The Infamous RPS Carbon/Carbon Triple Issue

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Thread: The Infamous RPS Carbon/Carbon Triple Issue

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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    The Infamous RPS Carbon/Carbon Triple Issue

    Having issues with my RPS carbon/carbon triple disengaging from gears. As well as engaging first or reverse. With the clutch pedal fully depressed it makes a "THUD" and bumps the car forward going into first or backwards for reverse with out going into the gear at all. The strangest part is it is not a consistent issue. It is worse at sometimes more than others where it may not be noticeable. I've read numerous threads with many different results, some with no solutions at all. I've reached out to RPS many times over the past month with no luck. This clutch was freshly rebuilt by Rob. Despite being informed that I didn't need to break this clutch in I still put about 400 miles on it for peace of mind. During that 400 miles and even after it drove absolutely perfect, like butter.

    I have tried the following please advise if there is anything else i can try to remedy this.

    -Bleeding the Clutch Hydraulics
    -Greasing splines to make sure discs are "floating"
    -Tilton 3/4 Bore Master cylinder upgrade
    -New OEM Slave Cylinder

    A buddy of mine recommended converting over to the tilton release bearing assembly but i just feel thats another wild guess that will not have an effect.

    I love the pedal feel of this clutch and its capabilities, I actually want to switch back to my OEM master to get that stock feel back. But id like to get this resolved ! Any and all help is appreciated !!!
    Last edited by SupraMan36; 01-01-2019 at 10:42 PM.

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    Game Over Boost Wang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupraMan36 View Post
    Having issues with my RPS carbon/carbon triple disengaging from gears. As well as engaging first or reverse. With the clutch pedal fully depressed it makes a "THUD" and bumps the car forward going into first or backwards for reverse with out going into the gear at all. The strangest part is it is not a consistent issue. It is worse at sometimes more than others where it may not be noticeable. I've read numerous threads with many different results, some with no solutions at all. I've reached out to RPS many times over the past month with no luck. This clutch was freshly rebuilt by Rob. Despite being informed that I didn't need to break this clutch in I still put about 400 miles on it for peace of mind.

    I have tried the following please advise if there is anything else i can try to remedy this.

    -Bleeding the Clutch Hydraulics
    -Greasing splines to make sure discs are "floating"
    -Tilton 3/4 Bore Master cylinder upgrade
    -New OEM Slave Cylinder

    A buddy of mine recommended converting over to the tilton release bearing assembly but i just feel thats another wild guess that will not have an effect.

    I love the pedal feel of this clutch and its capabilities, I actually want to switch back to my OEM master to get that stock feel back. But id like to get this resolved ! Any and all help is appreciated !!!
    The Thud is caused from the freeplay of the Diff's factory ear bushings when the transmission is preloaded when putting it into gear. Flipping the bolt's washer helps reduce some, or replace the factory bushing with something else. Make sure the pedal has proper freeplay to make sure you don't have any clutch drag as well.
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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boost Wang View Post
    The Thud is caused from the freeplay of the Diff's factory ear bushings when the transmission is preloaded when putting it into gear. Flipping the bolt's washer helps reduce some, or replace the factory bushing with something else. Make sure the pedal has proper freeplay to make sure you don't have any clutch drag as well.
    I know that "Thud" that your talking about. Thats long gone. I have fully poly bushings for my Diff now. This thud is ever so slight. As for freeplay after installing the tilton master ive gone to both extremes and no luck. Its adjusted a little more towards the bottom ATM.

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    Luvs ( . ) ( . )s StickyRice's Avatar
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    I tried the method of adjusting the mast on the jacks transmissions video, ever since my RPS triple has been butter. As long as I remember, if you adjust it to have the engagement toward the bottom of the travel it will behave like that.

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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StickyRice View Post
    I tried the method of adjusting the mast on the jacks transmissions video, ever since my RPS triple has been butter. As long as I remember, if you adjust it to have the engagement toward the bottom of the travel it will behave like that.
    Can you send a link to the Jacks video ?

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    Boost Junkie 1A1's Avatar
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    That's called clutch drag and your clutch is not fully disengaging. You need to adjust per Jack's video.

