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Single turbo time:) Reliable opinions needed!!

5K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  CzA 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys
Just looking for some solid info from others who have done this with great success to their Supra.

I own a 93 JDM Supra RZ, currently bpu/FMIC with stock motor stock fuel system with Bosch 044 fuel pump(300LPH). In good working order making max 410whp . I use it for lapping days, time attack..etc

Goal = reliable 650-675whp on 94 octane pump gas.

Looking for full boost around 4500-4750rpm but not coming in very abrupt to prevent shortblock damage.

My plan is to do the head work, Camshafts, new springs, retainers, keepers, valve seals. Stronger head studs and Head gasket if needed.

I am leaning towards Precision Turbo 6466 or 6766 and I am unsure about what compressor A/R and what Turbine A/R would be best for my application. Also Journal or Ball bearing??
Which exhaust manifold ???
What brand/size injectors???
Help with fuel system parts needed also please.

So long story short, what best QUALITY parts do I need ?


ECU=
Camshaft=
Valve springs=
Retainers =
Valve seals, leaning towards OEM=
Head studs(if necessary)=
Headgasket(if necessary)=
Turbo=
Exhaust Manifold=
Injectors=


THANKS GUYS!
Jay
 
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#3 ·
650-675whp on 94 octane pump gas, and worrying about bending rods/etc really aren't going to happen simultaneously. The rod-killer/main-killer is a combo like a 6266 or 6466 that's all-in on E85 and making 800+whp and similar tq figures. Generally speaking, so long as you don't exceed ~650wtq below 4500rpm you're going to be fine.
You won't likely see that happen on pump gas no matter how good the pump gas is.

Also, a glaring omission from your parts list is a standalone ECU. If that's because you've already got a tuner and a quality EMS in mind and you're just sorting out the hard parts, disregard. But if you haven't considered that yet, that is absolutely the most crucial component in this setup.

But if this were my car to build:

Camshaft= GSC S1
Valve springs= GSC beehive
Retainers = GSC Ti
Valve seals, leaning towards OEM= OEM is fine
Head studs(if necessary)= the shelf-stock ARP 2000 head studs are fine, and cheap insurance if you're in there. For sub ~900-1000whp setups there's no need to go to the exotic options such as L19, CA625, or 1/2in custom studs.
Headgasket(if necessary)= Toyota OEM 2JZ-GTE headgaskets have held 1400+. No need to reinvent the wheel here.
Turbo= DBB every time in a road race car. The transient response difference is well worth it on a road course or when canyon carving. I given your pump gas goals I would strongly recommend a newer Garrett GTX Gen 2 option, specifically a GTX3582R or perhaps the GTX3584RS - Unfortunately when going for 600+ on pump you will need headwork and you will need a larger turbo because you just have to move more air mass per psi of boost. If race gas, E85, or methanol were options you might be able to go as small as a GTX3076R Gen II
A DBB Gen 2 PTE 6266 or 6466 would also be strong choices. For road racing, I would avoid any of the Borg Warner options in that size range because they're significantly lazier in transient response. They are durable, though.
Regardless of the turbo chosen, I honestly gravitate towards the larger turbine housings, especially when going for max HP on limited boost/limited octane, and doubly so in a road race/lots of long extended sessions of full throttle/full boost. Larger turbine housings mean reduced backpressure and lower EGT's. With modern turbochargers the response doesn't suffer in larger housings as bad as it did with the old school stuff.

Exhaust Manifold= The FSR/SPA turbo cast T4 manifold, no question. Hard laps will eventually crack virtually any tubular manifold and the FSR/SPA manifolds have gone over 1200whp so I doubt there's much in the way of meaningful restriction at your HP level, and the durability and spool advantages will be very much worthwhile.

Injectors= Any of the quality EV14-based 1000-1300cc options would do just fine. Injector Dynamics and Fuel Injector Clinic both have great options in those size ranges. Again, the best injectors in the world don't mean shit if you're running a garbage ECU or you have a tuner that doesn't know WTF he's doing.

