First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

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Thread: First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

  1. #1

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    First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

    Hi everyone! I am getting ready to pull the engine out of my 91 in order to fix the head gasket and reseal the engine. While it's out, I figured now would be an excellent time to upgrade some things to prepare for bigger horsepower in the future. I already have a turbo back 3" exhaust. Note that I'm not interested in anything external at the moment, since the stuff I'm already doing is maxing out my budget. I can add things like a bigger turbo later on. Below is the list of things I'm already planning on doing, is there anything else I should be doing while I have the engine out anyway?

    • All new seals (Arrived).
    • All new coolant hoses (Arrived).
    • New oil pump & oil squirters (Arrived).
    • AZ Performance hardline (Arrived).
    • Technico 7M Aux Shaft (Arrived).
    • Resurface Head & Block.
    • MLS Head Gasket - Cometic 1.9mm x 84mm bore.
    • ARP Head Studs (Already have, using ARP lube, torqued to 90 ft-lbs).
    • Bosch 550 injectors (Arrived).
    • Tweak'd Wiring Harness (Ordered).
    • ECUMaster Black (Arrived).
    • ACT HD Street / Strip Clutch Kit (Arrived).
    • OEM Pressure Plate Bolts (Arrived).
    • Resurfaced Flywheel.
    • ARP Flywheel Bolts (Ordered)
    • Denso TT Fuel Pump (no 12V mod).
    • New Starter (since they're a pain to replace).
    • Aeromotive AFPR Kit (Arrived).
    • Driftmotion Digital CPS V2 Upgrade (Arrived).
    • ATI 918525 Damper Pulley (Arrived).
    • Custom 7M ATI Pulley Bolt (Arrived).
    • ARP Inserts (200-8574) (https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...d-gasket-issue)
    • Zulu cooling mod?


    Just for reference, the above list costs about $6,200.00 BEFORE any labor goes into the car. My machine shop is charging me $1,900.00 in labor to do the work. This kind of build ain't cheap!

    EDIT: I'm keeping the list above updated as I change my mind so I have an easy to find list and people can reference my current list before making comments.

    Build Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZZxoR9172FCPKUmaA
    Last edited by 877mgte; 05-07-2019 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Updated parts list.

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  3. #2
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    I would skip the 255 and go right to the 460 or the Denso TT pump. Make sure you have an AFPR too. Pull off the factory oil cooler/relief valve.

    Auto or 5 speed?


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    Thanks! Any recommendations for a good AFPR?

    It's a 5 speed, that's why I'm getting a new clutch. I'm looking to keep the pedal pressure light enough for it to be a daily, even though it's only a nice weather / show car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Elibutton View Post
    I would skip the 255 and go right to the 460 or the Denso TT pump. Make sure you have an AFPR too. Pull off the factory oil cooler/relief valve.

    Auto or 5 speed?


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  6. #4
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    Driftmotion has a kit (Aeromotive) that works well. I have it.

    Sorry missed the “clutch” line item.


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    SupraForums Member jrollins's Avatar
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    That's pretty much the list. Check the rear seals twice....

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    What about the head stud insert washer mod and the zooloo #6 cooling mod

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...3&share_type=t

    Search "7mgte zulu mod" on you tube for a short video

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    Canada, Eh? Enraged's Avatar
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    If you are sticking with the stock CPS, I'd suggest checking the seals and the condition of the wires. Driftmotion sells a rebuild kit that has a new seal and bearing.

    Are you rebuilding the engine completely or just doing seals? Rings, bearings, timing belt and tensioner, valve seals, check valve clearance. If it's apart anyways, I'd put in a Technico oil pump bearing retainer plate. What condition is the waterpump? For exterior to the engine, check the condition of the coolant hoses that bolt to the block, those 90 degree bends are a lot easier to replace with the motor out of the car.

    With the engine out, now is the time to look at the power steering. Is the rack good? You can upgrade the rack mounts to poly, change the lines (Driftmotion sells braided lines), etc.

    Also, clean the engine bay.
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  10. #8

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    Thanks! I'd been reading about those, but haven't made up my mind yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by limbodk View Post
    What about the head stud insert washer mod and the zooloo #6 cooling mod

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...3&share_type=t

    Search "7mgte zulu mod" on you tube for a short video

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  11. #9

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    I am sticking with the stock CPS. Good point!

