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Thread: First time building a 7mgte - What am I missing?

  1. #26

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    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds, then it's helpful to have a very thin wall 14 mm deep well socket from craftsman because its a tight fit. Make measurements (or have the machine shop) of the head and block thicknesses after its cut in order to decide which thickness of metal head gasket you're going to use. You'll want to add that metal back to OEM specifications. 0.040" = 1 mm. The Surfaces need to be very polished in order to use a stacked metal head gasket. I went with a flat metal shim gasket on top of the block sprayed with Permatex copper seal and a standard Toyota head gasket on top of that. I'm not over boosting above stock. You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM

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  3. #27
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM
    Have a link to said shims ?

  4. #28

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    Thanks! I'll probably have the machine shop do the assembly and will go with whatever they recommend for HG thickness and shims. I'll definitely double check the head bolt torque though!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds, then it's helpful to have a very thin wall 14 mm deep well socket from craftsman because its a tight fit. Make measurements (or have the machine shop) of the head and block thicknesses after its cut in order to decide which thickness of metal head gasket you're going to use. You'll want to add that metal back to OEM specifications. 0.040" = 1 mm. The Surfaces need to be very polished in order to use a stacked metal head gasket. I went with a flat metal shim gasket on top of the block sprayed with Permatex copper seal and a standard Toyota head gasket on top of that. I'm not over boosting above stock. You can order shim gaskets in various thicknesses from: SILVER-SEAL.COM

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  6. #29
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    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.
    Back in the supra game! 89..pics to follow shortly
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  7. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    If you're going to use ARP studs with nuts torqued to 90 foot pounds,
    I am going to qualify that.

    That torque spec is when using the supplied lube that ARP includes with their studs. Make sure and convey not to use motor oil, machine oil etc for the stud torque down process. If they do use any other lubricant besides the ARP supplied lubricant, they have to reduce torque to the 75lbs-ft.

  8. #31

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    Thanks! That kind of info is why I started this thread. I'll definitely do that (and will update the build list in the first comment).

    Quote Originally Posted by figgie View Post
    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.

  9. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by figgie View Post
    877mgte

    I read the entire thread. I am saying this out loud here as you are rebuilding the engine and regardless of power, needs to be addressed (and I have not seen it mentioned).

    Do not reuse the OEM damper. Reason why, Age alone has deteriorated the rubber to almost a purely solid brittle state that is leading to separation of the outer ring to the hub. Budget for the ATI damper and avoid long term issues.
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
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  10. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Kine Guy View Post
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
    The ATI pulley replaces the whole OEM pulley. Correct part number is 918525. The ATI damper is internally balanced and does not need to be balanced with the crank.

  11. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Da Kine Guy View Post
    First time hearing about this so please forgive my curiosity. Does that replace the entire crank pulley? I'm on ATI's website and see their diagram of the bonded rubber, is that inside the pulley? Does it require any type of rebalancing with the crank?
    Curiousity is great! It means you are open to learning.

    The ATI damper does infact replace the entire Crank damper. Going of memory and from my old posts here it has a couple of advantages.

    Weight: ATI was 7 lbs to the OEM 11 lbs.
    Functionality: ATI actually dampens. OEM did when new. Throw in a minimum of 27 years with heat cycling and the chances that the OEM damper is dampening anything is almost none existent.
    SFI Approval: the ATI damper is SFI approved for Drag racing. If I recall the OD is 5.5 inches, which according to ATI is good for dampening 550 horsepower continuous (like NASCAR)
    Serviceability: The ATI damper can be serviced and repaired. The OEM cannot be serviced.

    Couple of note if you do in fact go this route.

    It is a very tight press on fit. Follow the ATI instructions of boiling it in water and then fitting it on.
    The stock 7m Bolt will need to be cut down OR buy one that has been cut down already.

    PLEASE do not use a hammer to pound it in. You will destroy it if you do that.

  12. #35
    Another vote for Yotaconnectors! Ron has been super helpful in getting my harness rebuilt for my 7m build. Good to see another local guy on here (Da Kine Guy)!

    I'm also knee deep in a 7m rebuild would like to share a few of my own experiences/woes:

    - Replace the oil squirters if you plan on disassembling it anyway, good cheap insurance. Get a new oil pump and replace the horrid crush bent oil feed line with one from ARZ performance.
    - Some may agree/disagree, but I am switching to a full flow oil cooling system (switched to the GE oil filter block and added an aftermarket thermostat) and got rid of the stock GTE pressure based oil filter block.

    I think as long as the HG and oiling isssues are addressed, the 7m can be a pretty reliable platform!
    Last edited by Sixdirty6; 03-31-2019 at 11:30 PM.

