Head Gasket Replacement - Engine Tech brand Good to Go?

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Thread: Head Gasket Replacement - Engine Tech brand Good to Go?

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    Head Gasket Replacement - Engine Tech brand Good to Go?

    Hey SF. I'm looking at Rockauto catalog and does anyone have any experience with the gasket sets from Engine Tech? They have a complete cylinder head gasket set but I can't seem to find any reviews on this company's head gasket.
    It's for my 87 7MGTE. The engine will be staying pretty much stock so I'm just planning on using a composite head gasket and ARP hardware.
    My other option is getting a complete head gasket set and Toyota factory head gasket.
    Thanks.
    Last edited by OldBonus; 05-04-2019 at 03:38 PM.

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    I recommend that you get the Toyota HG.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    SupraForums Member plaaya69's Avatar
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    Ishino also called Stone, is an OEM supplier for the 7m motor. I bought that turbo gasket set online and it even had the OEM Toyota part number on it for 1/2 the price of what the dealer normally charges. The only gasket it does not include in the set is the EGR cooler one.
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  6. #4

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    Thanks for the replies.
    So far, I'm looking Driftmotion's Toyota replacement head gasket for $95 or Partsgeek's Ishino head gasket (turbo) for around $74. Probably go with driftmotion since they have ARP head bolts and other parts I want to get.

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    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Stock, don't waste $$ for ARP bolts/studs, not needed.
    Stock head bolts in good condition are fine if torqued properly into clean holes, just don't go by published torque spec.s.
    Torque to 75 ft/lbs.
    Stock bolts don't show signs of stretch until 85.
    I would highly recommend the ARP washer mod that Quake found.
    https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...sue&highlight=

  8. #6
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    In all my rebuilds up till now I've always used a mid-tier gasket set (Stone or Ishino is practically "genuine OEM" quality) and always used a genuine Toyota OEM head gasket. On my more recent builds, I've used Toyota OEM gaskets for the exhaust. Those gaskets are metal and I've noticed a significant difference between the non-OEM kits and the genuine Toyota OEM. The non-OEM stuff can be complete garbage on the exhaust side so be cautious.

    If you're really on a budget I think even the cheap gasket kits are fine for the intake and coolant stuff. Always use genuine head gaskets though. Saving a few bucks on the head gasket is not worth it.

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    Look into the Ajusa headgasket if not going MLS. Quote below.


    The obvious difference i have seen is most composite gaskets are a layer of tin covered on each side by a layer of composite material with maybe some copper fillers around the coolant channels, the Ajusa head gasket is composite material covered on each side by tin which has some kind of sealer on it which is actually sticky to touch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Stock, don't waste $$ for ARP bolts/studs, not needed.
    Stock head bolts in good condition are fine if torqued properly into clean holes, just don't go by published torque spec.s.
    Torque to 75 ft/lbs.
    Stock bolts don't show signs of stretch until 85.
    I would highly recommend the ARP washer mod that Quake found.
    https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...sue&highlight=
    That's great that I don't need the ARP hardware; and I'll check out the ARP washer mod. By the way, I'm planning to get the ARP thread chaser and Ultra Torque lube. Does it hurt anything to use Ultra torque if using the OEM bolts and 75 ft lbs? Since ARP's website indicates that their torque values are based on arp bolts to determine preload. (Frankly this torque & pre-load stuff is over my head...)

    Quote Originally Posted by suprarx7nut View Post
    In all my rebuilds up till now I've always used a mid-tier gasket set (Stone or Ishino is practically "genuine OEM" quality) and always used a genuine Toyota OEM head gasket. On my more recent builds, I've used Toyota OEM gaskets for the exhaust. Those gaskets are metal and I've noticed a significant difference between the non-OEM kits and the genuine Toyota OEM. The non-OEM stuff can be complete garbage on the exhaust side so be cautious.

    If you're really on a budget I think even the cheap gasket kits are fine for the intake and coolant stuff. Always use genuine head gaskets though. Saving a few bucks on the head gasket is not worth it.
    Alright, so for the exhaust manifold, exhaust to turbo and turbo to O2 housing, I'll be using metal OEM gaskets for best results.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hybridau View Post
    Look into the Ajusa headgasket if not going MLS. Quote below.


    The obvious difference i have seen is most composite gaskets are a layer of tin covered on each side by a layer of composite material with maybe some copper fillers around the coolant channels, the Ajusa head gasket is composite material covered on each side by tin which has some kind of sealer on it which is actually sticky to touch.
    I did a few searches on ajusa head gaskets and it has positive reviews, it looks to have been designed for the Mitsubishi twin turbo 4G63. Thanks for the info.

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    Just be careful not to get the BGA branded one. It used to be Ajusa made them for BGA so people may quote that part number from the last forum posts, but they are not made by Ajusa anymore.

