1987 supra white turbo

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Thread: 1987 supra white turbo

  1. #1

    1987 supra white turbo

    Hi. Gonna do a project on my 1987 Supra that I picked up 2 weeks ago for 2000$ cad. Has been sitting for 2yrs never seen a winter. Blown engine. Interior needs work, aswell as some body work. Last week I pulled the engine and tranny out to rebuild it. Just brought it home today and will start pulling it apart this week. The goal for the car is to get it running for next summer with some small tasteful mods. I would like to have around 300whp and for it to be a reliable daily summer driver.

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  3. #2
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    ZaZZn's Avatar
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    Welcome... Should be able to do that on stock turbo, and a few bolt ons!
    Eric W
    87 TT E85
    91 T 60k miles
    98 SC 300

  4. #3
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Welcome MK3Turbo, can't wait to see some pictures of your Supra.
    87 Turbo Supra - Daily Summer Cruiser
    87 Non-Turbo Supra - Sold
    04 GS300 - Daily Driver

    2019 Updated Build Thread - https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...ore&highlight=

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  6. #4
    When I first got it.

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  7. #5
    Dropped the engine out and put the sub frame back in so we could roll it out. The engine came home with me and now I am to rebuild it and do some upgrades while its out. Anyone have any suggestions? Low cost, low hp upgrades. Simple.

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  8. #6
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    From the picture's, your Supra looks very nice. For you power range I would suggest a 57 trim upgraded factory turbo, 550cc fuel injectors, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, J-tube fuel line bypass, shim the oil pump, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Lexus LS400 AFM housing, intake filter and a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back (get rid of that restrictive factory exhaust elbow off the turbo). OEM internals on your motor will handle that power range just fine but are you tearing it down to the block?

  9. #7
    Yes I am tearing it down to the block. The head and the block are going to be sent to the machine shop, depending on how much is taken off, I will be getting a 2mm metal head gasket or a 1.4mm. To hold down that mhg will be ARP head studs. Now for what brand of mhg I am not sure.

    I have found 550cc fuel injectors and have found the 92-94 ls400 afm. I will be going with a 3" downpipe with the elbow. The turbo will be left alone for now because my budget will not alow lol. My goal is to focus on the upgrades on the engine that will be hard to do once the engine is back in the car. Exhaust system will have to wait

    The supras body does have a few rust spots on it being up here in Canada. I will be bringing it to a body shop to have it repaired and painted to look factoru again.

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  10. #8
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    Go with simple upgrades then. Getting a good intercooler and exhaust is the key. Once you have a boost controller you can hit 300hp easy. Shouldn't be too costly

  11. #9
    I have found the lexus air flow meter needed as well as 550cc injectors. Found arp studs. Looking for a manual boost control as they are cheaper and its a mod I can do myself. Also need a boost guage. Found a better fuel pump (to keep up with the 550cc injectors). Still tearing it down to see what else im going to need.

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  12. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    From the picture's, your Supra looks very nice. For you power range I would suggest a 57 trim upgraded factory turbo, 550cc fuel injectors, aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, J-tube fuel line bypass, shim the oil pump, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Lexus LS400 AFM housing, intake filter and a full 3" exhaust from the turbo back (get rid of that restrictive factory exhaust elbow off the turbo). OEM internals on your motor will handle that power range just fine but are you tearing it down to the block?
    The supra looks good from a far but far from good. After market fuel pressure regulator? What does it do? J-tube fuel line bypass? And shimming the fuel pump I have found but can't figure out how or the benefits.


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  13. #11
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteMk3Turbo View Post
    The supra looks good from a far but far from good. After market fuel pressure regulator? What does it do? J-tube fuel line bypass? And shimming the fuel pump I have found but can't figure out how or the benefits.


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    With aftermarket fuel injectors, fuel pump and fuel lines, you want better control of the fuel flow so you can make adjustments if needed depending on what fuel set up you have so your motor does not run too rich or lean. The J-tube is under the intake manifold and is basically a factory restriction in the fuel line so it will need to be bypassed for better fuel flow when upgrading the fuel system. For the oil pump, it is good to shim it with about 5mm worth of washers to help get a bit more oil pressure for some extra insurance.

  14. #12
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    You can leave it stock fuel system if your budgeting your spending, i have an 88 turbo auto, 3 years ago i redid the top end, did arp head studs oem head gasket, intake manifold plastic heat stopper gasket, egr blockoffs. I have stock fuel pump and stock injectors and turbo. I do have a full 3 inch turbo back exhaust, air intake, and fmic kit and i feel like the car runs way faster than stock and has been super reliable for me.
    1988 Supra Turbo Targa Auto. Full driftmotion turbo back exhaust, hps intake with apexi filter, kyb excell shocks on b&g springs..

