What were they missing?
93 turbo targa
I couldn't tell you anymore. It was a couple years ago and I forget which were missing but it was at least one or maybe two per side that only the R2 set had, and I think the R2 set was missing one or two the Powerflex set had. It was stupid so I bought both sets and gave the leftovers away to my friend or I may have thrown them in the garbage, thinking nobody would want to buy an incomplete set.
I dunno if I would use solid alum bushings. I would think how its mounted it would need some crushing or it might wear funny.
Yea I wouldn't think that al would be a good idea at all unless you want the steering wheel to shake a lot.
1993.5 Anthracite 6 SPD // PRO EFI // PTE6766 // 3-Row // E-85 Fuel Sys // PHR I/M // GSC // CP 10/1 motor // Manley // RPS C/C // CCW C14 // Brembo BBK // TRD LSD
I did this and i removed my rack for ease of installation but im sure you can do it in the car if the engine is out. It took me 2 minutes to get them out. The key was an Air hammer . I inserted the pencil tip of the air hammer bit inside the hole of the stock bushing. Pulled the trigger and they came right out. hope that helps some of you guys.
1994 MKIV Supra Ms3 BWs376 Th400 and some juice.
9.4 @ 150mph 1.4 60 foot
Perhaps Aaron from DM can come in here and comment on them.
Last edited by Northstar; 07-10-2013 at 08:35 AM.
Just got my R2 kit in today, will be doing them tomorrow.
Thanks to rawfish and this thread I jumped on the bandwagon and purchased new steering rack bushings. I noticed that one of the my factory bushings was torn on top but wasn't sure if I wanted to replace it. After reading this thread and seeing how rawfish's bushings looked I was convinced I needed to change mine.
Tuesday I ordered the R2 bushings from MVP and they quickly arrived today so I got to work and replaced them. With the engine out, the swap is fairly simple. The only difficult task was removing the stock bushings, I pounded them out with a hammer and socket. Had the engine been in, I can see it being much more difficult. Here are a few pictures from the swap.
Here is the large bushing on the passenger side. Similar to rawfish, mine was in good shape but the R2 bushing is much stiffer.
Lower drivers side bushing, it appears to be in good shape.
Upper drivers side bushing, if you look close you can see the bottom of the bushing is torn. This is what led me to want to change, but until this thread I wasn't sure I would.
And this is why I'm glad I replaced the bushings. From the pictures above, they appeared to be in ok shape, however this is what they looked like once removed. The top and bottom rubber hats were completely torn.
Here is the new R2 Racing Steering Rack Bushing kit from MVP:
And finally the installed bushings!
I need to retweak the lower outside bushing as it seems to be crooked on one side. Plus after looking at the picture I realized I forgot to put the washer back on.
I don't know if I'll notice a difference in the steering, but at least I will know the bushings aren't torn. I recommend this upgrade to all Supra owners!
94 Red Auto: BL6466, BL Fuel System, BL Built Auto, Titan TC, 10:1, ProEFI
Is this possible without pulling the motor?
MKiV 6 speed TT Single 67mm
It is possible without pulling the motor, however, unless your stock bushings are in really bad shape, you'll need to pull the rack at least. I had to pull my rack and use a press to press out the old bushings as mine were actually in pretty good shape. I did go ahead and do that though (pull the rack).
My R2 kit is older and the large bushing looks different. IT is just round. I may ask Robert about exchanging it as I am sure it won't work as well as the newer design.
IMHO, the main purpose of the stock rubber rack bushings is Toyota's constant quest for lowering NVH, but if you want the most precise steering feel, solid bushings are the way to go. We have sold at least 200 sets of the Battle Version aluminum bushings in the last few years and I honestly haven't had anyone say that it made the car too noisy or caused vibration, but if you are someone who wants the quiest car possible, then poly or new stock bushings would probably be better for you. I am finally building my own MK4 Supra right now and I will be using the solid ones for sure
Bigaaron from Driftmotion
93 MK4 Supra with a 1.2JZ (it's not a typo)
88 Supra with 1JZ-GTE.
Mine showed up yesterday and replacing them this weekend.
-Do more with less......
'95 MKIV T 6-spd Targa MoTeC, AP 3.4L, SP F1, Tilton, Precision, Recaro, Bilstein, ID, Boostlogic, PHR, ETS....
60 Supras have tighter steering thanks to this thread. LOL
Originally Posted by TheProPilotIn other words: I'll probably be back one day.Originally Posted by TheProPilot
03 BMW M5 - Tubi catback, drop in K&Ns, Brembo BBK F&R... freaking brilliant!!!
97 Supra TT/V160 (red)- sold
ProEFI - 808rwhp @ 29psi/E85
94 Supra Roller 10/10 body - sold
95 Supra NA Auto 3.26 rear end 28mpg - sold
98 Supra TT Auto - sold
97 Supra TT/V160 w/ 212,000 miles & was 9.5/10 condition - RIP
'96 NA-T, 542rwhp 5-speed
Just did mine with the motor in. I pryed them out with a flat head and installed the new ones. It was about two hours of work since the one around the rack has the bracket and it took a few tries to reinstall the bolts. Had to barely start one in and then do the other one. We'll see how good they are in a week when I can drive the car again since its under construction.
Sikky also makes a kit, aluminum solids.
I just did mine this morning. It took about 1hr with the engine in the car. The car feels amazing, the steering response is better. This is a easy an inexpensive mod. I did it while changing the oil.
Last edited by JeanB95tt; 07-20-2013 at 12:18 PM.
Did the solid bushings in mine a few years back and no complaints. Found them for half the price as what the linked ones in here were though.
with the rack bushings bad would it cause the steering to shudder/vibrate when stopped and turning the wheel?
Look them up on the web
Thanks for the info,guess i have to go place my order ...