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Thread: First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

  1. #26

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    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds, then it's helpful to have a very thin wall 14 mm deep well socket from craftsman because its a tight fit. Make measurements (or have the machine shop) of the head and block thicknesses after its cut in order to decide which thickness of metal head gasket you're going to use. You'll want to add that metal back to OEM specifications. 0.040" = 1 mm. The Surfaces need to be very polished in order to use a stacked metal head gasket. I went with a flat metal shim gasket on top of the block sprayed with Permatex copper seal and a standard Toyota head gasket on top of that. I'm not over boosting above stock. You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM

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  3. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM
    Have a link to said shims ?

  4. #28

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    Thanks! I'll probably have the machine shop do the assembly and will go with whatever they recommend for HG thickness and shims. I'll definitely double check the head bolt torque though!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds, then it's helpful to have a very thin wall 14 mm deep well socket from craftsman because its a tight fit. Make measurements (or have the machine shop) of the head and block thicknesses after its cut in order to decide which thickness of metal head gasket you're going to use. You'll want to add that metal back to OEM specifications. 0.040" = 1 mm. The Surfaces need to be very polished in order to use a stacked metal head gasket. I went with a flat metal shim gasket on top of the block sprayed with Permatex copper seal and a standard Toyota head gasket on top of that. I'm not over boosting above stock. You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM

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  6. #29
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    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.
    Back in the supra game! 89..pics to follow shortly
    Into taking care of paint on cars. Enjoy all vehicles.

  7. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds,
    I am going to qualify that.

    That torque spec is when using the supplied lube that ARP includes with their studs. Make sure and convey not to use motor oil, machine oil etc for the stud torque down process. If they do use any other lubricant besides the ARP supplied lubricant, they have to reduce torque to the 75lbs-ft.

  8. #31

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    Thanks! That kind of info is why I started this thread. I'll definitely do that (and will update the build list in the first comment).

    Quote Originally Posted by figgie View Post
    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.

  9. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by figgie View Post
    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
    '91 Supra Turbo 5spd - White Package
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  10. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Kine Guy View Post
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
    The ATI pulley replaces the whole OEM pulley. Correct part number is 918525. The ATI damper is internally balanced and does not need to be balanced with the crank.

  11. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Kine Guy View Post
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
    Curiousity is great! It means you are open to learning.

    The ATI damper does infact replace the entire Crank damper. Going of memory and from my old posts here it has a couple of advantages.

    Weight: ATI was 7 lbs to the OEM 11 lbs.
    Functionality: ATI actually dampens. OEM did when new. Throw in a minimum of 27 years with heat cycling and the chances that the OEM damper is dampening anything is almost none existent.
    SFI Approval: the ATI damper is SFI approved for Drag racing. If I recall the OD is 5.5 inches, which according to ATI is good for dampening 550 horsepower continuous (like NASCAR)
    Serviceability: The ATI damper can be serviced and repaired. The OEM cannot be serviced.

    Couple of note if you do in fact go this route.

    It is a very tight press on fit. Follow the ATI instructions of boiling it in water and then fitting it on.
    The stock 7m Bolt will need to be cut down OR buy one that has been cut down already.

    PLEASE do not use a hammer to pound it in. You will destroy it if you do that.

  12. #35
    Another vote for Yotaconnectors! Ron has been super helpful in getting my harness rebuilt for my 7m build. Good to see another local guy on here (Da Kine Guy)!

    I'm also knee deep in a 7m rebuild would like to share a few of my own experiences/woes:

    - Replace the oil squirters if you plan on disassembling it anyway, good cheap insurance. Get a new oil pump and replace the horrid crush bent oil feed line with one from ARZ performance.
    - Some may agree/disagree, but I am switching to a full flow oil cooling system (switched to the GE oil filter block and added an aftermarket thermostat) and got rid of the stock GTE pressure based oil filter block.

    I think as long as the HG and oiling isssues are addressed, the 7m can be a pretty reliable platform!
    Last edited by Sixdirty6; 03-31-2019 at 11:30 PM.

  13. #36
    Driftmotion sells the shorter bolt that'll work with the ATI damper....

    https://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm3073.htm

  14. #37

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    Just take your original bolt to any machine shop and they will turn it down to the correct size in about 5minutes and probably for free.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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