aaaaahhh i can't decide what twin disk to buy!!!!

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Thread: aaaaahhh i can't decide what twin disk to buy!!!!

  1. #1
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    aaaaahhh i can't decide what twin disk to buy!!!!

    so the clutch in my car hasn't been able to hold what my motor is making so i had to turn the boost down to 14psi. holds that fine but now that drags are starting i want to turn the boost up and need a clutch that can hold it. it'd be nice to save money and get a single disk clutch thats rated more but at this point i have my doubts that it will cut it. and if it doesn't then id have to get a twin so considering just getting one now. been looking around and holly shit there are a lot of them! i want something that can handle a burnout to heat tires then clutch slip for launch and not slip pulling through the gears. i don't ever plan on going over 700whp will be 500's most the time and 600's on race gas occasionally.


    here are the 4 im considering

    this clutch is os gikens more street friendly twin disk according to their web site. its sprung, has fairly large diameter disk, and includes the movement alteration kit. this is the clutch im pretty sure i want its just on os giken chart its at the lower end of hp holding capabilities and havent really found anything about someone using it on their r154. my buddy has one in his evo that makes 633 on c16 and he likes it.

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-str...h-kit-1jz.html


    this is the most affordable twin i found. its sprung has smaller disk than the str but uses the stock clutch fork and works as a pull type clutch. says it can hold 550 ps which is about 550ftlbs but im guessing it could hold more since twins seem to be underated

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/orc-559-twin...ull-cover.html


    then theirs the TS2CD which according to os giken chart holds more power than the str but im guessing its less streetable??

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-ts2...it-toyota.html


    and the exedy twin but it has smaller disk and cost little more so idk if its even worth bringing up. other than i know they make good stuff and it looks cool lol

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/exedy-hyper-...lutch-1jz.html

    if you have any experience with these twins id like to hear! or if you have any other to suggest. i know they're all gonna rattle somewhat so i guess its just something you have to live with. i want to order one soon but can't decide what to get!!!
    Last edited by black89t; 04-23-2015 at 05:50 PM.
    89 supra turbo 2jz na-t, hx35 @20psi 476whp/473wtq
    now s364.5 661whp/609wtq @28psi
    90 toyota pickup with 7mgte/r154 totaled :(

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    I'm going to be using this one. I should actually start the car for the first time in june.

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-tr2...lutch-kit.html

    It is still a sprung hub, so it should be fair on the street, but it also has higher clamping force.
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  4. #3
    Super Moderator Trent's Avatar
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    I can certainly see where you are coming from but do you really need to step up to a twin disc? Or are you just most worried about street driving on a big single disc?

    I only ask because my previous car put 540 to the tires on pump gas and I had the now RPS Stage 3 (formerly RPS Sprung Max) and beat the ever living SHIT out of it on a daily basis. I drove it everyday, countless hard launches, autocrosses, street races, etc etc and I never had an issue with it. When the engine blew, I took the clutch out and it still had plenty of life left.

    The only downside, and I didn't personally consider it a downside, is the pedal feel/pressure. It's a hard clutch to push in and is a little sensitive to get moving and going, but just like any clutch, you get used to it. I loved the feel and got used to it in a hurry.

    It also has a 730tq capacity. It might be worth looking at if you haven't already.
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  6. #4
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MKNTRAXX View Post
    I'm going to be using this one. I should actually start the car for the first time in june.

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-tr2...lutch-kit.html

    It is still a sprung hub, so it should be fair on the street, but it also has higher clamping force.
    i forgot about that one. i think its second highest on their chart. really id like to get the one thats most street able with lightish pedal but wont slip. and i assumed that one would be worse than the TS. also the confusing thing is theres no place to enter that you need the 1jz one so idk how youd place an order for it lol. ive looked forever and the annoying this is people say yeah i have the os giken twin and i like it. but they rarely say what one they have and haven't found one post about someone with the str with r154 and how much its held for them. one guy with a mk2 had one was saying he liked it how it drives a lot but never ran lots of boost with it. they're all pretty close in price i guess the safe bet would be to get the TR like you plan on then i know it will hold a lot but then its like is the clamping force close to a heavy single which is what id like to avoid. i just rebuilt my trans last summer with all the goodies and had to get a whole parts car to get a trans cause theyre so hard to find without paying up the ass. so something that doesn't shock load it is what im after. plus avoiding risk of crank walk.


    Quote Originally Posted by Trent View Post
    I can certainly see where you are coming from but do you really need to step up to a twin disc? Or are you just most worried about street driving on a big single disc?