    I'm debating doing rings / bearings. The engine seems fine besides BHG symptoms, so I think the ones that are there are fine, but while it's apart anyway that might be a good idea.
    Timing belt and tensioner, valve seals and a valve job will definitely be done.
    I'll look into that oil pump plate.
    Water pump has maybe 5k on it, but I have a new one as well. Will probably keep the existing one if it looks good.
    Good point about the coolant hoses. I didn't put them on the list, but I will definitely be replacing all the factory hoses.

    I do plan on checking out things like the steering system as I get to them, and the engine bay cleanup is absolutely 100% going to happen :-) I don't want to be embarrassed to open my hood anymore!

    Quote Originally Posted by Enraged View Post
    If you are sticking with the stock CPS, I'd suggest checking the seals and the condition of the wires. Driftmotion sells a rebuild kit that has a new seal and bearing.

    Are you rebuilding the engine completely or just doing seals? Rings, bearings, timing belt and tensioner, valve seals, check valve clearance. If it's apart anyways, I'd put in a Technico oil pump bearing retainer plate. What condition is the waterpump? For exterior to the engine, check the condition of the coolant hoses that bolt to the block, those 90 degree bends are a lot easier to replace with the motor out of the car.

    With the engine out, now is the time to look at the power steering. Is the rack good? You can upgrade the rack mounts to poly, change the lines (Driftmotion sells braided lines), etc.

    Also, clean the engine bay.

  12. #10

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    I checked their website and don't see that part, what does it do and do you have a link?

    Quote Originally Posted by Enraged View Post
    If it's apart anyways, I'd put in a Technico oil pump bearing retainer plate.

  13. #11
    Canada, Eh? Enraged's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    I checked their website and don't see that part, what does it do and do you have a link?
    http://technicoracing.com/cs/index.p...product_id=293

    Replaces the stock bearing retainer which has been known to fail. Also, check your oil pump driveshaft gear (looks like a timing gear), they can get odd wear which can lead to failure.
    Last edited by Enraged; 03-21-2019 at 04:28 PM.

  14. #12

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    Thanks! Will do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Enraged View Post
    http://technicoracing.com/cs/index.p...product_id=293

    Replaces the stock bearing retainer which has been known to fail. Also, check your oil pump driveshaft gear (looks like a timing gear), they can get odd wear which can lead to failure.

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    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Thanks! Any recommendations for a good AFPR?
    I have been using the 13121 Aeromotive one that DriftMotion sells along with a Marshall 100 psi gauge. It works good and I mounted it in that factory alarm spot. Check out my build thread in my sig and you might see something that you may use on your build.

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  16. #14
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    I was actually just about to post a thread like this. Curious about the Tweak'd Wiring Harness you mentioned. I couldn't find it for the 7M-GTE on their site, is that something they offer offline?

    Driftmotion offers an upgraded oil pump that I've seen recommended here before - https://www.driftmotion.com/Driftmot...p-p/dm1072.htm

    I also have a strong running stock 7M-GTE right now but it's just about to hit 160k which leads me in the direction Enraged mentioned about adding rings and bearings to the mix since I'll have it open.
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  17. #15
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Kine Guy View Post
    Curious about the Tweak'd Wiring Harness you mentioned. I couldn't find it for the 7M-GTE on their site, is that something they offer offline?
    You have to contact them since they do not list it and you need to send in your core for them to rebuild. Someone else on SM who recently had their 7m harness built from them did not like the job they did. I would have used Yotaconnectors for a harness rebuild since it starts at $500 plus they have tons of new connectors they change out but I ended up making my own harness.

    https://www.yotaconnectors.com/product-p/yc-7mhar.htm

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    Oh wow, that site is going in my bookmarks! Thanks!

  19. #17

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    Thanks! I'm thinking I'll go with the DriftMotion kit, I'm putting together a massively expensive order from them anyway.

    I'll definitely check out your build thread for ideas.

    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    I have been using the 13121 Aeromotive one that DriftMotion sells along with a Marshall 100 psi gauge. It works good and I mounted it in that factory alarm spot. Check out my build thread in my sig and you might see something that you may use on your build.

