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Thread: Crank Walk Documentation

  1. #76
    SupraForums Member turbochris700's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kahunaking View Post
    He threw in the 7 bolt for free because they are worthless

    1st gen 7 bolt motors are great. Once they re-designed the motors/oil passages from 1995+ that they really started to have issues. 92.5 to 1994 7 bolts with the solid girdles are very strong motors when taken care of.


    chris w
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  3. #77
    HighCompression+Boost=Win Sooco100pf's Avatar
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    RPS single disk ftl
    Last edited by Sooco100pf; 03-09-2009 at 03:44 PM.

  4. #78
    Overlooked bassjunkiens5's Avatar
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    My question. I'm a 7m guy so bear with me. What milage does this normally accure? Does it require the whole crank to be pulled to change the thrust washer or just one cap? How often does this happen (1 in x motors)?

    I'm thinking of the swap but I think a BHG is a bit easier (on the wallet too) than this.

    Thanks guys.

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  6. #79
    SupraForums Member spl's Avatar
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    Crank walk can occurr at any mileage. It's not rare to see it happen just after a rebuild..

    I'd say you need to pull the crank to change the upper part of the thrust washer.. I rebuilt my engine last winther and dropped the crank in place after putting the upper part of the washer in place. It might be possible to slid it by the crank but I'd say it is near to impossible.. anybody ever tried that?

    BHG is a lot easier! Damaged thrust washer is very cheap to replace but a lot of work. And if you notice it too late, there will be a lot of stuff to replace in the bottom end ...

  7. #80
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    So Im thinking to minimize risk, check or replace the oil squirrters with accurate and strong springs, disable the neutral start switch, and a pre oiler system like an accu sump.

  8. #81
    Old School Bruiser Rocket455's Avatar
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    I thought I'd ask a question here instead of issue a new thread.

    Being an ex-DSMer, I am familiar with crankwalk. My 7-bolt 4g63 walked at 120K miles (which is commendable...some people have had their cranks walk on them with barely 30K on the clock). However, my car was stock, and it has already been mentioned in this thread that 100% stock DSMs will crankwalk regardless. Those motors probably have the highest rate of crankwalk on any engine ever made (go Mitsu! lol)

    What I've gathered from this thread is the MK4s will crankwalk if the clutch is upgraded, or there are other modifications done to the car. I understand that basically any car can crankwalk, and I know what crankwalk is, but what are the odds of a 100% stock TT 6-speed Supra crankwalking?

  9. #82
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    I think that there is going to be wear occuring gradually during the lifetime of the engine. While this is normal, this wear can and will be accelerated by adding performance-enhancing parts onto the car. Taking this into consideration, I'd say that your question is relative to the length of time in which you own the car. If you have a 100% stock supra for a year, it won't be crankwalking on you. If you put 60k on it and drive it hard, you may get some walk.

    I have done a lot of research on crankwalk and I am currently in the process of rebuilding my Lexus engine. No welder recommends I tack weld the washers in, but someone did give me a good idea. Put a small brass drift in the face of the cap which will secure the washer from going anywhere. It's an idea....

    I'm just going to put the thrust washers in as per oem recommendations and hope for the best.

    Kellyn

    It's worth noting at this point our current solid defenses against the walk of death:

    1. Disable that mother****ing clutch switch
    2. Use a good, sticky, lubricant in the engine
    3. Don't shift past 9k.
    Last edited by Ki11bert; 02-06-2009 at 06:21 AM.

  10. #83

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    It's worth noting at this point our current solid defenses against the walk of death:

    1. Disable that mother****ing clutch switch
    2. Use a good, sticky, lubricant in the engine
    3. Don't shift past 9k.[/QUOTE]

    How about lucas oil stabilizer ?

    What advice can you give to people looking to buy a TT supra. Is there any signs you can look for?

    Popped my cherry

  11. #84
    Old School Bruiser Rocket455's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ki11bert View Post
    I think that there is going to be wear occuring gradually during the lifetime of the engine. While this is normal, this wear can and will be accelerated by adding performance-enhancing parts onto the car. Taking this into consideration, I'd say that your question is relative to the length of time in which you own the car. If you have a 100% stock supra for a year, it won't be crankwalking on you. If you put 60k on it and drive it hard, you may get some walk.

