Caring for the A340 Factory automatic trans / built or stock - Page 6

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Thread: Caring for the A340 Factory automatic trans / built or stock

  1. #126
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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcYyBFcXX9g

    Oh, is this not good for the transmission?

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  3. #127
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    No hahaha

  4. #128
    SupraForums Member T6Rocket's Avatar
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    Back on topic, is it possible I damaged my pump by running it dry when changing fluid?

    How hard is it to change the pump, can it be done in the car?

    Cliffs: car does not shift into 2nd or 3rd when cold for the first 1/2 mile. After that, it's fine.

    Al
    94TT Auto, 6466
    [email protected] 27 psi 4/16/16
    Previous setup: HKS Twin 2835's
    [email protected] 32 psi, 10/29/06

    Previous car: 90 Talon AWD, 5 spd, FP Red (60-1)
    [email protected] built motor, 28 psi, Sept 2000

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  6. #129
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    It is possible, but depends on how long it was run dry. If it was only momentarily, the residual fluid in there would have kept it lubricated.

    You have to pull the tranny, the pump is driven off the input shaft.

    Put a pressure gauge on it before making any decisions.

  7. #130
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    does the trac light (not the trac off light) coupled with the lose of manu function and o/d off light blinking indicate a malfunction in the transmission? is it perhaps too much fluid or the wrong fluid?

  8. #131
    SupraForums Member T6Rocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supra-raleigh View Post
    does the trac light (not the trac off light) coupled with the lose of manu function and o/d off light blinking indicate a malfunction in the transmission? is it perhaps too much fluid or the wrong fluid?
    No. The TRAC system is disabled in some way - either the fuse is pulled, TRAC ECU is pulled, or just one of the plugs is pulled.

    Al

  9. #132

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    I have been having a problem with my built auto. The converter locks and unlocks randomly. It will fine for some miles and then it just locks up and eventually unlocks. What could it be? Something wrong with the lockup solenoid?

  10. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo13b View Post
    I have been having a problem with my built auto. The converter locks and unlocks randomly. It will fine for some miles and then it just locks up and eventually unlocks. What could it be? Something wrong with the lockup solenoid?
    Sometimes a simple disconnecting of the battery can work wonders. I've fixed many cars by doing this. It's worth a try. I had a similar problem with my built tranny where it would stutter & jump after I blew a fuel pump fuse for my walbro's. Thought it was something internal or a torque converter problem but ended up just needing the battery disconnected for a while so the ecu could reset.

  11. #134

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    It has a aem v1, ill try to disconnect the battery and see what happens.

  12. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo13b View Post
    It has a aem v1, ill try to disconnect the battery and see what happens.
    I'm also on the v1. Report back then on the results.

  13. #136
    "Granite" Sfitts2380's Avatar
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    Got a pretty important question
    I was talking with a rep from ATF about the ATF built A340E, and I asked him what fluid do they recommend for their built Toyota auto, and he suggested Valvoline Dexron 3 (non synthetic). But after going back and rereading this thread I noticed this post, and wondered if this was true or not. Also wondered if it would pertain to an auto that's been drastically modified such as the ATF trans.

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin777 View Post
    Per Boostlogic for their Transmission
    How to make sure the transmission and upgraded torque converter is operating properly:

    1) The transmission uses Toyota Type T4 Fluid.

    A Toyota Transmission Engineer, states: “T he reason the TT A340i uses TIV is because those trans' have flex lockup and "intelligence" control. The "i" means the ECM monitors input and output shaft timing to maintain constant shift speed over its life. The ECM's control calibration is matched to the TIV's fluid's friction coefficient and temperature characteristics. Any Toyota transmission with flex lockup (duty cycles linear solenoid at low speed and load) uses that fluid. Otherwise dexron III is used. The clutches and seals are the same. Using dexron in a TIV trans could cause shift flare, shock or lockup shudder. The Toyota stuff is very high quality (mineral based) and really not that inexpensive. There really isn't a "universal fluid". Using that train of that would be like saying all spark plugs are the same. “.