  20. #18

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    Thanks! It's a bit late on the harness, I've already ordered from Tweak'd. I'm having them do a completely new harness (no core), so hopefully it will turn out great. So far I'm happy with their customer service, and the custom harness they're building for me will have a ton of extra wiring in it for additional sensors and such, so my engine bay should look nice and clean. I'll try and remember to post a review when it's complete!

    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    You have to contact them since they do not list it and you need to send in your core for them to rebuild. Someone else on SM who recently had their 7m harness built from them did not like the job they did. I would have used Yotaconnectors for a harness rebuild since it starts at $500 plus they have tons of new connectors they change out but I ended up making my own harness.

    https://www.yotaconnectors.com/product-p/yc-7mhar.htm

  21. #19

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    How do you like your lightweight steel flywheel, and how much does it weigh? I'm looking for a streetable show car, not a full race car. I don't want to sacrifice driveability, so I'm leaning towards just resurfacing the stock flywheel at the moment.

    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    Check out my build thread in my sig and you might see something that you may use on your build.

  22. #20
    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Hi everyone! I am getting ready to pull the engine out of my 91 in order to fix the head gasket and reseal the engine. While it's out, I figured now would be an excellent time to upgrade some things to prepare for bigger horsepower in the future. I already have a turbo back 3" exhaust. Note that I'm not interested in anything external at the moment, since the stuff I'm already doing is maxing out my budget. I can add things like a bigger turbo later on. Below is the list of things I'm already planning on doing, is there anything else I should be doing while I have the engine out anyway?

    • All new seals.
    • New oil pump & oil squirters.
    • Resurface Head & Block.
    • MLS Head Gasket (Recommendations)?
    • ARP Head Studs.
    • Bosch 550 injectors.
    • Tweak'd Wiring Harness.
    • ECUMaster Black.
    • New Clutch (Recommendations)?
    • Resurfaced Flywheel.
    • 12V Fuel Pump Mod.
    • 460 / Denso TT Fuel Pump.
    • New Starter (since they're a pain to replace).
    • AFPR (Recommendations)?
    • Driftmotion Digital CPS V2 Upgrade
    I am so fucking pumped to see so many 7M-GTE rebuild/restoration threads!

    When replacing the oil pump, read up on shimming the relief valve a bit and also read up on bending the oil pickup to be closer to the bottom of the pan. Inspect the oil pump drive gear because I've seen them crack and fail - typically on the 'spokes' of the gear.
    Personally I have found the oil squirters to be of dubious value for most street builds - you're stealing oil from bearings to dump piston heat into them, and this is a benefit from an OE perspective because they need to ensure the engine has a chance to survive when trophy wife Debra fills that car with 86 and merges onto a freeway in 100*F weather.
    If you're building a car that'll see extensive road race track days/long ass highway pulls etc, and you're running a good, ducted oil cooler setup and monitor oil temps, there's a good argument to keep them.

    What Elibutton said was also 100% on-the-money about removing the factory oil relief valve and the partial-flow oil cooler setup - remove that whole oil filter housing from the side of the block and go to a 7M-GE style union bolt and a full-flow oil cooler on a thermostatic sandwich plate. That is a really good idea even if you're basically doing a stock build.

    The ye olde HKS 1.2mm bead works great, there's also a Cometic 0.51" (about 1.2mm) with an 84mm bore that works a bit better with a stock bore vs the HKS's 86mm bore. The Cometics had an issue with rivets that hold the MLS layers together being in places that interfered with block/head sealing, so be mindful of rivet placement if you're going with the cometic and trim/drill out rivets as needed.

    Personally I'd just go with the HKS HG and call it a day - it'll hold anything you can do on the stock pistons and then some.

    Injectors - 550's are pointless with a stock CT26 turbo and the only benefit to old school EV1 style Bosch 550's is how they play well with the stock ECU and OG piggybacks. Since you're going to a ECUmaster which as far as I know only supports high imp injectors and requires a resistor pack to run low imp, I'd just get a set of modern EV14 pattern injectors of the appropriate size for your fuel and power level desired when the time comes - yes they are that much better. Get a set of EV14 pattern 725cc or 1000cc or similar for a non-vvti 2JZ-GE as that'll have the same injector length and 11mm feed used by the 7M-GTE, and it's a lot easier to find listings and options for the 2JZ-GE these days. You'll only use a fart's worth of their available duty cycle on the stock CT26 turbo but at least your base tuning will be that much closer to what you need when it's time to turn things up. This saves tuning time and also permits you to make tuning changes for drive-ability and environmental changes that'll carry over to your bigger turbo setup etc.

