Crank Walk Documentation - Page 2

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Thread: Crank Walk Documentation

  1. #26
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    The machine shop told me the block and crank are kaput. I'm now in the market for a gte shortblock

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  3. #27
    Slo-vertible Drifter Gnome's Avatar
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    That sucks, you might be able to get a cheap Aristo SB instead of a new SB from Toyota.

    Also if a R154 trans is used instead of the W58 or V series; would that reduce the chances of crank walk because of the pull clutch versus the push clutch?
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  4. #28
    Cheifbootknocka TooJayZee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    Also if a R154 trans is used instead of the W58 or V series; would that reduce the chances of crank walk because of the pull clutch versus the push clutch?
    No, because the presure plate still gets pushed forward to release the clutch disc.

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  6. #29
    Slo-vertible Drifter Gnome's Avatar
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    Really? I just figure it pulled the PP away from the disc.
    *Goes to wiki it*

  7. #30
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    well here my story. i sent my car to 50-50 racing to put the 2jz in it. but the story is i bought a vvt-i 2jzgte motor and tranny from tiger motorsports in canada and shipped it down to 50-50 racing . and he calls me two weeks later saying my stck 2jzgte vvt-i motor with and auto tranny has crank walk. man that is such a line of bullshit

  8. #31
    Cheifbootknocka TooJayZee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    Really? I just figure it pulled the PP away from the disc.
    *Goes to wiki it*
    Yea the TO bearing pushes in the fingers.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2jzrx7 View Post
    well here my story. i sent my car to 50-50 racing to put the 2jz in it. but the story is i bought a vvt-i 2jzgte motor and tranny from tiger motorsports in canada and shipped it down to 50-50 racing . and he calls me two weeks later saying my stck 2jzgte vvt-i motor with and auto tranny has crank walk. man that is such a line of bullshit
    Did he send you photos ? How do you really know.

  9. #32
    Somebody's Watching Me! ovey1's Avatar
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    interested to see if anyone has used the bi-tron sounds like good stuff.

  10. #33
    Slo-vertible Drifter Gnome's Avatar
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    Hmm...wiki was no help...it must be magic then
    /shrug

  11. #34
    MKIV intervention needed cuemaster's Avatar
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    ive decided to use it in my new motor.
    ive had a mkiv for 12 years now and this is the first crank walk and it pisses me off,
    what a stupid design. if you think about it there is only one of those washers
    involved with the motor, the other is just along for the ride.

  12. #35
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    Well I got a used SB from a yard with low milage. I pulled the motor apart and inspected the thrust washers. You can remove them with your finger. Granted the crank wasn't installed, it still seems too frail to me. I'd like to tack weld them in. They don't need to shift, do they? It's the high-rpm shifts that can rip them out, from what I have heard. Regarding the clutch, I'm getting a carbonetics CC which should solve the problem down the road.

  13. #36
    SupraForums Member Yogi_TRD's Avatar
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    Hmm, high RPM shifts. This is gonna suck. I actuall race the thing.

    Does anyone know of any prep you can do to the new bottom end to possibly help prevent this?

    I did the clutch switch bypass when the clutch was done but ended up with the crankwalk anyway. Made it about 7 weeks driving the car almost everyday.

  14. #37
    Now...Whitesupra94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yogi_TRD View Post
    Hmm, high RPM shifts. This is gonna suck. I actuall race the thing.

    Does anyone know of any prep you can do to the new bottom end to possibly help prevent this?

    I did the clutch switch bypass when the clutch was done but ended up with the crankwalk anyway. Made it about 7 weeks driving the car almost everyday.
    what clutch do you have and how much power are you making? driving habits?

  15. #38
    SupraForums Member spl's Avatar
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    Any fix for this weakness?

    I'm currently waiting for new bottom-end parts (aftermarket pistons and rods) and will be putting the bottom end back together with new bearings etc.

    I'd really like to know if someone has done something to fix this 2jz weakness alltogether! Anybody?
    1994 6-speed targa with built engine, modified Holset Pro55, AEM EMS v2 and E85

  16. #39
    SupraForums Member tectyl's Avatar
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    Haven't hear about crankwalk being a problem on any other car than the supra or cars with that particiular clutch setup.. Feels like toyota made a mistake here we just have to live with.. But I would think that the stiffer the pp is the more likely you are to crankwalk. So if Im putting in a new clutch on my supra it would be the double or triple RPS carbon carbon clutch, since pp is only 15% stiffer than stock.. Costs a lot, but might be cheap in the long run :P

  17. #40
    SupraForums Member spl's Avatar
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    Yep and that's sad!

    I drove 10 k miles after installing 40% stiffer pp than stock. After first 2k miles I modded the car so that I can start the car without depressing clutch pedal and ALWAYS started the car without applying clutch.

    Now that I took the engine apart, I noticed that the front side thrust washer had started to wear out just a bit (the one that prevents crank from moving backward):



    My quess, after reading quite a lot about crankwalk, is that it wore down in the beginning, when i used to depress the clutch when starting the car. There's no oil pressure when first starting the car and stiff pp will probably cause damage to the dry thrust washer as it presses the rotating crankshaft against it.. stock pp can also cause damage in the long run... or bad luck?