  13. #36
    Driftmotion sells the shorter bolt that'll work with the ATI damper....

    https://www.driftmotion.com/product-p/dm3073.htm

  14. #37

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    Just take your original bolt to any machine shop and they will turn it down to the correct size in about 5minutes and probably for free.

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  15. #38

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    Got the engine pulled this weekend and dropped it off at the machine shop this morning.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZZxoR9172FCPKUmaA
    Last edited by 877mgte; 04-23-2019 at 07:09 AM.

  16. #39

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    Machine shop says my flywheel isn't good enough to resurface. Any opinions on lightweight vs finding a stock one? I'd like to buy new OEM if available, but didn't seem to find one when I looked...

  17. #40
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    I’d recommend sticking with OEM. Try Facebook mk3 pages to find a used one.


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  18. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 877mgte View Post
    Machine shop says my flywheel isn't good enough to resurface. Any opinions on lightweight vs finding a stock one? I'd like to buy new OEM if available, but didn't seem to find one when I looked...
    First, take it to another machine shop and see what they say. I've seen maybe two R154 flywheels ever that were genuinely too fucked to save.

    Find another stock one if at all possible. If you MUST go lightweight, make sure it's an all-steel one do not use one of the aluminum segmented pieces of shit like Fidanza.
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  19. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wreckless View Post
    First, take it to another machine shop and see what they say. I've seen maybe two R154 flywheels ever that were genuinely too fucked to save.

    Find another stock one if at all possible. If you MUST go lightweight, make sure it's an all-steel one do not use one of the aluminum segmented pieces of shit like Fidanza.
    Thanks, but I trust the guy I took it to. He found a scratch and a pretty deep crack that might be too deep to machine past. I'm leaning towards doing the stock fw now...

  20. #43

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    Found a good deal on a resurfaced OEM FW, thanks for the advice!

  21. #44
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    Nice to see another 7M build. I'm doing a hone/rings/bearings just to start off with a solid platform and because it's reasonable money. Only 124k on it but still...

    So one thing I did not see on your list is a radiator. What are you thinking/planning there? I am planning stock as my engine will be unmodified, but you'll be putting out some heat!

  22. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoDoug View Post
    Nice to see another 7M build. I'm doing a hone/rings/bearings just to start off with a solid platform and because it's reasonable money. Only 124k on it but still...

    So one thing I did not see on your list is a radiator. What are you thinking/planning there? I am planning stock as my engine will be unmodified, but you'll be putting out some heat!
    On top of a good radiator also I suggest you upgrade the fan clutch with one from a 03 Tacoma with the v6. I recently did mine and it is a small hurricane with all that air moving when I first start the Supra now lol.
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  23. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by plaaya69 View Post
    On top of a good radiator also I suggest you upgrade the fan clutch with one from a 03 Tacoma with the v6. I recently did mine and it is a small hurricane with all that air moving when I first start the Supra now lol.
    Oh!, Don't have a part number by any chance?...also fits ok on the stock 7M fan?

  24. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hybridau View Post
    Oh!, Don't have a part number by any chance?...also fits ok on the stock 7M fan?
    I still have mine for sale actually, but shipping to Australia would be a bear. The stock fanblades fit. The fan clutch is a wee bit thicker than the stock 7M clutch, so it will sit closer to the radiator, but does not hit the radiator or shroud. Part number is 08921-04950. It was $134 a few years ago when I bought it, more expensive now I bet.

  25. #48
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    Dirty6,

    I don't understand the comment about replacing the oil squirters. These are a completely pedestrian item like an oil pan baffle as another example, that is a lifetime part and I cannot see them providing any trouble. Ever. Were you thinking of another bit, perhaps?

  26. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoDoug View Post
    Nice to see another 7M build. I'm doing a hone/rings/bearings just to start off with a solid platform and because it's reasonable money. Only 124k on it but still...

    So one thing I did not see on your list is a radiator. What are you thinking/planning there? I am planning stock as my engine will be unmodified, but you'll be putting out some heat!
    Thanks! I'm sticking with the stock radiator initially. Right now I'm just setting myself up for bigger power in the future. I'm keeping the stock turbo for now, so that limits my power output, and the radiator is easy to upgrade later on. I'm focusing on things that have to be done while the engine is out for now so as to reduce the strain on my budget.

  27. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoDoug View Post
    Dirty6,

    I don't understand the comment about replacing the oil squirters. These are a completely pedestrian item like an oil pan baffle as another example, that is a lifetime part and I cannot see them providing any trouble. Ever. Were you thinking of another bit, perhaps?
    It's actually the squirter bolts. They contain a small pressure spring, which can wear out and cause oil pressure issues from what I've heard. I got an OEM set for around $60. I think that's pretty cheap insurance considering the fact that I intend for this engine to last an extremely long time.

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