Supra Forums banner

The cost of Replacing a rod bearing???

31K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Colorado TS04 
G
#1 ·
I think I might have f***** up a rod bearing after I blew a front seal, anyone ever had one replaced and how much did it cost. Reply's would be great.
Thanks
Steve H.
 
#2 ·
To replace a rod bearing the engine needs to be taken out, oil pan must be removed and bottom end must be inspected to find out which bearing(s) are causing the sound. Even if you find out that is only 1 bearing thats causing the sound, it would be wise to replace all the bearings anyways(main and rod). To PROPERLY do this, the crank must be removed and inspected to see if it needs to have the journals undersized or if it will be fine just polishing. The connecting rod big ends must also be inspected to see if they need to be resized or not. For the prices that you can get a short block these days, it would be wise to just replace the short block and go through the entire damaged engine in your spare time....


.
 
#3 ·
I'm afraid the damage is likely to be a lot more extensive that this. If you spun a rod bearing, then you also lost oil pressure. I assume you were driving the car at least moderately fast since you blew out the front seal. The shortblock has to be removed and completely broken down, check all rod & thrust bearings, rings, etc. Keeping in mind the close tolerance of japanese motors, it's a distinct possiblity the crank & block are not reuseable. If you do decide to go with a rebuild, make sure you find out about how long it'll take to get odd-ball engine internals of a rare motor......a friend went through this and he ended having to wait about 6 weeks for parts. I would have the turbo rebuilt for sure, even if there's no play in it, the lack of oil pressure would certainly damange the bearings in it. A rebuild isn't too bad on a single setup, but having to buy a brand new turbo later wouldn't be cheap.

-Mike


AZMongoose said:
To replace a rod bearing the engine needs to be taken out, oil pan must be removed and bottom end must be inspected to find out which bearing(s) are causing the sound. Even if you find out that is only 1 bearing thats causing the sound, it would be wise to replace all the bearings anyways(main and rod). To PROPERLY do this, the crank must be removed and inspected to see if it needs to have the journals undersized or if it will be fine just polishing. The connecting rod big ends must also be inspected to see if they need to be resized or not. For the prices that you can get a short block these days, it would be wise to just replace the short block and go through the entire damaged engine in your spare time....


.
 
#6 ·
HoustonSC300 said:
It turned out to be a blown #6 piston. Must have run lean in that cylinder. We think we have a bad injector. It's being rebuilt right now.
Scot
Scot, sorry to hear that :(. I'm gonna have to see if I have a bad rod bearing, getting a knocking noise when the car is around 2300 rpms and higher. This is why I wasnt at IDRC :(.

Mark H.
 
#9 ·
If you have a knock in the bottom end, most likely you've thrown the thrust bearings or it's a rod bearing worn out or both. In any case, by the time you hear a knock on these motors you can probably count on at least have the crank cut and repolished. Go with some nice rods and pistons while you're at it. The cheaper and quicker way is definitely the new shortblock route.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top