does anyone make stronger aftermarket thrust washers?
does anyone make stronger aftermarket thrust washers?
No I don't think so. I came up with an idea earlier today. I plan on drilling a small hole in the crank that will squirt oil directly onto the thrust washers. It will get the thrust washers oil soaked much faster than the conventional "splash" method that occurs during normal operation.
Black 1995 Supra TT ------19k miles----- U.S Spec
-Speed For Sale LLC made my dream come true-
Here is a theory and there is a lot of info about it in this link. They cut a few DSM blocks in half and compared then. I also know Marco personally and he is very good at what he does.
hope this helps
"The SupLex" 600+ whp Lexus
2007 MazdaSpeed3 ~~~daily
1992 awd talon..2.3 stroker,T67..592 awhp 30 psi(sold)
See my old race car video on my MySpace page at
go down and click on the play button to see my old DSM making 700+whp run a street race..hehe..i miss that car. Theres vids of the new car racing and making DYNO pulls.
I consulted with MVP before buying the parts that I did.. And I was never told that my RPS (Blue) PLATE and Arizona clutch would "crank-walk" and they knew that I was planning on doing 1000rwhp so I guess I am going to call them in the morning and find out whats up with that...
'94 Toyota Supra Top Secret Wide Body T88H
'00 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 430 Sport (DD)
'89 S-13 KA swap (Daily Drifter)
'04 Modded STi
'03 Yamaha R1
'99 Modded GS-R
'99 Champion's Ltd Edition R1
"In this society; We kill people, for killing people, to teach other people not to kill people.."
Spoke to Jason at MVP today and he re-affirmed me that I have nothing to worry about..
Just to bring a little tidbit from my DSM experience. Disabling the clutch switch seems to be the best way to battle crankwalk although one other thing always seems to cause it which is messing with clutch and flywheel combos. This is strictly speaking from the DSM world so dont take it as fact but I am going to assume its not so different.
I have seen many cars with a simple act clutch never have a problem as well as many. I have then seen cars with very close setups, miles, etc that use aftermarket flywheels with unproven clutch combos. These cars seem to walk left and right which I would like to attribute to the aftermarket lightened flywheels as much much fewer cars with a factory flywheel and any given clutch walk compared to those with an aftermarket flywheel. I have nothing solid to back that up except for the fact that it is a definite trend.
Just thought I would throw some info out there.
Does anyone know if this is a common problem for the 1jz as well or is this just the N/A 2jz bottom ends?
I'm asking myself why did I just find this thread??? I installed the RPS (blue) PP over winter and yesterday I was taking off from a stop sign to right hand turn and the car shuttered. It will only do this when turning and only if i accelerate before the clutch is fully out. If I take off straight no noise and if I let out slow then accelerate through a corner no noise.
Am I the newest victim of crankwalk? Is it too late to do anything about it? I will be doing the clutch bypass mod before starting it up again.
Stupid question but what does crank walk feel like? What are the symptoms?
i have another question to add, is there different degrees of crank walk, like maybe an early stage and if you catch it early it can be remedied easier than if its in more advanced stages; or is it a "you either have it or you dont" type issue and there's no gray areas.
As a victim here are my answers
the two or really one washer that keeps your crank from going back and forth
gets thinner and thinner until it can’t take the load of the pressure plate when the clutch is depressed and it fails.
You will have metal in your pan and the thrust washers will fall in there too
but not after taking a ride around your lower block.
Your oil pump will suck up all that powdered metal and distribute it throughout your whole engine,
this process scored up my cam journals pretty badly.
When you get hit with the walk your car will stall when you push in the clutch.
it will be hard to start with the clutch pushed in.
Your crank will be shot the block and pistons can be reused in most cases
but just buying a minty fresh block from curt for 2300 is the best way to go imo.
I rebuilt everything and it was about 4500 with block, oil pump, filter assy. gaskets. head work cams (i went 264 and love them)
I also did it all myself so labor was free and i know it was done right.
Curt also knows what parts you will need so ask when your ready to buy.
It’s a bitch and I wouldn’t wish it on my worst enemy good luck.
ps I was boosting on the highway the other day and was thinking that i was
glad my supra didn’t break my will because a new engine is an absolute joy and worth the hassle....almost.
Last edited by cuemaster; 07-08-2008 at 03:38 PM.
Another n00b question, when you replace the clutch, do the thrust washers generally get replaced as well?
1997 Supra TT- PT67/QSV/Vipec/HKS/AEM/SSR
2004 G35 Coupe -Brembo pkg- daily/track
2010 G37x Sedan- Wife's
glad i came accross this thread...... i have a 95 NA-t and i swapped in a v160 into recently. so im guesing i should go ahead and get rid of the switch too?
The clutch switch will be the first mod that I'll do, even when going to pick up the car.
However, I'm not too familiar with the design of the block itself, but can oil squirters be added with relative ease?
I found an article by an automatic transmission builder for hi-po cars, Art Carr, that goes on to discuss how automatics can induce crank walk as well. It was on their news page
The remedies that were discussed involved either seperate thrust bearings (not entirely sure of that design) or flanged thrust bearings.
Of course, the failure was a lack of a sufficient oil film. Hence an inability to create a boundary between the two surfaces under load.
If anything, some more ideas to ponder upon. However, I keep coming back to the thought it might be related to fore/aft loads being beyond the spec allowed. I imagine that there was a clamping force "limit" so that given the thrust bearing surface, a sufficient oil film would be formed, and anything beyond that limit might jeopardize oil film integrity.
Last edited by OKcruising; 08-03-2008 at 10:43 PM.
98 Jade Mica Turbo - has devilish plans
The Street car:
07 Z06- Ron Fellows street cruiser, slow
The Race car:
04 Z06- Motons, PFC brakes, built LS7, 4 stage dry sump, etc. etc.
DSM's usualy just swap out the 7bolt motor for a 6 bolt to get rid of the crankwalk. Plus they are DSM's so we just throw on a MBC turn the boost to 24lbs and run a 12 then blow it up and drop in another 150 dollar motor.
6 bolt motors can crankwalk. did that my self. and i would also love to know who you buy your motors from for $150. I'll take 20
Gotta keep your eyes open for em. I just picked up 3 6bolts, a 7 bolt and a 4 bolt rear for 500.
I can only imagine the kind fo shape they are in
The one 6 bolt had the front mount ripped off of it because it was in a rally car. but the other 2 were in perfect shape and the internals of the first was good. He threw in the 7 bolt for free because they are worthless and it has less than 1k miles on it factory fresh from mitsu. Best part is with dsm's is I have never had one crankwalk because they dont last long enough with a 60-1 to even try.