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How Much Horsepower the Stock 2JZGTE Longblock can ACtUALLY HANDLE

180K views 72 replies 29 participants last post by  Craig Bush 
#1 ·
I'm sure there is a thread on here somewhere but none up to date... Starting my winter build and before i go fully built i want to test the stock long block out for power.. My moor has 150k and has never been opened...

Just curious what numbers you guys laid on STOCK LONGBLOCK, how long it lasted, what boost was ran and turbo setup...

Im running a 4508R setup, gonna go hypertune, or SP intake manifold, than supporting mods from there ( Fueling, EMS, ETC ) But on basic longblock, wanna know how far i can push it and appx how long it would last.. Obviously every engines differnet, but for the most part there relatively the same...

Thanks Guys!
 
#2 · (Edited)
:drama:


btw stock long block 125k been 67mm since 55k stock fuel till 116k then kill ever since
 
#7 ·
:ugh2:

Car has never seen more stock psi... I am sure it was beaten as any supra for the most part is beaten, just the nature... Ive had the car for a few months and havent really gotten on it yet, as there is no real reason, there turds stock lol and i appreciate the car for its being... time has come to build it... my goals are to have a streetable track car, or i guess you could say trackable street car... I am only going to race it on the track on grudge races ( every friday night )... other than that it will be a street machine... My over all goal was to make 1150whp on E85... I know i will not get close to that unless going FB, nd all the headwork to follow... But on the street or even track 6--800hp is a good number.. so i was thinknig if i could get 850whp on stock motor for a season, id be happy... It blows it blows than i can build it... Or should i just initially build it and it be once and done? Im second guessing myself really.. I still have to do the 6 speed swap and all this winter, and works been slow lately thats only reason im second guessing gonig fully built out of the gate... I am the kind of guy who wont bring a car out unless its perfect or absolutely insane, as first impressions are key... Ugh
 
#9 ·
Whats your car? I may have to take you up on that...i always build my cars through my shop, gets my good bussiness etc, Ive built every car ive owned, i am always skeptical on buying built cars, due to the price, plus you dont know what all they did if they took shortcuts or not, than you get a problem u cannot fix etc... Just stupid shit.. PM the info etc though. If i like it ill have to sell my car :O
 
#11 ·
Different EMS, Different Fueling ( E85 ), has impact on engine life, Parts now differ from parts 5 years ago, 8 years ago, even 2 years ago, always more engineered, material, grade, weight.. Everything comes into play when building an engine... But as far as the stock block part, It does highly depend on your tune, therefore your EMS, and Fueling...
 
#12 ·
But I think im gonig to buy a shortblock, to build until this motor goes.. so real question is, what give out first normally... The Rods bend ? or what? I have had a car in the past destroy a valve, than it made its way into the turbo destroying my turbo.. Thats my bigest fear
 
#14 ·
Totally agree.. The day my Supra made 750 WHP on the stock motor, I already had a fully built motor sitting in the shop fully prepped and ready...

But then I kicked myself for doing that too, because my stock motor lasted me a long time... I had over 1000 WHP for 2 years now and I am still on the same motor, and the car's lowest boost setting nets me 850 WHP right... In chronological order, my stock motor had 550 WHP for one year, 650 WHP for 3 mths, 750 WHP for another 3 mths, 900 WHP for a year, and 1000 WHP for 2 years. Total mileage under stress is about 22000 miles. It had way too many topspeed pulls on it, and frequent trips to 320 km/h.

As a result, I am now worried that my "built" motor has been sitting for so long in the shop, and all sort of warranty on the internals are bygones now... I did store it properly (coated with oil) and wrapped the shit out of it so it doesn't rust.

The common failures are pistons, and rod bearings. The rods themselves rarely bend unless something was really wrong with the setup. Quite often too, the factory tensioner fails, and the timing belt jumps and wipes out the motor too.
 
#15 ·
correct me if I am wrong, but the Supra engine is non interference, why would the timing belt breaking, destroy the motor??
If the timing belt pops, line everything back up, throw a new belt on it and go.....
 
#19 ·
First of all, learn the difference between there, their and they're, im not a gramma nazzi but for fucks sake dude... learn some english, and this is coming from an immigrant.

Second of all, more engineering done? Seriously? you do realize that since their early revisions these engines use the same parts. You think toyota would go back and revise the material they use in the connecting rods because guys cant safely make 1000rwhp? Lol.

Third, I highly doubt you did any searching, just as I highly doubt you will be building a 1000rwhp 6 spd car. You said you never even gotten on it in the supra yet? have you ever owned a fast car? Maybe one you built through your shop?

Also, your biggest fear is dropping a valve and destroying a turbo??? Really? I think you should reconsider. Throwing a rod at your local friday night grudge race and spewing oil under your tires which consequently puts you into the wall (best case scenario) or into the other driver (worst case scenario) with insurance not covering a thing since you're at the track. But hey, i guess for some people $2000 worth of turbo is more important.

