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Thread: Clutch for 700-900rwhp?

  1. #51
    (overspooled) Morefaster's Avatar
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    never heard of competition clutches do they make anything for the JZA80?

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  3. #52
    Fun-Sized A80Girl's Avatar
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    Ken, thank you so much for your input. So far, the OS Giken seems to be appealing to me the more I read about it...or rather the more you elaborate on it. How slippable is it? On a scale of 1-10 (1 being lightest, 10 being heaviest) how would you rate the pedal pressure compared to stock? Stock being a 1, of course. I don't plan on making over 900hp so I would assume the triple plate would be fine for me. However I'm a weakling and definitely dont want to wear myself out with a stiff pedal pressure or look like a newb whilst trying to slip it out and end up jerking like crazy lol.
    Leb @ Boost Lab, Inc.

    95 | RSP | 6spd | S366 | AEM EMS | HKS 272s

  4. #53
    Hardtopper KirkMKIV's Avatar
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    Good chart that I found on HPF's website
    Kirk - 95 Hardtop
    BL375R, AEM V2, Hypertune, HKS 272, FIC2150


    EMAIL ME, KIRK(AT)THEBOOSTLAB.COM

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  6. #54
    SupraForums Member damianhindley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorriso View Post
    I have nothing good to say about HPF Feramic. And everybody that has driven my car has the same feeling. Not fun at all.
    You have people drive your car, Haha. I bet my buds money they cant drive my car, they stall the shit out of it. It is very hard to drive with this clutch, but it does hold up good. Im about to do a 1800mile drive from nc to co with mine, wish me luck. Im all about the other brand but damn the prices are so up there, oh well time to cough up some money.
    1994 Red TT

  7. #55
    Hardtopper KirkMKIV's Avatar
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    Are the HPF Bronze clutches anything like the HPF Feramic?

    I am leaning towards the HPF Bronze disks but now comes the decision on pressure plate. I am torn between the ACT and RPS pressure plates.... aren't the ACT pressure plates blamed for some of the crank walk issues? I feel like there is no need to go after a multiple disk clutch and sacrifice driveability when my power goals are nowhere near their limit. I would be making too many sacrifices on my driveability for no reason IMO. There is alot of great info on this thread so far!

  8. #56

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    I was doing some research in the past on clutches and found there are many factors to consider when choosing. The vehicle weight. How the vehicle will be used. Drive line parts weight. Fly wheel weight. How far the distance of mass is from the centerline. Tire size and wheel weight, etc...

    I would like to see a comparision between the OS Giken quad vs the Carbonetic triple.

    Ken put up some awesome information, thanks. I was considering the Triple Carbonetic after talking with Josh, The Quickness. He said that it was very slippable and was just soooo nice for daily driving with the only trade off being, the noise. It held the power 700 whp and was given some abuse. When he took it apart it looked like there was very minimal wear. Not even broken in yet. Another factor was price. If I remember correctly he sells it for $2800 but I would check with him on that. Maybe people could post some prices for the different setups.

    I went with a Comp for now due to noise and price. If it doesn't hold up I will need to upgrade.

    I have read that the Tiltons did not last long and that they were expensive to rebuild. Maybe some people could post milage with their Tilton's and how they were used/abused. Thanks.

  9. #57
    (overspooled) Morefaster's Avatar
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    In general, It sounds to me like as bad ass as the tilton is...it's high maintenance.
    It seems like you need to inspect it fairly regularly. PITA....for a DD, it just doesn't seem to make sense...I have heard that they are excellent for drag use....

    For the OP, I'd steer clear of the solid single disk cluthes...They are to me, a love hate relationship....I loved to hate it . I have heard some people that were happy with them...I was at one time until I knew better...not to say I wouldn't try one again

    Just about any of the triple disks are going to be ok. for 900hp (especially if you are launching) you are hancuffing yourself to a few choices by vitue of power.

    RPS triple carbon is supposed to be a nice piece it uses a straples design pp. The modified stock units that were in the twin were a cause for failure.

    The OS Giken Quad sounds nice, never driven one but it sounds like it would be very capable...

    I would recommend the blitz twin active that I recently installed if you were wanting to run 700rwhp or less, but I haven't known anyone to put 900 through one. They say they are good for 800, but that seems like it would be pushing it to me. The Blitz clutches are known for drivability and longevity they are however not a drag setup. From Ken's comments I will probably try one of the OS Giken clutches on my next car..I'd probably start with a triple although I am very happy under 700rwhp and the twin would probably suffice....

  10. #58
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    HKS GD Pro Triple Disk for 1993-98 Supra Twin Turbo
    Part # HK 2604-RT005
    This kit includes a pressure plate, 3 discs, lightened flywheel, and throw out bearing. This clutch is rated to hold 1000RWHP. Pedal pressure is lighter than stock, but it is not slippable nor daily driveable on the street. There are definitely better alternatives than this clutch!

