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Thread: gauges, WB, made EASY! Writeup included

  1. #51
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Just ground using the factory grounding points. Works for me many times
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  3. #52
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    Just wanted to thank Slither for the help! I have finally gotten enough knowledge and equipment to install this set up. And my first accessory install took me 5 minutes to set up.. and that included the wire cutting and terminal crimping time.

    Just a few follow up questions, the relay was starting to get warm and I am assuming that its normal? Also, I need to insulate the terminal connections to the relay... does electrical tape work? Finally, I want to install a switch to be able to turn off the wideband display for stealth look, do I install that in series to the ground wire or the switched 12v?

  4. #53
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    I use insulated terminals, however electrical tape will work or shrink tubing. As for turning off the wb display, either will be fine. Make sure its turning off just the display and not the wb controller though

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  6. #54
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shenofjo View Post
    Also, I need to insulate the terminal connections to the relay... does electrical tape work?
    +1 for heat shrink tubing. It works great, leaves no sticky residue, and makes a more refined-looking result.
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    1995 Supra TT, BPU+, Baltic Blue, targa, TRD front/Cusco rear strut tower bars, 98 headlights w/ 6k HIDs, 97+ front turns, BNR turbos, Tial BOV, HKS Super Drager exhaust, SSR Professor SP1 wheels, Racelogic TC, VPC/GCC
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  7. #55
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    I had forgotten about this thread, but remembered the concept, and just used it when wiring some accessories into my "new" Supra (TT). The install is very clean. I tapped into the empty Seat Heater fuse slot (driver's side kickpanel fuse box) for power when the ignition is ON, using a male "flag" quick-disconnect terminal and 12-gauge wire.

  8. #56
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    im thankful for this resurrection. Good info. Ill definitely be making use of these bars.

  9. #57
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Instead of the terminal strip, I used CageClamps (see pic below) on my last wiring job. They're extremely simple to use, small, and don't expose any metal conducting material.
    CageClamp.jpg

  10. #58
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Bitsftr. Are they available at regular stores or only offered online?
    You can get as creative as you want, this writeup made it very simple to understand how to make your own circuit. You can get as crazy as you want.
    For example, for a customers car, a shop had done a ridiculously disgusting wiring job. When I rewired everything, I used kickass electronic tech approach using ferrels($3 each),quick disconnect "field connectors using pimped out hks purple can cable.
    My point is, for some this will be there first built circuit, when you understand the principal, go crazy with it! A lot of wiring issues comes from not knowing, if this writeup has helped wire up a mkiv correctly when otherwise it would have been done wrong, then goal accomplished

  11. #59
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slither View Post
    Bitsftr. Are they available at regular stores or only offered online?
    Search Amazon for "Wago 222" and you'll see a bunch of sizes.

    Slither, this thread should be required reading for anyone thinking about doing any wiring in their car. Like you said, the principal is sound, whether you use a terminal block or "Wago 222" cage clamps. I used terminal blocks on my 4Runner, and the cage clamps on my new Supra. I hate to see a hack job of wiring. Just today, I was removing some stuff from my new Supra and found several vampire taps (hate them...PosiTaps are much cleaner), but the worst part was where someone had stripped off some OEM wire insulation, spread the copper wires, inserted a non-native wire, and just twisted it and covered it with electrical tape. I almost barfed.

  12. #60
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Haha got ya beat. How about a customers car that was built by a shop using speaker wire for fuel pumps lol

  13. #61
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slither View Post
    speaker wire for fuel pumps
    You win.

    Here's another I found this weekend: one of the previous owners removed the stock sub box. To do it, they cut the two wires that run thru the subbox, thru the bottom of the car, to the wheel hubs (I'm guessing these are the wheel speed sensors for the ABS). If that wasn't bad enough, they then spliced them back (they did solder them at least) and wrapped them in electrical tape, but didn't wrap each of the 2 conductors separately. So occasionally, I was getting complete ABS/Traction control failure (4 warning lights on the dash all at once) when the two wires touched each other...even for a moment.
    Last edited by bitshftr; 10-07-2012 at 09:16 AM.

  14. #62
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    Just wanted to say I was able to install the innovate WB with the set up and it worked flawlessly! I also added the toggle switch to manually turn off the gauge. its also my first day with my RT DP back on and boosting to 0.9bar... and saw my AF ratio go straight to 10.1 on WOT!! otherwise, it stays around 14.0-14.4 on idle. gonna have so much fun noob tuning with EMB and my innovate WB.