    2) The transmission fluid level is measured with the car running and in neutral.

    3) The traction ECU is taken out and traction ECU removed. It is normal for the O/D light to blink.

    4) Transmission temperatures should range from 170 to 210 degrees depending on cruise or wide open throttle

    Transmissions running on AEM:

    1) Timing HAS to be less than 6 degrees of timing between shifts. This will ensure the longevity of the transmission. Each car will be different as to how quick the timing will be ramped back in. Doing this incorrectly will result in a slow vehicle. Please ensure that proper professional tuning has been contracted. We recommend tuning by Justin from Tuning Concepts ([email protected])

    Instructions on doing a burnout without breaking the 2nd gear sprag:

    Stock ECU Equipped Cars:

    Place the car in 1st gear. Do the burnout ONLY in first. Shifting to 2nd can cause you to roll the sprag.

    AEM ECU Equipped Cars:

    Press the MANU button .Place the car in 1st gear and do the burnout. If you do not use the MANU button, the transmission will go through the gears as normal even if the shifter is placed into 1st gear.
    So the question is which fluid should be ran, anybody with ATF auto please chime in

    PS: mods why isn't this thread a sticky by now, tons of great auto info!!
    ~Stephen~
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRedGuy View Post
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  14. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sfitts2380 View Post
    Got a pretty important question
    I was talking with a rep from ATF about the ATF built A340E, and I asked him what fluid do they recommend for their built Toyota auto, and he suggested Valvoline Dexron 3 (non synthetic). But after going back and rereading this thread I noticed this post, and wondered if this was true or not. Also wondered if it would pertain to an auto that's been drastically modified such as the ATF trans.

    ...

    So the question is which fluid should be ran, anybody with ATF auto please chime in

    PS: mods why isn't this thread a sticky by now, tons of great auto info!!
    With stock autos and BL built autos I've always stuck by the recommended Toyota Type IV ATF. When I first got my Dad's Aristo-powered SC300 sorted out, it'd bounce off the rev limiter briefly before upshifting under WOT, both 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

    I flushed out all the Dexron, and replaced it with Toyota Type IV, and it's never done that since.

    I also agree this should be a sticky! We might eventually move it into the tech section to keep things less cluttered, but for now it'll stay here.
    Jeff
    "I spent a lot of money on booze, chicks and fast cars. The rest I just squandered." -- George Best
    Quote Originally Posted by KING View Post
    Who would have ever thought.....the impact an automobile can make.....

  15. #138
    "Granite" Sfitts2380's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wreckless View Post
    With stock autos and BL built autos I've always stuck by the recommended Toyota Type IV ATF. When I first got my Dad's Aristo-powered SC300 sorted out, it'd bounce off the rev limiter briefly before upshifting under WOT, both 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.

    I flushed out all the Dexron, and replaced it with Toyota Type IV, and it's never done that since.

    I also agree this should be a sticky! We might eventually move it into the tech section to keep things less cluttered, but for now it'll stay here.
    Good info, I also talked to some Toyota guys running the ATF a340e and they all said the same thing, they are using Toyota Type IV

  16. #139
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    ransmissions running on AEM:

    1) Timing HAS to be less than 6 degrees of timing between shifts. This will ensure the longevity of the transmission. Each car will be different as to how quick the timing will be ramped back in. Doing this incorrectly will result in a slow vehicle. Please ensure that proper professional tuning has been contracted. We recommend tuning by Justin from Tuning Concepts ([email protected])

    Instructions on doing a burnout without breaking the 2nd gear sprag:

    Stock ECU Equipped Cars:

    Place the car in 1st gear. Do the burnout ONLY in first. Shifting to 2nd can cause you to roll the sprag.

    AEM ECU Equipped Cars:

    Press the MANU button .Place the car in 1st gear and do the burnout. If you do not use the MANU button, the transmission will go through the gears as normal even if the shifter is placed into 1st gear.

