Does anyone have an answer for this? It would be greatly appreciated.. ^
Does anyone have an answer for this? It would be greatly appreciated.. ^
your answer can be answered with better searching. but for your sake.... OP is a gawd damn idiot, and everybody here knows it, he just can't keep from spewing BS.
if you are using forged internals and don't need the squirters anymore, plug them up with the proper bolt, or have a machine shop do it the way they feel is best. if you leave them open youll have very low oil pressure.
the answer to this and other oil squirter questions have been talked about in many many threads.
I'm kind of surprised about this thread. I guess a lot of people have issues with this guy, I don't recall ever running into a problem with him.
As far as piston oil squirters go it seems like there is a lot of weird info going around and quite a bit of hatin on em.
Piston oil squirters do not rapidly cool a piston to the point of essentially annealing them. You're spraying 220 degree oil on a hot piston, this is not like a tempering process. The oil squirters are ok guys.
They are deleted by the 'big guys' for a few reasons. It's unnessecary to run them just for some added cooling for 8 seconds. Furthermore anytime you bleed off oil pressure it drops pressure at other orafices. Third being, squirting the bottom of a piston isn't super useful so aftermarket pistons aren't really a good match with them.
That's pretty much it, there isn't anything else to really remark about as far as these applications go.
I ditch my squirts then some blew my motor up form being to lean
and i sent my piston's to JE and they said naa oil squirt delete was not the case it was a bad tune
and my piston's were thermo coated as well
I sudjest if any one does delete them it would not be bad idea to coat your pisont's
if mine were not coated they would be pretty messed up
I do have pic's
good ish piston
all of them in a row
so it shows you how much heat the piston transfers at the rings from my piston running so hot
3 other piston's had sticking rings from deforming
Last edited by NashMan; 01-13-2012 at 03:18 PM.
92 Toyota Supra 7M-GTE pump fuel 585 rwhp/540 torq on a stock block
89 Toyota pickup exo/sas/lifted/35's/lockers
RIP.....86.5 Toyota Supra High comp 9.3.1 7mgte, 57ct Light weight 2980 pounds 347hp 398turq @ 11 psi
i got both blocks just sitting there.read this thread and i still don't know which one to use.i'm gonna flip a coin.
98 VVTi SC300 with single fogger wet NOS system 100 Shot,Front LS400 Series Calipers,Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines,Blacken Emblems,Tanabe Springs,HID kit,EXE Konvex Front 19x8.5,Rear 19x9.5.Nos 14.1@96mph-NA-T-4" intake,Borg Warner 83-75,Stainless steel manifold,Tial 38mm WG,2 Blitz BOV,Aeromotive FPR,850cc,Twin in tank Walbro fuel pump,AEM standalone,Aem Wideband,HKS Cam Gear,Blitz SBC i-D boost Controller
Lol, as Beau mentioned it just depends on your build. If it's just a street build, not 1,000hp build, I would leave them in. I think it is pretty safe to say that if you asked most engine builders who know the 2jz block they will most likely tell you the same thing. I had my short block done by a shop here in norcal known for building both street and drag 2jz's and was told the same thing.
Chasing 600rwhp NOW! ;)
Suprise debates like these happen here as well. LOL this is the same thing in the MR2 world. 3S comes with the squirters but the serious guys that run the 5S block like myself run without the squirters.
I look at it more as a personal preference once you go beyond stock.
91 MR2
830 RWHP / 630 RWTQ
9.78 in the 1/4
Still in the works....
I've known this for years, but who says GE motors don't have oil jets to cool the pistons? Read the last bullet under Section 6 in the '93 New Car Feature Book: http://mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf037.jpg
Hehe... Surprise!
-scott
'95 sc300 6-speed, AEM, T74GTS, DaveH intake,
RLTC, 1000cc inj, Tilton clutch, 272 cams, meth inj, etc.
838whp@32psi: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rMEy3s8I7s
yup and all oil jetted cooled piston's have cross hatch under them to hold the oil to transfer heat if this is not there oil jetting does not work hardly at all
If you notice here on the new ls9 vett vs the lsa ctsv caddy pistons
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...acts-pics.html
...
Last edited by kaan2lee; 05-14-2013 at 12:18 PM.
OK. I have both block 7mge and 7mgte... I prefer to use the 7mgte but I wonder since I look into the ge it dosen't have oil squirts so I'll be deleting it soon since i'll be going forged pistons and rods...
any coment
I think most agree that oil squirters are not needed if your going with forged internals. The common argument used by most the guys who believe oil squirters are useful, is that cars like 911s and ZR1s use them. Well that's because those cars also have dry sump systems, so there is no shortage of oil.
This maybe a never ending debate though.