Poormans Valve Stem Seal DIY How-To

kilobit · 05-30-2006, 09:46 PM

Poormans Valve Stem Seal DIY How-To

Ok This How-to describes the removal/installation of the valve stem seals on a mkiv-tt
The only tool that you will need to buy are the valve stem removal pliers. You can use either the short or long kind, but this is a must!!

Stem Seals:
Exhaust: 90913-02088
Intake: 90913-02106

Other stuff:

Telescoping Magnetic autozone screwdriver tool
About 2 ft 3/4" pvc piping
notebook paper
about 2 rolls of 2" duct tape (kidding) you will need some tape, however.
Compression tester
Marvel Mystery Oil (solvent/cleaner) MMO
Marine grease (assembly lube)
About 30 cotton balls
some q-tips
5 lb or less rubber mallet
Dental pick or similar
10mm deep socket with extension
valve cover seals (2)
cam seals (2)

Also, i recommend an air compressor for this. I used about 22psi so a hobby compressor should work fine. If you decide to
do the rope trick, let me for-warn you, your rope can drag unwanted "crap" into your combustion chamber and you also
run the risk of it tying itself in a knot inside your chamber (eew!)

Making Your Tools:

1) Keeper Removal Tool: cut your pvc pipe about 9" in length and remove burrs. Place it around your magnetic screwdriver and tape it up. You may have to remove the bit holder if it has one.

2) Keeper Installer Tool: cut another piece of the pvc about the same size and tape one end good enough not to hurt your hand when you push hard against it and leave the other end burr free and open.

First off take your compression tester and **REMOVE** the one way check valve inside of it, blow through it to be sure its open.

Go ahead and remove everything you need to get the valve covers off..
After all that is done remove the intake valve cover and turn your #1 piston to TDC and remove timing belt and both cam gears.
Remove your cam per the service manual instructions and keep all cam bearing caps in order.

Now it is time to use your cotton balls!! put 2 in each crevice and make sure that nothing can fall into the head, or worse into the oil passage tunnels!!

**IMPORTANT**
Remove spark plug #1 and verify tdc with flashlight, then insert *modified compression tester hose.
Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft pully and zip tie the ratchet to where it will not let the piston move once you pressurize it. (This is for contingency, if i hadnt done this i think i would have lost my valve because the compression tester hose had that one-way check in it and i think this saved me!!)

*Make sure that you remember to move the airhose and set new piston at tdc when you get to them!
*************

Now, apply air pressure to the cylinder. Grab your trusty keeper removing tool and use the magnet to get that bucket out. Now you should see the valve retainer and the 2 keepers that hold it all together.

Take you remover tool and center it on the retainer, then give it a wack with your mallet (Hard enough to crush a 10 cent gumball). Your keepers should be stuck right on your magnet.

Now remove spring and grab your Stem Seal Puller.
(you can put some duct tape around the edges of the pliers so you wont scratch the head if you like.)

Clamp down onto the puller and twist it to make sure that its broken loose, then quickly pull back on it and hopefully you will have successfully removed it.
(For me it seemed easier to do this step quickly and make sure you dont hit yourself in the face like i did, lol.)

Now grab a q-tip and put some Marvel Mytery oil on it and clean your valve stem. Then use your Dental pick to lightly (not with tip) rub the base to make sure all rubber is gone.

Pick up your intake side of stem seals (90913-02106) and coat one with MMO and gently insert it onto the valve stem making sure you dont cut it with the sharp edges. (I kindof rolled mine onto it)

Next you will take the 10mm socket you have and push it onto the valve guide. Now this is important! you will feel 3 clicks. first click is your 10mm snapping over the spring, the second is the first rubber lobe snapping around the valve seat and the third is a fully seated seal. I Also rolled mine lightly with the socket just to make sure it was on but dont put too much pressure on it.

Replace your spring and retainer, then with your fingers put the keepers on the top and press them down until its around the vavle stem and its a tight fit.

Now, rip a piece of notebook paper and lay it on top of the keepers and retainer, then with you keeper installation tool centered over it firmly push down about a half an inch then release. You might want to double the paper over to make it thicker but i didnt need to.