    Steve


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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StickyRice View Post

    Awesome 👍 Going to try this right now.

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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    WELL, I adjusted that rod all the way out until there is no further pedal free-play and the clutch is begins to disengage at the very top of the throw. BUT putting the trans into first and reverse the shifter still bumps a notch and actually rolls forward before i have to put a little force to get it in gear. Ive noticed that if i tap the shifter towards the direction of a higher gear (3rd or 4th) it will go in first or reverse smoothly. Its noticeable because it wasnt like this upon initial install and even a couple months thereafter.

    However it does not Move forward with the pedal down and me revving to 8k.
    Last edited by SupraMan36; 01-01-2019 at 10:52 PM.

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    Boost Junkie 1A1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupraMan36 View Post
    WELL, I adjusted that rod all the way out until there is no further pedal free-play and the clutch is begins to disengage at the very top of the throw. BUT putting the trans into first and reverse the shifter still bumps a notch and actually rolls forward before i have to put a little force to get it in gear. Ive noticed that if i tap the shifter towards the direction of a higher gear (3rd or 4th) it will go in first or reverse smoothly. Its noticeable because it wasnt like this upon initial install and even a couple months thereafter.

    However it does not Move forward with the pedal down and me revving to 8k.
    Check your reverse block off plate near the shifter to make sure it is installed correctly and not causing any blockage for gear selection for other gears.

    Steve

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    Well ***k. I just bought one of these. How does a $3000 clutch have an "infamous" issue?

    Is this a common issue? Right now, whatever clutch is in my car is freaking brilliant. I don't know what it is: but I suspect it's a South Bend. I just drove an RPS CC Triple and I absolutely loved it. The only downside was a bit of noise in loaded up gears such a 6th at 45mph.

    I guess I'd really like to know just how prevalent this is because I've got my car up on jack stands about to put it in, and just sold the R3C to get this RPS lol! I honestly wish RPS had designed this clutch to be a push style like the OS. Because then you can use a Tilton TOB which is money.

    Is it possible you have a bubble in your slave hose? I have a stainless line from the master to the slave.

    Was the OEM Master new? If not I'd consider going back to a new OEM Master.
    Last edited by TheProPilot; 01-03-2019 at 11:00 AM.
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    Luvs ( . ) ( . )s StickyRice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProPilot View Post
    Well ***k. I just bought one of these. How does a $3000 clutch have an "infamous" issue?

    Is this a common issue? Right now, whatever clutch is in my car is freaking brilliant. I don't know what it is: but I suspect it's a South Bend. I just drove an RPS CC Triple and I absolutely loved it. The only downside was a bit of noise in loaded up gears such a 6th at 45mph.

    I guess I'd really like to know just how prevalent this is because I've got my car up on jack stands about to put it in, and just sold the R3C to get this RPS lol! I honestly wish RPS had designed this clutch to be a push style like the OS. Because then you can use a Tilton TOB which is money.

    Is it possible you have a bubble in your slave hose? I have a stainless line from the master to the slave.

    Was the OEM Master new? If not I'd consider going back to a new OEM Master.
    That's just one issue, second issue was the snap ring holding the hub coming off, but that is easily remedied with a tack weld on the snap rings. Other than that I didn't have any other issues after adjusting correctly. It shifts pretty smooth even at 9k rpms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StickyRice View Post
    That's just one issue, second issue was the snap ring holding the hub coming off, but that is easily remedied with a tack weld on the snap rings. Other than that I didn't have any other issues after adjusting correctly. It shifts pretty smooth even at 9k rpms.

    I think the snap ring problem was solved with the recent redesign.
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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    That's what was advertised, anyways.

    SupraMan36: Did you lap the spline to the disks?
    Last edited by TheProPilot; 01-03-2019 at 11:13 PM.

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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProPilot View Post
    That's what was advertised, anyways.

    SupraMan36: Did you lap the spline to the disks?
    Yes i did as per the instructions that came with the clutch. Also the master was a New oem unit, as well as the slave. I now have the Tilton 3/4" bore master in there also new, plus i adjusted the pedal as per Jacks video for the most pedal travel. The clutch now engages almost to the top of the pedal stroke, but It drives better. Its still has some tight shifts but definitely improved.