    I only ask because my previous car put 540 to the tires on pump gas and I had the now RPS Stage 3 (formerly RPS Sprung Max) and beat the ever living SHIT out of it on a daily basis. I drove it everyday, countless hard launches, autocrosses, street races, etc etc and I never had an issue with it. When the engine blew, I took the clutch out and it still had plenty of life left.

    The only downside, and I didn't personally consider it a downside, is the pedal feel/pressure. It's a hard clutch to push in and is a little sensitive to get moving and going, but just like any clutch, you get used to it. I loved the feel and got used to it in a hurry.

    It also has a 730tq capacity. It might be worth looking at if you haven't already.
    yeah i know about the rps but isn't it basically like the act xtreme? i know the act xtreme will hold the power and its only like 700 but don't those tend to cause crank walk? the rps is like 850 prolly like 900 shipped and at that point id be willing to pay the extra for a twin since its not too far away in cost. if the twins are that much lighter clamping force and the two disk engaging are easier on the trans it seems worth it in the long run. gonna read a little more about the act xtreme i guess. but i thought the consensus was really heavy pressure plate equal crank walk.

    and im hard on my car too. i don't just do some hw pulls on occasion. i prolly make close to 100 passes at the drag strip each year and autocross every month and do some track days. might do the local hill climb this year too. the action 6 puck that im on hold low 400's great but once i got close to 500 it started to not be too happy. and now with the turbo im on this year its really not happy
    Last edited by black89t; 04-24-2015 at 01:57 PM.

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    Super Moderator Trent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black89t View Post
    yeah i know about the rps but isn't it basically like the act xtreme? i know the act xtreme will hold the power and its only like 700 but don't those tend to cause crank walk? the rps is like 850 prolly like 900 shipped and at that point id be willing to pay the extra for a twin since its not too far away in cost. if the twins are that much lighter clamping force and the two disk engaging are easier on the trans its worth it seems worth it in the long run. gonna read a little more about the act xtreme i guess. but i thought the consensus was really heavy pressure plate equal crank walk.
    I had a bone stock bottom end and head in my car and clutch started it daily. Never had a crank walk issue. If you are that concerned about it, just do the clutch bypass switch so you don't have to push the clutch in to start the car. You won't have to worry about crank walk if you do that. But again I never had the issue. I don't know how similar it is to the ACT Xtreme as I have no experience with ACT clutches.

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    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trent View Post
    I had a bone stock bottom end and head in my car and clutch started it daily. Never had a crank walk issue. If you are that concerned about it, just do the clutch bypass switch so you don't have to push the clutch in to start the car. You won't have to worry about crank walk if you do that. But again I never had the issue. I don't know how similar it is to the ACT Xtreme as I have no experience with ACT clutches.

    hmm well thats definitely something to note. ive had the clutch switch baypassed from ever since i did my swap too so my thrust washers are prolly in good shape also considering the motor had an auto trans behind it most its life. im pretty sure both those clutches have a 3200lb pressure plate. so would have same risk against crank walk. but maybe is less of an issue i guess i have to do more reading on it to help me decide.

    oh and how did it launch for you? like was it able to handle a big burnout then high rev clutch slip on launch and still pull through gears?
    Last edited by black89t; 04-24-2015 at 02:21 PM.

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    If you want to stay with a single clutch, then look at the Southbend clutches. They have a good reputation for light pedal feel and holding big power. I'm going to change my ACT Xtreme to the Southbend stage 3 endurance (rated at 660 ft/lb) soon to get a lighter pedal.


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    SupraForums Member dexlex's Avatar
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    rps carbon twin disc

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    Quote Originally Posted by black89t View Post
    i forgot about that one. i think its second highest on their chart. really id like to get the one thats most street able with lightish pedal but wont slip. and i assumed that one would be worse than the TS. also the confusing thing is theres no place to enter that you need the 1jz one so idk how youd place an order for it lol. ive looked forever and the annoying this is people say yeah i have the os giken twin and i like it. but they rarely say what one they have and haven't found one post about someone with the str with r154 and how much its held for them. one guy with a mk2 had one was saying he liked it how it drives a lot but never ran lots of boost with it. they're all pretty close in price i guess the safe bet would be to get the TR like you plan on then i know it will hold a lot but then its like is the clamping force close to a heavy single which is what id like to avoid. i just rebuilt my trans last summer with all the goodies and had to get a whole parts car to get a trans cause theyre so hard to find without paying up the ass. so something that doesn't shock load it is what im after. plus avoiding risk of crank walk.
    Yeah sorry I don't have experiance on it yet. I'm getting the car back together as fast as I can.. Its a dedicated track car for roadracing that will be driven ocassionally on the street.

