Ford 8.8?

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  1. #1

    Ford 8.8?

    Who has an 8.8 in their Mk3? does any company make a kit? need something that can hold up over 1000 horse.
    Last edited by Dudeogo; 05-02-2019 at 01:17 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    Who has an 8.8 in their Mk3? does any company make a kit? need something that can hold up over 1000 horse.
    Pretty sure no one makes a drop in kit, you'd have to do a full custom setup.

    I'd recommend a good quality LSD, i.e. OS Giken, and a fresh rebuild and you should be fine. If you're really worried about it you can upgrade to Driftmotions 29 spline R&P. DM 29 spline

  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain View Post
    Pretty sure no one makes a drop in kit, you'd have to do a full custom setup.

    I'd recommend a good quality LSD, i.e. OS Giken, and a fresh rebuild and you should be fine. If you're really worried about it you can upgrade to Driftmotions 29 spline R&P. DM 29 spline
    Will it hold up over 1000 though? At $530 that seems way too good to be true. My friend spent $3600 for a rear end to hold over 1000 on his camaro


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    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Please don't confuse these cars with anything out of Detroit...
    First, a pig-iron V8 makes HP at a much lower RPM, which means with more torque, that shears drive line parts.
    We make power with RPM, huge difference.

    Seen a guy butcher a early Cressida (1JZ power) to fit a ford IRS, and broke it within a week, then parted out the car because of the mods to the sub-frame meant nothing else would fit.

    Toyota 8" diff, and the Supra axles will take 1000 HP just fine.
    Keep in mind, that repeated launches at a drag strip will kill ANYTHING.
    Even people with more money that brains, with expensive parts in their pony cars, still break shit.

  7. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Please don't confuse these cars with anything out of Detroit...
    First, a pig-iron V8 makes HP at a much lower RPM, which means with more torque, that shears drive line parts.
    We make power with RPM, huge difference.

    Seen a guy butcher a early Cressida (1JZ power) to fit a ford IRS, and broke it within a week, then parted out the car because of the mods to the sub-frame meant nothing else would fit.

    Toyota 8" diff, and the Supra axles will take 1000 HP just fine.
    Keep in mind, that repeated launches at a drag strip will kill ANYTHING.
    Even people with more money that brains, with expensive parts in their pony cars, still break shit.
    Well that should be perfect then. Will mostly see the Mexican highways so as long as it can stand up to that no big deal. Iíve just snapped 5 axles in half on my Mazdaspeed 3 now and i donít want to deal with that on my supra. Lol. Preventative measures


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    Well that should be perfect then. Will mostly see the Mexican highways so as long as it can stand up to that no big deal. I’ve just snapped 5 axles in half on my Mazdaspeed 3 now and i don’t want to deal with that on my supra. Lol. Preventative measures


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    For highway pulls in Mexico I'd just freshen up the factory LSD. It's launching that kills diffs.

  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain View Post
    For highway pulls in Mexico I'd just freshen up the factory LSD. It's launching that kills diffs.
    Iíll probably snag the driftmotion for the occasional launch. There is no budget on this car.


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  10. #8
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    I’ve just snapped 5 axles in half on my Mazdaspeed 3 now and i don’t want to deal with that on my supra.
    Never even seen reference to anyone ever snapping A70 axles.
    They are so engineered that I actual went to smaller diameter axles (GX80) on mine, as I am all motor, and stock A70/X83 axles are just extra weight.

  11. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Never even seen reference to anyone ever snapping A70 axles.
    They are so engineered that I actual went to smaller diameter axles (GX80) on mine, as I am all motor, and stock A70/X83 axles are just extra weight.
    Thatís great to hear. Now just to figure out what my R154 needs.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    That’s great to hear. Now just to figure out what my R154 needs.


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    Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild.

  13. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by kmichaelokelly View Post
    Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild.
    Will do! I love this forum. Yíall are really straightforward with information. I wish the Mazdaspeed guys were half as helpful


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    "Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild. "

    For a 1000HP id invest in another platform. That build won't help with 3rd gear teeth or other shortcomings from the transmission at those power levels. Maybe the new R154 JZX100 will support that, but for how long? PGS r154 might be better option or the t56 from grannas. I'm not sold on the cd009. maybe the E46 M3 transmission?