Replace the bucket onto the valve and continue to the next one.

Do all the intake sides, remember to set each cylinder to tdc and zip tie the ratchet and apply air pressure.
After your done i used marine grase to coat the buckets and such for lube.

Exhaust side is a little different. First you will need a #3 phillips to remove the vaccuum actuator for the turbo so you can get to your seals easier.
Also note that every exhaust seal left rubber on the valve that has to be scrapped off!!! The exhaust seals do not click like the intake ones do so dont panic, just be sure that they are fully seated without pushing too hard on them.

If you have any questions please pm or email me and i will be happy to help you through it. I can also help you on the phone if needed.

I have included some more pictures and some short video clips of this.

Videos:
Removing the keepers
Installing the keepers
Installing keepers #2

Pictures:

All pictures and videos can be found here

http://www.42l.com/gallery/valvestemseals

kilobit · 05-30-2006, 09:48 PM

Sorry for the huge pics, hehe didnt think it would do this!

x X CLoud X x · 05-30-2006, 11:50 PM

awesome writeup...... how long did this install take?

kilobit · 05-31-2006, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x X CLoud X x

awesome writeup...... how long did this install take?

Well, i dont consider myself a mechanic by any means, but i have always worked on my cars growing up and i am also new to the supra, so it took me a while. About 4 hours removing all the crap to get the covers off, then when i got started it took me about 2 hours on the first valve! After i discovered the paper trick, i had done all of them in about 5 hours. Keep in mind i did everything in order and was meticulous about it all. If i was to do it again it would talke me prbobably about 4 hours on the valve stem seals not including dismantling the car.

myrpmredline · 05-31-2006, 07:49 PM

Life size pics?

Nice write up.

pwpanas · 06-01-2006, 07:41 PM

Nice write up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kilobit

...Also, i recommend an air compressor for this. I used about 22psi so a hobby compressor should work fine. If you decide to do the rope trick, let me for-warn you, your rope can drag unwanted "crap" into your combustion chamber and you also run the risk of it tying itself in a knot inside your chamber (eew!)...

Sure if your spark plug area is filthy, and you're not careful, EITHER the rope OR your air hose can drop some dirty oil in (chances are the crud is organic and will be burnt and/or blown out your exhaust port on the first firing) ... and that is IF it happens and IF you don't bother to use a long q-tip to get it out before you continue to the next cylinder ... but either way imho a touch of crud on the top of the piston is better than a bent valve (which is what can likely happen if you try to force a dropped valve back up with the piston).

Also note that if you decide to do the air trick without zip-tying the ratchet, OR air forces the piston down in the opposite direction that your ratchet is set to, and then you loose air pressure even for a second (as happened to you!!!), OR if your valve seat has a bit of carbon on it, as you said you can drop a valve into the cylinder and then you're into another 10+ hours of work to pull the head, plus new head gaskets, head bolts, etc. Oh and fwiw I'd recommend a breaker bar instead of a ratchet (with the zip-tie(s)) to keep the piston at TDC, since air can force the piston from TDC in either direction...

Fwiw I've literally done dozens of valve stem seal jobs, every one was using a rope (not air), and I've never had the rope automagically knot up inside the cylinder...

...although I did date a gal that could pop a cherry in her mouth, eat the cherry, and then tie the stem with her tongue!

I agree the choice is up to the person doing the job ... both ways (as well as many other parts of the job) have their risks and benefits. I agree that using air is more convenient, but imho the extra time it takes to secure your valves with a few feet of clean nylon rope instead of air is well worth it.

Again, it's clear that you've done a lot of work writing this up. I especially like your tips about the cotton balls, and the details of cleaning up any bits of rubber from the old valve stem seals. Thanks for sharing your experience and your learnings...

gmacrae · 06-01-2006, 08:00 PM

Great writeup, thanks very much

Can you please sort the pics out - i just see the red Xs

kilobit · 06-01-2006, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmacrae

Great writeup, thanks very much

Can you please sort the pics out - i just see the red Xs

If you do this with air pressure and piston at tdc the valve will not fall fully into the head, its just another precaution. I have to admit i was going to use the rope trick but i had small rope and it was getting hung in knots. Then i realized that im just being a pussy and did it with air pressure, lol. Like i said keep the piston your working on at tdc with a ratchet on your crankshaft pully so it doesnt move.