    Hello need help here.
    just finish install the AEM2 my supra MK IV has stock TT and with AUto Tranny.After fininsh the dyno and maps when i drove back the transmisson shift very hard from R to D
    The Shift gear occurs below 1,000 RPM ....
    My question will be it be better if i just follow the above set up?
    Thank guys
    www.metalzero.com

  17. #140
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    So I've upgraded to Titan Stage 2 auto on 3.5k Stall on AEMv2 with a nice cooler. It been good step up to stay the least.
    I've sacrificed my life financially, career wise, socially and touch of woman for the sake of keeping my Supra project alive.

    Zero regrets.

    My Ladies:
    -1994 Toyota Supra TT Auto Targa Top-BPU-With evil plans in Mind-Current& Loving her.
    -1994 Mazda Rx7 R-2-Sold

  18. #141
    "Granite" Sfitts2380's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bontis View Post
    So I've upgraded to Titan Stage 2 auto on 3.5k Stall on AEMv2 with a nice cooler. It been good step up to stay the least.
    Good luck, my Titan S2 didn't last very long with twin big coolers, same stall, around 800hp which is what they rate it for

  19. #142
    Why an Auto?? Justin777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sfitts2380 View Post
    Got a pretty important question
    I was talking with a rep from ATF about the ATF built A340E, and I asked him what fluid do they recommend for their built Toyota auto, and he suggested Valvoline Dexron 3 (non synthetic). But after going back and rereading this thread I noticed this post, and wondered if this was true or not. Also wondered if it would pertain to an auto that's been drastically modified such as the ATF trans.



    So the question is which fluid should be ran, anybody with ATF auto please chime in

    PS: mods why isn't this thread a sticky by now, tons of great auto info!!

    If an ATF rep told you to run that specific fluid then personally I would run what they say should be run in their transmission. Once my BL bites the dust I will be going with them personally myself.
    "Obedience breeds discipline, discipline breeds unity, unity breeds power, power is life."
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  20. #143
    SupraForums Member T6Rocket's Avatar
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    The guy from ATF told me it was fine to run Toyota T-IV.

    Al

  21. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sfitts2380 View Post
    Good luck, my Titan S2 didn't last very long with twin big coolers, same stall, around 800hp which is what they rate it for
    Hmmm how many miles did you put on it? I got about 6k on my set-up. But I will say, recently it keeps dropping out of gear after 15-20 mins
    Last edited by bontis; 06-25-2014 at 04:22 PM. Reason: grammer.

  22. #145

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    This thread is a load of fkn BS.

    Here's a supra hitting 3rd easy with no issues ever.....EVER.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXJO...9A4pMjQjXWf15w

  23. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUZ View Post
    This thread is a load of fkn BS.

    Here's a supra hitting 3rd easy with no issues ever.....EVER.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXJO...9A4pMjQjXWf15w
    Come back and let us know how well that works when you're making real power and running real tires.

  24. #147
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    Wreckless certainly doesn't need anyone to back him up, but I'd like to stress for everyone that will read this thread: doing a few burnouts on a stock motor/transmission and getting away with not rolling the second gear sprag does NOT mean you should. It is a known weak point, documented by Supra owners and transmission builders all across the country. There is NO POINT in doing a burnout and having it shift into second gear. Doesn't matter if it looks or sounds cool, just stick to first.

    BUZ, your last post bumped a 6 year thread to quote some information you found on wikipedia. You're 0 for 2 now...come on.

  25. #148

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    Hi All,

    Is someone able to post screenshots or cal files for the Auto Box settings (30-6100 V2) with all the bugs ironed out ?

    Any assistance would be great.

    Cheers

  26. #149
    Addict raysupra's Avatar
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    what kind of bugs are you talking about? the original cal file should be good to control what you have
    Last edited by raysupra; 02-10-2015 at 09:32 PM.
    -Parker-
    1985 MKII:-2jz/R154/AEM EMS2

  27. #150

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    How About stock Transmission running on Proefi 128?

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