    I ordered mine from Vivid racing (associated with powerhouse racing) and it took a few weeks to get, but they can help you get the correct one.
    I can give you the part numbers from my invoice. This was for a 1JZ(going on a 2JZ) for the R154

    TR2CD clutch kit was TY021-BF6
    Alteration kit is TY021-BF60M
    If you want the OS giken alignment tool its TY031-EB

    I went with it because it would handle everything I could throw at it with my build and the company has a reputation for great products. Then i'll be able to give the members here some real information on it.
    Last edited by MKNTRAXX; 04-24-2015 at 06:33 PM.

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    Super Moderator Trent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black89t View Post
    hmm well thats definitely something to note. ive had the clutch switch baypassed from ever since i did my swap too so my thrust washers are prolly in good shape also considering the motor had an auto trans behind it most its life. im pretty sure both those clutches have a 3200lb pressure plate. so would have same risk against crank walk. but maybe is less of an issue i guess i have to do more reading on it to help me decide.

    oh and how did it launch for you? like was it able to handle a big burnout then high rev clutch slip on launch and still pull through gears?
    No I repeatedly beat the hell out of that thing. I was 22-24 at the time and had no regard or care for how well it held up or how badly I was abusing it or the rest of the car honestly. I could have been a lot nicer to it. It had probably 30k miles on it when I was done and it never slipped or had an issue once.

    I had forgotten about Southbend clutches as well. They also have more than just what is on their website. If you call them and tell them what you want and what you plan to do they can build one just for that. I've known of two MK3 owners who heavily drag theirs in the past that had built to spec Southbend setups and they did great. Both were single discs in the 500-600hp range

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    +1 for the TR2CD Os Giken.

    As Trent said, you get used to the pedal feel and engagement pretty quick. Also, I like the rattle it makes, sounds more like jingle bells.

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    I was at an fork in the road with this issue as well. I am/was trying to choose a clutch. I want to make around 600hp so I decided to go with a South Bend. I called South bend and told them what I was trying to make and he said running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate they are rated at 600ftlbs. I will add he said 600ftlbs was under rating that set up. I was going to pull the trigger on and ORC rated for 700 but it was double the price. I had great luck with the SB clutch in my DSM. I won't have my car running for a month or so but I can let you know how it works out. The twin disk wasn't in my budget at the time. It was 780$ for the SB clutch kit out the door. The ORC was roughly 1600$. If I was shooting for 650+ ftlbs of torque I would be going twin disk. Probably ORC. In my case I had to draw the line somewhere and make my build fit my budget because a clutch isn't all that I need to finish it right now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by untouchablecc View Post
    I was at an fork in the road with this issue as well. I am/was trying to choose a clutch. I want to make around 600hp so I decided to go with a South Bend. I called South bend and told them what I was trying to make and he said running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate they are rated at 600ftlbs. I will add he said 600ftlbs was under rating that set up. ....
    Why not the SB stage 3 endurance, rated at 660 ft/lb. It is a Kevlar disc so is very street drivable? Is it because you will be drag racing with the ceramic one? I'm still trying to work out which SB one will be best for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 360rwkw View Post
    Why not the SB stage 3 endurance, rated at 660 ft/lb. It is a Kevlar disc so is very street drivable? Is it because you will be drag racing with the ceramic one? I'm still trying to work out which SB one will be best for me.
    I am on SouthBends Website right now and I do not see anything rated for 660ftlbs for a mk3 supra. 600flbs is the highest and that is there extreme kit. I did order the Stage 3 Endurance as suggested by the guy I talked to on the phone. He suggested the full ceramic disk for the power I was going for. I personally had a full ceramic disk in my AWD talon and It engaged just like a normal street disk. I plan to drag race some so I want it to bite. This might engage differently being rwd vs awd but I doubt it.

    Looking at the mk4 clutches I see the SB SS TZ endurance clutch is rated for 660ft lbs but we don't run a 2jz flywheel. It has more surface area. We use a 7m or 1jz flywheel for the r154 so that's why the rating is lower. That's why I called them up personally. I was not happy with seeing that the mk3 supra endurance clutch is rated 465ftlbs. I verified with one of the sales reps twice that the Endurance pressure plate with the full ceramic disk would hold every bit of 600ftlbs.
    Last edited by untouchablecc; 04-25-2015 at 05:43 PM.

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    Sorry, I was looking at the mk4 clutches. Your comment about running a full ceramic disk with their heavier pressure plate sounds good for me as well. I'll check with SB if they can do one for their mkiv stage 4 PP as well?