**Not a rachet but a breaker bar. I actually used a breaker bar***

**PICS, yea im actually in the process of fixing them to a more suitable size and it should be up in a few minutes.

gmacrae · 06-01-2006, 08:56 PM

... and if using air pressure with the piston at TDC, you could just keep the car in gear instead of the ratchet

kilobit · 06-01-2006, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmacrae

... and if using air pressure with the piston at TDC, you could just keep the car in gear instead of the ratchet

Very true, but you would have to put it into neutral every time you switched cylinders to get tdc on the one your working with and my hands were greasy.

Btw, pics are all done and perfect

MtFujiSupra · 06-01-2006, 10:31 PM

The pictures ROCK and so do you dude! Great Job! BTW, have you checked-out your work yet? No more smoke?

gmacrae · 06-01-2006, 11:05 PM

Awesome thanks for the pics

kilobit · 06-02-2006, 04:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MtFujiSupra

The pictures ROCK and so do you dude! Great Job! BTW, have you checked-out your work yet? No more smoke?

No actually i havent, i cannot get the crankshaft pulley off and wanted to replace timing belt, etc. I will let you know this weekend how it turned out (hopefully)

kilobit · 07-04-2006, 01:13 PM

Just curious if this has help anyone with their installation yet?

Stringer Bell · 07-04-2006, 02:02 PM

GREAT INFO!!!! Thank you man

gts_guy · 07-05-2006, 06:23 AM

I am in the process of doing mine most of the ways you have described. It has helped quite a bit. Thanks!!!

BTW the intake part number is 90913-02090, not sure if it was changed or not but that is the part I got from Elmhurst.

kilobit · 07-05-2006, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gts_guy

I am in the process of doing mine most of the ways you have described. It has helped quite a bit. Thanks!!!

BTW the intake part number is 90913-02090, not sure if it was changed or not but that is the part I got from Elmhurst.

Well, reguardless of part numbers make sure that your intake side has the ridges inside where the rubber is. If it doesnt have ridges its exhaust side!

bonz · 07-05-2006, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwpanas

Nice write up.

Ok, but if you decide to do the air trick without zip-tying the ratchet OR air forces the piston down in the opposite direction that your ratchet is set to ... and then you loose air pressure even for a second (as happened to you) ... OR if your valve seat has a bit of carbon on it ... as you said you can drop a valve into the cylinder and then you're into another 10+ hours of work to pull the head, plus new head gaskets, head bolts, etc. ...oh and fwiw I'd recommend a breaker bar instead of a ratchet (with the zip-tie(s)) to keep the piston at TDC, since air can force the piston from TDC in either direction...

Sure if your spark plug area is filthy and you're not careful EITHER the rope OR your air hose can drop some dirty oil in (chances are the crud is organic and will be burnt and/or blown out your exhaust port on the first firing) ... and that is IF it happens and IF you don't bother to use a long q-tip to get it out before you continue to the next cylinder ... but either way imho a touch of crud on the top of the piston is better than a bent valve (which is what can likely happen if you try to force the valve back up with the piston).

Oh, and fwiw I've done every valve stem seal job using a rope (not air), and I've never had the rope automagically knot up inside the cylinder...

...although I did know a gal once that could pop a cherry w/stem in her mouth eat the cherry and then tie the stem with her tongue!

I agree the choice is up to the person doing the job ... both ways (as well as many other parts of the job) have their risks and benefits. I agree that using air is more convenient, but imho the extra time it takes to secure your valves with a few feet of clean nylon rope instead of air is well worth it.

Again, it's clear that you've done a lot of work writing this up. I especially like your tips about the cotton balls, and the details of cleaning up any bits of rubber from the old valve stem seals. Thanks for sharing your experience and your learnings...

