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Need help on fender replacement

735 views 11 replies 1 participant last post by  ScoobyBoost  
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#1 ·
Hey guys!

I am trying to replace the driver's side front fender on my 87T. Do I need to remove the bumper cover and/or the header panel to get this off?

I have everything unbolted, but it apears to be attached to the header still and I can't figure out where.

Also does anyone know of or have a site with tips and procedures for removing Supra body parts? I have a TSRM but it looks like there is a seperate manual for the body work cause it's not in there.

Any help or advice you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated!

ScoobyBoost
87T
 
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#3 ·
On my 88T, I believe there was a black silicone, or some other substance, between the fender and the frame.

I had to cut this with a knife, before being able to remove the fender.

And I don't have a good source for body work either on the MKIII. There must be a separate manual for that (as you stated).

Best Luck........Sdude.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks guys!

Turbotoy had it right. I located the two studs and got the nuts off. It was a slight PITA though. They were up in the support frame on the inside of the fender.

Oh yeah and there is some silicone stuff between the frame and the fender, but I didn't have any problems seperating the two.

Yeah there is a seperate manual for the body stuff. After this I am thinking it might not be a bad investment. I was surprised to find there is very little on the 'net in the way of information resources for doing body work on the Supra.

ScoobyBoost
87T
 
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#6 ·
turbotoy said:
If you need any more help in the future just let me know - I have had every last little piece apart and back together a few times on mine from the A-Pillar forward.
I'll take you up on it, since you didn't specify who "you" is :).

How do you remove the plastic piece, right in front of the headlights? It's the part that has the headlight squirters on it, and above the turn signal lights.

My headlight squirter hose fell off, and I didn't want to wreck the part, trying to get at it.

Keep in mind that my car is from Canada (snow+salt), so if I get one bolt out of ten out, without breaking it (due to rust) it's a good day.

Thank you..........Sdude.
 
#7 ·
Sdude - Pullying off the upper lip will likely get real ugly on your car (I'm from upstate NY, so I know about it more than enough on my other vehicle). You will have to pull the nuts off (unfortunatly if you break these off, it's going to be a PITA to get a decent fix going), just like ScoobyBoost had to, then there are 3 brackets each containing 2 bolts, one bracket in the center, and the other two are part of the headlight mounting brackets. If you pull the grill and turn signal assemblies I believe you will be able to get to them without pulling the bumper. I'm not quite sure because I've never had to do it with the car all assembled. This pic may help - http://www.rpi.edu/~ruppej/P2090005_small.JPG
 
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#9 ·
Hey Thanks for the offer! I'll take you up on it... :)

After I got my new panel on I realized why it was so tough to get that off. That section of the fender was mostly crushed in. With the new panel I had all kinds of room to put those nuts back on.

I actually have a new problem now though. The headlight is rubbing pretty hard against the side of the hood when it flips up. This suggests some more serious damage than I initially thought. However I am wondering if either the headlight or the hood is adjustable to the side? Also, the RTR fuse just started popping last night whenever I turn on the headlights, and the headlight with no rubbing will not flip up now. WTF!?!? Any ideas what might be going on here?
 
#10 ·
Ok, first get your hood allignment correct - this means the gap from the fender to the hood is correct and even, and the hood ends where it should. The hoods on a MKIII are a PITA to adjust because they use conical bolts to locate the hood to the hinge. After you have the hood alligned correctly work on the headlight. You will probably either have to straighten the supports, add shims, or enlarge mounting holes to get the gap perfect. The headlights are the hardest body panel to allign on the car IMO - but take your time and you will get it.

My guess is the fuse is blowing due to excess current from the headlight housing rubbing - fix that first and see if the fuse blowing problem still exists.
 
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#12 ·
Well I got the headlight panel and hood aligned a little better. However I confirmed there is a short somewhere. Even with the hood raised the lights will not flip up. Also whenever I put in a new RTR fuse there is a buzzing/screeching sound that starts coming from behind the dash/kick panel area on the driver's side. I think I should start a new thread about this one.

BTW thanks for the advice on the hood alignment. You're right it WAS a PITA. I still don't think it's quite right, but it's much better.

ScoobyBoost
87T