think ill just sit back here and laugh at the people who are going to blow their seals right out of their fucking engine by running 20 50 as a "track oil" and revving the piss out of the car while simultaneously exploding the innards of the cheap fram filter.

Then we can all sit back again and laugh when their daily driver throws a rod through the block when it wears through a bearing in somewhat superhuman speed because the thinnest oil on the shelf was a 5w-10 and that obviously does a better job of protecting the bearing that requires a certain weight of oil to adequately support the rotating assembly as it turns lol.

Not that it matters. But who gives a fuck what everybody uses. Educate yourself or listen to the rest of these assholes who have a opinion with no backing. There are better threads to find an answer that don't involve opinionated claims based on blind preference and heresay

Cheers all. I'm out of this shit
 
#52 · (Edited)
Who's butt hurt? I just asked a simple question. Funny thing is you won't take the time to explain your "reasoning" with all of your evidence but you'll write a paragraph explaining WHY you wont. :rofl:

Here's what you do Kracin, as well as several others that have already posted....You'll stand behind "well, it depends on your clearances, your oil temp, the boost you're running, how high your pulling your engine to," etc. Fact of the matter is, you have no idea how to break any of that down into real, practical application. Fact of the matter is, you talk about clearances and such, but guess what? Bearing clearances from one 2jz to the next SHOULD be pretty freaking close. Fact of the matter is, I've had alot of 2js running on RYP and Mobil 1 for years, and we sure a hell don't change oil from the track to the street. TONS of people on here are running Rotella diesel weight with good results. I think Brian (OHRLY) is one of these that prefer this oil above others. Works great for him. TONS of people are running Mobil 1, TONS of people are running Royal Purple, TONS of people are running AMSOIL, weights all varying from 5-20 ( too think IMO) to 20-50 (what I prefer). I think it would be interesting to know just how many actually do change their oil viscosity for the track vs the same they run on the street. There are countless people on here running big numbers doing exactly what you said not to do, "drop it in and call it a day". These are all facts and first hand experience. Now, you can sit there and go all OT on us and play the sit back and laugh and try to backpeddle your way out of this game, or tell us why so many on this forum have gotten lucky for years doing what you suggested not to. :rolleyes:

If it's built like it should be, run a quality synthetic, and you change the oil accordingly to how hard you beat on it, (time interval wise) in coordination with your power level, (heavier oil for higher power), you'll be just fine.
 
#39 ·
Reading through the last page as well as this one, It seems there are a fair few good brands that people are running with success. My question is, how does Pennzoil stack up in terms of quality? Iv been running 10W-30W semi-synthetic for a few years now and havnt had any problems but would love to know what you guys think. I could switch to Royal Purple since its easily available here but would it be an improvement?
 
#41 ·
Hmm thank you Kracin, perhaps I will switch to platinum semi-synthetic (if we have it here in New Zealand). The reason im running semi-synthetic and not full on synthetic is because I was told that for my engine being over 240K KM's it would do more harm than good being too thin? Is that correct?
 
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