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Best Oil for 2JZ-GTE

180K views 207 replies 99 participants last post by  KaRaeZeeMoFO 
#1 ·
I'm about to change the oil on my supra, and I was wondering what oil you guys use? Or what you guys think is the best. Also what oil filters do you guys use or reccomend? My supra engine is all OEM so far. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks, SC FAMILY
 
#85 · (Edited)
Okay, I think I personally am going to either try the Rotella T6, the AMSOIL Signature Series 100% Synthetic 10W-30, or the AMSOIL AMO 10W-40 Synthetic Premium Protection Motor Oil. For the mods I have listed below, any opinions on my best choice?

I do want to add that I currently have an oil loss issue the I can't trace at this point. My current guesses are the turbo seals, the valve stem seals, or worst case the piston rings, but I just haven't had the time or money lately to track down the issue. Due to the oil loss that I had been seeing, I have been using the Mobil 1 15w50 to attempt to slow the oil loss, but in the end my oil pressures stay that much higher and I would like to lower them for normal driving.
 
#86 ·
those are fine choices as long as you are monitoring your pressures and temps.

i would check things in this order, valve stem seals, turbo seals, valve seats (can run a good engine cleaner like bg44k to try and correct it if the stem seals and turbo seals are both good) and piston rings should be the very last thing to go that would cause oil consumption by burning.
 
#87 ·
hey all,

after seeing several 'motor oil' discussions lately, i decided to inquire directly with Amsoil, as i have been considering trying an Amsoil product next. their response to my inquiry left a little to be desired, but i thought i'd share it basically as another data point to use for guidance.

here is the correspondence:

"hi, am wondering if you could answer a few questions regarding Amsoil product recommendations. i own a 1994 toyota supra turbo that is highly modified and making close 1000hp at the wheels. the engine is fully built with all forged internals, and is running on E85. car is a weekend fair weather car, and will see less than 5000mi annually. i am currently using Brad Penn motor oil, and am interested in trying Amsoil. i'm wondering:

1. which Amsoil motor oil would you recommend for best protection (i am not concerned with emissions or street legality)?

2. how often would you recommend oil changes?

3. many in my online car community discuss which motor oil to use. some recommend using commercial or "diesel" oil certified CI4 Plus - what do you think about this recommendation? any additional info you wish to volunteer is appreciated.

and keep in mind, supra enthusiasts are generally a bit obsessive, and are not afraid of spending a little extra for "the best" parts/materials for their hobby. your guidance could earn new customers!

thank you sincerely!
craig"


response:

"Craig,

Thank you for taking the time to contact AMSOIL with your questions. Sorry for the delayed reply to your email.

The best oil for this application would be our Dominator 10W-30 Racing Oil (product code RD30). The AMSOIL RD30 is fortified with a very high amount of ZDDP antiwear additives for maximum protection. It also is very shear stable and resistant to thermal breakdown. As far as drain intervals are concerned, we recommend following the manufacturer recommended drain interval.

Some engine builders have recommended using a diesel rated engine oil, mostly due to the fact that it has a higher amount of the antiwear additives, but the RD30 actually has a higher amount than oils meeting the API CI-4+ specification.

We hope this is helpful.

Darryn Wallace
Sr. Technical Service Representative

AMSOIL INC.
ADDRESS: 1101 Susquehanna Avenue, Superior, WI 54880
E-MAIL: dwallace@amsoil.com
PHONE: 715-399-8324
FAX: 715-392-3097"
 
#89 ·
is there a reason why you want to change from brad penn??
 
#88 ·
i wouldn't really talk to the amsoil dealers directly.... if they give advice that will void manufacturer warranty information, or advice that goes against their own product, they could be liable for damages that happen. that is the same way it happens with shops if you ask them what oil they put in cars.... its always dealer stock oil.


i'm also not impressed with the way amsoil sells their products, through a pyramid scheme of sorts involving recruiting new sales people to increase your profits and sell more product.

fortunately its actually a good product with lots of third party testing, but just like any other oil company they will always steer you towards manufacturer shit and warranty safe instructions :(

even if valvoline sells you redline, and the redline product itself says to change the oil at 8000 miles..... and your manufacturer says to change it at 4000... redline will say to change it at 4000, because thats what the manufacturer wants... they don't care, you change it sooner, they make money.