  18. #16
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    soooooooooo i ordered the os giken TS2CD. heres how i came to my conclusion. i couldn't find any info showing the str could hold good power and its rated low on os gikens hp chart. the orc couldn't find anyone running decent hp with one, 200mm disk, highish rebuild cost, flywheel and dowels or whatever they're called that hold the plates doesn't look as well designed as os giken or exedy. didn't want the exedy cause of high rebuild cost and 200mm disk compared to 215mm disk on the TS. that left the os giken TS. its the clutch that when most people say they have a os giken twin thats what they have. its proven to hold a lot like multiple people in the 700`s and take a beating. so i went for it. and the rebuild kit is 500 from rhd so thats not bad at all compared to going through single disk cause thats what seems to happen north of 450whp unless all you do is hw pulls. or go with the really heavy pressure plate but after reading more and going with my gut feeling its that those are hard on the trans and thrust washers. then the risk that if i don't like it or it doesn't hold up well im out 800 bucks and have to get a twin anyway.

    didn't go with the tr series cause of heavier pressure plate and i think its overkill for my setup. i'll let you guys know how i like it when it shows up and i install it!

    and the carbon is over kill too id say and seems to not drive well on the street from what people say. something about having to slip it a lot gets it hot and it bites too hard.
    Last edited by black89t; 04-28-2015 at 01:15 AM.

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    Sounds good. I'll wait to her your review of it.

  20. #18
    Do You Even HKS, Bro?!? KevinM's Avatar
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    Too bad I just saw this today. I have a used HKS twin JZ-R154 clutch that I'm going to sell. I'd have to recheck, but the discs are 4.1mm IIRC so plenty of life. Need about half of what those are..

    Anybody else looking for a good clutch, lmk
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  21. #19
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MKNTRAXX View Post
    Sounds good. I'll wait to her your review of it.
    hopefully it doesn't take forever to show up!


    Quote Originally Posted by KevinM View Post
    Too bad I just saw this today. I have a used HKS twin JZ-R154 clutch that I'm going to sell. I'd have to recheck, but the discs are 4.1mm IIRC so plenty of life. Need about half of what those are..

    Anybody else looking for a good clutch, lmk
    yeah i think i would have passed anyway since its hard to source parts for and hks twins look like theyre way more expensive to rebuild than the giken or exedy or orc. but thanks im sure somebody will buy it if the price is right.
    Last edited by black89t; 04-29-2015 at 01:53 PM.

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    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    figured id update this post. i finally got my clutch this past friday. there was a hold up with customs but rhdjapan was fast to sort out the issue and get them the paper work they needed. was something about a more detail description of goods. it was like Christmas though i was pretty excited been waiting for a while to get it lol. i worked on getting it installed that evening i pulled my trans earlier that week cause it was suppose to show up wednesday so i had a head start. the directions were all in Japanese which made putting it in fun!




    i was a little confused on the movement alteration kit. there was a cone shaped spring that i couldn't figure out what it was for at first. lots of the pics of the kit on the r154 theres a return spring on the guide pin so thats what i thought it was at first. in the pic on the instuctions i thought maybe it went on the back side of the pin. then ended up finding a thread where some guy was confused also and contacted os giken and in the updated version theres no return spring on the guide. the cone spring goes on the new slave cylinder rod im guessing to help keep it centered.





    in the clutch directions i could tell by the pics that they were showing the flywheel bolts needed to be cut down. i put the flywheel on with two bolts and checked the depth. it was really close to the length of the arp flywheel bolts i had on the stock flywheel so i cut them down a little to make sure they wouldn't bottom out.


    then i wasn't sure if i was suppose to put it all on the input shaft like how you normally install the trans but then came to the conclusion keeping all the disks and plates together would be a total pita plus torquing all the bolts down for the pressure plate in multiple passes O_o so i figured it had to be installed like most push type clutches. the clutch doesn't come with an alignment tool either but luckily i had something handy that would get the job done. i knew i blew up that trans for a reason lol





    to get the trans in i had to jack up the front of the engine that way it angled down more to get the input shaft in. without doing that the bell housing hit the trans tunnel. was quite the ordeal but i got it in friday and wrapped it up saturday morning.

