I wanted to get a photo of the front and rear together.
I wanted to get a photo of the front and rear together.
1990 Grand National Black Hardtop - Methanol powered 7M | SP61 | AEM EMS | JE | Eagle | OS valves | Tial WG | HPF Intercooler | KSracing FFIM | 272 BC cams | HKS Stopper HG | Spec 3 Clutch | Fluidyne Rad | 3" Blitz Nur-Spec Exhaust | 680cc Injs | -8AN Custom Fuel | Dual Fuel pumps | Stance Coilovers| | AVC-R| AEM Wideband | Sway Bars | Slotted/Drilled Rotors | Axxis MM Pads | Pioneer 6.5" CD/GPS/DVD | 5.25" Infinityx4 | Volk GTC 18"X9" and 18"x10" | Bomex lip | Kaminari sides | 2 Tone Leather | MC modded R154 | NSX headlights
Just bought another set after my first set was lost with USPS.
$136.00 - Boom! Time for winter upgrade.
Prices are going up on these. I paid $110 shipped and others before me have paid less than $100.
yeah i got mine when the thread was first posted on sm for like 76 shipped i think it was. what pads did you go with and how do you like them? i have porterfield rs4 on mine and they stop awesome even when hot but they DUMP dust like crazy. also squeak often at low speeds like when coming to a stop under 10mph. was thinking of getting a set to swap in when not racing....
89 supra turbo 2jz na-t, hx35 @20psi 476whp/473wtq
now s364.5 661whp/609wtq @28psi
90 toyota pickup with 7mgte/r154 totaled :(
great write up i have to say. Now i know the rear setup up has been out there for a long time now but the Benz setup where did you hear about the benz setup did you come up with it on your own or just what you have seen only. how do you like the stopping on this setup?
survyor2 - How is the MB Brakes treating you so far from Stock? I'm not looking to do any road racing and etc, just need something that will stop me from boost pulls here and there and an upgrade from Stock.
I just found this and it's an interesting read, relating to your guys' debate:
You guys should be able to calc. the front to rear bias with the set-up now. Also makes it sound like the kit sethron71 is selling for the ls400 caliper 4 pot would be worth the extra cost. (much larger size in general 18" req.?)
Well this is the big thingMoving to bigger brakes isnt so much for having "Stronger" brakes. Its not even really for having more braking force or less pedal effort. Bigger brakes can handle more heat for longer periods of time because the pads/rotors are larger and have more material to dissipate the heat.Originally Posted by Link In Previous Post
A 2 or 4 piston caliper is more desirable then a single piston because it will apply a more even pressure to the pad witch results in more consistent braking over a long period of time.
Single piston calipers concentrate all the force on the center of the pad. This can warp the pad or cause inconsistent contact or pressure across the surface of both the pad and rotor.
The stock brakes can easily lock up the tires at virtually any speed. But take your car up to 100 or so MPH and slow it down in a hurry once or twice with the stock brakes and it should be more then enough to inspire a loss in confidence in the stock rotors.
Brakes convert kinetic energy of the vehicles motion into heat. The heavier and faster the vehicle moves, the more kinetic energy it is carrying.
(Weight X Speed^2)/2 is the formula for kinetic energy.
In order to bring the 3600lb (1633KG) vehicle from 100MPH (44.7Meters/Sec) to 0Mph, 1,631,732 Joules of energy needs to be dissipated. Its dissipated in the form of heat. Joules converts to Watts (heat) using a time period.
The air hitting the front of the car dissipates some, friction in the wheel bearings and drivetrain dissipates some, but the remaining 99% is dissipated by the brake pads and rotors.
The quicker your speed is brought from 100 to 0, the quicker that energy needs to be dissipated resulting in more heat. So if you take a minute to slow down from 100MPH, 1,631,732 joules of energy over 60 seconds is equlvelant to 27,195.5 Watts of heat. If you quickly slow down in 10 seconds, that same energy results in 163,173.2 Watts of heat.
The stock rotors that are thin and small can only handle so much heat before distorting giving the "shimmy" in the steering wheel. Thicker, larger diameter rotors provide more material for the heat to be dissipated by.
I posted a comparison of size between the stock rotors and Cobra rotors in my build thread here. Its a pretty impressive difference.
At least this is the reason i upgraded. The stock brakes actually stopped the car just fine, they just felt like shit doing it.
Anyone with the MB brakes have SS lines connected to the MB brakes or Stock lines?
Also hear the 1986 Corolla GTS Brake Lines works really well with the MB brakes, can anyone confirm?
Last edited by Fonz87; 12-07-2015 at 07:44 AM.
Anyone ever find alternatives to the Evo rear calipers? They are hard to find.
88 Turbo, Burgandy
Shiny makes you faster!
Found a set of Evo calipers, thanks.
I was reading a bit on the front upgrade, and it looks like Stoptech makes a MB upgrade 355mm BBK (Part number 83-563-4700-51) that fits S350 and S65 AMG (2006), S430 and S500 (2000-06), S500 Guard (2000-01), S55 AMG (2001-02, 2004-06), S55 AMG Kompressor (2003), S600 (2001-06).
Last edited by Enraged; 06-17-2016 at 01:57 PM.
subbd for rear brakes
012 R-Class 5 x 112mm High Positive Offse
How did you guys use these on our cars? we are 114.3
The holes for the lug studs are larger diameter than the Toyota studs. The extra clearance allows the rotors to slip over the existing studs, without changing the bolt pattern.
1989 Turbo 5-speed (project car)
So I bought the exact parts in the thread, I had to do some grinding on the calipers just to get them to go over the rotor, now they are in as far as it will go and the caliper doesn't line up and bolt on... anyone ran into this??