rear end

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  1. #1

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    rear end

    i have a 87 7mge and was going to swap a 7mgte in to the car. i know the tranny is diff so that would have to change also. but the rear end whould i have to change that ? i know its diff but i hear people using the 7mge rear ends for quicker start from a dead stop. if so what is the diff and how much hp would i be able to have before it blows ?

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  3. #2
    Captain Slow. K_SHAN's Avatar
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    the factory 87- early 89 are a 3.9#.. the 89 up are a 3.73.(tall = top speed)

    I believe ge non lsd rear ends are 4.10? (short = getting up to speed quicker)

    just don't launch without preloading.. you will rip the teeth off the ring gear. (theres not really a number of hp *since hp is tq over time* so it would be more like how much tq can it handle..)
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  4. #3
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    Your car being a ge means it has a 430 rear end. If it is a sport package it will have a LSD rear. Non sport packages have an open differential. You can check the vin to determine the original rear gear, but the easiest way it to jack the rear end off the ground and spin a rear tire. If the other rear tire spins the same way it is posi. If it spins the other way it is an open diff.

  5. #4
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Your right mclovindsupra.
    The 4.1 ratio is a JDM gear set, although many of them have found their way into this country.

    marshall739, any of the MkIII rear ends will take way more power than you most likely will ever make.

    What kills them are high rpm launches, with a heavy stock flywheel, sticky drag slicks, on sticky drag tracks.
    If your running street tires, and just doing stop-lite to stop-lite, your going to make tire smoke way before you hurt the Toyota 8" diff.
    A lot of peole run the 3.7 gears to limit tire slip, as it reduces torque to the tires.

    If your making 800+ hp, and running slicks at the strip, your going to break driveline parts, no matter what car your running.
    People who do that seriously, change out parts on a regular basis just to keep from losing a car due to a snapped axle, or blown trans putting them into a wall.
    That is just the facts of life when drag racing.
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  6. #5

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    alright thanks sounds like what i asked was answered. it was just a matter of which car to fix up and scrap / sell the other. my n/a has awesome body (bad passanger fender tho) and mint floor with everything all orgional. the black turbo has rebuild engine and turbo, redone front end new cluch, new fenders, new brakes and tires, horrible floor, bad interior ( i was going to swap out from the white one ), and some elec issues. from what i said what would be the one you think is worth fixing up ?

  7. #6
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    I personally would pull the good parts from the turbo, and transfer them to the solid shell.
    Last edited by sixpack; 08-12-2012 at 02:41 PM.

  8. #7

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    well thats what i was going to do but i live on a military base and i cant go pulling engines were i live. and i odnt want to pay to get it done cause i can do it my self. ill just sell the turbo car and get a 1jz next year and put in it.

  9. #8
    LAG?? Learn to drive... supraracer01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Your right mclovindsupra.
    The 4.1 ratio is a JDM gear set, although many of them have found their way into this country.

    marshall739, any of the MkIII rear ends will take way more power than you most likely will ever make.

    What kills them are high rpm launches, with a heavy stock flywheel, sticky drag slicks, on sticky drag tracks.
    If your running street tires, and just doing stop-lite to stop-lite, your going to make tire smoke way before you hurt the Toyota 8" diff.
    A lot of peole run the 3.7 gears to limit tire slip, as it reduces torque to the tires.

    If your making 800+ hp, and running slicks at the strip, your going to break driveline parts, no matter what car your running.
    People who do that seriously, change out parts on a regular basis just to keep from losing a car due to a snapped axle, or blown trans putting them into a wall.
    That is just the facts of life when drag racing.
    finally someone who knows what they are talking about...


    4.30's are for people who dont make power or HAVE traction.. stick with 3.90's. Best of both worlds, if you make over 700whp, 3.72's are your friend...(or you want better mpg, lol)
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  10. #9
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    Pre '89's (3.91) also have a stronger spring in them which is no longer available from Toyota.

  11. #10
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    OP is from Canada so assuming the car is Canadian he will have a LSD.

  12. #11
    Captain Slow. K_SHAN's Avatar
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    whats a 800+hp mk3..

  13. #12
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    ^Ask Duane.
    Last edited by mclovindsupra; 08-13-2012 at 02:42 PM.

  14. #13
    Captain Slow. K_SHAN's Avatar
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    you missed the joke..

  15. #14
    Now with JDM tyteness! foreverpsycotic's Avatar
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    My 4.30s made the car super fun when it was stock twin (and with MKIV wheels and stock size tires, the 4.11 speedo gear was a few MPH off, nothing bad) I am planning on ditching them for a 3.91 when I finish my never ending build.

  16. #15
    i got another question. i got an 89 turbo, with the 3.73, and i got a spare 87 N/A with the 4.30. where i'm located parts are hard to get, and take forever getting here. so the car is still pretty stock. just a 3 inch turbo back exhaust. i was wondering will the 4.30 help me out on the 1/4?

  17. #16
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    Depends entirely on the individual car. Too many other factors like tire size etc etc.

  18. #17

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    my car is from 10/88 (89 N/A sport pkg model) with LSD... guess it's the 4.30?

  19. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SerenaSecrecy View Post
    my car is from 10/88 (89 N/A sport pkg model) with LSD... guess it's the 4.30?
    Correct.

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