I can do the cherry stem thing. Maybe this gal and I need to meet?

kilobit · 07-05-2006, 07:41 PM

Ya and when you 2 get together give me a call and we can experiment!!!

gts_guy · 07-06-2006, 06:10 AM

Well my valve stems are done and all i can say is PITA... Your guide and 98MKIV's guide were just as much help as the FSM and my thanks goes out to both of you. I did check the valve clearance while I was in there too. I "almost" lost 1 keeper but since I had covered the entire engine with towels and sheets I located it.

Haven't reinstalled the valve covers because I am going to polish them this morning before I put them back on so that I will not have to remove them again for awhile (hopefully).

Thanks for the writeup and the pictures, made things a bit easier for me!

kilobit · 07-06-2006, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gts_guy

Well my valve stems are done and all i can say is PITA... Your guide and 98MKIV's guide were just as much help as the FSM and my thanks goes out to both of you. I did check the valve clearance while I was in there too. I "almost" lost 1 keeper but since I had covered the entire engine with towels and sheets I located it.

Haven't reinstalled the valve covers because I am going to polish them this morning before I put them back on so that I will not have to remove them again for awhile (hopefully).

Thanks for the writeup and the pictures, made things a bit easier for me!

If you dont mind take a few pics of your polished head for us to see!! Or anything else. Also, i was curious if you made these tools like i did and how you went about your installation. Im curious for my own knowledge and also on the behalf of others that might find it useful.

gts_guy · 07-06-2006, 07:55 PM

The tools I made were similar to yours. I was unable to find the same magnetic screwdriver so I got one with a smaller handle but it had a much larger magnet and taped around the handle. The magnet almost filled up the 3/4 inch pipe. Then I just slid the magnetic tool into the handle and I could remove it when I needed (like for the times the keepers didn’t sit right or popped out). It was almost a 2 for 1 kinda tool. I will try to take pictures after I get past my latest problems (more on that later). I did not put each cylinder at TDC, just #1 and put the car in gear. Only ran into an issue with this once when the circuit breaker popped on the outlet the compressor was on. I did not remove the engine hooks and cylinder 5 and 6 intakes gave me issues. I made another insert tool that was about 4 inches long. I also used this on the exhaust side of the same cylinders. BE SURE TO USE COTTON BALLS!!! This saved me once when a keeper came off and just landed on the cotton!

I did all 4 valves at a time instead of intake then exhaust but still only 1 valve at a time. I got cardboard out, drew a diagram and laid all parts on it and marked off the valves that had been completed. Intakes first, then exhaust.

My timing belt and drive belt still looked new and was replaced prob less than 9k ago (67k on car) so I didn't remove the belt, just loosened the bolts and pulled it off and laid it down and covered it with towels. Next I just followed the TSRM for the cams, cam gears and torque stuff.

I am by no means a mechanic, but with no shops in my area I really had no choice to do this. This is by far the most work I have done on a car, glad to have that hurdle done. It was made easier by posters like yourself that share the info. In all honesty if I were to do it again I would probably buy the tools that are made exactly for this. I did use the seal pliers but a tool that would get the keepers on every time the first time would be nice, this was the hardest part for me.

The smoke was driving me mad, it was getting very bad on start up. Can't wait to drive it then let it sit and start it just to see it not smoke!

Usually when I do this kind of mechanical work something breaks and this time is no exception. While torqueing down the timing belt the back bolt snapped and dropped to the floor. I pulled the damn thing down just to find whoever replaced it the last time did not use the correct bolt. Since I didn't undo this all the way in the beginning I didn't catch it. So after hours of cursing and being pissed I just walked away. I will look at it more tomorrow and see if I can grab it with a vice grip or try a 90* drill like another member suggested.

Thanks again!

kilobit · 07-06-2006, 09:05 PM

Glad to hear it worked out for you. For me the paper trick to install the keepers was a dream come true. They all went in very first try except for about 3 of them and they went on the second try. As far as you removing the cam gears but leaving the timing belt intack; your pretty lucky! The timing tensioner is a son-of-a-bitch once it moves outward and im really suprised it didnt tighten up on yours. Makes me think that its not working properly. But non the less im glad you got that stuff fixed and done! Good work!

