aaaaahhh i can't decide what twin disk to buy!!!! - Page 2

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Thread: aaaaahhh i can't decide what twin disk to buy!!!!

  1. #26
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    l337 M0d3r4t0r
    ZaZZn's Avatar
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    So I have some big news....

    Clutch came in, but I ordered what I thought was a flywheel bolt kit from RHDJapan, but turns out its actually just one flywheel bolt.

    Anyways, first unboxing pics are here, with some other goodies like a TRD shifter and Boss steering adapter and some mufflers for my SC.

    Eric W
    87 TT E85
    91 T 60k miles
    98 SC 300

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  3. #27
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    1 bolt? I'd be looking at the box as if it had 4 sides -_-







    Jk lol. I'd be confused though

  4. #28
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    l337 M0d3r4t0r
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    Black89T can you tell me where the taper bolt goes for the OS alteration kit? The instructions are hideously bad and the translations are worse.

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  6. #29
    SupraForums Member CinePhile's Avatar
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    I've been researching OS Giken twin disc clutches and you guys are swaying me to the STR2CD, and TS2CD. I was also looking at the GTS2CD "Grand Touring" twin with their floating disc system that is supposed to keep down rattle but I have heard mixed reviews on how hard you can push the GTS (not just with power output but driving style also) versus other higher spec OSG clutches.

    I'm on a stock 2JZGTE (Export/US spec) on stock sequential boost (10-12psi) with an R154 and currently I'm on a SouthBend Stage 3 Daily (copper-organic disc) clutch kit which is good for most normal use but can slip on me with too much heat buildup when I push it hard. Don't get me wrong, it's a fine clutch most of the time for the 340hp/350tq or so that the engine puts out but I do have to take care not to overheat the disc when accelerating quickly from a stop or at low speeds which will cause some slip so I'll give a little pause between shifts when I have briefly gone into full boost very quickly.

    I'm interested in going with a stronger clutch that can handle more than this one will but which will not put unnecessary pressure on the crank's rear thrust bearing (ie: to avoid crankwalk as others have also stated). I'm not concerned about this with SB but I do think it's time for a twin disc overall.

    For the fun qualities I'm looking for I really just want worry-free power holding at the power level I'm at, as much DD friendliness as I can hope for in a twin disc clutch and the ability to accelerate flat out or kick it sideways on a track without the clutch slipping. Although really this is a 98% daily driver so track use will be pretty rare for me.

    The STR2CD has the movement alteration kit included and that one looks like the best value until power levels increase significantly. Black89T you seem to be very happy with your OSG TS series. ZaZZn how do you like your STR?
    Last edited by CinePhile; 05-04-2019 at 03:22 AM.
    93 SC300 5-speed | 2JZ-GTE | Built R154 | Gixxer Susp. 600/325 | 3.92

  7. #30
    boost'en down 101 black89t's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZaZZn View Post
    Black89T can you tell me where the taper bolt goes for the OS alteration kit? The instructions are hideously bad and the translations are worse.
    i'm not sure what bolt your talking. there's one that has a guide pin on it but it's actually pretty straight forward it will only go on one way since it has to line up with the slave cylinder rod.

    Quote Originally Posted by CinePhile View Post
    I've been researching OS Giken twin disc clutches and you guys are swaying me to the STR2CD, and TS2CD. I was also looking at the GTS2CD "Grand Touring" twin with their floating disc system that is supposed to keep down rattle but I have heard mixed reviews on how hard you can push the GTS (not just with power output but driving style also) versus other higher spec OSG clutches.

    I'm on a stock 2JZGTE (Export/US spec) on stock sequential boost (10-12psi) with an R154 and currently I'm on a SouthBend Stage 3 Daily (copper-organic disc) clutch kit which is good for most normal use but can slip on me with too much heat buildup when I push it hard. Don't get me wrong, it's a fine clutch most of the time for the 340hp/350tq or so that the engine puts out but I do have to take care not to overheat the disc when accelerating quickly from a stop or at low speeds which will cause some slip so I'll give a little pause between shifts when I have briefly gone into full boost very quickly.

    I'm interested in going with a stronger clutch that can handle more than this one will but which will not put unnecessary pressure on the crank's rear thrust bearing (ie: to avoid crankwalk as others have also stated). I'm not concerned about this with SB but I do think it's time for a twin disc overall.

    For the fun qualities I'm looking for I really just want worry-free power holding at the power level I'm at, as much DD friendliness as I can hope for in a twin disc clutch and the ability to accelerate flat out or kick it sideways on a track without the clutch slipping. Although really this is a 98% daily driver so track use will be pretty rare for me.

    The STR2CD has the movement alteration kit included and that one looks like the best value until power levels increase significantly. Black89T you seem to be very happy with your OSG TS series. ZaZZn how do you like your STR?

    For a car that's under 500whp with a r154 you really don't need a twin disk. i ran the action 6 puck from drift motion for a while on my hx35 which held that hp well. there was chatter though from the puck disk. i think there's some full faces out there now that can hold similar power but will have a much smoother engagement since it's not a puck clutch. i recall alec the 7m guy having great luck with clutch masters.
    89 supra turbo 2jz na-t, hx35 @20psi 476whp/473wtq
    now s364.5 661whp/609wtq @28psi
    90 toyota pickup with 7mgte/r154 totaled :(

  8. #31
    SupraForums Member CinePhile's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by black89t View Post
    For a car that's under 500whp with a r154 you really don't need a twin disk. i ran the action 6 puck from drift motion for a while on my hx35 which held that hp well. there was chatter though from the puck disk. i think there's some full faces out there now that can hold similar power but will have a much smoother engagement since it's not a puck clutch. i recall alec the 7m guy having great luck with clutch masters.
    ^^ This is what I'd heard many times before building my engine but so far it hasn't been my experience with the SB full face single disc clutch I'm on rated at 400 ft-lbs. With the stock twins in sequential mode 300 ft-lbs arrive as early as 1800 rpm and I find that easing into the power and not staying in full boost for long is necessary before I get some slip past 3500-4000 (basically heating up that clutch disc from the sustained full torque) or if I try to accelerate too quickly from a stop.