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    Streetbike: 08 Suzuki GSXR 1000 with a few boltons ;)

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  15. #13
    Been busy lately tearing down the engine. Finally got it down to the block last night with almost everything striped. The transmission was a pita. Once I got the head off, I noticed a huge problem. 2 pistons are damaged and chipped (see pictures). 4 of the cylinder walls are scorched.

    Not sure what to do at this point. Spend 1000$ and buy a piston set and pay the machine shop to fix the walls. Spend a couple hundred on another used 7mgte, tear it down again, and continue on with my plan (if the block is good), still having to replace all gaskets, hoses, head studs and other bolts I may need. Or look for a 1 or 2jz to swap in. Keep in mind I am trying to keep this on a budget, just replacing/upgrading the engine, stuff that cant be done when in the car.

    Thanks for the suggestions regarding the upgrades/mods that can be done guys! I will get back to that later.

    I am trying to get the engine or a engine back into the car before winter so I can store the car in my garage.

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  16. #14
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Those are some of the worst looking cylinder walls I have seen. I wonder if the previous owner ran out of oil at some time. I would machine the top of the block and hone out the cylinders for some oversized pistons. My cost was $420 at my local machine shop and that included:

    -machine cylinder head
    -machine cylinder block
    -new freeze plugs
    -clean oil passages on block and crank
    -hone cylinders
    -new oil pump driveshaft bearings installed
    -paint block black
    -sandblast a few brackets and lower timing covers


    For a cheaper option you also can probably find a 2jz-ge from a GS300 and turbo that as well but I think since you got it this far, might as well freshen up everything and start from there.

  17. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    Those are some of the worst looking cylinder walls I have seen. I wonder if the previous owner ran out of oil at some time. I would machine the top of the block and hone out the cylinders for some oversized pistons. My cost was $420 at my local machine shop and that included:

    -machine cylinder head
    -machine cylinder block
    -new freeze plugs
    -clean oil passages on block and crank
    -hone cylinders
    -new oil pump driveshaft bearings installed
    -paint block black
    -sandblast a few brackets and lower timing covers


    For a cheaper option you also can probably find a 2jz-ge from a GS300 and turbo that as well but I think since you got it this far, might as well freshen up everything and start from there.
    The previous owner hit something while driving and it punctured the intercooler, he drove it home.

    420$ doesnt sound bad. But how much were the pistons? Right now I am leaning towards a 1jz gte. I am looking at the prices of replacing all gaskets and seal's, metal head gasket, arp head studs, arp main bolts, new oil pan, new hoses, and whatever else I run into while rebuilding this 30 year old engine. It just doesnt seem worth it to rebuild an engine that doesnt have much support online, and spend as much as I would on a swap.

    I also looked for a used block. Could not find one being sold by itself. I have found a couple 7mgte's for parts, fairly cheap. That means tearing it down once again and hoping the block is good.

    I dont mind cutting my loses with the engine and parting it out.

    I have done alot of research into just swaping in a 1jz. I know what 1jz I would go for. Post 1996 1jz-gte vvt-i single turbo, rear sump. Engine mounts are 200$. Bell housing to a r154 is 300$. I found a couple different engines, all around 2000$. Need to find a good, inexpensive intercooler. Im sure there are alot of things Im forgetting but thats all I can think of at the moment.

    Not sure where to find a 1jz to mark 3 supra wiring harness. Anyone know who can do this and how much it will cost?

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  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteMk3Turbo View Post
    It just doesnt seem worth it to rebuild an engine that doesnt have much support online, and spend as much as I would on a swap.
    On the other hand what you're left with after the rebuild is going to be stronger and have more potential that a stock 1J (provided you go with a decent set of rods).

  19. #17
    90T 3p141592654's Avatar
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    Those IJs are also 20+ years old. They will need all the same work as you are doing now, plus the added conversion expenses.

  20. #18
    Im back. Many of you may have thought I gave up. I have been really busy with my new job and keeping up with school. So In short, I decided on keeping the 7m. Not enough time or money to complete a jz. So the search has continued for a good block. In the meantime, I have collected some parts. Full 7mgte rebuild kit (all seals and gaskets). Also got arp headstuds, hks 1.2mm mhg, gates timing belt, lexus afm, and a few other parts I will mention in the next post.

    I know that my old clutch is worn out and the bearing is bad so, for this post, I will be addressing the clutch department. So I got an upgraded pressure plate and disc. I believe I have found what it is online... Fx racing.

    https://gripforce.com/fx-stage-2-clu...c-7mgte-japan/

    I picked this up used from a guy in Toronto who had forgot what it was. I got that and the stock pressure plate and disc for 80$. Also came with a new clutch bearing?

    The first 3 photos are of the upgraded clutch. Next 4 are the stock clutch I got. Next 1 is the stock clutch bearing? And last one is the flywheel on the engine.