    I have done a lot of research on crankwalk and I am currently in the process of rebuilding my Lexus engine. No welder recommends I tack weld the washers in, but someone did give me a good idea. Put a small brass drift in the face of the cap which will secure the washer from going anywhere. It's an idea....

    I'm just going to put the thrust washers in as per oem recommendations and hope for the best.

    Kellyn

    It's worth noting at this point our current solid defenses against the walk of death:

    1. Disable that mother****ing clutch switch
    2. Use a good, sticky, lubricant in the engine
    3. Don't shift past 9k.
    Thanks, that's along the lines of what I thought, but interesting point on the brass drift idea, I'll certainly keep that in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by PartyPete View Post


    What advice can you give to people looking to buy a TT supra. Is there any signs you can look for?

    Popped my cherry
    Welcome to the forums, but you'll be better of searching for this info in the main MK4 forum (tons of threads on this topic).
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  12. #85
    Dr. Jeff Lange Jeff Lange's Avatar
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    It's definitely possible to get the thrust washers out without taking out the crank. You just need to remove the cap, and the top ones should be able to be spun out. I accidentally did it when I was assembling a bottom end once. I just pushed it back in, not a big deal.

    EDIT: As for using a thrust bearing unstead of thrust washers, Toyota used to use thrust bearings back before the mid-70's, around 73-74 is when they switched over. I bet they had a pretty good reason to do so, but I can definitely understand the advantage of not having the washers fall out when they fail, less damage overall I suppose.

    Jeff
    Last edited by Jeff Lange; 02-12-2009 at 02:18 AM.

  13. #86
    Looks best in drag Ki11bert's Avatar
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    Now that I have experienced catastrophic crank walk, I can now tell all the signs. The engine I just assembled for my Lexus IS300 Turbo is using a standard thrust washer configuration. I am not debating whether or not to buy a twin or triple disc clutch.

    Kill

  14. #87

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    is your built engine a 2jz ge or a gte? wondering if the squirters had anything to do with it.

    would a heavier rotating mass eg stock flywheel have less movement meaning less overall pressure or wear on the thrusts?

    also as people seem to increase the rev range to match the cams is the thurst bearing really up to the increased axial play from the increased speed? i know on the hks or jun built blocks(cant remember which one) they use factory mains and b/e bearings but thrust washer is not stated.

    looks like the only other way around this problem is a pre oiling system or electric pump.

    one more thought. is it possible to get the thrust bearings coated in teflon or other coating to minimise interference on start up?

  15. #88
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    If my JDM 2j has any more then minimum endplay ill just throw in new thrusts as good preventative maintenance.

  16. #89
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    disabling my clutch switch asap

  17. #90
    SupraForums Member audi2nr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr75 View Post
    is your built engine a 2jz ge or a gte? wondering if the squirters had anything to do with it.

    would a heavier rotating mass eg stock flywheel have less movement meaning less overall pressure or wear on the thrusts?

    also as people seem to increase the rev range to match the cams is the thurst bearing really up to the increased axial play from the increased speed? i know on the hks or jun built blocks(cant remember which one) they use factory mains and b/e bearings but thrust washer is not stated.

    looks like the only other way around this problem is a pre oiling system or electric pump.

    one more thought. is it possible to get the thrust bearings coated in teflon or other coating to minimise interference on start up?
    i like the idea of coating the bearings maybe something like the coating on pistons. but now that im thoroughly scared by this thread lol! i will be buying and installing an oil accumulator in my car, they are actually not that expensive. i like the fact that they can be used pre startup and if oil pressure drops at anytime during operation.

  18. #91
    SupraForums Member audi2nr's Avatar
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    well, just had a few beers, i'm not scared anymore, still gettin the accumulator though

  19. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by audi2nr View Post
    well, just had a few beers, i'm not scared anymore, still gettin the accumulator though
    I've got an Accumulator. One of the best things you can buy for an oil system besides going dry sump

  20. #93
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    Just curious. anyone here thats had Crankwalk. Were you using an Undampened light weight crank pulley when it failed ??