    I honestly prefer the feeling of the OEM master over the Tilton. The oem was much lighter and smooth.

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    I just took my trans and diff out. Before disconnecting the slave I checked to see if I could press it in. I could not so I'm wondering if that is why my clutch was slipping in the first place. It lasted 1000 miles of 20psi on big twins and ethanol. Turns out it's either a modified stock clutch or a stock clutch. Kind of crazy.

    Man I'm interested to hear what you find out with this because I'm literally about to put this clutch in my car. I hope you get it sorted out. My buddy with an Exedy had a similar issue and elected to simply beat the ever living crap out of it by doing a couple of launches and hard shifts and that fixed it lol wore the pass down that micrometer it needed.

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    So when adjusting the pedal correctly I notice folks mention the pedal being at the top...

    Please elaborate further. When releasing the pedal, you're saying if adjusted correctly the pedal initial engagement point will be much higher than near the floor? Is that to give it additional throw away from the intermediate disks?

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    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProPilot View Post
    So when adjusting the pedal correctly I notice folks mention the pedal being at the top...

    Please elaborate further. When releasing the pedal, you're saying if adjusted correctly the pedal initial engagement point will be much higher than near the floor? Is that to give it additional throw away from the intermediate disks?
    Yes, and that's precisely why you want the engagement point further up on this clutch.
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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    That makes sense. Why wouldn't this be working for the OP?

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    SupraForums Member SupraMan36's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProPilot View Post
    That makes sense. Why wouldn't this be working for the OP?
    It drives much better where its placed now. Drove it the last 2 days w/o any of the initial issues. The clutch now engages just before the top of releasing the pedal. I will update next weekend to be assure you that its good to go.

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    Thanks buddy! It's too bad an adjustment can't be made to have the clutch begin to engage at the bottom, where it belongs. Is anyone familiar with a slave or clutch setup that might allow this? Having the clutch engage at the top gives so much less reference point to go by before it bites. Having the engagement at the bottom or near it helps have a reference of "ok just let off and in a few more moments I should feel grab... There it is"

    How much harder is it to drive with rhe engagement so high? It seems so counterintuitive to have it so high.

    I really appreciate you chiming in and following up with us.

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    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    I'm curious - HKS offered a lengthened slave cylinder rod to make the OG HKS Triple Disc a lot easier to drive.

    I wonder if a similar slave cyl mod would allow the full function of the clutch, while also putting the engagement point in a more pleasant spot.

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    I was thinking of making one, personally. Once I get under there to adjust it I'll know which way and how much. It seems this would be an ideal mod for almost any car that using a self adjusting master cylinder.

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    SupraMan36 are you back to the OEM Master?

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    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    Well add me to the list of people who can't get it to disengage completely. I don't know what I'm doing wrong here or what I've done incorrectly.

    My issue is a bit more insidious. It begins by idling completely silent. Then as everything gets hot the clutch chatters like crazy, even with the same idle RPM. And the pedal cannot seem to disengage the clutch and then cannot get it into gear without a lot of effort. I hope a resolution can be found to this. I've contact RPS and RSP (lol) and hopefully between the two of them it'll get sorted out. I'm praying the chatter and disengagement issue will get resolved because when it's silent is absolutely silent and drives similar to OEM force and slip. Unfortunately when it doesn't: it doesn't. It's loud and won't disengage. The two seem to be together.

    I do have a braided line on the master to the slave and I'm wonder if it might be catching an air pocket at the top or at the slave.

    Does anyone know what size power bleeder attachment I can use to try forcing the bubbles out? I am thinking the chattering is coming from a lack of slave cylinder rod pressure on the fork, and that is also causing it to not get quite enough throw.

    I adjusted the pedal height and pedal play per the Toyota TSRM and that seemed to help a bunch, as did bleeding the slave cylinder again.

    I even wonder if doing a 1mm longer slave rod would fix this. Shoot, I'd be willing to give it a try!!! This clutch is incredible when it's acting right. But my issue began only 1 mile into the first drive, not 500 like the OP.
    Last edited by TheProPilot; 02-07-2019 at 01:58 PM.

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