Yes please stick to topic and boot out any posts that do not move along the information flow. I will delete my "homer simpson" post.
Consider me down for the upgrade when ever it gets opened up to group buys. I already may have a twin turbo set to throw into the upgrade mill. The reason I say "may" is because it is a turbo set where the compressors are marked CT20. I found this may be a euro or jdm turbo set. everything else looks like the CT12 twins.
Keep it going guys, I highly appreciative.
I'm in !!! Credit card waiting !!! How much for your Hybrids Stu ? And what
supporting mods would I need ? Warranty or are you still in R&D stages ?
I'm BPU and an auto BTW.
There are 2 different hybrids being talked about in this thread. Stu's hybrids, and the GT28RS hybrids...just to clarify...
1994 White Supra 6SPD T67DBB
Very interesting stuff guys, a UK member is currently trying a similar experiment with variable vane turbos.
Just to clarify guys as this is something I have certainly been looking at lately over the single route as I love the sequential setup, I take it the J-spec manifold will need a different set of flanges, and will the j-spec turbo's be compatible with the new internals mentioned in this thread? Also how will the stock map cope with the power hike....will and emanage be sufficient with this setup or is it worth going AEM, motec etc?
I would love to hear more about this, any links to a discussion about it?
Since they would also be a "stock twins replacement/upgrade", it seems like the application of variable vane turbo/s to the 2JZGTE might also fit into this thread but if the OP's would rather keep that subject elsewhere it's up to them.
Once the variable vane stuff is developed and applied successfully, to me it seems like it would give a great alternative to sequential setups ...though I'm not sure how the costs would compare since VVT are probably still quite expensive.
Nick 95 6sp
Twin Garrett GT2860's w/TiAL SS exhaust housings, WG's and BOV's, V-band moded HKS twin manifolds, AEM v2, AEM WB, ID1000's,
AEM meth/water spray, GSC S1's, ported head, Ferrea valvetrain, CP pistons w/crown & skirt coatings, Carrillo H-beams,
OS Giken triple clutch & Super Lock LSD, Racelogic TC, TRD gen2 catback
street wheels: Veilside EvoV 9-1/2"F X 10-1/2"R with 265/35F & 285/35R NT05's
track wheels: CCW LM5 10"F X 11-1/2"R with 285/30F & 315/30R R888's
Here are pics of my gt28r dual ball bearing upgraded turbos, I sent these to Stu a while back, I don't know if he remembers. I just haven't had time to install them :/
There are also pics of an adjustable Skyline GTR wastegate
4 six speed turbos
Blue Supra TT
Red Supra TT
Corolla XRS (260fwhp)
^^^ C'mon man !!!!! Let's get those puppies on !!!!
ps:throw them on the TERCEL !!!!
Last edited by bonz; 07-18-2007 at 08:07 PM.
I could give a S#$% what THEY say. I actually have never found THEM.
Whatever...my point was there are 2 different hydrids (Stu's and Brian's) that were being discussed in this thread...So anyone inquiring as to how much needs to specify which hydrid they are talking about...
I'm also just in the process of finishing up my install of the Stu turbo's. So far so good I'm just having some issues with my VPC that I just installed so I'll keep everyone updated on how the rest of my install goes.
Last edited by bonz; 07-18-2007 at 10:06 PM. Reason: spelling
man i want this so bad! i want to max out my twins, cause not looking to go single 4 a very long time. Cause just rebuilt the turbos on my car.
#14 Ignition Signal
#31 Mass air flow meter circuit
Ive got all the dial's in the 12'O clock position and its like the box isn't working correctly. I've put the 1.2k resistor in to keep the air temp code from getting thrown on but I'm still having trouble with the unit. When I plug the old maf and disconnect the VPC the codes are off and the car runs normal.
Can you shed any light on this?????
Install on the Stu&Aaron Turbo's took about 10 hours to put everything back together but thats becuse I'm in not major hurry so I wanted to double check everything and installed new gaskets oil lines and everything.. I'm sure it could be done quicker the next time but I wanted to make sure it was perfect!
One hurdle was bolting the inlet compressor tube to the #1 turbo I got a little too much muscle into it and stripped out the stud but luckily there were about 5 more threads at the bottoms. So I was able to take a longer bolt and get it to bite down and tighten back up.