    when i first backed out of the garage i like shot out of there cause it engaged so hard and i wasn't used to the engagement point at all it was cool though cause it didn't chatter at all or feel harsh engaging just really quickly engaged and made the the car freaking move! i pushed the clutch back it right away though to keep me from ramming my neighbors house hahaa. i drove the car around all day through the local towns trying to start from a stop as much as possible to get used to it. then later that evening went to the local street legals to make a couple passes. im sorta bad at waiting for breakin periods lol. but i don't think metalic clutches need much of a breakin. i only made like 4 passes i think 12.3 was my fastest they weren't printing out slips so i had my friends looking. was able to run 18psi though and it didn't slip at all pulls pretty good too. the pedal is a little stiff but nothing crazy and i got used to driving it for the most part. and it doesn't make much rattle noise at all with the clutch in. you have to really try to hear it or be in a enclose area. so thats nice. seems like my trans shifts a little better now too. im happy with it though and now when somebody else gets one they can know how and what to expect with the install.

    oh and heres where i found the torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate

    http://www.osgiken.net/upload/d42.pdf
    Last edited by black89t; 05-19-2015 at 08:02 PM.

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    os giken does make their own alignment tool. Its machined out of a chunk of steel and costs about 80 bucks.

    Good that your enjoying it. I'm excited to get mine in the car.

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    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MKNTRAXX View Post
    os giken does make their own alignment tool. Its machined out of a chunk of steel and costs about 80 bucks.

    Good that your enjoying it. I'm excited to get mine in the car.
    im sure you'll like it! you can tell the parts are well made and thought out. was very impressed with it all. i forgot to mention that i weighed my old clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing and it was 42-43lbs and according to rhdjapan website it looks like the os giken ts2cd is about 33lbs. so its 10lbs lighter i wanted to weigh it but i forgot to that way i could see for myself what it weighs but im sure rhdjapan info is correct.

    and i know we all like videos heres one of a car like mine racing my buddys rb26 silvia with pt6262 running 420whp @15psi.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix4d...ature=youtu.be
    Last edited by black89t; 05-20-2015 at 08:28 PM.

  25. #23
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    Just looking for any updates on this.

    I just bought a STR twin from RHDjapan, because I know what the OS Tr twin felt like and I dind't like how stiff it was. I'm hoping the red top cover will do the trick for me as I'm on upgraded twins and plan form no more than 600RWTQ at max. Hopefully, we are all good in the hood. Just wondering if you have updates to this? I know my friend still loves his TR billet faced OS.
    Last edited by ZaZZn; 03-23-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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    Super Moderator Wreckless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZaZZn View Post
    Just looking for any updates on this.

    I just bought a STR twin from RHDjapan, because I know what the OS TS twin felt like and I dind't like how stiff it was. I'm hoping the red top cover will do the trick for me as I'm on upgraded twins and plan form no more than 600RWTQ at max. Hopefully, we are all good in the hood. Just wondering if you have updates to this? I know my friend still loves his TR billet faced OS.
    This is one of the best 4 year bumps I've seen. Eric - keep us posted on how that STR works out for you!
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    Quote Originally Posted by KING View Post
    Who would have ever thought.....the impact an automobile can make.....

  27. #25
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZaZZn View Post
    Just looking for any updates on this.

    I just bought a STR twin from RHDjapan, because I know what the OS Tr twin felt like and I dind't like how stiff it was. I'm hoping the red top cover will do the trick for me as I'm on upgraded twins and plan form no more than 600RWTQ at max. Hopefully, we are all good in the hood. Just wondering if you have updates to this? I know my friend still loves his TR billet faced OS.
    WOW ALL MY THREADS HAVE THEIR PICS BACK!!!!!! that goes to show the peoples power! where we spend our money and now our internet traffic! i'm guessing everyone quit using photobucket so they lost more money from low traffic then they did with their scam to make everyone pay to have them host pics! i sure quit using the site....

    anyway so yeah i forget to update threads i make and sorta had a bitter taste when i'd go back to see all my pics gone. as far as the clutch i think you'll be fine with the str. my buddy had one in his evo that made around 600whp on a quick spooling fp red or something like that made decent torque. the surface area increase from having two disk compared to one alone increases the torque ability quite a bit. honestly though the ts in my car drives amazing. the steel pressure plate gives it some flex so it has a lighter feel than the tr but they both use the more aggressive disks if i recall correctly. the str has a more street friendly disk material i couldn't really find anyone that ran it with a r154 let alone to its limits. most used r154 os giken twins i saw were the ts so that helped sway my purchase. i still have the same clutch in my car too! hoping to hit mid 700's on the s369 i just picked up too so going to put it up to more of a test.

    the only time it's slipped on me is hot lapping it at the drag strip. it can launch hard just not over and over and over in a row. i run a hoosier qtp and they love clutch dumps lol. so if you want a full drag set up seems like carbon clutches are the best for that. over all though i'm amazed at how it's held up for me it's a great clutch!! os giken ftw!

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