My v160 rebuild (PICS)

[1A1]

Sent you a PM swing lo.

Steve K.

[sanctfy]

can i get some info on measuring the thrust clearance on the gears? the manual i downloaded doesnt have very good pictures. i just pulled 5th counter and i dont want to proceed til i can get better information on where exactly im supposed to measure. if possible a picture.

[twinturbosupra94]

For people that want a PDF of the V160, I compiled one.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/b11y36

Thanks swinglo

[Scotchington]

***UPDATE***



I received another transmission today from a forum member and wanted to share the problem ID and resolution.

I was told the trans had whining gears with some gears whining louder than others. The owner said after the initial whine developed, upon investigation, he unplugged the drain and barely any fluid came out. He then refilled the trans and found the fluid became very low again. This time he identified the rear seal as the cause of the leak.

Upon my disassembly, the faces of the gears had nasty scores on them, primarily 2nd and 3rd gear, the same two who were causing the loudest whine. Other than that, the only other issues with this trans were the 2nd gear dog teeth grounded to hell along with the 1/2 slider hub teeth. What sucks is that all the gears and the counter shaft will need to be replaced to cure the whining.


First, notice the collections on the magnet:





This is second gear. Notice the scores towards the edges of the gear faces:


Now notice the grounded down dog teeth on 2nd gear:




Here is 3rd gear. Notice how much more intense the scores are on this gear:



Now, here are the scores on the counter shaft. Mind you, these are the counter gears for 2nd and 3rd:

[Anthony.A]

Would you mind posting some photos of good dog teeth from the tranny and also any info about the set you made that is not obvious from the photo would be great like what you did with the pipe that the main shaft is balanced on. Is that a washer welded on to a piece of pipe so that the input shaft will sit and balance it's self? Would using a old throw out bearing pressed into a pipe end be a good solution?

Thanks again for your posts the trans is the one area of the car I have not done much with and I am hoping this thread and a service manual will help me rebuild a Subaru transmission.

TIA,
Anthony

[Scotchington]

Would you mind posting some photos of good dog teeth

Good dog teeth:

[98szr]

Brilliant thread - saved!

Love the attention to detail, great work

[bitshftr]

swing lo, can the rear seal be replaced without opening up the tranny? I think mine is leaking.

[Scotchington]

^ If you think you can pop the seal out from the outside of the trans, I don't see why you couldn't do the rear seal with the trans in the car, however, you normally pop the rear case to do it per the manual. I've never replaced a rear seal without popping the case open, but that's not to say it cannot be done.

http://mkiv.com/tmp/6spd_parts/manua...4-49/MT-46.JPG

[carchitect]

Good work on the trans overhaul. From one guy who has overhauled several gearboxes and auto trannys, I have a few things to share to help you here.

In the past several guys have removed the roll pins to take apart the gearboxes. The roll pins are not serviceable and the spring tension from reusing them will not be as tight as they were if they were new. The gearboxes I've found have had the pins fall out and engage multiple gears at the same time, causing the rear wheels to lock up during vehicle being in motion. I'd hate for this to happen to you (and chances are high that it may not happen). In the future, never remove the roll pins from the forks and rods. They are serviced together. I've personally made my own fixture using a 1/4" mild steel plate and pipe. They call this item a stand (p/n#09310-14010) in the V160 repair manual. The puller for the 6th counter shaft gear I've made uses 12.9 grade bolts and a robust harmonic balancer puller with a bearing within. Taking it apart and going back together is a whole lot easier with the stand. I never use a torch to warm up anything. I don't like the idea of unevenly heating any hardened treated high strength steel with it. I tend to place these parts in boiling hot water instead. But for reassembly, I use gear oil 80w90 and a press and usually don't have any issues with it.

I think you've already figured out that 5-6th shift is backwards compared to the 1-2nd, and 3-4th shift. Counter shaft isn't loaded in 5th but it is in all the remaining gears.

I'm looking into modding the reverse drive to use a 7th gear from the new 991 gearbox. Still awaiting till Porsche list it in their parts catalog. The 6th on the new 991 is almost the same as the 6th on the V160. I also think if the rear case is modded and new shafts are installed, with the shift interlock plate removed, this gearbox could be changed to sequential operation.

[Scotchington]

Good work on the trans overhaul. From one guy who has overhauled several gearboxes and auto trannys, I have a few things to share to help you here.

Thanks, carchitecht! That means a lot coming from a guru like you. I read a few of your posts before I rebuilt mine.

In the past several guys have removed the roll pins to take apart the gearboxes. The roll pins are not serviceable and the spring tension from reusing them will not be as tight as they were if they were new. The gearboxes I've found have had the pins fall out and engage multiple gears at the same time, causing the rear wheels to lock up during vehicle being in motion. I'd hate for this to happen to you (and chances are high that it may not happen). In the future, never remove the roll pins from the forks and rods. They are serviced together. I've personally made my own fixture using a 1/4" mild steel plate and pipe. They call this item a stand (p/n#09310-14010) in the V160 repair manual.