the real data is in testing the oil yourself.


thanks for the email though craig
 
#91 ·
yeah, my pleasure... agree with your other points too.


is there a reason why you want to change from brad penn??
probably just a ploy to get information out of them.
lol, no ploy. no 'real' reason i'm interested in switching. i'm as confused as anyone regarding any potential benefit of one oil vs another; and like Ian mentioned, Amsoil's products seem to perform well in 3rd party testing. so i've been thinking of trying an Amsoil product for a while; having said that, however, it appears that my 1000 mile stock bottom end has developed rod nock. i'm not intending to imply that is related to the oil; just a convenient time to switch maybe, as i have a stroker motor going in here in a couple weeks.


craig
 
#94 ·
i use olive oil 50w-50
 
#95 · (Edited)
agm you make me laugh! I think aside from how Amsoil sells its oil, they do continually up date and improve there oil because they are a smaller company and are an innovative leader in the market. Like the AMSOIL Sr. Technical Service Representative said, a thin oil with ZDDP will do the trick, Just like Kracin and Craig have been saying. I have a boat with twin 454 that run for long periods of time (2 to 4 hours) around 4000rpm's with flat tappets and it requires the same oil application as the AMSOIL rep mentioned for the 1000 plus hp Supra. As mentioned before though 90 percent of the Supra community really only needs a PAO or Ester based Synthetic 5-30W oil.
 
#96 ·
i am currently using castrol edge 10w 30 but i find that this oil gets very thin so quickly..i am thinking of switching to mobil 1 and try it out
 
#98 ·
i would never do that..lol
i change my oil ever 1500-2000 miles

just that if this is better then the regular mobil 1 i would go this route for the hell of it because its 30 bucks for 5 quarts at walmart LOL
 
#100 ·
if you run a synethetic oil and you don't frequently track your car every other weekend, then you are throwing money out the window by changing every 2k miles on a quality synthetic. and possibly doing more harm than good as a good broken in synethetic oil will release more and better additives to keep bearing life up, as opposed to a fresh oil as additives are released through heat and pressure on the oil over time.



your choice to do whatever, but just like i tell everyone else. don't believe anyones word for it, go read some truthful articles on oils
 
#104 ·
no, i use amsoil basically because it's been run like that in this car for years when the previous owner had it.

mobil 1 synthetics should prove to be about the same, same for german castrol and a couple other notable oils that are harder to come by locally, you won't notice a drastic difference between oils unless your doing something very very wrong.

and yes, if you want to change your oil every 2k, its perfectly safe to use a conventional, but remember. conventional oils breakdown a lot more compared to synthetics that withstand super high temps.

if your turbocharger is oil cooled then your going to want to run a synthetic to prevent premature breakdown if you run the car hard and boost often.
 
#105 ·
Anyone here using Eneos 0-30W for any extended period of time? I tried it for a while but didn't see what the hype was about.
 
#109 ·
That's because it's oil, my man. When it works, it works.

The butt dyno will never read that well.

Take the cheapest Wal-Mart oil in the world for $1.74 a quart or whatever it is, and dyno your car with that shit.

Then take whatever the best oil in the world is and put dyno your car with that shit.

You will see a 10whp difference if you're lucky.
 
#111 ·
I run a loose engine in my car (built bottom end/built head), and my engine builder recommended, strongly, that I run Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Synthetic. As far as the reasoning for this, it's because of the tolerances, and the fact that my bottom end was built to spend the majority of it's time on the track (not drag), at 8,000RPM for up to 30 minutes at a time under high load/high heat.

As for you stock bottom end guys - a good synthetic 10W-30 with manufacturer's recommended viscosity and change interval, will go a long way in your cars, whether stock, BPU, or mild single (hopefully with an oil cooler - if any of you are running a single car, especially at higher boost, without an oil cooler - you need to remedy that, immediately).
 
#121 ·
What is normally used in a 2JZ engine has zero bearing on what you need to run in your "built" 900hp engine.

As I said in my first reply, you need to ask you engine builder what bearing clearances you are running, and then choose the correct weight oil, based on that info. Guess work, or what others run is completely irrelevant.

Saying you should use Greddy oil is a pretty broard statement, as Greddy isnt a viscosity, its a brand.
 
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