Oh and one more question. Did you see the video of me installing the keepers? What did you think of the videos?

gmacrae · 07-06-2006, 09:50 PM

dude, you have no idea how much this writeup is gonna help me, expecially your custom tools and the paper idea - brilliant! I really appreciate it

gts_guy · 07-07-2006, 05:07 AM

Your vids helped out quite a bit. Being able to hear and see what they keepers should look like and sound like when they pop out was great. I have probably watched them a dozen times (mostly at work) and I did use the pictures as a reference during my install. I actually printed off the guide and ended up using it to reinstall the keepers (ripped it to pieces!).

07-05-2006, 06:23 AM	#16
gts_guy SupraForums Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: IN Age: 34 Posts: 117	I am in the process of doing mine most of the ways you have described. It has helped quite a bit. Thanks!!! BTW the intake part number is 90913-02090, not sure if it was changed or not but that is the part I got from Elmhurst. Last edited by gts_guy; 07-05-2006 at 06:51 AM.

07-06-2006, 09:05 PM	#23
kilobit SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte,NC Age: 33 Posts: 328	Glad to hear it worked out for you. For me the paper trick to install the keepers was a dream come true. They all went in very first try except for about 3 of them and they went on the second try. As far as you removing the cam gears but leaving the timing belt intack; your pretty lucky! The timing tensioner is a son-of-a-bitch once it moves outward and im really suprised it didnt tighten up on yours. Makes me think that its not working properly. But non the less im glad you got that stuff fixed and done! Good work! Oh and one more question. Did you see the video of me installing the keepers? What did you think of the videos? Last edited by kilobit; 07-06-2006 at 09:07 PM.