    I know first hand that the HKS Triple Disc cannot be driven on the street. Its not to bad unless you are on a slope! Definitely not daily driveable though. I had it for 500 miles before i switched out!
    97 Supra TT

  11. #59
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    I have the OS giken triple right now. Pedal pressure is about medium heavy. A lot of people who tried out the clutch commended on how soon the clutch engages off the floor. It starts to engage maybe about 10-15mm off the floor. The engagement is alright. Definitely not an on/off switch as you get about over an inch of engagement.
    The engagement is short and sweet, like how an racing clutch should be.

    I say go look into getting a multi disk clutch. I consider going from the single disk ACT heavy duty to the Giken triple one of the best upgrades to my supra. Not only did I get lighter pedal pressure and better engagement, the engine also revs noticeable faster. Plus multi-disk clutches last a lot longer than aggressive single disks just. I have about over 25k on the triple and each disk still has ~ 3.75mm lining. Brand new OS giken comes with 4mm lining and needed to be replaced when it reaches 3mm.

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    im using the os giken twin plate 800 to1000hp rated been daily driving for the past 3 years on standard twins had the clutch out when doing complete engine and turbo rebuild the clutch had hardly any wear at all looked brand new! the pedal feel is heavy bout 8 out of 10, it is slippable only ever so slightly but when it grabs IT GRABS, the only thing is its a little noisy/ chattery when idling. it did take a few days to get use to it specially hill starts most of the time it would wheel spin!

  13. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbaity1401 View Post
    I know first hand that the HKS Triple Disc cannot be driven on the street. Its not to bad unless you are on a slope! Definitely not daily driveable though. I had it for 500 miles before i switched out!
    In all honesty that short of experience is just breaking in the clutch. LOL If HKS has a "Patient Driver" mod for this clutch this would be flying off the shelves.

    I'd say, I actually daily drove the HKS triple for a good 3 years and wouldn't mind using it for daily but that's because I've learned how to drive the clutch. That's without the slave cylinder mod experience, and with. To drive this clutch, getting the hang of it requires a lot of patience, it's like learning how drive with a clutch all over again. So I understand it's not for everybody.

    Recently, another friend and I were comparing the pedal pressure for the OS Giken triple disc to my HKS triple, the OS Giken is definitely noticeably heavier. Unforunately we didn't have a stock clutch at hand to compare as well. The pedal pressure is night and day, but I think I can safely say the OS Giken may get used to be driven easier than the HKS triple. The engagement is closer to the floor for the OS Giken as opposed to the HKS where the engagement is very high up the pedal. I'm going to assume finding the engagement is easier with the ankles and heels as opposed to using your leg, but both doable.
    Last edited by 8Wasabe; 08-01-2008 at 06:40 AM.

  14. #62
    Fun-Sized A80Girl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pioww View Post
    I have read that the Tiltons did not last long and that they were expensive to rebuild. Maybe some people could post milage with their Tilton's and how they were used/abused. Thanks.
    That seems to be the repercussions of improper installation.

    Quote Originally Posted by marcus1 View Post
    im using the os giken twin plate 800 to1000hp rated been daily driving for the past 3 years on standard twins had the clutch out when doing complete engine and turbo rebuild the clutch had hardly any wear at all looked brand new! the pedal feel is heavy bout 8 out of 10, it is slippable only ever so slightly but when it grabs IT GRABS, the only thing is its a little noisy/ chattery when idling. it did take a few days to get use to it specially hill starts most of the time it would wheel spin!

    Thank you for elaborating on the OS Giken. I'll keep following the thread and researching to figure out what's best for me.

  15. #63
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    I've had carbonetics, RPS C/C, HPF Feramic, Tilton and a few others..

    I would NEVER get the carbonetics again. Once it goes the cost to rebuild is so high, you are better off ordering a new clutch. However, it did hold 800+rwhp for a few years. Didn't really seem to like going to the drag strip though.

    RPS C/C - I've had two of them. Both failed on me. RPS will stand behind their product, but it took forever and how many horror storys have we all read about them here on SF. I wouldn't put one in my supra if you gave it to me for free.

    HPF feramic - This is the one I'd rec. for you. It worked well when I made 900rwhp. I daily drove it for 4 months like this always with c16 30+psi of boost. Then I started to spray a 100shot. That held a little bit on the street, but when I took it to the drag strip w/ 100shot the clutch fagged out on me.

    Tilton - Still have it. Worked awesome. Loves to be driven hard. Doesn't like to stop and go and doesn't like to be slipped from a start. Pedal pressure feels like a honda. Has held GT47-88 40psi + 225shot.