    Some sellers on eBay also list it as an MLS headgasket, it is composite however so don't be concerned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBonus View Post
    ..... I'm planning to get the ARP thread chaser and Ultra Torque lube. Does it hurt anything to use Ultra torque if using the OEM bolts and 75 ft lbs? .
    Don't, you will over torque the bolts.
    Just clean threads, and a light coat of oil.
    The slipperier the lube, the more actual hold down tension you get, or in other words, the more strain on the actual bolt.
    Only use ultra on ARP fasteners.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixpack View Post
    Don't, you will over torque the bolts.
    Just clean threads, and a light coat of oil.
    The slipperier the lube, the more actual hold down tension you get, or in other words, the more strain on the actual bolt.
    Only use ultra on ARP fasteners.
    Ok doks, Thanks for the heads up.

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    I second the Toyota OEM head gasket. Another thing to consider is how much metal has been removed from the head and the block if it's been shaved. Toyota only allows 0.010" deviation from factory. In my case I used a solid 0.020" metal shim gasket sprayed with permatex copper on top of the engine block, then I laid a Toyota head gasket on top of that before putting the head on. I used ARP studs and nuts and torqued down to 90 foot-pounds. A Craftsman 14 mm thin wall deep socket clears the camshafts. It's held up 5 years and 30K miles, so far.
    Last edited by Bruder; 05-09-2019 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Typo

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    I second the Toyota OEM head gasket. Another thing to consider is how much metal has been removed from the head and the block if it's been shaved. Toyota only allows 0.010" deviation from factory. In my case I used a solid 0.020" metal shim gasket sprayed with permatex copper on top of the engine block, then I laid a Toyota head gasket on top of that before putting the head on. I used ARP studs and nuts and torqued down to 90 foot-pounds. A Craftsman 14 mm thin wall deep socket clears the camshafts. It's held up 5 years and 30K miles, so far.
    Sounds like you did a great job and have a reliable engine.
    I've checked my block and head for flatness and was pleasantly surprised to see that I can't pass a .003 inch feeler gauge (I think max deviation is 0.10mm/0.0039inches?).
    The engine is at 122k miles and don't think its been overheated so looks like block or head machining is not needed.
    I already ordered the Toyota OEM head gasket plus a head gasket set. I also plan on using Permatex copper spray but using the stock head bolts and torqueing to 75ft lbs.

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    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Factory flatness limit is a lot more than .003".
    Look in the TSRM, it's listed there.
    I believe you are fine.
    Stop treating this like a sbc, you will have a better outcome.

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    Max warpage is 0.10mm (0.0039"), according to TSRM.
    Last edited by Hybridau; 05-10-2019 at 11:09 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBonus View Post
    Sounds like you did a great job and have a reliable engine.
    I've checked my block and head for flatness and was pleasantly surprised to see that I can't pass a .003 inch feeler gauge (I think max deviation is 0.10mm/0.0039inches?).
    The engine is at 122k miles and don't think its been overheated so looks like block or head machining is not needed.
    I already ordered the Toyota OEM head gasket plus a head gasket set. I also plan on using Permatex copper spray but using the stock head bolts and torqueing to 75ft lbs.
    I would never consider skipping machining the head flat on a 7M rebuild. Take it to a shop, get it machined flat and smooth. I believe that process helps ensure a good seal with any head gasket.

  20. #18
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Maybe it was on the old ToySport page that I seen larger tolerances.
    After all, that is a long head made of fairly soft aluminum.
    But I like mine as flat as humanly possible.
    As long as you don't try to recover too much of an arc, because then you have a flat gasket surface, but cam bearings that don't line up.

  21. #19
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    Yep need to check both top and bottom. I've got a pristine looking head, but it is 0.25mm out on the centre of the gasket surface & the same on the top each end. If I took to just resurface as is and bolted down, then suddenly the centre cam bearings and corresponding cam journals would be out of tolerance.

    In this case needs to be straightened first, then resurfaced.
    Last edited by Hybridau; 05-12-2019 at 04:44 AM.

  22. #20

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    Head thickness and warpage are 2 different specs. Toyota allows 0.010 " deviation from the thickness of the head and the block from stock. Otherwise, you need to add it back using a shim gasket or a thicker head gasket. Measuring the block spec is a little more difficult because you need to measure it from the deck to the front main journal saddle point. Machine shop can do it because they have the tools. You can measure the head thickness yourself with a veneer caliper or large micrometer. If you have the block shaved don't forget to include the front aluminum cover so they are machined at the same time to the same level otherwise the head will be hitting it 1st before the block. Having a warped head shaved flat is a bad idea because you lock in the twist for the camshafts. Think of a banana with a flattened bottom. It's also not a good idea to spray a standard head gasket with permatex copper. Is mainly used for the bottom side of metal shim gaskets and stacked metal head gaskets.
    Last edited by Bruder; 05-16-2019 at 02:38 PM.

  23. #21
    7M Fanatic sixpack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruder View Post
    ......... Is mainly used for the bottom side of metal shim gaskets and stacked metal head gaskets.
    OK, I'm calling BULL SHIT on this mythical 7M head shims you keep posting about.
    Got a link, or a manufacture & part number ?
    Then post it, or stop posting this crap.

  24. #22
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    Yeah I think someone has been watching to much "Humble Mechanic" on Youtube. Never seen a shim gasket exist for a 7M.

    The requirement for head straightness prior to resurfacing has been mentioned several times already.

    Also did you have a link to the deviation information you mention?, I've never seen that listed. The only one I remember was warpage not minimum head thickness.

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