  21. #94

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    are there any pictures that we can look at this, like a picture of a switch and were does it goes and were do you guys disable or remove it to?

    Thanks! !

  22. #95
    Fabatini is in the house! antoniosz32's Avatar
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    Guys another victim here!!! car was fine never had a problem then one day it wouldn't start. I kept cranking for almost 45 minutes to get it started. Finally got it started went to do a pull and next thing I know @160mph I have oil coming through the vents on my TS hood. Pop the hood see my timing belt(no covers) soaked in oil. Drove the car home took off the plate on my tranny, stuck a prybar in my clutch and could move everything back and fourth. I was using a rps 6puck with a blue pressure plate.

  23. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by TooJayZee View Post
    Im still lost. Doesnt the switch just disable the starter ? so if its left in gear and you turn it over it doesnt run into something ?
    So regardless of the switch being on or off, the motor is still turning over
    Actually this clutch switch is pretty much a "KILL SWITCH" when the clutch pedal is pressed the circuit is complete meaning the electricity is now going to the starter! It has nothing to do with the starter it self! This switch was created so that noobs that have seen "FAST AND FURIOUS" too many times and now want a manual transmission car dont crank the engine in 1st gear.... resulting in hitting the object in front of them! Is it clear now

  24. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ki11bert View Post
    I am documenting my crank walk experience for you guys. I also have questions for you at the end of this thread.

    v160
    ACT Xtreme
    GTE Bottom End

    Occured after about two years of driving with this clutch. I tried to get it off the road in time but the last mile home was terrible. I also did not disable the clutch switch like I should have. Boy am I paying for that mistake..






    My questions:
    1. Aside from the damage to the block in picture two, there isn't much other visible damage to the block. The face of a few mains look a tad banged up. What should I be looking for also on the block? Will an experienced machine shop be able to give me an answer by visually inspecting the block and caps?
    2. The crank is a major concern. It's very hard to see any damage on the journals of the crank, but there has to be some. When should I consider replacing it instead of having it fixed?
    3. I noticed the rod bearings are a matte light blue. Is this normal or have I experienced actual bluing? The back of the bearings look normal.
    4. There were shavings in the pickup. Can I clean it out sufficiently or do I need a new one?
    5. After something like this, how trustworthy is even a well-fixed block? I spin this motor to 8600rpms.

    I hope we can build on this thread.

    Kill

    Let me tell you what I have heard! Im currently going to school to be a mechanic on force induction cars! I was told that if a bearing such as main bearing or any bearing that uses oil to lubricate has become blue..its due to little or no oil resulting in overheating!

    And about your block I would recommend you getting a new one and replacing the crank shaft too! I have see this happen to a friend of mine that got a crank walk similar to this one! He had the block and crank taken to a machine shop! After assembling the engine even with the clutch switch unplugged....maybe not even 200 mile he spun the main bearing!

  25. #98
    Cheifbootknocka TooJayZee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MKIV4LIFE View Post
    Actually this clutch switch is pretty much a "KILL SWITCH" when the clutch pedal is pressed the circuit is complete meaning the electricity is now going to the starter! It has nothing to do with the starter it self! This switch was created so that noobs that have seen "FAST AND FURIOUS" too many times and now want a manual transmission car dont crank the engine in 1st gear.... resulting in hitting the object in front of them! Is it clear now
    Thanks for the response, though im sure your aware thats not what this thread is about. If you read the thread you would know that my question was answered 3 years ago.

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  26. #99

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    So can we just cut the wire and reroute it to some other positive wire to it has current all the time thru , or thats not the way to do it ? Is there a way to do it on starter?
    Thanks !!

  27. #100
    Now...Whitesupra94
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGLOU911 View Post
    So can we just cut the wire and reroute it to some other positive wire to it has current all the time thru , or thats not the way to do it ? Is there a way to do it on starter?
    Thanks !!
    I wired mine to a hidden switch. When I want to start the car, I flip the switch, start the car, and flip the switch back to off. If anyone tries to steal my car, they will be very confused why it doesn't start.

    All I did was unplug the connector and run a wire to and from the switch. if you wanted the connection open all the time, just loop a wire from one side of the initial plug to the other.

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