Im sorry to come off so harsh but I think you need a reality check, Ive seen a lot of people jump on here talking about doing this and doing that w/out really considering what all is involved and what it would take, and not doing any research.

With that said, the only problematic area i have heard of with the stock block at high hp is breaking rods. And no, not bending, you wont ever bend a rod under compression (considering you aren't an idiot and are firing at the correct degree btdc) you will always break the rod in tension as it travels over top dead center and start pulling down on the piston. Cheap solution to making reliable 800rwhp? Throw in 300$ worth of eagle rods. People talk shit about them all the time but the truth is i personally haven't seen one have a catastrophic failure at that torque level. And that brings me to the next point, people always ask the wrong question... its not HP that breaks things, its torque. You want power? build up the head and spin the motor to 9 grand, you'll make tons of power seeing how its nothing but the rate of work.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Third, I highly doubt you did any searching, just as I highly doubt you will be building a 1000rwhp 6 spd car. You said you never even gotten on it in the supra yet? have you ever owned a fast car? Maybe one you built through your shop?
Despite being just 21 last car made, an 03 Cobra made somewhere in the neighborhood of 7xx whp. The supra is the replacement, and at bpu level, it naturally being a few hundred hp less, it felt extremely slow, hence the reason why he rarely got on it.

He has had other decently quick cars from modded Lightnings, to STi's etc, and he has been racing since elementary school. Currently he is installing a Boost Logic GT45 kit on the car with CCW drag wheels, just working on odds and ends, then on to fuel, EMS, 6 speed swap, cage, etc.

While drag cars aren't my thing, at least it wont be a garage/dyno queen.
 
#20 ·
Omg there is so much incorrect info in this thread its silly. Some or you guys gave managed to not only not answer the guys question to ut give him such wronginfo lord knows what his finals conclusion here will be!

150k. No worse than 100k. His the car was treated means more than the miles.
Hks 272 are non interferance cams
 
#44 ·
Hks 272 are non interferance cams
Good to know... My customers probably had oversized valves / milled head somewhere in the mix.
 
#25 ·
Point very well made, however, the rods probably bent after being weakened during the stretching. All metals are much weaker in tension than they are in compression, hence why every metal is tested for their Tensile strength. Guess I worded it wrong.

My other points still stand, regardless of a previous garage list. Sorry, but over time as these threads come and go the guys that have been on here for a while get more towards the "when i see it i'll believe it" mentality, especially with the younger crowd. Im not old, but I was tehre, and i made up my magical parts lists but then came across reality. Just sayin :)
 
#27 ·
Also, you dont take your kia or hyundai or whatever out and beat the snot out of it do you? it wont get faster the more you beat it, its slow, so why beat it ? IMO, when people see supras they think nasty, insane cars, exotic... Why would i get on it and people than think there slow? Than next time they see my car theyll say, oh that car is slow... Not that i car to much what people say, but its the point and my morals...:dunno:

And to you who are actually helping, talking about this topic, I thank you!
 
#28 ·
A) To get this out of the way, i dont have the little-dick syndrome and couldn't give a shit less about someone who has a faster supra, or any other car, than mine. Unlike you I enjoy driving my car, regardless of how fast people think it is. It only makes 540rwhp on pump and is plenty satisfactory for a street car, considering that its an NA-t. There will always be a faster car out there than you. If you doubt that, you build your 1000rwhp car and I'll have a grudge race lined up for you, unless you dont like running a 6spd car in an 1/8th mile.

B) If you read my post, I really am not trying to be an asshole, and have given you input to your question.

C) Again with the engineering. You asked about the longevity of the engine. THE STOCK SHORT BLOCK. When answering your question I am assuming that your car is running a damn-near ideal tune, so improvements in the EMS (wtf has improved in teh ems to keep the rods from snapping in an engine?) have nothing to do with how long the parts due to THEIR physical limits, which is what limits the factory engines. If an engine fails dues to a tune issue obviously it is not short-block limited.

D) You obviously aren't the sharpest tool in the shed if you didnt read my turbo-breaking being the worst case scenario comment. I will restate once more. You throw a rod, put a hole in the side of your block, drop oil under your rear tires, slide into the wall doing 100+ mph. And you are telling me the $3000 (i am SOOOOO Terribly sorry i underestimated the price of your turbo by a fraction of a percent in the total cost of the build) turbo blowing up is the worst case?

E) And lastly, basic grammar does matter, whther on th internet or not you ignorant being. Im not asking for comas, and periods and capitalization, but there is a big fucking difference between There, Their, They're, and now to add to the list: Then and Than.


with that said im out. Good luck on your build, seriously.
 
#31 ·
A) To get this out of the way, i dont have the little-dick syndrome and couldn't give a shit less about someone who has a faster supra, or any other car, than mine. Unlike you I enjoy driving my car, regardless of how fast people think it is. It only makes 540rwhp on pump and is plenty satisfactory for a street car, considering that its an NA-t. There will always be a faster car out there than you. If you doubt that, you build your 1000rwhp car and I'll have a grudge race lined up for you, unless you dont like running a 6spd car in an 1/8th mile.