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05-30-2006, 09:46 PM	#1
kilobit SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte,NC Age: 33 Posts: 328	Poormans Valve Stem Seal DIY How-To Poormans Valve Stem Seal DIY How-To Ok This How-to describes the removal/installation of the valve stem seals on a mkiv-tt The only tool that you will need to buy are the valve stem removal pliers. You can use either the short or long kind, but this is a must!! Stem Seals: Exhaust: 90913-02088 Intake: 90913-02106 Other stuff: Telescoping Magnetic autozone screwdriver tool About 2 ft 3/4" pvc piping notebook paper about 2 rolls of 2" duct tape (kidding) you will need some tape, however. Compression tester Marvel Mystery Oil (solvent/cleaner) MMO Marine grease (assembly lube) About 30 cotton balls some q-tips 5 lb or less rubber mallet Dental pick or similar 10mm deep socket with extension valve cover seals (2) cam seals (2) Also, i recommend an air compressor for this. I used about 22psi so a hobby compressor should work fine. If you decide to do the rope trick, let me for-warn you, your rope can drag unwanted "crap" into your combustion chamber and you also run the risk of it tying itself in a knot inside your chamber (eew!) Making Your Tools: 1) Keeper Removal Tool: cut your pvc pipe about 9" in length and remove burrs. Place it around your magnetic screwdriver and tape it up. You may have to remove the bit holder if it has one. 2) Keeper Installer Tool: cut another piece of the pvc about the same size and tape one end good enough not to hurt your hand when you push hard against it and leave the other end burr free and open. First off take your compression tester and REMOVE the one way check valve inside of it, blow through it to be sure its open. Go ahead and remove everything you need to get the valve covers off.. After all that is done remove the intake valve cover and turn your #1 piston to TDC and remove timing belt and both cam gears. Remove your cam per the service manual instructions and keep all cam bearing caps in order. Now it is time to use your cotton balls!! put 2 in each crevice and make sure that nothing can fall into the head, or worse into the oil passage tunnels!! IMPORTANT Remove spark plug #1 and verify tdc with flashlight, then insert modified compression tester hose. Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft pully and zip tie the ratchet to where it will not let the piston move once you pressurize it. (This is for contingency, if i hadnt done this i think i would have lost my valve because the compression tester hose had that one-way check in it and i think this saved me!!) Make sure that you remember to move the airhose and set new piston at tdc when you get to them! ************* Now, apply air pressure to the cylinder. Grab your trusty keeper removing tool and use the magnet to get that bucket out. Now you should see the valve retainer and the 2 keepers that hold it all together. Take you remover tool and center it on the retainer, then give it a wack with your mallet (Hard enough to crush a 10 cent gumball). Your keepers should be stuck right on your magnet. Now remove spring and grab your Stem Seal Puller. (you can put some duct tape around the edges of the pliers so you wont scratch the head if you like.) Clamp down onto the puller and twist it to make sure that its broken loose, then quickly pull back on it and hopefully you will have successfully removed it. (For me it seemed easier to do this step quickly and make sure you dont hit yourself in the face like i did, lol.) Now grab a q-tip and put some Marvel Mytery oil on it and clean your valve stem. Then use your Dental pick to lightly (not with tip) rub the base to make sure all rubber is gone. Pick up your intake side of stem seals (90913-02106) and coat one with MMO and gently insert it onto the valve stem making sure you dont cut it with the sharp edges. (I kindof rolled mine onto it) Next you will take the 10mm socket you have and push it onto the valve guide. Now this is important! you will feel 3 clicks. first click is your 10mm snapping over the spring, the second is the first rubber lobe snapping around the valve seat and the third is a fully seated seal. I Also rolled mine lightly with the socket just to make sure it was on but dont put too much pressure on it. Replace your spring and retainer, then with your fingers put the keepers on the top and press them down until its around the vavle stem and its a tight fit. Now, rip a piece of notebook paper and lay it on top of the keepers and retainer, then with you keeper installation tool centered over it firmly push down about a half an inch then release. You might want to double the paper over to make it thicker but i didnt need to. Replace the bucket onto the valve and continue to the next one. Do all the intake sides, remember to set each cylinder to tdc and zip tie the ratchet and apply air pressure. After your done i used marine grase to coat the buckets and such for lube. Exhaust side is a little different. First you will need a #3 phillips to remove the vaccuum actuator for the turbo so you can get to your seals easier. Also note that every exhaust seal left rubber on the valve that has to be scrapped off!!! The exhaust seals do not click like the intake ones do so dont panic, just be sure that they are fully seated without pushing too hard on them. If you have any questions please pm or email me and i will be happy to help you through it. I can also help you on the phone if needed. I have included some more pictures and some short video clips of this. Videos: Removing the keepers Installing the keepers Installing keepers #2 Pictures: All pictures and videos can be found here http://www.42l.com/gallery/valvestemseals Last edited by kilobit; 06-01-2006 at 09:30 PM.

05-30-2006, 09:48 PM	#2
kilobit SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte,NC Age: 33 Posts: 328	Sorry for the huge pics, hehe didnt think it would do this!

05-30-2006, 11:50 PM	#3
x X CLoud X x FUCK JDM Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Earth Age: 85 Posts: 3,639	awesome writeup...... how long did this install take?

05-31-2006, 07:49 PM	#5
myrpmredline SupraForums Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: nonya Posts: 715	Life size pics? Nice write up.

06-01-2006, 08:00 PM	#7
gmacrae ur moms favourite Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Zealand Age: 27 Posts: 1,403	Great writeup, thanks very much Can you please sort the pics out - i just see the red Xs

06-01-2006, 08:56 PM	#9
gmacrae ur moms favourite Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Zealand Age: 27 Posts: 1,403	... and if using air pressure with the piston at TDC, you could just keep the car in gear instead of the ratchet

06-01-2006, 10:31 PM	#11
MtFujiSupra SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: ^^ Posts: 1,591	The pictures ROCK and so do you dude! Great Job! BTW, have you checked-out your work yet? No more smoke?

06-01-2006, 11:05 PM	#12
gmacrae ur moms favourite Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Zealand Age: 27 Posts: 1,403	Awesome thanks for the pics

07-04-2006, 01:13 PM	#14
kilobit SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte,NC Age: 33 Posts: 328	Just curious if this has help anyone with their installation yet?