    Thus, I also STRONGLY recommend anyone to start their car always in neutral and without applying clutch!!

    And I can imagine that when the thrust washer wears down a bit, it will not last long at all as oil film between crankshaft and thrust washer will not be as "perfect" as it should...

  18. #41
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    I'm looking into getting the TRD single disk for my BPU Supra, or just getting the another stocker, just to be sure. But how much power can the stocker handle?
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  19. #42
    SupraForums Member tectyl's Avatar
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    370whp I hear them say, But I guess its a game of lottery anyway. the more power you have the faster the stocker will turn to shit.

    SPL did you buy your car from MR.Blackwell @speedforsale ?
    I guess there aren't to many supras around in finland :P

    Go with the rps C\C clutch instead of that peter north stiff pp you have :P

  20. #43
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    maybe I'll just get the TRD twin disk. I tried searching for it, but no luck. Any info on that clutch?

  21. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tectyl View Post
    Haven't hear about crankwalk being a problem on any other car than the supra
    DSM's have the same exact problem but it is much more wide spread than the Supra's doing it. A DSM can crank walk on a 100% stock car like it's the cars job.

  22. #45
    SupraForums Member spl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tectyl View Post
    370whp I hear them say, But I guess its a game of lottery anyway. the more power you have the faster the stocker will turn to shit.

    SPL did you buy your car from MR.Blackwell @speedforsale ?
    I guess there aren't to many supras around in finland :P

    Go with the rps C\C clutch instead of that peter north stiff pp you have :P
    yep, stock clutch cant really handle bpu... My bpu+++ eaven slipped new stock disk with rps pressure plate, the peter north stiff pp

    Tectyl: yes, i bought my sup from jeremy @ speedforsale, how did you know? there are quite a lot of mkivs in finland nowadays...most of them are rhd from japan, though! Just a couple of lhd 6-speeds (i know of 3)

    i bought a 72mm its x-trim turbo, bad ass bottom end and fuelsystem for my car.. And im planning to put carbonetics tripple disk in! Thanks for the advice anyways, youre right!!

  23. #46
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    I believe the majority of crank walk episodes are from depressed-clutch startups, which wears out the thrust washer at an extremely fast rate due to lack of lubrication.

    The ONLY way to alleviate this problem stated above is to take the only tried and true precationary steps.
    1. Purchase a multi-disk clutch setup to reduce the lateral loads put on the crank.
    2. Do the clutch switch bypass mod IMMEDIATLY.

    Some have stated that the thrust washers unseated while the engine was running, causing the engine to literally grenade. This is what happened to me. Granted, the thrust washer was loosened from months of morning startups and no clutch switch bypass. For this scenario I came up with an idea...

    In a Smallblock Chevy engine, crankshaft thrust is an actual part of the main bearings, not a mincy metal insert like the one found in the 2jz. Look at the picture below. Does the face of that bearing look familiar? Ignore whats circled, I stole this picture from somewhere on the internet.


    This setup is far more rigid than the 2jz, but it requires the installation of a new main bearing every time the thrust is out of spec. The greatest part about this setup is that it CAN NOT unseat from lateral movement or temporary loss of lubrication.

    Here is how I came up with an idea...

    While speaking with a machinist, I asked if the thrust washer for the 2jz could be installed in a more rigid fashion. He told me that he could simply weld material onto the faces of the main cap and block and grind it down to the respective amount of clearance. "What about the slits in the face of the washer for oil relief?" I asked. "Too easy" he said. What a simple, but great idea. Yeah, its a pain in the ass to truck the block to a machine shop, but I could live with some extra piece of mind. This would prevent an unseating thrust washer incident entirely.

    I am still months away from rebuilding my engine, as I have sinced moved to South Carolina for a change of scenery, but this solution will remain on my mind until I decide to or not to go ahead with it. I'm also a mechanic, not an engineer, so there may be things related to this procedure(good or bad) that I haven't thought of. I would like some feedback on this idea, however.

    Kill

  24. #47
    NiSmO [email protected] supergoji's Avatar
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    if you want to know anything and everything about crankwalk, look it up on dsmtalk or other dsm forums. it's almost a daily occurance for them lol.

  25. #48
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supergoji View Post
    if you want to know anything and everything about crankwalk, look it up on dsmtalk or other dsm forums. it's almost a daily occurance for them lol.
    So I hear..

    That was stated before in this thread. Seeing as how its a sticky, is there anything you know about it? You a DSM guy? What do they do to prevent it? Thanks for the input

  26. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gnome View Post
    That sucks, you might be able to get a cheap Aristo SB instead of a new SB from Toyota.

    Also if a R154 trans is used instead of the W58 or V series; would that reduce the chances of crank walk because of the pull clutch versus the push clutch?
    The V and R series trannies are both 'Pull' type.

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  27. #50
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    To add to this conversation, the man who ported and polished my head said that his race car crank walked. He had a stroked small block 383 that was ruined from a faulty torque converter. It ended up pulling the crank through the mains and ruined the motor in one pass. So... if its happening to autos too it could be the torque converter to blame.

    Kill

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