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    Quote Originally Posted by kmichaelokelly View Post
    Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild.
    Quote Originally Posted by CzA View Post
    "Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild. "

    For a 1000HP id invest in another platform. That build won't help with 3rd gear teeth or other shortcomings from the transmission at those power levels. Maybe the new R154 JZX100 will support that, but for how long? PGS r154 might be better option or the t56 from grannas. I'm not sold on the cd009. maybe the E46 M3 transmission?
    I have a Marlin Crawler transmission somewhere that has no 3rd gear teeth left after a highway pull at 600rwhp......

    2JZ? Go with the Grannas T56. 7M? Really hope there truly is no budget.....

  16. #14
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain View Post
    7M? Really hope there truly is no budget.....
    This made my day !

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    This made my day !
    So true. ďIím going save some money and rebuild the 7MĒ......$20,000 later......

    Trust me I know!


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  18. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by CzA View Post
    "Just do the full Marlin Crawler rebuild. "

    For a 1000HP id invest in another platform. That build won't help with 3rd gear teeth or other shortcomings from the transmission at those power levels. Maybe the new R154 JZX100 will support that, but for how long? PGS r154 might be better option or the t56 from grannas. I'm not sold on the cd009. maybe the E46 M3 transmission?
    I would consider a T56 but I will not put a BMW transmission in my Supra. Just a personal thing


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  19. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain View Post
    I have a Marlin Crawler transmission somewhere that has no 3rd gear teeth left after a highway pull at 600rwhp......

    2JZ? Go with the Grannas T56. 7M? Really hope there truly is no budget.....
    I will not 2J swap this car. Had one, sold it. This car is staying original. Yeah, thereís no budget on the car. Iím actually consulting with another engineer friend of mine to see the feasibility of machining billet 7M blocks in the future. This build wonít have one. But possibly in the future.


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  20. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Elibutton View Post
    So true. ďIím going save some money and rebuild the 7MĒ......$20,000 later......

    Trust me I know!


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    $20k is no issue. Of course it will take a while, but Iím in no rush to finish. It will be done when itís done, and it will be done correctly.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    I would consider a T56 but I will not put a BMW transmission in my Supra. Just a personal thing
    I think I might know how you feel about the MK5 "Supra"....

    Depending on how you want to look at it, it's not necessarily a BMW transmission so much as it is a Getrag that was made for a BMW. Just like the V160 was a Getrag made for a Toyota. I'd still recommend a T56/TR6060 over the BMW trans though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    I will not 2J swap this car. Had one, sold it. This car is staying original. Yeah, thereís no budget on the car. Iím actually consulting with another engineer friend of mine to see the feasibility of machining billet 7M blocks in the future. This build wonít have one. But possibly in the future.
    Not much of a benefit for a billet 7M block. You'd be better off pursuing a billet head, that's where the real issue is. Many heads end up with chewed up cam journals or softened from overheating. The supply of good heads is dwindling and the fancy billet block won't do much good without a usable head.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    $20k is no issue. Of course it will take a while, but Iím in no rush to finish. It will be done when itís done, and it will be done correctly.
    Excellent to hear, $20k is a good starting point. Start a build thread once you get started.

    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    This made my day !
    Experience.

    Experience hurts

  22. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain View Post
    I think I might know how you feel about the MK5 "Supra"....

    Depending on how you want to look at it, it's not necessarily a BMW transmission so much as it is a Getrag that was made for a BMW. Just like the V160 was a Getrag made for a Toyota. I'd still recommend a T56/TR6060 over the BMW trans though.



    Not much of a benefit for a billet 7M block. You'd be better off pursuing a billet head, that's where the real issue is. Many heads end up with chewed up cam journals or softened from overheating. The supply of good heads is dwindling and the fancy billet block won't do much good without a usable head.



    Excellent to hear, $20k is a good starting point. Start a build thread once you get started.



    Experience.

    Experience hurts
    I actually like the MK5. I wish it would have been badged as the 2nd gen GT86 instead of the Supra. But itís fine. I felt as though the supra should have hit the $100-120k range and been built like a supercar to compete with the R35. But itís whatever. We got what we got Iím just glad to see the badge on the road again.

    Yeah may look into the head issue. Iím sure I could sell them for a good buck.


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  23. #21
    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    I can't in good conscience recommend a 7M-GTE regardless of your budget.

    I love them, I've been working on them for 20+ years, but without that kind of experience and knowledge base dealing with the 7M and innate understanding of its limitations and willingness to address them, I would skip it regardless of budget.

