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Thread: gauges, WB, made EASY! Writeup included

  1. #26
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravan17 View Post
    whats the best place to get the wires from??


    and is add-a-fuse only available online or do local stores have it also? radioshack doesnt seem to carry them.

    Brian, i should be getting this done as soon as i can get all the parts purchased, mainly the wires and add-a-fuse, the relay and terminal should be at the local radioshack. im going to make one strip for the power supply, and one for the ground, now, for the grounding strip, you set it up the same exact way right? with a relay and add-a-fuse?


    oh, and does it matter which 5amp fuse you put the add a fuse in? or does it just have to be 5 amps?
    Its all available at your local parts store(autozone, advance, etc..)
    and no, doesnt have to be a 5amp fuse, but as a rule(of mine) I usually dont go over 10amps, due to I know know clue how much amperage the casing of the add-a-fuse is rated for. Look in the electrical section of your parts store for all the parts, the relay MIGHT be in the section with the foglights
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  3. #27
    2JZ NA-T
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    Cool Brian thanks. Im gona go try to pic those up right now. Its raining like CRAZY over here today so i wont get to flush the coolant but i will start rewiring this so i can atleast get the WB gauge going.

    do i power the fuel pump off of here to, or run its own relay to the back??

  4. #28
    2JZ NA-T
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    Nvm, i figured out what you were saying. Set up the fuel pump the same exact way, but instead of runing pin 87 to the strip, run it to the positive on the fuel pump.

    thanks

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  6. #29
    2JZ NA-T
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    ok, another question about the fuel pump, lol.

    i run the wire power wire from the relay to the wire on the fuel computer in the side panel in the hatch rigth? or do i run it to the actual fuel pump?

    and also, do i have to use another add a fuse or can i just split the signal that is running to the terminal for the gauges?

  7. #30
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    I pull strait from the batterys for the pumps, but use the same distribution block as the trigger

  8. #31
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    Awesome info!!! During all of my attempted engine swaps I was thinking of "making" something like this... Where there'd always be a pigtail hanging out, waiting for something to connect to.

    I've done it with the ground, using one of those 4-wires to 1-terminal pieces off of an old harness, but this is PERFECT. Place it behind the radio bezel somewhere where everything can reach it...

    I guess U could take it a step further and have one for the ACC key position and the other for the "On."

    Good stuff, thanks for putting it out there!!

  9. #32
    LoveHz supra_natural's Avatar
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    this should be a sticky... i know a supra owner who bought a VERY known supra that was seen in a certain commercial... the car had some very bad wiring going on...

  10. #33
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    Okay, followed this to the letter and my WB gauge remains powered/lit even after the key is pulled from the ignition. Utilizing a 30amp 12v relay wired to the specified terminals, grounded to the ECU ground point and the add a fuse is in the dome light fuse location. I may try swapping the constant and switched terminals to see if on this relay they are different but they are marked with the same numbers as the write up. Any ideas?

  11. #34
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    GoFastTSI. For some reason, as of late, some manufactures have switched the constant hot and the trigger for some damn reason. A quick way to rule this out would be to pull the pin from the constant hot and listen/feel for the relay to click. This would mean that terminal is acting as the switch instead of the constant hot. This also means that you are running your wideband with much smaller wire than you should(IMO).
    Pretty sure this is what is going on, but if not keep pulling pins until it clicks(opens the circuit) and the WB turns off. Honestly, the best way to do this writeup is not to go by the numbers, but to go by pinout diagrams on the particular relay itself.

  12. #35
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ravan17 View Post
    im going to make one strip for the power supply, and one for the ground, now, for the grounding strip, you set it up the same exact way right? with a relay and add-a-fuse?
    You don't need (or want) a relay or fuse on the ground side.
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  13. #36
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    slither,

    Nice write-up!

    One suggestion: instead of making 7 "jumper" wires for the terminal block, pic up an "8-Position Jumper" strip (Model 274-650, $2.19) while you're at Radio Shack. Much neater and more reliable.

  14. #37
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitshftr View Post
    slither,

    Nice write-up!

    One suggestion: instead of making 7 "jumper" wires for the terminal block, pic up an "8-Position Jumper" strip (Model 274-650, $2.19) while you're at Radio Shack. Much neater and more reliable.
    Thats a great idea. I didnt realize any of those were readily available at a location that almost everywhere has.

  15. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by slither View Post
    GoFastTSI. For some reason, as of late, some manufactures have switched the constant hot and the trigger for some damn reason. A quick way to rule this out would be to pull the pin from the constant hot and listen/feel for the relay to click. This would mean that terminal is acting as the switch instead of the constant hot. This also means that you are running your wideband with much smaller wire than you should(IMO).
    Pretty sure this is what is going on, but if not keep pulling pins until it clicks(opens the circuit) and the WB turns off. Honestly, the best way to do this writeup is not to go by the numbers, but to go by pinout diagrams on the particular relay itself.
    Yeah, I would have followed a pin out diagram had the craptastical relay I bought at Autozone come with one. It was numbered but there was no legend for the numbering. Hence why I followed your well written mock up. I may stop by Radio Shack again and buy a more quality piece.
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  16. #39
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    Just reviewing this thread, sorry for the 5 month bump. I was looking in my fuse box and there are no 5 amp fuses, smallest is 7.5, 15, 25. Not counting the larger fuses. Or am I reading these wrong? I like the idea of this but don't want to bugger anything up.