B) If you read my post, I really am not trying to be an asshole, and have given you input to your question.

C) Again with the engineering. You asked about the longevity of the engine. THE STOCK SHORT BLOCK. When answering your question I am assuming that your car is running a damn-near ideal tune, so improvements in the EMS (wtf has improved in teh ems to keep the rods from snapping in an engine?) have nothing to do with how long the parts due to THEIR physical limits, which is what limits the factory engines. If an engine fails dues to a tune issue obviously it is not short-block limited.

D) You obviously aren't the sharpest tool in the shed if you didnt read my turbo-breaking being the worst case scenario comment. I will restate once more. You throw a rod, put a hole in the side of your block, drop oil under your rear tires, slide into the wall doing 100+ mph. And you are telling me the $3000 (i am SOOOOO Terribly sorry i underestimated the price of your turbo by a fraction of a percent in the total cost of the build) turbo blowing up is the worst case?

E) And lastly, basic grammar does matter, whther on th internet or not you ignorant being. Im not asking for comas, and periods and capitalization, but there is a big fucking difference between There, Their, They're, and now to add to the list: Then and Than.

with that said im out. Good luck on your build, seriously.

B.) Neither was I, you came out pretty derogatory though
C.)the Ems has everything to do vwith the factor of the roads, due to how car off timing is, how controlled fuel is, knock, spark, etc... But we are both right in different manners, so no more arguing on that note...
D.)And yes i understand what your saying.... do you know where i am comnig from as well...:wtf:



Thanks, and you as well...
 
#30 ·
look at the facts and decide by yourself. if i wanted 1000rwhp i would leave the block and crank intact on the longblock. all other stuff i would change them
stock crank and block was tested up to 1700+ hp if that helps you so it will handle 1000rwhp.
white beast supra was beating the shit out of it at 900rwhp on stock longblock? for 2-3 years when it finally melt a piston
other owners bend the rods at 600+-whp.
others lost compression-piston rings at stock power in your mileage
others spun a bearing at 600+-whp
others had stock main cap bearing failure at 1000+-whp on built longblock
Oem longblock has the same parts since 1992. nothing changed
If a worn part doesnt give up at that power another one will which after the longblock the head will lift on a bad scenario on stock head bolts
Lots of parts can go wrong even if you are the best tuner in the world.a bad coil causing missfire at that power level could cost you the whole engine.i dont know anyone that can predict that.
So thats why everyone changes everything in the longblock for 1500+ hp rated parts when he is after more than 1000whp . you decide
 
#34 · (Edited)
im puttin 700rwhp through a stock bottom end with 110k miles on it right now. revvin to 8300. for about half a year. before that she survived lil over 600rwhp beating the shit out of it for a year.

i believe forcefed motorsports has been running their 1100rwhp drag supra with stock bottom end and ARP bolts for a year or so. its been holding up and just wont blow up. i cant recall the ET or trap but i think its like 8's @ 170mph that sound right?

ive heard an account of a supra running around 700rwhp fine indefinitely and then they put nitrous in it one day and it blew up instantly on the dyno. blew a rod out the side of the block if i recall correct.

so in my opinion your milage will vary but you should be able to get away with 600-800hp with the key being indefinitely.
 
#36 ·
dont the 2000+ hp gas motorsports 2jz have stock crank?
 
#40 · (Edited)
you should talk to marko. i dont know alot of technical specs on the car. but i expect they have at least cams, but it may be a fully built head they slapped on. no idea which ARP hardware. i could hawk some pictures and i may be able to see which cam gears it has but you should contact marko and probe him.

im running a stock TT headgasket. as most people are on here. my car runs mint at 700. 24~ psi on pump gas 94 octane and 100% meth. aem v2 ems. traction is sketchy at best in 3rd gear, but you can fix that with some tires. put some toyo r888 in my opinion.
my car has good street driveability. its been on the dyno for 7 hours so its pretty dialed in.


the important thing for you to know is that these motors are freaks. similar to a steroid juice monkey. oem forged rods and crank and cast iron block allow you to reach some serious power and boost. oem head is setup to run some big power aswell. the cams are unoptimal but the hardware is there to support your needs. excluding valve float/spitting a shim which increases odds as rpm goes up. 7k rpm is no big deal on a stock head.
but as with anything it gets more dangerous as you keep adding power and expecting it to hold up.
 
#41 ·
Torque and piston speed are what you have to watch out for. The rods will bend, and the pistons are heavy! 650wtq is the safe max. I generally don't like much over 600wtq and 7500 rpm on a stock short block for people that plan to make the motor last more then a season.

I compressed/bent 2 rods to the point the piston was 1/8" below the deck at TDC with about 1000 miles at 700wtq and 8000rpm in my own car (Driven HARD)

There's plenty of freaks and examples of out of the norm out there. The gamble is up to the individual. It's your money/motor.
 
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