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Standard Driveshaft, how much Horsepower can it handle?

21K views 32 replies 15 participants last post by  SilverSupe 
#1 ·
I like to know, if any one have a guess on how much horsepower standard drive shaft can handle?

As we are making a 800-1000 hp street supra..
 
#2 ·
Wow, I have 2 dreams in my life, #1 To Live in Thailand, and #2 To own a MKIV Supra. I already have a Supra, But you lucky bastard have both. I would prefer Pattaya tough ;)
 
#13 ·
Hahaha, sure its a dream come true for me :)
I deam about getting a supra for 18 years.
i dream about moving from Denmark where im from for 10 years.
Worked haaaaad at that goal, and 1½ years ago i was able to do it :)
The only thing i need now is i race/drift track here in phuket, then life would be perfect :) hahaha
 
#3 ·
Also does aftermarket 1 pièce carbonfiber driveshaft will save HP by been lighter and 1 pièce, so installing them sooner would not be a waste as you save wheel HP ? I have heard aftermarket driveshaft are noisy as they remove all the rubber cushions the oem shaft got ?
 
#4 · (Edited)
we are making a 800-1000 hp street supra..
Not this much. At least not for long! Lol. The big sponsor's have some good replacement options.
 
#5 ·
The 1 peice usually come with billet aluminum adapters so yes it does get noisy as drivetrain noises are amplified. It's not hp that kills the stock one is wheel hop and launching on sticky tires is what snaps them, so if your making 800 to 1k then get one for some cheap insurance rather than having a stock one snap and tear stuff up underneath the car. Also check out the wotm or whatever 2 peice modded driveshafts.
 
#6 ·
But other than the added noise, do we lose less WHP by switching the oem driveshaft to a one piece carbon fiber driveshaft ? I know rotating mass equal 3 time the standing mass, but the center of rotation of a drive shaft is quite small.... So saving 22lbs here might not translate to 66lbs of standing still mass.... Any idea ?
 
#7 ·
But other than the added noise, do we lose less WHP by switching the oem driveshaft to a one piece carbon fiber driveshaft ?
You would GAIN power by switching your factory driveshaft out for a lighter, one-piece shaft. Less rotational mass.
 
#8 ·
The driveshaft doesn't create HP, it's HP available at the flywheel, just normally lost in the oem driveshaft, that is why I said lose less WHP.... anyway, that's the question, how many % WHP we get by using a carbonfiber driveshaft, my guess is 1-2% no more and probably less than a fidanza lightweigh flywheel......
 
#9 · (Edited)
I didn't say it created horsepower. I said you GAIN horsepower(yes, I know it's already there), by swapping out the stocker for a lighter driveshaft. But you'll most likely never notice the power gain that comes from switching them out. At least I've never noticed much on my cars. I don't think the minimal power gain is the reason for most of us that swap them out. For us, it's the fact that the factory shaft won't hold the power we're putting down.
 
#10 ·
Ok great yeah we awas sayign the same thing finally ! I know it's not enough HP saved by the carbon fiber drive shaft to justify the 1000$ or so expense, but my question for someone changing it was around what level of HP (in percentage as it depend of each-one setup) can be saved by switching to carbonfiber driveshaft ?
 
#11 ·
The stock driveshaft isnt a problem unless you have other issues, ie wheelhop. I would guess it can take quite a bit of horsepower but generally doesnt live due to "other" issues....its the weak link. Just remember, when you eliminate the weakest link, the next thing up is the next to break and can be quite a bit more than a $500 driveshaft.
 
#12 ·
I've broken a stock driveshaft around 600 rwhp on drag radials. If you have the skinny/slick combo I'm sure you can get away with much more hp before you have a problem.
 
#15 ·
ill let the more knowledgable guys chime in on that but yes sounds right, and like everyone mentioned WHEEL HOP is the biggest enemy of drivegear parts. ive broken CVs, driveshafts, transmissions and even motor mounts and trans mounts from it, some on other cars but the concept is the same wheel hop is very violent on the parts.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the reply :)
Hopefully when the car is ready in 10 days or so, it will not wheel hop, if so, ill look in to how to make it stop..
One in this post said, if you take out the weak link driveshaft, you will break something else.. more expensive :( haha
Yeahh true.. ill leve the stock shaft in it until, all bugs are sorted, no wheel hopping and stuf, then ill upgrade, i think..

Question, will you have much damage when the shaft breaks? om other parts??
 
#17 ·
Probabilty alone dictates that you'll probably blow your diff before the oem driveshaft goes. Unless you have a TRD LSD or equivalent. 800 HP though? At around 600 I would start to replace everything in the drivetrain I.E. Driveshaft, transmission components, axels, bushings...
 
#20 ·
At around 600 I would start to replace everything in the drivetrain I.E. Driveshaft, transmission components, axels, bushings...
I disagree with this. It's not necessary at this power level(600 wheel).

what things in the transmission needs to be changed? to handle the power?
How much power are you making, again? Around 800rwhp?
 
#19 ·
yeahh i will change the LSD to TRD, after i get it..
and the Driveshaft to : 2 pcs from WOTM http://www.wotm.com/wosudr.html
that one has no noice and can handle the power...
why have noice, vibrations, when you dont have to??
the 2 pcs from WOTM http://www.wotm.com/wosudr.html
can take the power :)

right?

what things in the transmission needs to be changed? to handle the power?
 
#21 ·
We are going to keep it at 800hp maybe 900..
just found out the rods and piston are not upgrades :(
old owner lie to me about that.. and engine finished and put in the car already :( so ill drive it as long as it lasts and total rebuild it when it blow up... if it does haha.
hopefully it will last 1 year or 2, and ill rebuild it from scratch..
 
#24 ·
im adding a KAAZ 2 Way LSD to the car :)
Keeping the stock driveshaft for now.
Car already have a OS Giken 3 plate clutch.


All brushings and things under the car will be changed!
Post up some pics man. I'm interested.
 
#31 ·
I have had my car probably 12 years now and drag race a TON....and all power levels and STILL on my original two piece DS. So i would not worry about it if not drag racing or just wait til it breaks then upgrade. IF it ever breaks. Every car is different and different driving goes into play, but for the most part i think alot of people go wayyyyy overboard on drivetrain fortification for street cars. Simply no need. I mean if you go out on street and wheel hop all the way down over and over not realizing whats going on and dont figure out how to drive to eliminate it, then nothing will save you from breaking no matter what you upgrade.
 
#32 ·
1. its not the hp that breaks parts that twist...its the torque. Old indy Honda motors ran 5.5" twin disk AP racing clutch setup while making 800+ horsepower and didnt slip the clutch. why because they created very little torque and relied on rpm and gearing for acceleration.

2. whoever said lighter driveshaft creates or loses less hp is inaccurate. you dont lose less hp and you dont make any either. less rotating mass allows for faster acceleration of the drivetrain components. same concept as getting a lightened flywheel. it will not make more horsepower and it will not rob you of horsepower either but it will allow your engine to accelerate faster and decelerate faster.
 
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