    I pause a little between gear changes after every hard pull and that seems to prevent incidence of slip but it does put a damper on full acceleration. At higher speed getting into full boost at high revs more slowly I don't seem to have the issue much if at all.

    What you say about current full face clutch offerings versus those in the past I think is true. Single full face discs on the higher torque holding end have improved. However even given today's selection of singles I still think there are inherent limitations in a single disc/puck setup that can only be solved by going with a multi-disc clutch.

    I could get a puck type clutch with probably more clamping force than I currently have but I've read that is not advised due to the possibility of crankwalk resulting from all the pressure. Also I do prefer to stay with full face discs. I spoke to an OS Giken USA rep on the phone yesterday and confirmed the R154 type STR2CD kit is rated for a *mere* 625 ft-lbs of torque. And the abrasive material in the STR2CD's clutch discs are a bronze infused material rather than the more common copper-organic, Kevlar or ceramic.

    I was initially asking the rep about their GTS2CD twin disc kit for R154's which have their "floating disc" mechanism that is supposed to reduce the rattling/chatter that multi-disc clutches have when the pedal is pressed in but it was explained to me that while those kits can hold the power numbers they are rated for they are really only intended for "gentlemen drivers" in the Japanese market who basically don't push their built vehicles except maybe on the dyno just to record the wheel horsepower and torque output. Apparently the GTS2CD is not intended for much spirited or hard driving, just perhaps controlled dyno pulls.

    So very close to what you discovered yourself, black89t, he recommended me the STR2CD which is almost exactly like your TR2CD kit except that it has a slightly softer pressure plate.

    I've read that it's not good to regularly push a clutch kit beyond 80% of its maximum rated torque holding for maximum potential longevity (assuming it was broken in correctly after installation) which would mean that my 400 ft-lb rated SB at only 80% capacity would be more like 320 ft-lbs of safe longevity window (even though SB does underrate the capacity of their clutch kits a bit just as OS Giken does).

    And I know the stock 2JZ-GTE's 315 ft-lbs of torque was underrated a bit just like it's official horsepower number. And there aren't many single disc traditional clutch kits out there that are known to be both easy on the pressure applied to the 2JZ crank and rated much higher than 450-500 ft-lbs maximum. I know that higher rated R154 single disc/puck clutch kits exist but I'm cautious about how they might affect my 2JZ's rear crank thrust bearings even with the neutral safety switch disabled for no-clutch starts.

    All reasons why at this point I'm now going in the direction of an OS Giken twin disc clutch with the movement alteration mechanism. It may be getting into an overkill torque rating for a stock engine but that just means I'd be under-stressing the OSG clutch quite a bit which can only be good for its service life between rebuilds. And most people seem to say they are pretty easy to drive and slip a bit once they're broken in.

    Plus, with a torque holding number in the 625tq range that should be plenty of room for BPU output should I ever want that.

    I mean, you're still happy with your TR2CD in your MKIII, aren't you? I've heard nothing but good things about the OS Giken clutches not only for the MKIII, MKIV, Soarer and Chasers but with many other makes as well.
    Last edited by CinePhile; 05-14-2019 at 01:35 AM.

  9. #32
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    My twin isn't installed yet, what was first a clutch job turned into an engine refresh... Then chassis swap.... LOL. I'm sending the chassis to paint this week and should be reassembling the engine as well. changed everything on the engine externally. New pump, alt, starter, timing belt seals... Upgraded twins...

    SO...... yeah.


    ^^^^ stock twins on my 2jz was also getting 325 FT tq at 1500-1800 RPM I wasn't slipping on a single disc, but when the second twin came on... Couldn't hold with my stock PP and 6 puck fermaic disc. I have a single disc with upgraded PP and 6 puck ceramic disc that I was originally going to use, but I've broken straps far too many times and did not want to go back into the transmission for a long time. This is why I just said F it and bought the OSG.

    I was told the same thing by the rep at OSG, and the more I think about it the more I think he's full of fucking shit and just wants to move product he has in stock. He's just a reseller of OSG japan, nothing more. Making a quick buck... I bought mine from RHDJapan because even after shipping and retail it was STILL cheaper than OSG usa with vendors over here. If you really want a twin disc and you are NOT in a rush I'm developing a twin disc very similar to OSG that will cost about the same as a single when you add the cost of a flywheel in. I'm looking for a test mule.

    I believe the OSG green covers are very much just as good if not better than the regular ones it's just that OSG USA brought in stock and needs to unload it, I think I may have made a mistake based on this dipshits response at OSG... They all look like they use the same disc material, and in fact, they all use the same pressure which is around 1500 for 1 pressure plate and 3000 lbs for "hard". I didn't know that green had a floating design.

    Or you can buy my single 2600 LB PP and 6 puck cermaic (very similar to ACT) for 550 with flywheel (all brand new)
    Last edited by ZaZZn; 05-15-2019 at 01:19 AM.

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