First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing? - Page 3

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Thread: First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

  1. #51
    YotaMD.com author
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoDoug View Post
    Dirty6,

    I don't understand the comment about replacing the oil squirters. These are a completely pedestrian item like an oil pan baffle as another example, that is a lifetime part and I cannot see them providing any trouble. Ever. Were you thinking of another bit, perhaps?
    They are a potential wear item. They may look like just a nozzle, but they are indeed a spring-controlled valve and can theoretically wear/leak over time.

    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    It's actually the squirter bolts. They contain a small pressure spring, which can wear out and cause oil pressure issues from what I've heard. I got an OEM set for around $60. I think that's pretty cheap insurance considering the fact that I intend for this engine to last an extremely long time.
    Agreed. I always get a new set on an engine build.

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  3. #52
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    Interesting - thanks for the insight on the squirters. I was not aware they were anything other than a tube and orifice but that makes sense if they have a moving part that can cause issues.

  4. #53

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    Just dropped off a bunch of parts at the machine shop. He asked if I wanted to balance the crank / rods / pistons for an extra $300, but said it usually wasn't necessary with these engines. Anyone here have an opinion on balancing during a rebuild?

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  6. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Just dropped off a bunch of parts at the machine shop. He asked if I wanted to balance the crank / rods / pistons for an extra $300, but said it usually wasn't necessary with these engines. Anyone here have an opinion on balancing during a rebuild?
    I don't have much experience with it, but an extra $300 isn't much in the grand scheme. I'd do it.

    When I do my engine build I plan on having everything balanced/blueprinted (I think those mean the same in this context, but I could be wrong).

  7. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Just dropped off a bunch of parts at the machine shop. He asked if I wanted to balance the crank / rods / pistons for an extra $300, but said it usually wasn't necessary with these engines. Anyone here have an opinion on balancing during a rebuild?
    I would, cheap insurance.

  8. #56
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    If you plan to turn higher RPM, you may want them to match the balance factor to the goal rpm range.
    The higher the rpm, the greater percentage.
    This means either more weight on the counterweights, or less weight on the piston/rod/pin side.

    The more modern crank balancers will actually display this info on the control screen.
    The balance factor is determined by the weight of the lower half of the rod, and rod bearing added to a percentage of the upper rod, pin, piston, and rings.
    Shops that do a lot of race engines will know the percentage numbers for different rpm ranges.

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