    With the Walbro 460 pump, make sure you run an AFPR (the Aeromotive recommendation is proven, I've also had good luck with Fuellab regulators too) and run a larger return line that eliminates the 'j tube'. The J-tube has a engineered restriction in case of FPR failure and you'll have crazy high fuel pressures at idle and low load with a Walbro 460 if that's not eliminated. Driftmotion sells a very nice AFPR install kit that basically does all the hard work there for you.
    If you opt for the TT Supra pump instead, I would leave the 10/12v switching in place. Walbros tend to make a lot of noise when fed less than 12v but that is not the case with the Denso pumps. I have never seen a 12v mod fix anything or improve anything unless it was bypassing a faulty fuel pump ECU, or someone installed a 255 and wanted to reduce the 'Walbro whine' from the 10v operation. There is no other major benefit performance-wise or otherwise. The TT Supra pumps are silent compared to the Walbros and will completely support ~450-500whp on pump gas as a single pump.

    New clutch - do NOT get anything with an unsprung hub. Personally I have run ACT pressure plates with stock clutch discs to ~400-450wtq on several different setups and while the pedal pressure is a bit higher the engagement & slip-ability is very nice and easy to drive, especially with the stock flywheel. As an interim that matches your stock turbo, there's no need for anything more. Use new flywheel bolts!

    With the V2 CPS, and the ECU master, consider ditching the stock 7M-GTE coils and going to IS300 coils instead and having your wiring harness made to suit those. They are hotter and support significantly more HP than most tired old 7M-GTE coils do. Doing this now will ensure reduced growing pains in the future when you build an engine and go for bigger HP, much like going for better injectors now instead of wasting tuning time with older, smaller injectors that will not support your end goals.

    Speaking of which - what's your intended HP goal? If it's ~400whp or less I would honestly skip the standalone entirely.

    Keep us posted on your progress!
    Jeff
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  23. #21
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    How do you like your lightweight steel flywheel, and how much does it weigh? I'm looking for a streetable show car, not a full race car. I don't want to sacrifice driveability, so I'm leaning towards just resurfacing the stock flywheel at the moment.
    I never drove with the OEM flywheel but weight wise it was slightly lighter when I held both the OEM flywheel and this lightweight one. I like this steel flywheel and have no complaints with it since I wanted to keep street driveability in mind for my build.

  24. #22
    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    I never drove with the OEM flywheel but weight wise it was slightly lighter when I held both the OEM flywheel and this lightweight one. I like this steel flywheel and have no complaints with it since I wanted to keep street driveability in mind for my build.
    On this note - I would emphatically recommend against ever going to one of the Aluminum based flywheels on a 7M-GTE. The tendency to warp and cause pulsations during clutch engagement and other annoying shit is very real. Lighter-weight 100% steel flywheels are good to go if that's what you want.

  25. #23

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    Thanks! That's a lot of information, which I'll go over carefully when I'm not at work!

    I don't really have a HP end goal, I tend to just modify things as they break. Since the HG is toast and it leaks oil, I'm going to pull it and do everything right the first time so I don't have to take it out again for many many years. Eventually, it would be nice to hit 500WHP, but that's many years down the road.

    I've already ordered the ECU and wiring harness (although they may not have started building it yet, so I might be able to make modifications). I currently have them making it for Bosch High Imp injectors, which I figured would allow me to run 550s for now and upgrade easily to larger Bosch injectors later on if desired.

    I'll definitely keep you guys posted!


    Quote Originally Posted by Wreckless View Post
    I am so fucking pumped to see so many 7M-GTE rebuild/restoration threads!

    When replacing the oil pump, read up on shimming the relief valve a bit and also read up on bending the oil pickup to be closer to the bottom of the pan. Inspect the oil pump drive gear because I've seen them crack and fail - typically on the 'spokes' of the gear.
    Personally I have found the oil squirters to be of dubious value for most street builds - you're stealing oil from bearings to dump piston heat into them, and this is a benefit from an OE perspective because they need to ensure the engine has a chance to survive when trophy wife Debra fills that car with 86 and merges onto a freeway in 100*F weather.
    If you're building a car that'll see extensive road race track days/long ass highway pulls etc, and you're running a good, ducted oil cooler setup and monitor oil temps, there's a good argument to keep them.

