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NA-T project starting - some major questions

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#26 ·
The MAP-ECU is solely a fuel controller. The ECU2 controls timing and has a few other neat options:

* Launch Control (2-step Rev Limiter)
* Fuel Cut Defender (a.k.a. Boost Cut Controller)
* Speed Cut Defender
* Speed Adjust
* Nitrous Control
* RPM Switch
* Pressure Switch

Per the ECU's title, the unit has a built in MAP sensor, so there's no need to drill/tap somewhere else. MVP makes patch harnesses for them so you don't have to worry about splicing into your harness. Just plug it in and start playing.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
There is a decision about electronics and it will be a new way for everybody . Here in poland we have a developer who manufactures his own car electronics, maybe you heard, its called ECU Master.
At the begining of the holiday, he is going to produce his first standalone and we decided to test it on supra. If it wont be ok, ECU Master DETIII (piggyback) will do the work.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Ok guys - another day of work done to the car and tons of questions.
First of all - the exhaust manifold is almost done, looks beautiful, really top work - I will post pics later...
Today another package arrived and after few minutes of cleaning...

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Now, the big portion of pics with questions:

1) At the bottom of my new FFIM there is something like that, any ideas what is it for and what should be connected here? Maybe its for the EGR and now should be capped of?

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2) These are vacuum outputs from FFIM and line from brake booster - do I need to connected it somehow to the manifold?

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3) What the hell is that thing? It was right under the oem intake manifold. One connector was connected to it, like in the picture, and another one (right upper corner) was connected to the manifold. Are those the elements of the EGR system?

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4) What are those for? EGR to?

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If these are the parts of the EGR system - what do I have to do with them. All of the DIY show that I have to install block of plates, install resistor to the main sensor (one below?) and I can delete all the hoses, but non of it say about any other connectors..?

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5) I have deleted cruise control unit and there is connector left, do I have to do anything with it?

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6) Below you can see a place where charcoal canister used to sit. There is a line that goes thru the fender and it should be the line from the tank... one line I have deleted... but you can see a third line and it goes under the engine and than under the car - what is it? DYI says that I can delete 2 lines that goes to the canister from side and leave the one below that goes to the tank.

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And now, something special - exhaust manifold almost done :D

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#32 ·
IMO the hx35 is way too small for a 3.0. I had the highest flowing cfm hx35 (ie 7 blade) on my 2.4 liter and it spooled 18psi by 3500.. Id go with the hx40 with a t4 backside. This also gives you the room to choose a different t4 if you decide to go bigger in the future. There's no doubt it my mind that the 2j will spool an hx40 before 3500, and probably more like 3k. And to be honest, trying to get spool earlier than that is pointless. The motor wouldnt make any significant power before then anyways, not to mention 3-7500 is a meaty ass powerband. Definately go with some sort of standalone off the batt. Piggybacks are garbage. If there's one thing not to skimp on, its the management. You can cut corners with shit wastegates, bov, piping, intercooler etc. But dont skimp on the one thing that saves your motor.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Ok...
To sum up some things:

Here is my NA ICV and flange in manifold. Im going to reweld the flange to make it fit ok. But now, technical question - I just mount it there, fit a small KN filter on it, connect it and thats all...? How the hell is it working?

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This is NA TPS vs Q45 TPS. Im trying to somehow mount my NA TPS to the Q45 throttle body coz I think it will couse less problems, am I right?
Or maybe I have to somehow connect Nissan TPS... ?
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kriss_pl
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