    -Clark

  16. #64
    SupraForums Member T_Terror's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Projectmk4>R1 View Post

    HPF feramic - This is the one I'd rec. for you. It worked well when I made 900rwhp. I daily drove it for 4 months like this always with c16 30+psi of boost. Then I started to spray a 100shot. That held a little bit on the street, but when I took it to the drag strip w/ 100shot the clutch fagged out on me.

    Tilton - Still have it. Worked awesome. Loves to be driven hard. Doesn't like to stop and go and doesn't like to be slipped from a start. Pedal pressure feels like a honda. Has held GT47-88 40psi + 225shot.

    -Clark

    Thats funny, those Tilton characteristics with the poor stop-go and take off performance is exactly what my biggest complaint with the HPF feramic is.


    In its defence, I could drive it almost like stock after a few days practise, but when I first got it I REALLY hated driving the sup around, made me feel like I was 15 and learning to drive stick all over again.
    At least I know noone will ever be able to steal my car cause they wont be able to drive it ha!


    I guess youll have to face some tradeoffs when youre trying to push a megawatt from your motor through to your wheels!

  17. #65
    SupraForums Member motorheaddown's Avatar
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    FWIW, I recently swapped out my USDM 6-speed rear end for a JDM rear end, and it made the Tilton much easier to drive especially because I have an sc300 (3820 lbs with me in it).

    Just a simple gearing change from 3.13 to 3.26 made a significant difference in driveability. Plus, the gearing change gave more usable mph on the highway for driving slower in 6th gear. I also expect it to improve my launches and provide better use of 4th gear at the top end of the track for drag racing.

    -scott
    '97 sc300 T71GTS 6-speed direct port nitrous
    914whp/900ft-lbs @ 35psi/150 shot on E85
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4JXVB1P7chI

  18. #66
    SupraForums Member MATON's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Projectmk4>R1 View Post
    I've had carbonetics, RPS C/C, HPF Feramic, Tilton and a few others..

    I would NEVER get the carbonetics again. Once it goes the cost to rebuild is so high, you are better off ordering a new clutch. However, it did hold 800+rwhp for a few years. Didn't really seem to like going to the drag strip though.

    RPS C/C - I've had two of them. Both failed on me. RPS will stand behind their product, but it took forever and how many horror storys have we all read about them here on SF. I wouldn't put one in my supra if you gave it to me for free.

    HPF feramic - This is the one I'd rec. for you. It worked well when I made 900rwhp. I daily drove it for 4 months like this always with c16 30+psi of boost. Then I started to spray a 100shot. That held a little bit on the street, but when I took it to the drag strip w/ 100shot the clutch fagged out on me.

    Tilton - Still have it. Worked awesome. Loves to be driven hard. Doesn't like to stop and go and doesn't like to be slipped from a start. Pedal pressure feels like a honda. Has held GT47-88 40psi + 225shot.

    -Clark
    So you would recommend the HPF feramic , for around 700hp. Thinking about getting this one for my car, making 545hp right now, want to up the boost to around 650hp

  19. #67
    Now...Whitesupra94
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    Quote Originally Posted by T_Terror View Post
    Thats funny, those Tilton characteristics with the poor stop-go and take off performance is exactly what my biggest complaint with the HPF feramic is.


    In its defence, I could drive it almost like stock after a few days practise, but when I first got it I REALLY hated driving the sup around, made me feel like I was 15 and learning to drive stick all over again.
    At least I know noone will ever be able to steal my car cause they wont be able to drive it ha!


    I guess youll have to face some tradeoffs when youre trying to push a megawatt from your motor through to your wheels!
    1.21 Jiggawatts to be exact. 1985 here we come!!

    +1 on the few days practice. When I first bought my car, I had NO idea how I was going to make it all the way home.

    +1 again on no one being able to steal it either though. I'm pretty sure they'd give up.

    FWIW, the ACT HD PP is probably the heaviest one there is. If you havn't already, do the clutch kill switch mod so you can start the car w/o pushing in the clutch. that much pressure on a thrust washer with no oil on it isnt a good combo.

    Between my hidden clutch kill switch, and the clutch combination, I really think I could leave my car unlocked with the key in it and no one would have any clue how the hell to steal the car....unless they have a flatbed.

  20. #68
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    I should have been more clear about the tilton. IMO thats what causes wear on it. Stop and go and slipping the clutch. I also tried NEVER to floor it when rpms were real low. I'd wait until rpms were up high and then get on it.

    I wasn't saying it was hard to drive. IMO it's a super easy clutch to drive, as I'd let me GF drive it sometimes and she mastered it pretty quickly.

    If you do go w/ the Tilton, I'd rec. replacing your master cylinder. I've seen people go a lot longer b/w replacing the plates with new master cylinders.

