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EGR ------ Delete

42K views 55 replies 29 participants last post by  Usury 
#1 ·
Who here as disabled their EGR system? Not only just the block off plate but tapping the rear of the head as well. I am not worried about emissions and this will clean up my engine bay tremendously. No more BS vacuum lines. Does anyone have any pics? Anyone have any issues tapping the aluminum head? I know you need to drill it out slow as its aluminum but curious on results. Anyone try to pass emissions after doing a EGR removal?

Thanks!

Trey
 
#2 ·
i have done it...but idk what your talkin about, the block off plate goes on the same place that you would tap the block...sooo..ya..if you dont wanna tap it you could just do that...or both..i think i did both..i can't remember.

But alas, i haven't started my motor so ya..sorry haha

from what i have read you also need a vented gas cap. Can't remember if ppl had problems passing or not. #6 cylinder tends to run hotter too.
 
#3 · (Edited)
My 7m head is under a pile of parts in the backyard, I'll dig it out and take pictures later for you Trey. I only tapped about 3/4" deep or so but the bolt end goes all the way flush with the exhaust port wall.
On the 2j, I used an aluminum rod then welded the end of it.
 
#4 · (Edited)
It's on the list as soon as I get my MAFTPRO dialed in I'm going to start removing all the unnecessary stuff under the hood.

i have done it...but idk what your talkin about, the block off plate goes on the same place that you would tap the block...sooo..ya..if you dont wanna tap it you could just do that...or both..i think i did both..i can't remember.

But alas, i haven't started my motor so ya..sorry haha

from what i have read you also need a vented gas cap. Can't remember if ppl had problems passing or not. #6 cylinder tends to run hotter too.
You need a vented cap when removing your CC not EGR as exhaust gases don't travel through the gas tank.



Does #6 really run hotter?
Does anyone have data proving this theory or not?
Why would it run hotter?
 
#5 ·
No #6 doesn't get hot with the EGR off, its hot with it on. Hence the exhaust fumes get shot back into the back of the intake and guess whose the number one culprit to suck in the fumes...#6 cylinder making it run hotter than all the other

Mine is deleted but I myself don't know what your talking about when you mean drill a hole?
 
#6 · (Edited)
You just make the hole the right size for the tap. You could also just use a tapered threaded plug which also requires tapping the threads. If you have the right size tap and bolt/plug for the existing hole size, then you wouldn't need to drill/resize the hole.
Trey, when I get access to my old head, I'll pull that bolt out and you can have it. It goes all the way to the exhaust port wall. Part of it is machined down to the size of the hole so you don't need to tap threads all the way.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys. Blackdawg... Sorry I wasn't very clear. I was interested in people that have done a block off plate as well as tapped and plugged the head. I am tapping mine as since the head is aluminum I don't want to take the chance of the plate leaking. Plugs are a permanent "fix" if you will. Also for those that have done this I am curious on your egts after the mod. Theory states they should go down since the exhaust isn't recirculated but am curious on some real world results
 
#8 · (Edited)
Having the egr system in theory reduces combustion chamber temps. Taking it out therefore will raise temperature. I took mine out before actually measuring egts, so I don't have actual comparisons. I mainly did it to clean and simplify things. The system also is only active during cruising conditions when intake vacuum is at its highest. It is not active during idle and/or WOT. I'm assuming alot of us are more worried about egts under boost conditions, so no, the egr has no effect there. I passed emissions without it with no issues but I was able to tweak stuff with the MoTeC. So this does not mean that you will also pass. There's also no visual inspection in my case. If your state requires that, well you won't pass obviously if it's missing.
 
#10 ·
well i can post a pic of my block plate if ya want. I think we still tapped it too...just had the plate and wanted to make sure lol
 
#11 ·
don't mean to thread jack trey, but, what the heck do you tap? where? thanks
 
#14 ·
The cooler plate right? I have the two egr block off plates... one for the head, and one for the mani.
 
#16 ·
Can someone please show pictures or further explain why its necessary to drill into the back of your head. I was under the impression that the block off plates were all you needed?
 
#17 ·
They are all you 'need,' because that seals the exhaust and keeps it from going to the intake, but without removing the EGR plate from the back of the head and plugging the exhaust port, you'll always have a little pocket of hot exhaust sitting at the back of the head.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The back of the head already has a port from the exhaust. All that you need to do is tap it and install a plug. Then only one plate is needed on the intake manifold. You can make one easily enough with aluminum plate.

This is a JDM head which comes blocked off with a plate from the factory. I would use a pipe plug to ensure a better seal.


The proper way to remove the EGR is if you remove the EGR system AND the Cooler Plate (2) behind the head and plug the exhaust port with a pipe plug. This Cooler Plate routes the exhaust from the hot side around the back of the no. 6 cylinder to the EGR system. By removing the Cooler Plate it removes this extra exhaust heat from the back side of that cylinder. By just using those block off plates (1&3) you are probably hurting that cylinder more than anything because then the exhaust gases are just trapped around the back of no. 6 without flowing. Also when you do this the second block off plate (3) is not even needed.

Hope this helps,
-Lance

 
#20 ·
Lance, my #6 is already starved for oil so what's wrong with a little exhaust keeping the cylinder company? :p damn 7m's..........

On a serious note.... I don't remember what size tap I used..... If you have a tap and dye set, its easy to figure out and just match that tap with your bolt at the local hardware store. keep it real though..... Stay metric :)
 
#26 ·
there's a few different ways to do this. the easiest is to remove the cooler plate (must be done) block the port on the exhaust side of the back of the head and then another block plate on the plenum. the block plate on the lower intake isnt necessary since nothing flows through it after removing the egr cooler. you can make this stuff out of 1/4in steel plate or just buy the DM kit since it's cheap and works the same. the DM kit also has the cool vac port threaded into it if you wanna run a gauge or whatever from right there. The plug method works fine too but I don't prefer it cause once it's in you cant go back as easily if you need to pass smog.
 
#29 · (Edited)
trust me.......it probable has been cloggeed for the past 15 years........i do belive the ECU /car has better performance with it on, and mpg is better with it working ......... maybe the japan ECU might be nessessary


my EGR lines are clogged as shit but i blocked the vacuum lines 50k ago and have not had a problem, but poor MPG.




also, am i mistaken but doesnt EGR hole for cylinder 6 pust out air to cylinders 1-5?
 
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