ABS and Brake Issue

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Thread: ABS and Brake Issue

  1. #1
    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    ABS and Brake Issue

    I am having a few different brake system issues. Not sure if they are related or not but I will explain what has been happening.

    I am getting a ABS code 61. I followed the procedures in the TSRM and nothing seems to really help. Because of this I don't have abs. But the weird part is I don't have any lights on the dash.
    I do have Proefi installed and removed the Trac ecu that is in the passenger footwell. But this seems to be a normal part of the procedure so this shouldn't have caused any issues.
    I also have 3 wheel speed sensors wired to the ABS for the Proefi traction control, as well as 3 wires wired to the Trac ecu plug to use the Trac indicator, Trac On/off button, and light.


    I still have the factory trac actuator pump in the car.


    I have a new OEM rotors, Hawk HPS front pads, and oem rear pads, and stainless brake lines.

    The brake pedal feels like no matter how hard I push the pedal it still doesn't slow the car down like it should. Seems like bad brake fade or really cold brake pads with no initial bite at all.

    Could this be glazed pads, booster, or master cylinder?



    Or, is somehow all of this related to one another?
    I miss having sensitive brakes.

    TIA!

    David
    94' Single Turbo 6 Speed

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    Boost Junkie 1A1's Avatar
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    Things to check:

    Did you insert the resistor in the Trac plug near the master cylinder?
    Have you pulled all of your ABS sensors to see if one may have debris (metal) on them?

    These are 2 things that happened to me that caused similar issues. Once corrected all was well.

    Steve


    1993.5 Anthracite 6 SPD//PRO EFI//PTE6766//3-Row//E-85Fuel Sys//PHR I/M//GSC//IP 10/1 motor//Manley//RPS C/C//CCW C14//Brembo BBK//TRD LSD//930WHP/38PSI
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    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1A1 View Post
    Things to check:

    Did you insert the resistor in the Trac plug near the master cylinder?
    Have you pulled all of your ABS sensors to see if one may have debris (metal) on them?

    These are 2 things that happened to me that caused similar issues. Once corrected all was well.

    Steve

    Hi Steve,

    I still have the Trac pump with everything hooked up. Am I suppose to disconnect the trac pump connector as if I was deleting it with the 10k ohm resistors?
    I also have not checked the abs sensors for any debris. I will definitely give that a look over as well.

    I believe code 61 is "open or short in THFA, TRCO circuit ABS & TRAC ECU, TRAC ECU"

    Not sure if any of this is causing my horrible braking performance or if it might be glazed pads or faulty booster pump. I checked the booster pump one way check valve on the vacuum line and that works fine.

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    Boost Junkie 1A1's Avatar
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    The TRAC system won't work without the ECU. Just remove everything and use the resistor. Also, if you have debris in one of the magnetic pick ups, it will cause that code. I had the same issue. Be sure to bleed the brakes once you remove the TRAC pump, etc and protect your paint gains the brake fluid.

    Steve

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    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    I'll find some time this week to remove the TRAC system and check the abs sensors for any debris stuck to them. I will report back after that's done and brakes are bled if it changes anything.

    David

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    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    Update: I cleaned every wheel speed sensor as there was a ton of debris on every corner. Then deleted the trac pump and actuator, and while I was at it I upgraded to the 98' master cylinder. Rebled the brakes and adjusted the brake booster adjustment rod, now the brakes grab extremely hard right off the top of the pedal. I couldn't believe what a difference adjusting that rod going into the master cylinder made. The pedal was so mushy and would depress halfway before starting to brake.

    Oh, and my ABS works now too!

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    Boost Junkie 1A1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daviddi92 View Post
    Update: I cleaned every wheel speed sensor as there was a ton of debris on every corner. Then deleted the trac pump and actuator, and while I was at it I upgraded to the 98' master cylinder. Rebled the brakes and adjusted the brake booster adjustment rod, now the brakes grab extremely hard right off the top of the pedal. I couldn't believe what a difference adjusting that rod going into the master cylinder made. The pedal was so mushy and would depress halfway before starting to brake.

    Oh, and my ABS works now too!
    There you go! Great news that all is well now.

    Steve

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    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1A1 View Post
    There you go! Great news that all is well now.

    Steve
    Thanks Steve! Didn't even think to check the wheel speed sensors like you mentioned.

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    SupraForums Member mkivsoopratt's Avatar
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    Did you adjust the rod at the brake pedal to booster or the rod from booster to master?
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    SupraForums Member T6Rocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkivsoopratt View Post
    Did you adjust the rod at the brake pedal to booster or the rod from booster to master?
    I also have the same question because I didn't know there was an adjustment for that. I do know that an adjustment at the brake pedal can leave you with the brake light on because I tried it one time. Also, on an automatic, if the brake light is on, the torque converter won't lock up.

    Side question, I occasionally get the ABS light on. Usually, a restart gets rid of it, and it has never been on more than one start-up (knock on wood).

    Al
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  13. #11
    SupraForums Member daviddi92's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkivsoopratt View Post
    Did you adjust the rod at the brake pedal to booster or the rod from booster to master?
    There is an adjustment rod at the brake pedal to booster, but that only sets pedal height and free play.

    If you pull off the master cylinder by loosening the two nuts and pulling it up over the booster, there is another adjustment rod. Basically this rod sets the gap between where the brake booster rod gets pushed out by the pedal, until the point where it actually contacts the master cylinder. You want this gap to be as close as possible without your brakes dragging. You will need a 7mm wrench and a small vice grip to hold the rod from spinning while adjusting this rod.

    It took me 4 years of chasing poor braking performance to figure this out.

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