    But this is just my opinion from what I've seen...

    Yeah I would rec. the HPF Fer. @ 700rwhp. I'd take it real easy at the drag strip, but for street driving it should do a great job holding the power.

  21. #69
    Now...Whitesupra94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Projectmk4>R1 View Post
    I I'd take it real easy at the drag strip, but for street driving it should do a great job holding the power.

    why? fusing?

    I slipped mine from ~4krpms slowly (too slowly actually, got a bad launch) and I never had any fusing issues.
    Last edited by BlackSupra93; 08-01-2008 at 09:56 AM.

  22. #70
    SupraForums Member MATON's Avatar
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    Why easy at the strip?? This is what they are advertising;

    There are now several 9 second cars running with this clutch. It is lasting roughly 45-50 passes at the 9 second mark. With just normal driving and dyno pulls it has passed the 20,000 mile mark as well.


    but than again advertising is a different ball game than the real thing

  23. #71
    Fun-Sized A80Girl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNUTZ View Post
    Why easy at the strip?? This is what they are advertising;

    There are now several 9 second cars running with this clutch. It is lasting roughly 45-50 passes at the 9 second mark. With just normal driving and dyno pulls it has passed the 20,000 mile mark as well.


    but than again advertising is a different ball game than the real thing
    I was just about to say the same thing. They are advertising it as being extremely versatile and able to withstand quite a beating.

  24. #72
    SupraForums Member Snacks's Avatar
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    Great thread BTW. I appreciate all the real world input everyone has given and I really wish an in depth thread on clutches like this one would have been available before I chose my RPS CC.

    Back on topic...I'm glad I'm hearing everyone's experiences with the RPS carbon carbon to be very similar to mine. Before I made the choice on going with this clutch, the RPS CC seemed like the only option at the time for a high horsepower/high abuse application. Everyone would claim how it has a "very stock petal feel" and how it "drives like stock". In reality, this is NOT how it feels or drives. The pedal is significantly stiffer than stock and it DOES NOT drive like stock. Other than the harsh on/off engagement in 1st gear, I love the RPS CC. It's held over 800rwhp, up shifting and down shifting from 2nd - 6th is a breeze and for me at least doesn't make any noise at idle (1000rpm). But as everyone has said, it's embarrassing when trying to take off in the damn thing. Regardless if I rev it up to 3K rpms and slip it, the car will bucks and shake like I'm learning how to drive again.

    To everyone with an RPS CC, have you noticed that when in reverse, engagement is not a problem at all? If I could get the car to move out in first gear like it moves in reverse, I would have no complaints about this clutch.
    Last edited by Snacks; 08-01-2008 at 10:27 AM.

    Sold - 1997 Jewel Green 6 Speed - 835rwhp

  25. #73
    Hawtness Smokey1226's Avatar
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    Im curious, with all of the Tilton talk, are they talking about the Quad Disk or triple disk? I would hate to have a car that was a biotch to drive around town, but then again a clutch that would slip over 825hp would be useless.

  26. #74
    Hardtopper KirkMKIV's Avatar
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    What Pressure Plates are you guys running that have the HPF bronze clutch kits? I am wanting to place my order asap but I want to make sure I don't change my mind after I put the order in

    Kirk

  27. #75
    Fun-Sized A80Girl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snacks View Post
    Great thread BTW. I appreciate all the real world input everyone has given and I really wish an in depth thread on clutches like this one would have been available before I chose my RPS CC.

    Back on topic...I'm glad I'm hearing everyone's experiences with the RPS carbon carbon to be very similar to mine. Before I made the choice on going with this clutch, the RPS CC seemed like the only option at the time for a high horsepower/high abuse application. Everyone would claim how it has a "very stock petal feel" and how it "drives like stock". In reality, this is NOT how it feels or drives. The pedal is significantly stiffer than stock and it DOES NOT drive like stock. Other than the harsh on/off engagement in 1st gear, I love the RPS CC. It's held over 800rwhp, up shifting and down shifting from 2nd - 6th is a breeze and for me at least doesn't make any noise at idle (1000rpm). But as everyone has said, it's embarrassing when trying to take off in the damn thing. Regardless if I rev it up to 3K rpms and slip it, the car will bucks and shake like I'm learning how to drive again.

    To everyone with an RPS CC, have you noticed that when in reverse, engagement is not a problem at all? If I could get the car to move out in first gear like it moves in reverse, I would have no complaints about this clutch.
    The RPS CC was my very first choice prior to hearing all those horror stories, however even after your and others good reviews, I still don't want to go with it. I would be way too nervous...it would be like a ticking time bomb imo.
    Last edited by A80Girl; 08-01-2008 at 02:06 PM.

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