So far so good I've fired it up but just working through the VPC problem and then I'll be ready to tune. So if any one can shed some light on this VPC problem I'll be on the Dyno by next week to give ya'll some results.
2 weeks before the number 1 blew I dyno'd 411 rwhp @ 16.7psi. So I'm looking forward to seeing what it does now.
We affirm that the world’s magnificence has been enriched by a new beauty: the beauty of speed. A racing car whose hood is adorned with great pipes, like serpents of explosive breath - a roaring car that seems to ride on grapeshot....
I would also be very interested in either of these setups, since I love the sequential setup, and would prolly never go single.
3 questions though:
- If the GT28R one makes it over beta, will they be available with lines and other misc stuff that fits?
- Will the #1 boost controller also work reliably with the unmodified stock turbo setup?
- Did I understand that right that the hybrids youre using right now are a direct bolt on upgrade that dont need any modifying at all? You do need some sort of piggyback or similar, right?
Wow--things are progressing here.
1) My current set up, which are Aarons hybrids, are a direct bolt up using the oem band clamps. What this means that you dont need to take off much to install these. I think it I took like 4 hours to install them. Biggest pita is the underside oil line and the banjo fitting on the block. Hard to do as a "blind" feel install. Aarons are honed machined compressor housings with a T3 wheel. Thats all. Supporting an additional 50 whp +/-. Also less money.
2) The BNR upgrade uses GT28R "cartridge" Which means larger turbine and larger shaft. This requires an almost complete tear down to install, Since these are entirely new cartidges, the band clamp housing is machined off and totally removed. The new install uses bolts to attach to the exhaust housing (look closer at the pics and you will see) One side note that I was in error about. These GT28R's are NOT ball bearing as I thought. After discussing this more with BNR, he reminded me that he could not install the BB ones because he would bore right thru the housings. Not enough meat for those. The initial set was made well over a year ago, maybe 2, and "hammerhead" was the guy who bought it. It has taken him all this time to get around to installing them and coming up with his own style manifold and oil/water lines.
The 24 sets that I am doing now will most likely have all the water/oil lines premade. I am waiting for Bobby ("hammerhead") to finish everything up here in a week or so to iron out certain fitment issues. We are discussing the manifold issue as well. Maybe have these made. But cart before the horse here. He will be providing dynos, etc. very soon. These should make more power than the ones I am running now. Or at least the same, but capable to boost an additional 4 psi safely due to 33% larger shaft. (Turbo balanced to 180K or 24psi)
I do not intend to be the overall "provider" for these. That has yet to be determined. I am only facilitating there progress and beta testing. Since I know quite a bit about the system and have provided BNR with all the cores that he needed for this initial batch. I am also doing the "correct" style of hose and fittings for the water and oil lines. i want these to be a pefect fit. We will most likely stay with the banjo style fittings as opposed to the AN style. (Not like what you see above by "turbosupra"). AN fittings sometimes have issues when removed and re applied whereas banjo's do not.
I think the "ultimate" final package would be the oil/water lines and the manifold as a kit. But others may want just the turbos.
3) The new electronic boost controller that I am almost finished with is designed to plug directly into the EBV VSV up top. This will have the ability to control the amount of pre-transition boost from stock (10psi) up to 18psi. No more hose rerouting, just plug and play. I just need to set up the map sensor and adjust the circuitry to be accurate to boost levels (calibrated) Once overall boost is increased over stock, it is a good idea to raise the pre-transition boost a little to match full transition boost. Similar to stock from 10-11 psi, this can be like 15-18psi.
Last edited by Stu Hagen; 07-19-2007 at 12:20 PM.
Fantastic work Stu ! I am simply in awe of your dedication. A few questions though.
1) Have these required extra effort in terms of tuning or can the stock ECU actually adequately account for the change in airflow.
2) On a similar note, what type of output (boost/rwhp) is capable on pump(93) vs racegas?
I’m otherwise assuming that these are within the bounds of the stock fuel system (i.e. ~525 rwhp or so). This looks on paper like a killer street setup. The big low-end torque of the great Toyota sequential design coupled with possibly 125-130mph trap speeds.