YES! I read a post of yours stating this, and although I knew about not removing the pins before I rebuilt mine, I took the pins out of my trans because I hadn't made a jig (stand) yet. Fresh roll pins went into my trans, and none of the boxes I've done since mine have had the roll pins removed being that I have a stand now. What a difference the stand made. Funny you posted this as I'm tearing one apart as we speak. This particular trans came out of a 900whp S2000, but here is a pic to reference the stand I made:

The puller for the 6th counter shaft gear I've made uses 12.9 grade bolts and a robust harmonic balancer puller with a bearing within. Taking it apart and going back together is a whole lot easier with the stand. I never use a torch to warm up anything. I don't like the idea of unevenly heating any hardened treated high strength steel with it. I tend to place these parts in boiling hot water instead. But for reassembly, I use gear oil 80w90 and a press and usually don't have any issues with it.

I made a custom 4-point puller that uses 12.9 bolts as well. I've found that the counter 6th gear either comes off easy, or tends to be a PITA!!!!! Each time I break a box down, I dread getting to that gear each and every time. I'd like to see a pic of the puller you use if you don't mind.

Have you tried dry ice to pull the counter gears off?




As for the heating is concerned, I bought a small oven off CL to remedy that.

I think you've already figured out that 5-6th shift is backwards compared to the 1-2nd, and 3-4th shift. Counter shaft isn't loaded in 5th but it is in all the remaining gears.

I'm looking into modding the reverse drive to use a 7th gear from the new 991 gearbox. Still awaiting till Porsche list it in their parts catalog. The 6th on the new 991 is almost the same as the 6th on the V160. I also think if the rear case is modded and new shafts are installed, with the shift interlock plate removed, this gearbox could be changed to sequential operation.

I have been obsessed with sequential boxes ever since watching the JGTC cars utilizing Hollinger/HKS sequential boxes. To modify the v160 into a sequential unit would be a feat.

[turbodragnovice]

I have the Toyota v160 special service tool kit which consists of specialized gear pullers, a 20 ton A frame press, mic's, calipers, ect, and a 32 mm socket.

Other than a 42mm 12pt can you think of any other tools needed? Is the cylinder gauge required?

My v160 shifts really smooth, is quiet, and is fairly low mile 60ish k except for a slight quick grind going into 3rd at 6500+ rpm. It sounds like an instantaneous crunch going into third at full throttle above 6500 rpm.

With replacing the minimal parts (just what is wrong with third gear) what is ballpark on parts?
(I am thinking... 3rd gear, 3/4 collar, and 3rd gear synchros)

[cuemaster]

best thread in the history of sf. there i said it. cudos

[Scotchington]

I have the Toyota v160 special service tool kit which consists of specialized gear pullers, a 20 ton A frame press, mic's, calipers, ect, and a 32 mm socket.

Other than a 42mm 12pt can you think of any other tools needed? Is the cylinder gauge required?

Sounds like you have everything required except for a dial bore gauge (cylinder gauge). Every race and gear I check with the bore gauge has never been out of spec, but I still mic/gauge everything per the manual as to not get complacent.

My v160 shifts really smooth, is quiet, and is fairly low mile 60ish k except for a slight quick grind going into 3rd at 6500+ rpm. It sounds like an instantaneous crunch going into third at full throttle above 6500 rpm.

With replacing the minimal parts (just what is wrong with third gear) what is ballpark on parts?
(I am thinking... 3rd gear, 3/4 collar, and 3rd gear synchros)

I'm going to tell you to replace ALL the synchros while you're in there. Prices for the specific parts you listed will most likely be a couple hundred bucks. But those are just the parts that are likely damaged based on what you know at the current. You never know what else you may want to replace while you're in it.

Definitely check with Curt as he KNOWS his way around the parts store.

best thread in the history of sf. there i said it. cudos

I'm humbled.

[Scotchington]

We all know that incorrect engagement destroys the dog teeth, and slider hub teeth within your transmission. Every time you hear a grind when shifting gears, this will be the result:


Dog teeth on gear:


Teeth on slider hub:

[Ask92]

Granny shiftin not double clutchin like you should... Awesome to see the insides of the transmission! Not that it makes me want to take one apart, ever....

[Scotchington]

In case all you DIYers didn't know, try using dry ice to pull the counter 5/6 gears off. These two gears can sometimes be a ROYAL BITCH to remove, but I just broke down three v160's in the last two days using the ice. Pack the area with ice, let sit for 15-20 minutes, then use a puller as you normally would. You should be able to pick up dry ice from publix, or your local market. The gears "should" slide off effortlessly.

[dee_rz]

So Informative :-) great thread :-)