    Edit: I've been looking in the engine fuse box. I've yet to check out the interior fuse kick panel. Is that what the OP is referring too?

    Second Edit: Just check the interior fuse panel, also no 5 amp fuses, same as in the engine one, 7.5, 10 and so on.
    Last edited by 94Canuck; 01-20-2010 at 06:23 PM.

  17. #40
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 94Canuck View Post
    I was looking in my fuse box and there are no 5 amp fuses, smallest is 7.5, 15, 25. Not counting the larger fuses.
    You are correct...according to the wiring diagram (electrical manual), there aren't any 5 amp fuses anywhere in an MkIV.

  18. #41
    Over Medicated kbprice's Avatar
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    Ok here is the 10 month bump with a question. I installed my block this week and it works great. The issue I'm having is when I shut the car off and the turbo timer counts down I guess I chose a fuse that doesn't get power when the car is cooling down because all my add on gauges turn off. So my question is what fuse did everybody pull to put the Add a Fuse in. I mounted everything in the kick panel on the driver side and used the cigerette lighter fuse as my trigger.

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  19. #42
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kbprice View Post
    So my question is what fuse did everybody pull to put the Add a Fuse in. I mounted everything in the kick panel on the driver side and used the cigerette lighter fuse as my trigger.
    I haven't done this, but according to the wiring diagram, the only add-a-fuse compatible fuses in the driver's side kick panel fuse box are:

    STOP 15a
    or
    ECU-B 10a

    The 30a DOOR fuse and 30a DEFOG fuse circuits would be good candidates if you lost the add-a-fuse and tapped in using a different method.

  20. #43
    SupraForums Member kane93tt's Avatar
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    I did a variattion of this power distribution, I used a fuse distribution box, one input from the relay to 5 fuse socket, all molded inso a nice plastic case to fix it. you choose the fuse size and connect aditionnal circuits here.

    I installed it at the center of the Supra just at front of the ashtray (under the plastic cover than need to be popped off. Also installed my alarm brain, tilt sensor, shock sensor and alot of wiring here, neat place and easy to work on, just put in 3 gear, remove ash tray, release hand brake, grap trim panel by the ash tray hole and pop out !

    Nice write up

  21. #44
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    Sorry for raising an old thread, but seemed appropriate to remain in this thread. Question: how does different gauge wires affect all this? I currently have 18 gauge wire sitting around and not sure how the different gauges would contribute to the wiring.

  22. #45
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shenofjo View Post
    Question: how does different gauge wires affect all this? I currently have 18 gauge wire sitting around and not sure how the different gauges would contribute to the wiring.
    18 gauge would be fine for running to an individual accessory (depending on its amp draw). The "main" wire from Slither's writeup, which goes from the battery to the relay, and from the relay to the terminal strip, should be much lower gauge (thicker wire). Check wikipedia for the recommended amps for each gauge wire.

  23. #46
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    So which kick panel fuse did people use for ignition on power then?

  24. #47
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Not a huge deal as to which, just make sure it doesn't have 12any with the key in the off position

  25. #48
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    Im trying to set this up properly. Currently, i have all the wires ready to connect to the relay with the terminals, and my 12 gated strip is in series for power on one end and ground on the other. Now i need to figure where a good ground is. my main accessory is the innovate WB, and plan to data log it to my emanage blue. EMB unit is grounded to the ECU ground, and I want to make sure my innovate is grounded to the same type of ground to not have a differential and cause the reading between EMB and WB to be off. does that make sense that I should be worried about this, or am it just talking out of my ass?
    Last edited by shenofjo; 05-10-2012 at 05:37 PM. Reason: resolved previous question

  26. #49
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shenofjo View Post
    Im trying to set this up properly. Currently, i have all the wires ready to connect to the relay with the terminals, and my 12 gated strip is in series for power on one end and ground on the other. Now i need to figure where a good ground is. my main accessory is the innovate WB, and plan to data log it to my emanage blue. EMB unit is grounded to the ECU ground, and I want to make sure my innovate is grounded to the same type of ground to not have a differential and cause the reading between EMB and WB to be off. does that make sense that I should be worried about this, or am it just talking out of my ass?
    If im reading correctly you have a short to ground. DO NOT ground the terminal strip for the power wires. Only ground the ground strip(if used). Use a factory ground

  27. #50
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    I kinda knew i shoulda put it in my previous statements. my power terminals are in series and my ground terminals are also in series on the same strip, BUT they are not connected in. its just that I have 12 terminals, so i decided to have first 3 in series for power and last 3 in series for ground. again, power and ground are not connected on the strip itself.

    My question is where to ground my ground terminals to, as i want to make sure it is the same ground as ECU ground, so that the signal from my WB will not have any offset to the EMB.

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