07-04-2006, 02:02 PM	#15
Stringer Bell Banned Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Florida Age: 32 Posts: 380	GREAT INFO!!!! Thank you man

07-05-2006, 07:41 PM	#19
kilobit SupraForums Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Charlotte,NC Age: 33 Posts: 328	Ya and when you 2 get together give me a call and we can experiment!!!

07-06-2006, 06:10 AM	#20
gts_guy SupraForums Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: IN Age: 34 Posts: 117	Well my valve stems are done and all i can say is PITA... Your guide and 98MKIV's guide were just as much help as the FSM and my thanks goes out to both of you. I did check the valve clearance while I was in there too. I "almost" lost 1 keeper but since I had covered the entire engine with towels and sheets I located it. Haven't reinstalled the valve covers because I am going to polish them this morning before I put them back on so that I will not have to remove them again for awhile (hopefully). Thanks for the writeup and the pictures, made things a bit easier for me!

07-06-2006, 07:55 PM	#22
gts_guy SupraForums Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: IN Age: 34 Posts: 117	The tools I made were similar to yours. I was unable to find the same magnetic screwdriver so I got one with a smaller handle but it had a much larger magnet and taped around the handle. The magnet almost filled up the 3/4 inch pipe. Then I just slid the magnetic tool into the handle and I could remove it when I needed (like for the times the keepers didn’t sit right or popped out). It was almost a 2 for 1 kinda tool. I will try to take pictures after I get past my latest problems (more on that later). I did not put each cylinder at TDC, just #1 and put the car in gear. Only ran into an issue with this once when the circuit breaker popped on the outlet the compressor was on. I did not remove the engine hooks and cylinder 5 and 6 intakes gave me issues. I made another insert tool that was about 4 inches long. I also used this on the exhaust side of the same cylinders. BE SURE TO USE COTTON BALLS!!! This saved me once when a keeper came off and just landed on the cotton! I did all 4 valves at a time instead of intake then exhaust but still only 1 valve at a time. I got cardboard out, drew a diagram and laid all parts on it and marked off the valves that had been completed. Intakes first, then exhaust. My timing belt and drive belt still looked new and was replaced prob less than 9k ago (67k on car) so I didn't remove the belt, just loosened the bolts and pulled it off and laid it down and covered it with towels. Next I just followed the TSRM for the cams, cam gears and torque stuff. I am by no means a mechanic, but with no shops in my area I really had no choice to do this. This is by far the most work I have done on a car, glad to have that hurdle done. It was made easier by posters like yourself that share the info. In all honesty if I were to do it again I would probably buy the tools that are made exactly for this. I did use the seal pliers but a tool that would get the keepers on every time the first time would be nice, this was the hardest part for me. The smoke was driving me mad, it was getting very bad on start up. Can't wait to drive it then let it sit and start it just to see it not smoke! Usually when I do this kind of mechanical work something breaks and this time is no exception. While torqueing down the timing belt the back bolt snapped and dropped to the floor. I pulled the damn thing down just to find whoever replaced it the last time did not use the correct bolt. Since I didn't undo this all the way in the beginning I didn't catch it. So after hours of cursing and being pissed I just walked away. I will look at it more tomorrow and see if I can grab it with a vice grip or try a 90* drill like another member suggested. Thanks again!

07-06-2006, 09:50 PM	#24
gmacrae ur moms favourite Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Zealand Age: 27 Posts: 1,403	dude, you have no idea how much this writeup is gonna help me, expecially your custom tools and the paper idea - brilliant! I really appreciate it

07-07-2006, 05:07 AM	#25
gts_guy SupraForums Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: IN Age: 34 Posts: 117	Your vids helped out quite a bit. Being able to hear and see what they keepers should look like and sound like when they pop out was great. I have probably watched them a dozen times (mostly at work) and I did use the pictures as a reference during my install. I actually printed off the guide and ended up using it to reinstall the keepers (ripped it to pieces!).