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    I'm planning on using this concept for wiring in my car but I'm going to have 3 terminal strips (ordered the wago 222-415) for constant 12v, switched 12v and ground. That way I'll have all my bases covered when it comes to adding accessories to my car. Thank you for the ideas this will be SO much easier!
    Last edited by 208SUPRA; 10-06-2012 at 11:40 PM.

  16. #64
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    ^^ 208SUPRA, that's the takeaway from this entire thread...well said.

    I'm a big fan of the Wago 222-415, a.k.a CageClamps.

  17. #65
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    208supra. Remember that anything that needs a dedicated 12 is usually pulling many amps, hence the need for the relay, so if you go this route remember than you will have to have the line side much larger. In cases like this I usually run quality distribution blocks normally found installed on vehicles with upgraded sound systems

  18. #66
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    Another option is the Centech AP-2. Below is a photo of the board itself so you can see how it has the three common lines (eight ground/three batt/five pwr).

    SP

  19. #67
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    Sorry for bumping an old thread but I'm still an amateur when it comes to wiring. I'm currently adding 3 Greddy gauges to my current setup and they all require a: 12v power source, ignition source, light source, and ground. Ive got the 12v power source covered thanks to this thread and grounding them is no problem. My issue is figuring out how to apply the terminal strips to the ignition and light sources needed. Where can I tap into these sources and how exactly would I hook the terminal strips up? Will these strips need relays or not since they wont be used to power the gauges? Sorry again in advance but like I said, I am pretty inexperienced when it comes to electrical work and I want to set this up right and not have to worry about it again if I ever add anything else. I should probably also mention that I have a prosport oil pressure gauge and plx m300 wide band currently hooked up via the oem clock harness and hvac harness.

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  20. #68
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    Dominator, a good source of ignition power is the unused seat heater fuse socket in the fuse box at the driver's left kickpanel. Stick a "flag" terminal into the top contact of that fuse socket, add an inline fuse, then run that wire (14 or 12 gauge) to wherever your gauges are. This is your "ignition power bus". Tap into that wire with Posi-taps (or something similar) for each component that needs ignition power. You will not need a relay since the gauges don't draw a lot...the seat heater circuit is rated at 15 amps...but good practice is to add up the current draw of each thing you're connecting to the circuit to make sure the total doesn' exceed the circuit's rating.

    For light source, I run an "illumination+" bus using the same concept, but my source is the cigarette lighter illumination+ wire. I use a Posi-tap on this wire, which is 12v hot when the parking lights or headlights are on. Note that there's also an illumination- (negative) wire connected to the cigarette lighter, which is grounded through the dash-light-dimmer rheostat. I generally run an "illumination-" bus off this wire, which I use as illumination- for the backlights of added buttons, and some stereos. Neither of my gauges allows for the use of this wire though.

  21. #69
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    ^^ Also, forgot to mention that the seat heater circuit is on when the key is in the IGN or START positions, which makes it nice because that power doesn't cut out while starting the car.

  22. #70
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    Dunno why this hasn't been stickied yet... Am replacing my carpet soon and planning to do separate ground/key/B+ strips, when I pull the dash. Thanks again for the write up (am sure it's helped many of us already)!!!

  23. #71
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    good tip on the seat heater fuse.. will look into that over the weekend as well!

  24. #72
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    here is a little trick, instead of using a bunch of small jumper wires on the terminal block, use metal jumpers. works great and makes for a cleaner install
    Last edited by MetalGearMotorsports; 05-18-2013 at 07:06 AM.
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  25. #73
    SF Contributing Member bitshftr's Avatar
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    ^^ Yes, as stated in post #36, there's a single strip you can use:

    One suggestion: instead of making 7 "jumper" wires for the terminal block, pic up an "8-Position Jumper" strip (Model 274-650, $2.19) while you're at Radio Shack. Much neater and more reliable.

    But this still leaves metal exposed, which is a bad idea for power buses. The Cage Clamps make a quicker connection and don't expose any metal.

  26. #74
    SupraForums Member slither's Avatar
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    Guys you can go as crazy as you want, hell you could run a plc based system if you have the time. I showed the simple terminal strip because there's nothing to ever arc(no metal exposed) and no circuits to screw up. Go nuts with it now that the idea is in ur head.
    Bitshifter, pm coming. Just seen I had one from u from a while back

  27. #75
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    SO I followed the wiring set up this way to set up my innovate WB and all is good. today I decided to check on my amp draw since my battery cant last more than 3 days and its a new battery. I find that the fuse to the set up goes way up to 136.6ma. how do I modify the wiring to not do this? add a switch to before power gets to the relay? permanent solutions appreciated
    Last edited by shenofjo; 04-07-2014 at 11:32 AM.
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