Other Parts=
-4in Downpipe/Midpipe regardless of catback size or choice. It does wonderful things for response and HP regardless of the boost level, turbo size, or anything else. It's faster spool and more HP and less backpressure everywhere. Win-win-win-win.
-The 044 pump was a hero in its day, but now it's the HKS T04R/GReddy T78 of fuel pumps now but without the sweet nostalgic sound or look under the hood. Newer Walbro 416/450 options would achieve your HP goals on gasoline (and even E85 depending) with a single pump, but the 044 will not.
I would strongly recommend the Radium Auto fuel pump hanger for the MKIV, and pretty much everything Radium makes that I've seen or installed on customer cars over the years has been of outstanding quality. If I was starting myself from a clean slate, I'd just throw the Radium Auto catalog at my MKIV (rail, regulator, FPD, catch cans, pump hanger, etc) and call it a day. If you already have another rail/lines/regulator kit, no need to change them to Radium parts just because.
With your HP level, too, you don't need to get crazy with fuel lines. A single -8AN feed from your Wally 450 to the firewall side of the rail and using the stock feed line as a return line will work just fine, and save you a lot of headache on fuel lines and fittings. That combo will go as far as one Walbro 450 can without any fuss, too.



As an aside, I moved this out of the technical subsection as this is more of a 'performance/modification discussion' sort of topic. If you wanted to get into the engineering-level details about specific components or really get into the weeds on a much narrower or specific issue, the technical subsection is the best pick.
 
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#5 ·
"-4in Downpipe/Midpipe regardless of catback size or choice. It does wonderful things for response and HP regardless of the boost level, turbo size, or anything else. It's faster spool and more HP and less backpressure everywhere. Win-win-win-win. "

So if it were 4inch downpipe and midpipe then reduced to 3inch all the way back, no cat, this would be ok? I'm about to upgrade to a 4inch setup my self and currently have a complete 3inch front to back. Would the power differences between complete 4 inch front to back vs 4 inch down/mid to 3" be noticeable?
 
#6 ·
Im actually about to plan something similar.
Any updates to this guys?
 
#7 ·
My Setup

Fuel Kit: Radium Engineering Supra Kit
ECU: AEM Infinity 506
Camshaft: Stock
Valve Springs: Stock
Retainers: Stock
Valve Seals: OEM
Head Studs:OEM
Headgasket:OEM
Turbo: PTE 6466
Exhaust Manifold: PHR Street Torque
Injectors: ID1300
Clutch: ACT TS4-HDSS
Transmission: V160
Exhaust: 3 Inch Downpipe + HKS Carbon-Ti Exhaust
Sensors: All AEM for fuel pressure, oil pressure, MAP, IAT, Boost Solenoid

I made 450 whp on 91 before the knock was getting questionable. On E85, this setup made 600 whp @ 28 PSI at 85% duty cycle on the 1300cc injectors. Larger fuel injectors will take me to quite a bit further but I will run out of clutch. If you are going to run 94, you may want to consider a larger turbo like a 69mm to keep the PSI down but hit the power you need without knock being a factor. The OEM cams seem to run out of steam above 6500 RPM, the GSC S1 is where I would go.

Other parts to consider
EGR delete kit
Billet Timing Belt Tensioner - Stock will eventually break
Upgraded Crank Pulley - Stock will explode eventually
Fresh Coil Packs - Denso 673-1200
 
#9 ·
What turbo / psi?
 
#11 ·
650whp + on just pump gasoline, no methanol injection, you will need bigger than a 64mm turbo.

7675 gen2 would be a "safe" bet for your goals, may even still fall short on the pump gas dyno number tho. But don't get caught up chasing a number!
 
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#13 ·
what brand?
 
#15 ·
posted this in the dyno section with a graph

2jzgte, Non vvti
723 hp
570 tq
26psi 94 octane

Block:
Eagle rods
CP Pistons- 9:1 compression
ACL bearings
ARP main rod Bolts
Upgraded wrist pins
Titan Oil Pump
Titan Motorsports Crank Damper Pulley V2
ETC...

Head:
Stock head
Tomei 264 cams
Tomei Cam gears
ARP head Bolts

Turbo:
Precision Gen 2 6870 - 1.0 divided T4
Precision 46mm wastegate
Sound performance T4 Divided manifold

Engine management:
AEM V2 ECU
 
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