    1JZ or 2JZ, with a Grannas T56, and enjoy. Seriously.
    Jeff
    "I spent a lot of money on booze, chicks and fast cars. The rest I just squandered." -- George Best
    Quote Originally Posted by KING View Post
    Who would have ever thought.....the impact an automobile can make.....

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    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Ditto....
    You can't buy parts, or pay people enough to build you a dependable high output 7M.
    You have to be able to do machine work, do failure analysis, and be a part time fortune teller to get everything right the first time.

    Do you even know which block is best ?
    Can you recognize and correct issues induced by the majority of auto machine work places when they think they can do things their way because they have been building small block cheesy chevys since the dawn of time ?

    That $20000 engine gets real expensive after you have to take it apart again.

    People like Wreckless, and I have seen posts like yours over and over, and over, and few ever reach nirvana.

    Just the journey is half the fun, and being thick sculled about when to move on doesn't help.
    Wish the hell I had taken my first 7M out, and bought a 2JZ back in '93, and had missed out on the collection of what Burt Munro calls 'offerings to the gods of speed'.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burt_Munro

  25. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Ditto....
    You can't buy parts, or pay people enough to build you a dependable high output 7M.
    You have to be able to do machine work, do failure analysis, and be a part time fortune teller to get everything right the first time.

    Do you even know which block is best ?
    Can you recognize and correct issues induced by the majority of auto machine work places when they think they can do things their way because they have been building small block cheesy chevys since the dawn of time ?

    That $20000 engine gets real expensive after you have to take it apart again.

    People like Wreckless, and I have seen posts like yours over and over, and over, and few ever reach nirvana.

    Just the journey is half the fun, and being thick sculled about when to move on doesn't help.
    Wish the hell I had taken my first 7M out, and bought a 2JZ back in '93, and had missed out on the collection of what Burt Munro calls 'offerings to the gods of speed'.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burt_Munro
    I mean I guess I could buy a 1 or 2J. I have a commercial address to import to. I just wanted to keep the car original.


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  26. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Wreckless View Post
    I can't in good conscience recommend a 7M-GTE regardless of your budget.

    I love them, I've been working on them for 20+ years, but without that kind of experience and knowledge base dealing with the 7M and innate understanding of its limitations and willingness to address them, I would skip it regardless of budget.

    1JZ or 2JZ, with a Grannas T56, and enjoy. Seriously.
    I do already have a metric butt load of nice 7M parts though. Feels like a shame to trash it all.


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  27. #25
    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudeogo View Post
    I do already have a metric butt load of nice 7M parts though. Feels like a shame to trash it all.
    The 7M is pretty easy to build to ~450-500whp, relatively speaking. That's a fun, good sounding and enjoyable power level in a MK3 and you don't need to further complicate things with twin disc clutches, different transmissions, etc at that HP level either. If you could be happy keeping it around there, stay 7M.

    But having done dozens of 1000+hp setups in a variety of domestics and 2JZ based builds - if the HP number is really what you're after, you'd be crazy to stray from the proven formulas and the 7M is anything but a proven formula for 600+whp.
    You're not building a SEMA car to showcase anything or stand out from the crowd, you're not going to make thousands on 'the gram' with pictures of your hardparked MK3, etc etc. If the HP number is what you want, then you need to make a sound game plan for 1000whp right out front and these days that means JZ, LSX, or a Coyote. Any other answer is burning a lot more $$$ than you need to be burning just for the sake of having a less reliable build that will bring complication and cost along with it. Don't let social media and youtube fuck with your head on a JZ build being 'ho hum' or normal. How many 1000whp MK3's do you see on the road, period? Hell, how many clean MK3's making 200hp? A clean MK3 is a rare car these days, and a reliable build that will get and keep you out on the road putting miles on the car is what really fucking matters.

    To that end, there's nothing wrong with enjoying the nice 7M MK3 you've got now and building it to that ~450hp level and just enjoying it. But if you really want the 1000hp, I'd do some soul-searching and strongly consider parting out the 7M stuff and going JZ.

    A 2JZ VVTi 3.0L build will be reliable at 1000whp, be streetable, and with a Grannas T56 setup behind it there's no need to fuss with the rear end or any of that stuff for highway roll-ons. Everything about tuning and building that engine combination is formulaic.
    If you do put it on the drag strip, drag radials and VHT will break anything and everything but MK3 diffs are cheap and just keep an eye out for subframe cracking/damage.

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