    What Elibutton said was also 100% on-the-money about removing the factory oil relief valve and the partial-flow oil cooler setup - remove that whole oil filter housing from the side of the block and go to a 7M-GE style union bolt and a full-flow oil cooler on a thermostatic sandwich plate. That is a really good idea even if you're basically doing a stock build.

    The ye olde HKS 1.2mm bead works great, there's also a Cometic 0.51" (about 1.2mm) with an 84mm bore that works a bit better with a stock bore vs the HKS's 86mm bore. The Cometics had an issue with rivets that hold the MLS layers together being in places that interfered with block/head sealing, so be mindful of rivet placement if you're going with the cometic and trim/drill out rivets as needed.

    Personally I'd just go with the HKS HG and call it a day - it'll hold anything you can do on the stock pistons and then some.

    Injectors - 550's are pointless with a stock CT26 turbo and the only benefit to old school EV1 style Bosch 550's is how they play well with the stock ECU and OG piggybacks. Since you're going to a ECUmaster which as far as I know only supports high imp injectors and requires a resistor pack to run low imp, I'd just get a set of modern EV14 pattern injectors of the appropriate size for your fuel and power level desired when the time comes - yes they are that much better. Get a set of EV14 pattern 725cc or 1000cc or similar for a non-vvti 2JZ-GE as that'll have the same injector length and 11mm feed used by the 7M-GTE, and it's a lot easier to find listings and options for the 2JZ-GE these days. You'll only use a fart's worth of their available duty cycle on the stock CT26 turbo but at least your base tuning will be that much closer to what you need when it's time to turn things up. This saves tuning time and also permits you to make tuning changes for drive-ability and environmental changes that'll carry over to your bigger turbo setup etc.

    With the Walbro 460 pump, make sure you run an AFPR (the Aeromotive recommendation is proven, I've also had good luck with Fuellab regulators too) and run a larger return line that eliminates the 'j tube'. The J-tube has a engineered restriction in case of FPR failure and you'll have crazy high fuel pressures at idle and low load with a Walbro 460 if that's not eliminated. Driftmotion sells a very nice AFPR install kit that basically does all the hard work there for you.
    If you opt for the TT Supra pump instead, I would leave the 10/12v switching in place. Walbros tend to make a lot of noise when fed less than 12v but that is not the case with the Denso pumps. I have never seen a 12v mod fix anything or improve anything unless it was bypassing a faulty fuel pump ECU, or someone installed a 255 and wanted to reduce the 'Walbro whine' from the 10v operation. There is no other major benefit performance-wise or otherwise. The TT Supra pumps are silent compared to the Walbros and will completely support ~450-500whp on pump gas as a single pump.

    New clutch - do NOT get anything with an unsprung hub. Personally I have run ACT pressure plates with stock clutch discs to ~400-450wtq on several different setups and while the pedal pressure is a bit higher the engagement & slip-ability is very nice and easy to drive, especially with the stock flywheel. As an interim that matches your stock turbo, there's no need for anything more. Use new flywheel bolts!

    With the V2 CPS, and the ECU master, consider ditching the stock 7M-GTE coils and going to IS300 coils instead and having your wiring harness made to suit those. They are hotter and support significantly more HP than most tired old 7M-GTE coils do. Doing this now will ensure reduced growing pains in the future when you build an engine and go for bigger HP, much like going for better injectors now instead of wasting tuning time with older, smaller injectors that will not support your end goals.

    Speaking of which - what's your intended HP goal? If it's ~400whp or less I would honestly skip the standalone entirely.

    Keep us posted on your progress!

  26. #24

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    Thanks! Where did you get yours? I guess the choice is now down to lightweight steel or resurfaced OEM.

    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    I never drove with the OEM flywheel but weight wise it was slightly lighter when I held both the OEM flywheel and this lightweight one. I like this steel flywheel and have no complaints with it since I wanted to keep street driveability in mind for my build.

  27. #25
    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Thanks! Where did you get yours? I guess the choice is now down to lightweight steel or resurfaced OEM.
    No problem. I got it from a local Supra owner when we traded some parts. He said he bought it from DriftMotion but he upgraded to a twin disk clutch set-up. Personally I was going to stick with the OEM flywheel on my build but I could not pass up that deal.

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