    Is there a better way to go with flywheels? Should I replace it? Anything else I should replace in the clutch area? Suggestions?

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  21. #19
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    Replace all of the c clips, wave washer, and bits in the hub. Get a new OEM pilot and throw out bearing. Take the flywheel to a machine shop and grind the face to factory specifications. Suggest getting either arp hardware for the flywheel and pressure plate. Loctite the flywheel bolts.


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  22. #20
    Took a break from the whole forum thing here, as it took up a lot of time I didn't necessarily have. But here I am, a year and a half latter. Much has been done, but there is much to do. I am trying to wrap this up asap.

    I have bought a second mk3, sold it, bought thousands of dollars in a wide variety of upgrades, replacements and rebuild parts and another 2 7mgte's. I am well over 7k into this project... not sure of the exact number. I started an Instagram for the soup and other car buffoonery I have participated in for the past while. Check it out, @mk3_supraa. Turns out there is a huge mk3 supra community on Instagram as well.

    In this long period of absence I also managed to buy a daily/winter beater car. A 2004 mk4 Volkswagen golf 2.0 slow 5speed. Loads of fun, lightly modded, cheap and reliable. Love it to death but now I need to focus on the supra if I am to have it running for summer. Let me attempt to recap some of what I have done.

    Currently as I sit, I am awaiting my block which is currently sitting at a machine shop. Getting the Machinist to build the bottom end and adjust the head for me as I have no clue how to do any of that shit. Would love to learn someday but this sadly is not the time. I bought forged Je pistons. Bought of a fellow who's build fell through, I don't know the exact specs yet but believe they are 0.50 oversize. Wondering if Forged rods are mandatory in my build. Looking for a reliable 350whp. I have all the supporting mods and upgrades to achieve this and more, that area will be covered another day. So would hope to stay with stock rods if possible. Also wondering if I should stick with the 5m Crank or the later 7m crank, have heard others recommend 7m crank. The block I am using is pretty immaculate, the reason I didn't use it was because of one cylinder with low compression. I have some pictures to upload eventually.

    I also need some final input on oil pressure solutions on my engine. I will be replacing the oil pump with an oem replacement, then swapping out the spring for a pressure booster spring. Also want to replace the Oil pump supply tube to a less restrictive setup but don't want to spend 160CAD at Arizona Performance. Any alternative options? Also looking to find the proper setup for the oil pressure sender to an aftermarket Auto meter gauge, yes I have 3 now. Any other suggestions for ways to make sure my engine is safe in the Oil department?

  23. #21
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you still have the Supra. Forged rods are not mandatory for your hp range but I have seen most others on stock rods in the 450 to 500 hp range, some push slightly past 500 but I personally would not use factory rods around that 500+ power level.

    The later style 7m crank is fully counterbalanced but the rpm redline dropped slightly in those models. The earlier style is missing the 2 and 5 cylinder counterweights but has a slightly higher rpm redline. I have dealt with both cranks and would either one in a build but I am currently using the fully counterbalanced style.

    That ARZ oil pick up tube is a great alternative but the factory oil pick up tube does a great job too. I would just personally avoid those braided ss line replacements as I remember one person had his motor destroyed from that piece when it failed. I never heard of the factory metal one failing or giving anyone problems.

  24. #22
    Ok thanks. So the stock rods will be left alone, I have 3 sets to pick and chose from anyways lol. I will end up staying with the 6M crank because the only 7M crank I have looks to be in poor condition.

    Onto addressing oil pressure/temp control. I will leave that pickup tube alone because as you have said and after much more reading it seems to be not as highly recommended to replace. I am however looking to repair other weak points so here is what I have so far. New Aisan Oil Pump with an upgraded pressure relief spring and an upgraded oil cooler with 8an fittings I believe. I have been looking into changing the pressure based cooling system to a temp based system as that seems to be the path everyone chooses.
    Here is what I have down so far. https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...-111/overview/ https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1791/overview/ https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5719/overview/ https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...404-20173.html . So that last part I am not sure about, goes from block to adapter plate?
    The system would go something like the Permacool adapter plate from block to the two threads then to the Permacool remote oil filter bracket, then to the Derale thermostat, then to the oil cooler and back. Is this a proper setup?
    If so, onto my next question. -8AN or -10AN hose and fitting? I believe 1/2 NPT is the female thread all of those products use but I think the appropriate hose would be -8AN https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fcv0810. Is this correct or should I go with the -10 hose? Also wondering if there is a cheaper alternative fitting from 1/2NPT male to push on lock hose -8/-10 because that connector is 10 alone on summit and I would need 10 of those to complete this system, and 2 hose to 8an fittings for the oil cooler.
    What must be kept in mind is this is a budget build, aiming to get the oil system correct the first time but dont need the fancy SS and AN shit. Looking to have the car running for my grad midway through June.

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