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Thread: Fuel System Upgrade - How To

  1. #201
    Kinda Broken Supra Biologist's Avatar
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    I don't know how triple pumps work. Only duals :/
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  3. #202
    SupraForums Member JoeSupra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biologist View Post
    I don't know how triple pumps work. Only duals :/
    This is what forums are for. =) The triple pumps isn't a requirement right now. I just need a new fuel system so I stop clogging my injector filters with the inside of my shitty old rubber lines everytime time I drive it.
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  4. #203
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    any one have a link or part number for the relays?

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  6. #204
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    Bosch 30 amp relay will work fine, any local parts store should have one

  7. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by acmw View Post
    any one have a link or part number for the relays?
    you can get them from that famous auction site for cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pk-12V-30A-...item3f4be2738e

  8. #206
    SupraForums Member JoeSupra's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peters19108 View Post
    you can get them from that famous auction site for cheap http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pk-12V-30A-...item3f4be2738e
    Pete I tried pming you but your box is full.

  9. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeSupra View Post
    Pete I tried pming you but your box is full.
    I just cleaned it out.

  10. #208
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    thanks for the help guys went to the local auto zone and scooped some up. Now i have a diffferent issue , i am trying to get my accessory 12v from the fuel pump ecu (red/blue) wire but am not getting any power at all .
    i have a proefi 128 installed

  11. #209
    adammackintosh.net agm's Avatar
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    if the ecu is plug and play, it should work. i dont know of any other tap in wires you could use for the same benefits.
    if you use the fuel ecu, the pumps will stop in the event the engine shuts off, ie: an accident. you dont want that much fuel dumping into the engine bay in such event, so do your due diligence on that fuel pump ecu wire.
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  12. #210
    I'm not serious
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  13. #211
    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    What if I'm looking to adapt the stock feed line fitting straight into a 6AN line? I'd rather ditch the OEM filter completely and utilize the stock feed all the way to the stock filter, but not the stock filter. I bought this but it isn't the same thread, I don't believe, and I just realized it isn't a reverse flare.

    Earl's 9894DBHERL Aluminum Adapter

    This does NOT seem to be the correct fitting. It will give you an idea of what I'm attempting to do.

    I want to go from the flare nut on the feed line to a male 6AN. Anyone know where I can find such a fitting?

    Also. Somehow I managed to round off the 12mm on the OEM fuel pulsation damper and the bolt will NOT come free and it's rounded. How can I resolve this issue?
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  14. #212
    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    Ok I found what I needed. The fuel filter uses an inverted flare M14x1.5 thread fitting. So if I get this part I'll be able to hook up to my fuel line straight to my 6AN filter using quick disconnects. It's on eBay so this won't work in the future but for anyone who searches this in the future.. it has a fancy inverted flare like a brake line uses.

    6AN to 14mm x 1.5 inverted flare adapter I have confirmed that this part will work!
    Last edited by TheProPilot; 09-03-2018 at 11:35 AM.

  15. #213
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  16. #214
    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    Wow thanks for that! And good stuff on their site "Note: Not all M14 x 1.5mm inverted flares are universal. If you are looking for an adapter to work on a Mitsubishi, Eagle, Plymouth, etc. use this part HERE" boy am I glad I saw that! I bet the fitting I got on eBay will work, but to be safe I ordered the one from Radium.

    FYI Radium gave me a full refund as their fitting they sent to fit the stock feed nut was too deep.
    Last edited by TheProPilot; 09-03-2018 at 11:33 AM.

  17. #215
    this helps a lot, thanks for posting

  18. #216
    Racing is Life. TheProPilot's Avatar
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    FYI anyone running Bosch 210#/2000cc injectors can simply depin their factory injector connectors and use IS300 injector connectors by putting those pins right back in. It's PNP and works perfectly with the Bosch injectors. It's a few more bucks but zero soldering or crimping on your harness. It's a tight fit but it fits perfectly with the injectors tilted a few degrees like they have to be for clearance anyways.

    I also reused my stock feed and used a stainless steel inverted female flare M14.5 x 1.5 to 6AN adapter. I then used a stainless steel 30 micron filter in "place" of the stock feed filter. Then I ran my second 6AN feed with another filter beside it. This eliminates E85 concerns with the stock filter.

    I also purchased an AnoTuff 5/8" to 6AN crush adapter for the stock return, but opted not to use it. The 6AN *nylon* braided hose can be hose clamped right on with zero concerns for leaks or coming off.

    For the flex fuel sensor I used Russel 3/8" EFI to 6AN adapters. The ones I used have metal lock rings that you can put a dot of thread lock on, and it's physically impossible for fuel pressure to ever remove them.

    FYI Radium gave me a full refund as their fitting they sent to fit the stock feed nut was too deep. The stainless steel one from eBay is what I ended up using and zero issues at all.

  19. #217

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    Quote Originally Posted by 94Canuck View Post


    The next part deals with the return line and FPR. First determine a mounting location for your FPR. Since I removed my TRAC Pump I had a perfect hole open for it. In addition to that there are OEM mounting holes that can be utilized. Widening of the FPR bracket holes will be required for that. If you have a FPR bracket from PHR or MVP install as per their directions obviously.

    You measure, cut, and install the return line from the center port of the fuel rail, and into either side of the FPR. You plug the other side port. The bottom port connects a twist tite hose fitting, which you connect your OEM return line to. When you are done it should look like this.





    You are nearly finished! The next thing to deal with is the injector clips themselves which are supplied by FIC. Here is where labeling things will have come in very handy. Work you way along, clip by clip installing the new ones. The polarity doesn't matter, however I put them all the same, ie: red wire on the clip to the multi-colored wire on the OEM loom, black to the solid. I soldered the connections here. However post-write up and posting I've switched to connectors. Either way will work, I felt more comfortable with the connectors after the fact.





    When you are done you will have six clips ready to go. You can take some extra time and clean up the wiring over here like I did. Most of it will be hidden by the upper chamber, but either way, looks better than the old stuff.





    Congrats, you just finished installing your new fuel system. Now put everything back together, opposite to how it came off.

    Ensure all your connections are tight, o-rings are used where needed, and teflon tape any required threads. AN fittings don't require any but if you want to put it on go nuts. Once you are ready to start the car I would prime the lines and rail by removing the EFI fuse so there is no spark. Check for leaks without engine load, and again with load at every connection point.

    Other How-To's I've put together:

    Stock Twins Removal
    TRAC Pump and Actuator Removal

    Search Key Words: Fuel System Install Upgrade Pump Wiring
    Your the man! Great info bro

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